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Impressions: newGT48XLSi
#1
M
motoman
M
motoman
Bad hip just when ole dyt4000 lost a cylinder. I cannot presently t-shoot to see if more life is in it so I bought a new Husqy. Although I wanted Kaw I settled on....drum roll ....ANOTHER INTEK????? Yep . I have ranted about this engine and yet after 5 yrs on the forum people (and the dealer)have convinced me that Kaw has problems too. This one is the "endurance" which seems to mean chrome valve stems and a presumably better air filter. But looks the same mostly. So now I am fretting about getting an oil cooler on it asap , oil pressure gauge, and oil temp gauge.
Today I mowed. I like the variable go pedal, but do not like the fail safe procedure for trying to back up with blades on. The seat is back too far and when I looked beneath there are three places for slider slot clamping via cap screws and big washers. Only one is present. The rear slanted hitch plate was punched and the bottom edge is sharp enough to shave with. The oil drain plug has been carefully blocked with a plastic grill making it impossible to drain the oil. The grill looks like it is plastic riveted on so it cannot be removed. WTF? The fabricated deck is awesome looking , but I never had a problem for 12 years with the Craftsman formed one. The smart key seems to work ok now, but I wonder long run? I got the K 66 with locking diff , but have not used it. More later. Please correct me if I am wrong, 2 hours so far. Just remembered to mention an initial impression of the battery hold downs. Plastic "ears" with no cross over clamping, just the edges of the bat ,which will not provide a corrosion path, but which seem very anemic. We'll see.
Today I mowed. I like the variable go pedal, but do not like the fail safe procedure for trying to back up with blades on. The seat is back too far and when I looked beneath there are three places for slider slot clamping via cap screws and big washers. Only one is present. The rear slanted hitch plate was punched and the bottom edge is sharp enough to shave with. The oil drain plug has been carefully blocked with a plastic grill making it impossible to drain the oil. The grill looks like it is plastic riveted on so it cannot be removed. WTF? The fabricated deck is awesome looking , but I never had a problem for 12 years with the Craftsman formed one. The smart key seems to work ok now, but I wonder long run? I got the K 66 with locking diff , but have not used it. More later. Please correct me if I am wrong, 2 hours so far. Just remembered to mention an initial impression of the battery hold downs. Plastic "ears" with no cross over clamping, just the edges of the bat ,which will not provide a corrosion path, but which seem very anemic. We'll see.
#3
M
motoman
M
motoman
Continuing...Apology to Husqy. The seat "should" only have one bolt/washer underneath per manual AND the seat has an adjustment lever on the left side. My bad and glad I found it. I believe this garden tractor is a couple hundred pound heavier than my dyt 4000 and now that I have driven it around it is less snappy due to the same rated Intek. I have learned that for reverse to continue cutting there is a smart button entry to allow it. So far the smart ignition button has worked out and may be worthwhile if it holds up. The arm rests are not so useful to me, but may be to someone mowing a large area. There is a cruise control I have not tried yet. Something about the deck construction causes an irritating "drone" with blades engaged which comes through the ear guards I am using. I hope others can report it is just me or that I can try some different ear protection and change it. After my last 2 hour mow I was not real happy with that noise. The chassis my be a little longer than the Crafstman dyt 4000 as there seems to be better clearance around the back of the Intek (ignoring the perforated plastic shield I mentioned which inhibits oil change on the right side ). The potential is there for a fan based oil cooler which I am considering. But first I will put removability into the right side shield for oil change and to install an oil temp gauge as I have done on the dyt 4000. Once operable, and if I see typical (to me) 280F-300F oil temp I will install an oil cooler/gauge and fan. I see there are some cheap thermostats now available and may consider them because in winter I must drive a lot to bring dyt 4000 engine up to 180+F. I have accidentally engaged the K66 locker button and heard an impressive engagement related sound , solenoid actuation of lever (s)?, but have not studied the tranny up close, nor tried the locker. Although I have not studied it up close it looks like Briggs revised the cooling air shielding on the engine compared with my old Intek. . And... as someone said, the gas gauge is hard to read due to the opaque mostly and you must look down between legs to see it. More as it is fit to print :laughing:
#5
M
motoman
M
motoman
Forgot earlier to mention that the owners manual it came with is sorely lacking IMO. It does not have the detail, nor cover the topics which the dyt4000 does. I found a download online which is prompted by the Husqy materials included, but I am still not too impressed. I looked further to get detail on the "Endurance" model of Intek which apparently fits between the base engine on the dyt4000 and the "Elite," but the "manual" from Briggs included in my packet is very disappointing. It promises a lot on the cover, showing 3 model series :400000.440000, and 49000 all three known as Professional series. The GT48XLSi (mine) apparently has the middle grade engine discerned from a label on the engine. When you open the "manual" there are interesting pictures of the engines with no nomenclature and item bubble numbers promising a list ,,, but no list. These pictures show an external oil cooler bolted to the driver's side of the fan shroud. Without detail one cannot tell if some fan air is being forced through the shroud to the oil cooler. I think not as I have seen several pictures of Kohler oil coolers which never show a fan. So are they reducing oil temp by 40F in relatively still air? This default and pathetic attempt to include useful material for the owner is baffling and shortsighted IMO. Among the three engines specs is a slight change in bore stroke on the top model-more oversquare.
I am looking for a separate manual for this Intek, but all I see is the one I already have. One more item. I passed on a battery float charger at the Husqy dealer as I had just bought a Schumaker. The Husqy dash has a neat 2 pin female connector with a cover. I am wondering if I should price it out. In the owner's manual they say disconnect bat ground before charging. An additional step perhaps not necessay. The deck has a hose connection which the dealer says works well-not tried. The dealer also commented that the grass baggers are not favored due to pickup clogging problems which seemed odd since most owners know damp and wet grass will clog the most chutes? I will see if I can adapt the Craftsman 3 bag system to this tractor by some welding and maybe a formed fiberglass adaptor fitting the Husqy deck and the Craftsman tube. More if worthwhile. Correct and help me as necessary.
I am looking for a separate manual for this Intek, but all I see is the one I already have. One more item. I passed on a battery float charger at the Husqy dealer as I had just bought a Schumaker. The Husqy dash has a neat 2 pin female connector with a cover. I am wondering if I should price it out. In the owner's manual they say disconnect bat ground before charging. An additional step perhaps not necessay. The deck has a hose connection which the dealer says works well-not tried. The dealer also commented that the grass baggers are not favored due to pickup clogging problems which seemed odd since most owners know damp and wet grass will clog the most chutes? I will see if I can adapt the Craftsman 3 bag system to this tractor by some welding and maybe a formed fiberglass adaptor fitting the Husqy deck and the Craftsman tube. More if worthwhile. Correct and help me as necessary.
#6
M
motoman
M
motoman
The dash mounted battery connector has a live cursor blinking. The smart switch provides battery condition at startup if you want via red yellow green leds . Dustcap covers two male pin contacts (correction to earlier) which are odd ball to me as I tried to find a mating female in my grab bad and could not. The connector seems to be a "CTEK" which is a brand name and the name of the float charger sold for this tractor, around $60 online. I am trying to adapt my Schumaker float charger to those pins, Otherwise just the common clamp connectors to the battery.
#7
M
motoman
M
motoman
Daughter helping haul cut weeds . At start we noticed the smart key bat led was blinking half charge so we decided to run the tractor with no shut off to charge. It worked except she ran out of gas. I had noticed a reserve gas valve under the seat (but I missed this if it was in the manual). Expecting a stiff action I was pleased to turn it easily and within one extra jab on the smart key the reserve gas was flowing. Very cool.
#9
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
If you use the deck washout it is essential that after the water is turned off you drive over a dry hard surface and leave the deck running about 10 minutes to dry off.
Otherwise you will end up replacing a lot more spindles & bearings that you would like to do.
Just like the Craftsman, the deck needs to be kept clean on the top so the vents around the spindles can work and for this you really need a blower as loose cut grass does not wash off.
I use an air duster with a 4' long nozel so I can get under the pulley guards and into the frame rails without standing on my head ( way too old for that ) or eating grass ( got cows to do that ).
Not a big fan of worry gauges but if you feel more confident with them installed then go ahead it is your mower after all so kit it out as you like.
Try to avoid fitting anything to the cowel that makes it harder to remove as removing it regularly and blowing clean the cooling fins is one of the easiest and most beneficial maintenance jobs you can do.
Using the long air duster to blow dust out from under the flywheel does the alternator a power of good as well.
Otherwise you will end up replacing a lot more spindles & bearings that you would like to do.
Just like the Craftsman, the deck needs to be kept clean on the top so the vents around the spindles can work and for this you really need a blower as loose cut grass does not wash off.
I use an air duster with a 4' long nozel so I can get under the pulley guards and into the frame rails without standing on my head ( way too old for that ) or eating grass ( got cows to do that ).
Not a big fan of worry gauges but if you feel more confident with them installed then go ahead it is your mower after all so kit it out as you like.
Try to avoid fitting anything to the cowel that makes it harder to remove as removing it regularly and blowing clean the cooling fins is one of the easiest and most beneficial maintenance jobs you can do.
Using the long air duster to blow dust out from under the flywheel does the alternator a power of good as well.
#10
M
motoman
M
motoman
Bert, Yes I am leery of the hose cleanout also as I have run over mostly damp to wet grass for 12 years with my lowly stamped deck on the dyt 4000 with no spindle changeout or perforation. I do, however, sharpen about 3 times summer and end up chiseling adobe coating from the deck (mud and dried weeds/grass) . The load I typically get from that excercise is about 5-6 flat shovel-fulls. I feel that has retarded rust and allowed the deck to dry . Re gauges...I understand how pros who constantly repair needless damage of clients' machines develop a kind of cynicism (maybe for all mowers). But for the odd ball minority gauges can prolong life of the big box machines. motoman
Edit. I have an air compressor and an H Frt quick attach "wand" of about 2 feet with trigger which I clean up the tractor with after every mow. You can reach into the chute opening and the diffused 100 psi will detach the thatch also if moist enough. I always direct the air accross the front of the intek carburettor and the pointy tip allows blast into little openings in the air shrouding, as well as cleaning up the weeping oil points for closer inspection. When done there is a big ring of debris and grass around the tractor. I have read others do this too. From the volume of grass and weed clippiings I dislodge around the deck pulleys it would seem these masses could end up stretching or damaging the drive belts if not removed.
Edit. I have an air compressor and an H Frt quick attach "wand" of about 2 feet with trigger which I clean up the tractor with after every mow. You can reach into the chute opening and the diffused 100 psi will detach the thatch also if moist enough. I always direct the air accross the front of the intek carburettor and the pointy tip allows blast into little openings in the air shrouding, as well as cleaning up the weeping oil points for closer inspection. When done there is a big ring of debris and grass around the tractor. I have read others do this too. From the volume of grass and weed clippiings I dislodge around the deck pulleys it would seem these masses could end up stretching or damaging the drive belts if not removed.
#11
M
motoman
M
motoman
Two more hours mowing today. The seat bracket is chintzy . While the seat unit is ok the main hinge bracket flexes like a tin can lid when raising seat. Also I am still bothered by the one bolt hold down of the seat to its frame. Nothing has broken or loosened, but I can not help noting the contrast between the seat bracket and the deck with its Humvee armor plate and electric weld seams. Guess like cars the bean counters had to attack somewhere,
I had accidentally engaged the diff locker and was lamenting the poor turning radius and the tendency for the tractor to understeer (wheels turned , but goes straight) and diminished radius turning. This went away when the dash locker switch was turned off. I did not tear up any grass , BTW, as some have reported, with the diff locked. Probably cause I was going really slow with my healing hip. I did use the locker once purposely when tractor drive wheel fell into a wet rut. Turned on the dash switch and two light jabs of go pedal had me out in a jiffy...VERY SWEET ...and what I was hoping for after 12 years of slipping and sometimes having to shovel out.
I mentioned the nice little dash flush float bat charger connector and the dedicated Husqy-sold CTEK ( I think) , but I had committed to a Schumaker float charger (Walmart} which I like. It came with a nice little pigtail jumper harness with battery bolt- sized eyelets so I put that on and can now more easily charge the beast.
Edit: The air cleaner is a "sock" type with a round pleated paper body bonded to a black flexible "neck." After years of catering to the old Intek paper/sponge flat inserts and a very long rubber perimeter seal (rectangle) which just barely worked I checked the Husqy air filter before mowing. The lid has the same two captive pinch and turn screws, but that lid just covers the sock. The sock's rubber neck is pulled off and pushed on to a spout. I don't like the feel of the installed neck on spout. It did not come with a clamp, but I will put one on. The fact that you can pull it off bothers me (tight seal?). I did not see any dust tracks from the first mows, but I want a seal. Perhaps Intek (or Husqy?) was afraid users would complain of "bonding" which might require extra effort or even cutting the neck to remove (like a radiator hose). I will risk it. A clamp goes on. Credit due to the attempt to improve installation.I wonder about filter life under dusty weed duty as I used to clean the foam insert after even one mow. Better buy about 6 of the socks. The filter does go on in about 1/10 the time.
I had accidentally engaged the diff locker and was lamenting the poor turning radius and the tendency for the tractor to understeer (wheels turned , but goes straight) and diminished radius turning. This went away when the dash locker switch was turned off. I did not tear up any grass , BTW, as some have reported, with the diff locked. Probably cause I was going really slow with my healing hip. I did use the locker once purposely when tractor drive wheel fell into a wet rut. Turned on the dash switch and two light jabs of go pedal had me out in a jiffy...VERY SWEET ...and what I was hoping for after 12 years of slipping and sometimes having to shovel out.
I mentioned the nice little dash flush float bat charger connector and the dedicated Husqy-sold CTEK ( I think) , but I had committed to a Schumaker float charger (Walmart} which I like. It came with a nice little pigtail jumper harness with battery bolt- sized eyelets so I put that on and can now more easily charge the beast.
Edit: The air cleaner is a "sock" type with a round pleated paper body bonded to a black flexible "neck." After years of catering to the old Intek paper/sponge flat inserts and a very long rubber perimeter seal (rectangle) which just barely worked I checked the Husqy air filter before mowing. The lid has the same two captive pinch and turn screws, but that lid just covers the sock. The sock's rubber neck is pulled off and pushed on to a spout. I don't like the feel of the installed neck on spout. It did not come with a clamp, but I will put one on. The fact that you can pull it off bothers me (tight seal?). I did not see any dust tracks from the first mows, but I want a seal. Perhaps Intek (or Husqy?) was afraid users would complain of "bonding" which might require extra effort or even cutting the neck to remove (like a radiator hose). I will risk it. A clamp goes on. Credit due to the attempt to improve installation.I wonder about filter life under dusty weed duty as I used to clean the foam insert after even one mow. Better buy about 6 of the socks. The filter does go on in about 1/10 the time.
#12
B
Bicklebok
B
Bicklebok
Thank you for the update. That locker feature sounds like a handy feature that would come in handy.
Glad you discoverd the shulmer charger. You can buy extra pigtails on amazon and install them on other equipment too. Thats what i did.
Glad you discoverd the shulmer charger. You can buy extra pigtails on amazon and install them on other equipment too. Thats what i did.
#14
B
bertsmobile1
Could overheat the belt however will catch alight.
Next to restarting a mower with fuel splashed around everywhere or refuling a running mower, excessive grass build up on the deck starts a lot of fires and is real hard to put out under the pulley covers.
Next problem is the wet grass is quite acid and attacks any bare metal, promoting wear . Once you get a scratch in the powder coating wet grass will lift the paint in no time flat and eat through the deck.
So yes blow it off.
Blowing off the underside of the deck and keeping it clean will aid the airflow under the deck and yield a better cut.
A pair of flat topped ramps to run the front up will give you a nice height to get the air duster under the deck particularly if you can find a longer one.
I got a 4' one from a truck supply shop, bought a case of them and flog them to my customers.
B
bertsmobile1
Bert, Yes I am leery of the hose cleanout also as I have run over mostly damp to wet grass for 12 years with my lowly stamped deck on the dyt 4000 with no spindle changeout or perforation. I do, however, sharpen about 3 times summer and end up chiseling adobe coating from the deck (mud and dried weeds/grass) . The load I typically get from that excercise is about 5-6 flat shovel-fulls. I feel that has retarded rust and allowed the deck to dry . Re gauges...I understand how pros who constantly repair needless damage of clients' machines develop a kind of cynicism (maybe for all mowers). But for the odd ball minority gauges can prolong life of the big box machines. motoman
Edit. I have an air compressor and an H Frt quick attach "wand" of about 2 feet with trigger which I clean up the tractor with after every mow. You can reach into the chute opening and the diffused 100 psi will detach the thatch also if moist enough. I always direct the air accross the front of the intek carburettor and the pointy tip allows blast into little openings in the air shrouding, as well as cleaning up the weeping oil points for closer inspection. When done there is a big ring of debris and grass around the tractor. I have read others do this too. From the volume of grass and weed clippiings I dislodge around the deck pulleys it would seem these masses could end up stretching or damaging the drive belts if not removed.
Could overheat the belt however will catch alight.
Next to restarting a mower with fuel splashed around everywhere or refuling a running mower, excessive grass build up on the deck starts a lot of fires and is real hard to put out under the pulley covers.
Next problem is the wet grass is quite acid and attacks any bare metal, promoting wear . Once you get a scratch in the powder coating wet grass will lift the paint in no time flat and eat through the deck.
So yes blow it off.
Blowing off the underside of the deck and keeping it clean will aid the airflow under the deck and yield a better cut.
A pair of flat topped ramps to run the front up will give you a nice height to get the air duster under the deck particularly if you can find a longer one.
I got a 4' one from a truck supply shop, bought a case of them and flog them to my customers.
#15
M
motoman
M
motoman
Another hour mowing , and getting adjusted to this mower. At first I was pressing the go pedal too hard making drag race starts, some of which removed skin from forehead as I plowed through low hanging , scraggly branches of my fruit trees. I have learned that the pedal is calibrated very well...press lightly and go slowly, press hard and (almost) do wheelie. Also this pedal has excellent braking feature when letting off the machine stops without application of the brake. The reverse pedal is very small and relatively difficult to engage. It seems Husqy has gone to great pains to inhibit accidental backup with this action AND the smart button flashing red. OK, I guess, it it saves a terrible accident, but kind of a pain compared with my old Craftsman.
In case you had read my earlier comment about the sharp, shave- ready edge of the hitch plate...Husqy (unwittingly I'm sure) has built in a second razor blade edge on the rearward seat plate. I can still see the engineering boiler plate statement on all mechanical drawings..."break, remove all sharp edges..." This oversight is not major, but clearly shows a painter ( or coater) somewhere hanging and painting parts with his bandaged hands without a word to the (missing?) quality dude. Doubtful this would happen in Japan, Yes, these edges can be removed with several file strokes by the consumer, but why should that be?
EDIT; The oil level has stayed up since new. On the stick it looks like 30W. I guess this shows good ring seating. (I know they did not pour Bon Ami into the engine to achieve this).
The droning still bothers me ,, a kind of whum, whum , whum, instead of an audible constant whir I am used to on the Craftsman.
Please note I am pretty happy with the new machine.
In case you had read my earlier comment about the sharp, shave- ready edge of the hitch plate...Husqy (unwittingly I'm sure) has built in a second razor blade edge on the rearward seat plate. I can still see the engineering boiler plate statement on all mechanical drawings..."break, remove all sharp edges..." This oversight is not major, but clearly shows a painter ( or coater) somewhere hanging and painting parts with his bandaged hands without a word to the (missing?) quality dude. Doubtful this would happen in Japan, Yes, these edges can be removed with several file strokes by the consumer, but why should that be?
EDIT; The oil level has stayed up since new. On the stick it looks like 30W. I guess this shows good ring seating. (I know they did not pour Bon Ami into the engine to achieve this).
The droning still bothers me ,, a kind of whum, whum , whum, instead of an audible constant whir I am used to on the Craftsman.
Please note I am pretty happy with the new machine.
#16
B
Bicklebok
B
Bicklebok
Glad youre enjoying it. Im still gettimg used to a Hisqvarna PZT48 I bought used a few weeks ago. Just put new blades on it and it is exceeding my expectations!
#18
M
motoman
M
motoman
Got off my backsides and downloaded the operators and parts manuals, over 60 pp. Learned a couple things. (Why wasn't the manual, at least, included with the new purchase?)
I beefed earlier about the oil plug and drainage being blocked. The manual shows that what I called a grill they call a "dash cover," and what seemed like plastic rivets are sliding ?buttons" which allow the covers to be removed We'll see. Noticed the parts manual shows a cross over bracket holding the battery down. And puzzling is the exploded pic of the K 66 trans with what looks like a fillable tank. Is that an expansion tank? The text in the manual says no service possible, sealed at factory. There is a schematic of the same zerks I have on the dyt 4000 with no instruction on the bolt- on deck covers.nor intervals.
I beefed earlier about the oil plug and drainage being blocked. The manual shows that what I called a grill they call a "dash cover," and what seemed like plastic rivets are sliding ?buttons" which allow the covers to be removed We'll see. Noticed the parts manual shows a cross over bracket holding the battery down. And puzzling is the exploded pic of the K 66 trans with what looks like a fillable tank. Is that an expansion tank? The text in the manual says no service possible, sealed at factory. There is a schematic of the same zerks I have on the dyt 4000 with no instruction on the bolt- on deck covers.nor intervals.
#19
BlazNT
Go to manufacture web site and down load the manual. It will give the oil change times.
BlazNT
Got off my backsides and downloaded the operators and parts manuals, over 60 pp. Learned a couple things. (Why wasn't the manual, at least, included with the new purchase?)
I beefed earlier about the oil plug and drainage being blocked. The manual shows that what I called a grill they call a "dash cover," and what seemed like plastic rivets are sliding ?buttons" which allow the covers to be removed We'll see. Noticed the parts manual shows a cross over bracket holding the battery down. And puzzling is the exploded pic of the K 66 trans with what looks like a fillable tank. Is that an expansion tank? The text in the manual says no service possible, sealed at factory. There is a schematic of the same zerks I have on the dyt 4000 with no instruction on the bolt- on deck covers.nor intervals.
Go to manufacture web site and down load the manual. It will give the oil change times.
#20
M
motoman
M
motoman
Blaz, You are saying the tank is a filler spot and that Husqv is wrong about "sealed?" I do have a page from Tufftorque which shows the oil specs. Thanks
#21
M
motoman
M
motoman
OK, Went to Tuff Torque site. Got a good photo guide on the K66. Then to another section on intervals. The site generally echos the Husqv "not necessary" to change oil, but does say changing will prolong life. Only interval noted is after first 50 hrs. Also noted a nice picture of the widely used K 46 and some words about adding oil to it (must remove). 5W50 synthetic auto oil, both.
#22
M
motoman
M
motoman
Per downloaded manual the "dash cover" does come off with a hard pull. This gives access to the oil drain plug. Have not tried to remove the other side which should access the oil filter
#23
M
motoman
M
motoman
The front chassis looks same as the dyt 4000 , measured 12 gauge steel. The Husky rear hitch plate is 10 gauge. This confirms the stiffer chassis claim for so called Garden Tractors fit to drag earth engaging equipment.
My earlier talk about clamping the air filter neck was from some dream, I guess. It cannot be done. I did take another look for dust tracks getting by into the intake, but so far good. I imagine repeated removal of this rubber necked filter is not a good idea. Perhaps leave it on until you remove to replace.
A little plumbers silicone smeared on the dash cover engagement nubbins makes attachment much easier, I am doubtful about these plastic parts' life expectancy exposed to heat.
The deck pulley zerks are difficult to access , especially the middle one. They require 90 degree adapters I do not have.
Another cheap touch. The engagement release at the back has morphed from a nice galvo rod with stop (dyt 4000) to a cheap piece of bent wire. (bean counters).
Finally was able to check the K66 expansion tank oil level by standing on my head with the right rear wheel removed. Still could not see tank graduations, but there was a very low level of oil present like that shown in the TuffTorque download.
Edit: the two deck pulley covers are a pain with 4 bolts per side. I prefer the dyt 4000 semi open poly covers. Husqy must have had serious incidents or be in fear of serious incidents to have armored -up the deck like that. Over kill IMO
My earlier talk about clamping the air filter neck was from some dream, I guess. It cannot be done. I did take another look for dust tracks getting by into the intake, but so far good. I imagine repeated removal of this rubber necked filter is not a good idea. Perhaps leave it on until you remove to replace.
A little plumbers silicone smeared on the dash cover engagement nubbins makes attachment much easier, I am doubtful about these plastic parts' life expectancy exposed to heat.
The deck pulley zerks are difficult to access , especially the middle one. They require 90 degree adapters I do not have.
Another cheap touch. The engagement release at the back has morphed from a nice galvo rod with stop (dyt 4000) to a cheap piece of bent wire. (bean counters).
Finally was able to check the K66 expansion tank oil level by standing on my head with the right rear wheel removed. Still could not see tank graduations, but there was a very low level of oil present like that shown in the TuffTorque download.
Edit: the two deck pulley covers are a pain with 4 bolts per side. I prefer the dyt 4000 semi open poly covers. Husqy must have had serious incidents or be in fear of serious incidents to have armored -up the deck like that. Over kill IMO
#24
M
motoman
M
motoman
Just bumped alive ( I hope) a separate thread here about an overheating TuffTorque locking axle. Hope for response.
#25
M
motoman
M
motoman
The oil drain gizmo is the same as on the Craftsman which had never worked well, but was able to stay together for 12 years. Tried to drain the Husqy and the thing pulled apart down to the o rings under the rubber cover. About a quart of used onto the garage floor before I could recover. I wanted to put in a brass drain plug but could not get a socket over the Husqy 15/16"hex. The reason is that the bottom flat of the hex was purposely set flush with the metal frame. I could not think of why, except that perhaps some had loosened , leaked and burned up a motor, and this was a fail safe for the plug. But I was really surprised when I loosened the motor bolts temporarily to remove that plug. The plug is a thin,cast galvanize coated one with only 3 threads engaged. It was Teflon taped and not leaking, but only finger tight. Perhaps the assembler was afraid the plug would break tightening it to the next flat. It made me think of the Craftsman Intek pan bolts several of which which eventually loosened, and missed by me, sat trapped on their heads waiting to be found. Actually petty clever and not a coincidence IMO.
The Depo stepper gauge is in and weird it is before start up. It has a dark lens and does not show anything til the engine is started- like a one-eyed Cyclops in the Greek stories. Only ran for proof in garage and only to 135F. Full report to follow.
Edit, Plug is more accurately, a zinc casting and weak IMO
The Depo stepper gauge is in and weird it is before start up. It has a dark lens and does not show anything til the engine is started- like a one-eyed Cyclops in the Greek stories. Only ran for proof in garage and only to 135F. Full report to follow.
Edit, Plug is more accurately, a zinc casting and weak IMO
#26
O
Oldaarpy
O
Oldaarpy
Motoman
I bought the 52" deck version of your tractor last August. So far I love it. A set of chains and 50lbs on each of the wheels and you can't stop it. I also purchased the Husky battery tender gizmo and that also works like a charm. Do yourself a favor and buy the Husky seat cover...much more comfortable after a few hours of mowing! Wifie picked up an older style Husky seat cover on Ebay for less than $25. It's not made for seats with arm rests but if you're careful and cut bolt holes in it just big enough for the bolts the actual arm rest/seat connect plates act as clamps and it won't move or tear out. It has 'net' srorage in the back and should save the seat from damage.
When switching to posi-drive make sure you come to a complete stop before engaging or disengaging. There's a pin that moves and could easily be sheared off. I bought a snowplow (big mistake, buy the dozer blade) and the tractor was pushing 15" of heavy snow on flat terrain. My land is two acres and all hills with some better than 30 degrees and the tractor runs up and down like there's no tomorrow. No trans problems there with over-heating, and I was out mowing in 95 degree weather.
The hose cleaner sucks (don't they all) and the deck tends to clog up if it's not set up right. Make sure you grease the mandrels half way through the season, I guess you know that, as these as supposedly "heavier duty" and undoubtedly more expensive to replace. I used POR-13 on another deck with clogging problems and it helped, if you start having troubles with that issue!
This is my second Husky and that one bolt seat deal is standard...go figure. The plastic piece that comes off before you can change the oil loosens up a little the more you use it. I'm not sure why it's there.
Enjoy the new toy and hope recovery is fast......Aarpy
I bought the 52" deck version of your tractor last August. So far I love it. A set of chains and 50lbs on each of the wheels and you can't stop it. I also purchased the Husky battery tender gizmo and that also works like a charm. Do yourself a favor and buy the Husky seat cover...much more comfortable after a few hours of mowing! Wifie picked up an older style Husky seat cover on Ebay for less than $25. It's not made for seats with arm rests but if you're careful and cut bolt holes in it just big enough for the bolts the actual arm rest/seat connect plates act as clamps and it won't move or tear out. It has 'net' srorage in the back and should save the seat from damage.
When switching to posi-drive make sure you come to a complete stop before engaging or disengaging. There's a pin that moves and could easily be sheared off. I bought a snowplow (big mistake, buy the dozer blade) and the tractor was pushing 15" of heavy snow on flat terrain. My land is two acres and all hills with some better than 30 degrees and the tractor runs up and down like there's no tomorrow. No trans problems there with over-heating, and I was out mowing in 95 degree weather.
The hose cleaner sucks (don't they all) and the deck tends to clog up if it's not set up right. Make sure you grease the mandrels half way through the season, I guess you know that, as these as supposedly "heavier duty" and undoubtedly more expensive to replace. I used POR-13 on another deck with clogging problems and it helped, if you start having troubles with that issue!
This is my second Husky and that one bolt seat deal is standard...go figure. The plastic piece that comes off before you can change the oil loosens up a little the more you use it. I'm not sure why it's there.
Enjoy the new toy and hope recovery is fast......Aarpy
#27
ken_clifton
That is good on the gauge Motoman. I am looking forward to some numbers on those engine oil temps when it is doing some work!
I saw the other thread on the transmission oil temp. It made me think back to year 1 with my Scag, when I checked the hydraulic oil after 3 hours of mowing. I unscrewed the cap and smoke came out. I know it is a different application and all, but right after that I put a power steering cooler in the line.
When designers have closed systems like this with no real way for heat to dissipate is that a realistic use case? On air craft they use the term "standard day" which is at sea level, Altimeter:29.92 in/Hg at 15 °C (59 °F). Not many folks are doing most of their mowing when the temp is 59 deg F...
ken_clifton
ken_clifton
The Depo stepper gauge is in and weird it is before start up. It has a dark lens and does not show anything til the engine is started- like a one-eyed Cyclops in the Greek stories. Only ran for proof in garage and only to 135F. Full report to follow.
That is good on the gauge Motoman. I am looking forward to some numbers on those engine oil temps when it is doing some work!
I saw the other thread on the transmission oil temp. It made me think back to year 1 with my Scag, when I checked the hydraulic oil after 3 hours of mowing. I unscrewed the cap and smoke came out. I know it is a different application and all, but right after that I put a power steering cooler in the line.
When designers have closed systems like this with no real way for heat to dissipate is that a realistic use case? On air craft they use the term "standard day" which is at sea level, Altimeter:29.92 in/Hg at 15 °C (59 °F). Not many folks are doing most of their mowing when the temp is 59 deg F...
ken_clifton
#28
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motoman
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motoman
Aarpy, Thanks for the tips . I did not know about the mandrels. l guess I'll have to make a 90 deg adapter for the grease gun or buy one. The hip is ceramic. Put it off way too long. motorman Edit Your comments on snow ability very good. I have hand shoveled a long driveway for years.
Ken, I will probably mow soon . Right now in Aug heat only the dandelions keep growing. I will try also to say something about the K 66 case temp I can measure with my KE thermometer. Then , perhaps a stretch, apply the sump oil/case forumula to derive likely K66 oil temp??? motoman
Ken, I will probably mow soon . Right now in Aug heat only the dandelions keep growing. I will try also to say something about the K 66 case temp I can measure with my KE thermometer. Then , perhaps a stretch, apply the sump oil/case forumula to derive likely K66 oil temp??? motoman
#29
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motoman
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motoman
Today is over 90F and I took Husqy out to see how the new gauge works and how hot the oil got. The mowing was not really "work" as I was cutting dandelion stems and that work was really just the blades turning. Nevertheless I was pleased because this Intek DOES seem to run cooler that the dyt4000. I could not run the dyt and read its Beedee gauge to compare ,because it still only has one cylinder running.
After 10 minutes, 210F; after 30 minutes 235F and much more stable than the other Intek which would easily swing temps.I finally saw 240F but that was it . The "mowing" was in and out of tree shadows. This engine likes to run fast and temp raises about 5 degrees at idle. Pulling under shade and then lifting the cover vs closing it did not affect temps much, finally down to 229F after about 5 minutes. The old Intek with cooler would drop 50 degrees from e.g., 280F after pulling into shade with cover open ,and fan at idle in about 5-10 minutes (after hard work),
So , although, Briggs only openly says? this engine has chrome valve stems and different air cleaner , seems like some homework was performed on cooling. But this was not really a test except for the ambient temp. The dyt4000 was pretty stable this time of year with just a trailer hauling trimmings-around the same temp if I remember correctly. But its temp skyrocketed with hard work, so I will have to reserve final judgement. The Depo gauge cannot be read in bright sunlight, but the led is bright and tracks the stepper pointer well. Running 5W-30 Mobil One.
After 10 minutes, 210F; after 30 minutes 235F and much more stable than the other Intek which would easily swing temps.I finally saw 240F but that was it . The "mowing" was in and out of tree shadows. This engine likes to run fast and temp raises about 5 degrees at idle. Pulling under shade and then lifting the cover vs closing it did not affect temps much, finally down to 229F after about 5 minutes. The old Intek with cooler would drop 50 degrees from e.g., 280F after pulling into shade with cover open ,and fan at idle in about 5-10 minutes (after hard work),
So , although, Briggs only openly says? this engine has chrome valve stems and different air cleaner , seems like some homework was performed on cooling. But this was not really a test except for the ambient temp. The dyt4000 was pretty stable this time of year with just a trailer hauling trimmings-around the same temp if I remember correctly. But its temp skyrocketed with hard work, so I will have to reserve final judgement. The Depo gauge cannot be read in bright sunlight, but the led is bright and tracks the stepper pointer well. Running 5W-30 Mobil One.
#30
ken_clifton
ken_clifton
Thanks for posting that Motoman.
It will be interesting to see how things go when it is doing some hard work. Briggs may have some design changes there that help. It seems like some of the piston skirts and other parts are Teflon coated on some of the engines -- not sure which ones.
I probably should start a new thread on this topic of Intek design changes, but I have used some parts from the "Vanguard" vertical shaft on my engine. For reference the model and type number of one is: 49V677-0001-G1
While Briggs is calling it a "Vanguard" most of the internal parts if you look at the parts diagram look very close to the older Intek series. What I was told is that Vanguards are assembled in the USA by one person -- each engine is completely built by one employee. Most of the "hard" parts have a "5" at the start of the part number, but many of the gasket part numbers are shared with the older Intek series. Don' be fooled by the outer plastic cover, if you remove that outer shield the blower housing looks almost identical. Notice they have a canister air filter fitted too. The 810cc is very close to my current Intek.
Here are some links...
Parts: Link: https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/briggs-stratton/400000-699999-series/49v600-to-49v699
Briggs Info Page: https://www.vanguardengines.com/na/en_us/engines/810cc-vtwin-vertical-shaft.html
ken_clifton
It will be interesting to see how things go when it is doing some hard work. Briggs may have some design changes there that help. It seems like some of the piston skirts and other parts are Teflon coated on some of the engines -- not sure which ones.
I probably should start a new thread on this topic of Intek design changes, but I have used some parts from the "Vanguard" vertical shaft on my engine. For reference the model and type number of one is: 49V677-0001-G1
While Briggs is calling it a "Vanguard" most of the internal parts if you look at the parts diagram look very close to the older Intek series. What I was told is that Vanguards are assembled in the USA by one person -- each engine is completely built by one employee. Most of the "hard" parts have a "5" at the start of the part number, but many of the gasket part numbers are shared with the older Intek series. Don' be fooled by the outer plastic cover, if you remove that outer shield the blower housing looks almost identical. Notice they have a canister air filter fitted too. The 810cc is very close to my current Intek.
Here are some links...
Parts: Link: https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/briggs-stratton/400000-699999-series/49v600-to-49v699
Briggs Info Page: https://www.vanguardengines.com/na/en_us/engines/810cc-vtwin-vertical-shaft.html
ken_clifton
#31
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motoman
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motoman
Ken, It would be interesting to read your summary of actual and likely design changes to Intek engines. "Little things" do make a difference in output as we know from hotrodding, but I do not think little things can change hot oil temps. Seems like it would take more, and so the real proof of "apparent" improvement in the Husqy will have to wait on some real work.
One other thing. The Husqy Intek likes to run wide open to cool its oil, but I never found that with the dyt4000. The oil flow in the Husky seems to pass oil over a cooler place where it drops some heat. The reaction is about 1 minute. I do not know if that could just be the fan effect. The dyt Intek reacts also, but it has the cooler/fan. Can you relate any of this to diesel trucks we hear idling at truck stops while their drivers take a break? The dyt cooled best at idle , hood up, fan on, and very quickly.
Incidentally, with my pseudo-science one question is accuracy of gauges. I had refereed the Beedee analog gauge with my KE temp coupler and did find the Beedee a little high (10-15Degrees) at 300F. I have not checked the Depo. motoman
One other thing. The Husqy Intek likes to run wide open to cool its oil, but I never found that with the dyt4000. The oil flow in the Husky seems to pass oil over a cooler place where it drops some heat. The reaction is about 1 minute. I do not know if that could just be the fan effect. The dyt Intek reacts also, but it has the cooler/fan. Can you relate any of this to diesel trucks we hear idling at truck stops while their drivers take a break? The dyt cooled best at idle , hood up, fan on, and very quickly.
Incidentally, with my pseudo-science one question is accuracy of gauges. I had refereed the Beedee analog gauge with my KE temp coupler and did find the Beedee a little high (10-15Degrees) at 300F. I have not checked the Depo. motoman
#32
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motoman
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motoman
I have been reading about the grass collector system for the Husqy and the eye-watering price, ?$1000. Someone said another pulley driven fan is added, etc, etc. No wonder the dealer did not elaborate when I plunked down the tractor money. If anyone has solved this for a sane price it would be good to hear. In a couple weeks I will be buried in leaves . That was one thing the dyt4000 did well , fill the 3 bins with dry or freeze-dry leaves. Guess I will have to fix the Intek.
#33
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motoman
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motoman
The dash ammeter and hour meter gauge hole sizes are 52 mm which is one standard . For anyone interested a typical probe is 1/8 NPT which can run inside an oil drain plug. Lowes still sells a nice brass adaptor to fit the Intek sump with a 1/8
NPT threaded hole in the center. I am running both these without tape. The oil plug hex size is smaller so there is no problem fouling the frame. Old Lowes pn BF-776NL, new pn A-776 110.
NPT threaded hole in the center. I am running both these without tape. The oil plug hex size is smaller so there is no problem fouling the frame. Old Lowes pn BF-776NL, new pn A-776 110.
#34
ken_clifton
ken_clifton
Motoman,
Just curious, where is your probe fitted? I assume it is in the sump. As you probably remember mine is in the oil line right before the remote oil filter.
I am sure there is all kinds of room for variance. I was careful when measuring my boiler gauge probe to be sure about 1/8 in of the probe was actually in the oil flow -- it is in the top of a 3/8 NPT tee right before the filter.
I wish that I had an IR heat gauge to read the temp on the output of the oil cooler. The delta between input and output would be interesting. My first thought is something in the sump where all the oil is sitting might be more accurate, but then again, my lines are 1/2 inch and there is a whole lot of flow there...
I guess the only way to compare apples to apples would be to fit a gauge in the same spot as yours...
ken_clifton
Just curious, where is your probe fitted? I assume it is in the sump. As you probably remember mine is in the oil line right before the remote oil filter.
I am sure there is all kinds of room for variance. I was careful when measuring my boiler gauge probe to be sure about 1/8 in of the probe was actually in the oil flow -- it is in the top of a 3/8 NPT tee right before the filter.
I wish that I had an IR heat gauge to read the temp on the output of the oil cooler. The delta between input and output would be interesting. My first thought is something in the sump where all the oil is sitting might be more accurate, but then again, my lines are 1/2 inch and there is a whole lot of flow there...
I guess the only way to compare apples to apples would be to fit a gauge in the same spot as yours...
ken_clifton
#35
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motoman
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motoman
The probe is in the sump drain plug at the right side of the pan. When screwed in about 1/8" of the probe tip protrudes beyond the plug. So the oil temp depends upon a full sump plus sloshing. With this set up the sense wire (s) must be disconnected to drain oil. This setup uses two wires. I took an HF socket and cut a slot on the side for the pig tail when torqueing the plug in or out. I looked around for another place, but felt the pan was too thin to create a hole. BTW yesterday I again observed a 5 degree rise in temp after shutting off-a heat soak.
You probably know some relatively cheap DVMs have a KE temp function. The lead tip is a fused ball of two wires which react to temp. Very accurate, but not easy to use as the tiny ball tip is fragile and must be held
on the surface to measure. That is how I will measre the K 66 case temp one day soon.
You probably know some relatively cheap DVMs have a KE temp function. The lead tip is a fused ball of two wires which react to temp. Very accurate, but not easy to use as the tiny ball tip is fragile and must be held
on the surface to measure. That is how I will measre the K 66 case temp one day soon.
#36
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motoman
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motoman
Located a 90 deg slip- on grease nipple and was able to grease the middle pulley zerk. If you have big hands forget it. First attempt could not hold nipple on square and missed. Second attempt ok. Unlike the dyt 4000 where I sneaked through the left side over the deck, the Husqy was reversed ; over the right side of the deck with my lever gun laying on the deck. Mostly by feel. It is tempting to plot an access hole through the floor board (sheet metal). With a strong light looking down from the steering shaft it looks like it might be possible with an extra long grease hose to lube from a hunched position, instead of lying flat out. An air gease gun would make things easier. If anyone has a solution to this PIA, please advise.
#37
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motoman
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motoman
Last update until warm weather and heavy work. (I don't have a blade for snow, but considering it). The dash now includes an oil pressure gauge...
On the (sick) dyt 4000 I put on a mechanical oil pressure gauge with a nylon line, but it kept blowing at the filter fitting. Then I went electric . It was 4 times the cost with the sender but promised a lot and delivered leak free for a number of years. But in the last couple years it started periods of erratic fluttering after hard, hot use with rough terrain...So....
I put on a mechanical gauge , but this time with copper line. I have read it will break so I put in gentle service loops and two rubber stabilizers for vibration damping. The connection at the filter port and the gauge have brass compression rings. You cannot reuse old compression rings. To avoid paying for a whole kit I was able to buy bulk 1/8" line at an auto store and found an on- line source for round compression rings (vs the pointy style). By adding a little washer on top of the ring , the screw caps seemed to lock the lines. We will see.
The dash had an imprinted cutout on left side above the cigarette lighter (reserved for the Brits?). The gauge is a push fit there and visible through the steering wheel spoke cutout. So...ammeter regular place, oil temp gauge to its right, time meter sheltered inside the cowl.
Reading with 5W 30, hot idle about 20 psi, full throttle 40 psi.
On the (sick) dyt 4000 I put on a mechanical oil pressure gauge with a nylon line, but it kept blowing at the filter fitting. Then I went electric . It was 4 times the cost with the sender but promised a lot and delivered leak free for a number of years. But in the last couple years it started periods of erratic fluttering after hard, hot use with rough terrain...So....
I put on a mechanical gauge , but this time with copper line. I have read it will break so I put in gentle service loops and two rubber stabilizers for vibration damping. The connection at the filter port and the gauge have brass compression rings. You cannot reuse old compression rings. To avoid paying for a whole kit I was able to buy bulk 1/8" line at an auto store and found an on- line source for round compression rings (vs the pointy style). By adding a little washer on top of the ring , the screw caps seemed to lock the lines. We will see.
The dash had an imprinted cutout on left side above the cigarette lighter (reserved for the Brits?). The gauge is a push fit there and visible through the steering wheel spoke cutout. So...ammeter regular place, oil temp gauge to its right, time meter sheltered inside the cowl.
Reading with 5W 30, hot idle about 20 psi, full throttle 40 psi.
#38
M
motoman
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motoman
I know I said enough, but a couple items.
The 60 page download of the manual mentioned earlier can be reduced by stopping at the English portion.
Sighting gas level is easier from the rear of the tractor if it has about a gallon or more. You can see it in the top of the tank just under the seat.
The tractor now has about 15 hours.
A quick description of the oil pressure take-off from the filter casting: To avoid a 180 degree reversal of the line toward the dash I used some brass fittings from Lowes-all 1/8 NPT. On the dyt 4000 I feel the reversal loop of the nylon line stressed the compression joint and contributed to leakage and separation. Anyway starting at the foward-facing 1/8 plug . You must remove the oil filter to gain working room. Remove the plug. Use a 90 deg 1/8 male/female and tighten it so the female is facing outward (parallel to the filter). Get a 1/8 male/male "nipple" (small pipe actually) about 3" long. This will extend out far enough to drop the line routing below the filter. Another 1/8 female/female fitting pointing slightly down will accept the compression fitting, and allow the copper line to be routed along the frame and then up to the dash. I did have to relieve the plastic dash cover near the frame for line clearance. (Using an oil cooler "sandwich" avoids this exercise as it will have a dash-pointed port to use).
The starter is jamming on startup when cold. It feels like the primitive British cars I used to own. Stopping the crank unlocks the jammed condition. I may have to go in on this. I am way too far from the dealer I purchased from and the local one is doubtful. Neither do I have a truck. No jamming when hot. Tooth engagement? Solenoid? You comments or experience appreciated.
The 60 page download of the manual mentioned earlier can be reduced by stopping at the English portion.
Sighting gas level is easier from the rear of the tractor if it has about a gallon or more. You can see it in the top of the tank just under the seat.
The tractor now has about 15 hours.
A quick description of the oil pressure take-off from the filter casting: To avoid a 180 degree reversal of the line toward the dash I used some brass fittings from Lowes-all 1/8 NPT. On the dyt 4000 I feel the reversal loop of the nylon line stressed the compression joint and contributed to leakage and separation. Anyway starting at the foward-facing 1/8 plug . You must remove the oil filter to gain working room. Remove the plug. Use a 90 deg 1/8 male/female and tighten it so the female is facing outward (parallel to the filter). Get a 1/8 male/male "nipple" (small pipe actually) about 3" long. This will extend out far enough to drop the line routing below the filter. Another 1/8 female/female fitting pointing slightly down will accept the compression fitting, and allow the copper line to be routed along the frame and then up to the dash. I did have to relieve the plastic dash cover near the frame for line clearance. (Using an oil cooler "sandwich" avoids this exercise as it will have a dash-pointed port to use).
The starter is jamming on startup when cold. It feels like the primitive British cars I used to own. Stopping the crank unlocks the jammed condition. I may have to go in on this. I am way too far from the dealer I purchased from and the local one is doubtful. Neither do I have a truck. No jamming when hot. Tooth engagement? Solenoid? You comments or experience appreciated.
#39
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motoman
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motoman
Ole Red Craftsman DYT 4000 is running again. Took 24 hours labor, mostly cleaning oil sludge off the heat shields behind the carb and the vertical surface of the sump. Before removing head #l 1 took compression reading. Both 130 cold, but after running engine about 5 minutes with cyl #1 hitting I took another compression reading and # 1 had dropped 10 psi while #2 was still at 130. With that and the sludge from the cyl 1 area I decided to look at the head gasket. No obvious track, but a dark crosshatch on the cylinder and head towards the exhaust side . No dark oil in the pushrod tunnels. After reassembly no life at all in cyl #1 which was not highly motivating. This time cyl #1 would not even start, Swapped plugs , no. Checked spark at #1, none. So spark became suspect. Removed shroud and looked at #1 spark unit. Looked like the leading side was gapped , and yes sitting at.020." Reduced to .010"and fired up!! Was gasket necessary? Unknown, but had it on hand and what a mess that oil sludge was. Now I can pick up some leaves!
#40
ken_clifton
ken_clifton
Glad you got it going again Motoman. The area you mention with the oil sludge is in close proximity to the crankcase breather on the Intek. I replaced my PCV/breather when I had the carb, intake and airbox off.
The manual says that the flywheel needs to be pulled, but that was not necessary. The reason I replaced the PCV/Breather is the rubber hose that comes out the top and then turns 90 degrees into the airbox was leaking oil. The PCV/breather checked out okay, but the rubber hose gets a lot of vibration causing the rubber to metal joint to become worn and loose. It has been dry ever since -- just fyi.
Best,
ken_clifton
The manual says that the flywheel needs to be pulled, but that was not necessary. The reason I replaced the PCV/Breather is the rubber hose that comes out the top and then turns 90 degrees into the airbox was leaking oil. The PCV/breather checked out okay, but the rubber hose gets a lot of vibration causing the rubber to metal joint to become worn and loose. It has been dry ever since -- just fyi.
Best,
ken_clifton
#41
M
motoman
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motoman
Ken, Thanks, If that is the culprit a lot of work for a simple fix-ha ha. From new I did have problems with dirty intake throat and could not figure it out. At about year two I finally found that the 90 degree rubber connection had not been seated by the factory at the bottom of its annular groove in the intake hole (could not see it from above).. That had let the Intek suck dirt while I carefully cleaned and changed the air cleaner above. I just read on another site that Briggs actually replaced engines due to this problem. How mine survived is a mystery.
As noted the engine runs ok now but surges like governor is working even in constant state. I will look at the springs.
Something I found I did not mention previously. While cleaning the head I noticed one edge of the casting had a shiny mark. I intended to "clearance" it before assembly, but forgot. After I found the spark module rotated .010" beyond spec at the right side I guess it was a contact point with the head? Vibration?
As noted the engine runs ok now but surges like governor is working even in constant state. I will look at the springs.
Something I found I did not mention previously. While cleaning the head I noticed one edge of the casting had a shiny mark. I intended to "clearance" it before assembly, but forgot. After I found the spark module rotated .010" beyond spec at the right side I guess it was a contact point with the head? Vibration?
#42
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motoman
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motoman
Needing to "lay in " some filters for the new machine some trivia from online and strolling H Depot and Lowes. The air cleaner spec'd on the Husky hood, 591334 is apparently superseded by 594201 , both without foam wrap. Came across pn 5428K which appears the same , but with foam wrap. On a hook at HDepot was item of interest, a John Deere air cleaner about an inch longer with foam, GY21055, but pricey. Not sure about the spigot fit. Might try it.
The small oil filter did not appear in the big box stores (or I missed it) pn 795137 (?possibly 696854)
The breather part for the dyt 4000 Intek mentioned earlier is 792185. Could not find the rubber goose neck available separate. Online.
The small oil filter did not appear in the big box stores (or I missed it) pn 795137 (?possibly 696854)
The breather part for the dyt 4000 Intek mentioned earlier is 792185. Could not find the rubber goose neck available separate. Online.
#43
ken_clifton
Motoman,
I believe just the hose is B/S part number 792184 now.
Amazon shows the rubbler hose p/n 792184 as available, albeit for around $11.00, which sounds steep to me.
They have the entire PCV/Breather with the hose and gasket 792185 for around $18.00 -- I am sure it is cheaper elsewhere.
These rubber items sure do not hold up well on the Briggs. My Intek used to have a rubber hose from the valve cover to the fuel pump -- the pulse line. I could only go about 1 year, and sometimes not even that before those hoses would split, and they were not cheap either. I finally just ordered some of the Vanguard cast aluminium valve covers (very inexpensive by the way) and drilled and pipe-tapped the one on that side with a 90 degree barb fitting. Now I use standard 1/4 inch fuel line there. It has never split.
Best,
ken_clifton
ken_clifton
The breather part for the dyt 4000 Intek mentioned earlier is 792185. Could not find the rubber goose neck available separate. Online.
Motoman,
I believe just the hose is B/S part number 792184 now.
Amazon shows the rubbler hose p/n 792184 as available, albeit for around $11.00, which sounds steep to me.
They have the entire PCV/Breather with the hose and gasket 792185 for around $18.00 -- I am sure it is cheaper elsewhere.
These rubber items sure do not hold up well on the Briggs. My Intek used to have a rubber hose from the valve cover to the fuel pump -- the pulse line. I could only go about 1 year, and sometimes not even that before those hoses would split, and they were not cheap either. I finally just ordered some of the Vanguard cast aluminium valve covers (very inexpensive by the way) and drilled and pipe-tapped the one on that side with a 90 degree barb fitting. Now I use standard 1/4 inch fuel line there. It has never split.
Best,
ken_clifton
#44
M
motoman
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motoman
Ken, I will look for the pn you suggested for the hose. Odd your experience with the little fuel pump hose as mine has lasted 12 years. Sounds like yours was not the fuel/oil proof stuff, perhaps just black vacuum line, or Chinese copy? BTW looks like Jacks is the way to go for the whole breather assy with tube for $12 plus ship- a picture pops up either there or partstree. I see two fuel filters on one of your pics (??). thanks
#45
ken_clifton
Ah, yes, the two fuel filters... Here is the story behind that:
The first filter is really just a screen -- notice it is red in color. It is a WIX strainer filter for diesel engines -- around 150 microns. That is installed prior to the fuel pump. This is because if you put too fine of a filter between a gravity fed fuel tank and the pump it can cause issues. On the SCAG the fuel tank is only about 3-4 inches above the filter and the fuel liine is about 3 feet long. Putting a fine filter like the normal 25 micron Briggs is just asking for trouble in hot weather especially.
The second filter is a fine 12 micron (if memory serves) located between the fuel pump and the carburetor. At this point in the system the fuel pump is "pushing/pumping" the fuel, so it has sufficient force to overcome the restriction caused by the fine fuel filter.
This is the normal setup for most racing -- a strainer or screen prior to the fuel pump and then a fine fuel filter between the pump and the carburetor. This has worked well for me for many years. I seldom if ever change the strainer, only the fine 12 micron filter.
ken_clifton
ken_clifton
I see two fuel filters on one of your pics (??). thanks
Ah, yes, the two fuel filters... Here is the story behind that:
The first filter is really just a screen -- notice it is red in color. It is a WIX strainer filter for diesel engines -- around 150 microns. That is installed prior to the fuel pump. This is because if you put too fine of a filter between a gravity fed fuel tank and the pump it can cause issues. On the SCAG the fuel tank is only about 3-4 inches above the filter and the fuel liine is about 3 feet long. Putting a fine filter like the normal 25 micron Briggs is just asking for trouble in hot weather especially.
The second filter is a fine 12 micron (if memory serves) located between the fuel pump and the carburetor. At this point in the system the fuel pump is "pushing/pumping" the fuel, so it has sufficient force to overcome the restriction caused by the fine fuel filter.
This is the normal setup for most racing -- a strainer or screen prior to the fuel pump and then a fine fuel filter between the pump and the carburetor. This has worked well for me for many years. I seldom if ever change the strainer, only the fine 12 micron filter.
ken_clifton
#46
ken_clifton
The different series of Inteks use different pulse hoses to the fuel pump. Some have a straight up hose from the valve cover to the pump. Others have hoses with a sharp 90 degree bend. Mine had the sharp 90 degree bend, it is Briggs & Stratton p/n 793147 Vacuum Hose (click for photo at Amazon). They all appear to be made in China. I got one from Jacks, another two from Morrison Outdoor Power, and one from Amazon. None of them held up for very long.
I would have to get out a magnifying glass to see the crack but they all did it. A couple of times when I didn't have one on hand, I would use some silicone rtv to patch the crack.. I am just glad I don't have to mess with that trash any longer. The cast aluminum O.E. Briggs valve covers from their "Vanguard" Intek look alike are real good, but the boxes said made in China too. I believe they were $11 each. I like them much better than the stamped steel covers -- which I think actually cost more ?
ken_clifton
ken_clifton
Ken, I will look for the pn you suggested for the hose. Odd your experience with the little fuel pump hose as mine has lasted 12 years. Sounds like yours was not the fuel/oil proof stuff, perhaps just black vacuum line, or Chinese copy?
The different series of Inteks use different pulse hoses to the fuel pump. Some have a straight up hose from the valve cover to the pump. Others have hoses with a sharp 90 degree bend. Mine had the sharp 90 degree bend, it is Briggs & Stratton p/n 793147 Vacuum Hose (click for photo at Amazon). They all appear to be made in China. I got one from Jacks, another two from Morrison Outdoor Power, and one from Amazon. None of them held up for very long.
I would have to get out a magnifying glass to see the crack but they all did it. A couple of times when I didn't have one on hand, I would use some silicone rtv to patch the crack.. I am just glad I don't have to mess with that trash any longer. The cast aluminum O.E. Briggs valve covers from their "Vanguard" Intek look alike are real good, but the boxes said made in China too. I believe they were $11 each. I like them much better than the stamped steel covers -- which I think actually cost more ?
ken_clifton
#47
M
motoman
M
motoman
I did notice the boxes and they are very dressy. Thanks for the explanation on the two fuel filters.
#48
M
motoman
M
motoman
Early on I thought the 44N ...engine (Endurance) might be a little different. Saw an old blog stating the fan is bigger, but I measured the top as the same. The JDeere filter MIU 11513 may be for a 21 hp Briggs single. Seems to have the same 1-1/2" ID and is 1 inch longer. Looks like the Husky (Intek) cover would require relief to accept that length. It was stated the oil filter crosses to Fram PH 3656 or PH 8170. I have had some problem with a Fram filter thread on an auto application recently. The lead thread defective and would not start.
#49
ken_clifton
ken_clifton
Hi Motoman,
Not to sound bad, but I have never liked Fram filters. If you ever cut one open you will see the cardboard end caps. Folks get into real long discussions about all this, but just give me some metal end caps and decent media. Personally I will never use Fram.
From the WIX filter reference, here are the specs on the original yellow (long life) Briggs oil filter:
OE Briggs OIL FILTER
Part Number: 696854
SPECS
Equipment Type Lawn Mower
Equipment Type Walk Behind Mower
Equipment Type Commercial Mower
Height 2 1/4"
Micron 28
OD 3"
7-9 PSI pressure relief
Anti-drain
Thread Size 3/4" -16
---------------------------------------
I used to run a WIX 51348 or NAPA 1348 filter. It is a little bit longer filter with more media, same thread size and 20 micron filtration.
Best,
ken_clifton
Not to sound bad, but I have never liked Fram filters. If you ever cut one open you will see the cardboard end caps. Folks get into real long discussions about all this, but just give me some metal end caps and decent media. Personally I will never use Fram.
From the WIX filter reference, here are the specs on the original yellow (long life) Briggs oil filter:
OE Briggs OIL FILTER
Part Number: 696854
SPECS
Equipment Type Lawn Mower
Equipment Type Walk Behind Mower
Equipment Type Commercial Mower
Height 2 1/4"
Micron 28
OD 3"
7-9 PSI pressure relief
Anti-drain
Thread Size 3/4" -16
---------------------------------------
I used to run a WIX 51348 or NAPA 1348 filter. It is a little bit longer filter with more media, same thread size and 20 micron filtration.
Best,
ken_clifton
#50
M
motoman
M
motoman
Ken, Thanks for the tips again. Others also dislike FRAM. I will look at WIX and NAPA.
#52
M
motoman
M
motoman
Experts say an engine needs to see 200F + temp to drive out moisture /condensation. At 40F here and running about 20 minutes with light hauling the Intek would not rise past 168F. Idling will not change that. I guess this says repeated running like this is not good and relies entirely on oil additives to deal with trapped moisture which would seem to finally reach their limit , allowing corrosion and sludging to begin.This temp being read on a Depo electronic gauge. (Never happy , right? Usually too hot. Where are the 3 bears?)
#53
M
motoman
M
motoman
Snow and ice so tried the Husqy locking diff. It pushed right through 4" snow although it would not turn sharply at speed and plowed straight ahead , pushing the turned front wheels. Slowing down avoided this mostly. All this was on level ground. Then I started down a slight incline and began to spin. Turned back. Perhaps need chains and weights. I was expecting to get "beached" on snow under the deck, but that did not happen. A good first attempt, I think.
#54
B
bertsmobile1
It is not a magic number, but a combination of heat & time.
We used to "dry" samples for assay at a variety of temperatures some very low to prevent vapourising parts of the sample.
Some times it might take a week till we got a constant weight if the temperature was very low.
B
bertsmobile1
Experts say an engine needs to see 200F + temp to drive out moisture /condensation. At 40F here and running about 20 minutes with light hauling the Intek would not rise past 168F. Idling will not change that. I guess this says repeated running like this is not good and relies entirely on oil additives to deal with trapped moisture which would seem to finally reach their limit , allowing corrosion and sludging to begin.This temp being read on a Depo electronic gauge. (Never happy , right? Usually too hot. Where are the 3 bears?)
It is not a magic number, but a combination of heat & time.
We used to "dry" samples for assay at a variety of temperatures some very low to prevent vapourising parts of the sample.
Some times it might take a week till we got a constant weight if the temperature was very low.
#55
M
motoman
M
motoman
Today 43F and put a moderate load on the Intek. The blacktop street was loaded with still frozen twigs and pine needles. Pulled a lawn aerator rake ( the kind with the spring wire teeth) on the blacktop, loosening the stuff and with the blades running to blow the road clean, slight hill. After one hour the max oil temp on the Depo gauge was 189F. So I guess it would take some snow blade work with this setup to reach target 200F+ in winter temps? Anyone try a circular restrictor on the fan intake? (Would not recommend this without a gauge)
#56
M
motoman
M
motoman
Today 49F, same task as above. Oil temp reached 198F pulling the little rake and "blowing" with the blades on. Then on level , about 6 blocks round trip to mail box, oil temp 187F, so the "work" contributed 11 degrees F to oil temp. I think this (heavier) machine uses more gas than Craftsman dyt4000, same engine, but have not measured ....and...can the 6 degree hotter ambient air through the intake raise oil temp 9 degrees F???
#57
M
motoman
M
motoman
Late cold/wet spring here, Just finished spreading 1000 lb of granular lime with a Brinley spreader which is ground driven with 11 star wheels, 40-50lb bags per shot. Ambient 50F. Intek registered max 185F on oil temp gauge. First half way "work" this season. The Intek has developed an intermittent hesitation to start after shutdown while hot. Requires two or three pushes of "smart starter" button. Sensation is low or empty fuel bowl, or ? balky? gas shutoff solenoid. Not a major problem, but a glitch. The previously mentioned "jamming" on starter application is still occasional. This thing uses more gas than my "ultra light" DYT 4000 so I find myself shutting down while e.g., I load the next bag of lime in order to save some gas. Interesting to me that the "load" of the relatively light "rake" used to clear the roadway (above in thread) produces the same oil temp as the Brinley which is digging in and a much greater load. Hmmmm? Hope y'all are having a good mowing season.
#58
ken_clifton
Hi Motoman,
Sounds like the o-rings in the bottom of that Intek carb might be starting to go. I guess that I can't complain -- mine lasted 8 years. They sit in fuel all the time and eventually start releasing pieces of rubber that clog the jets. The symptoms are exactly what you describe. I thought it was the fuel pump for the longest time.
Regarding oil temps, my SCAG Tiger Cub's oil temp was running about 220 in February when I had to mow. The ambient temps were about 60 degrees. Higher throttle settings directly relate to higher oil temps for me. I know there is a lot of talk in these forums about running the mowers wide-open. I don't do that. It would be interesting to see if the CHT tracks the oil temps...
Best,
Ken C.
ken_clifton
Requires two or three pushes of "smart starter" button. Sensation is low or empty fuel bowl, or ? balky? gas shutoff solenoid.
Hi Motoman,
Sounds like the o-rings in the bottom of that Intek carb might be starting to go. I guess that I can't complain -- mine lasted 8 years. They sit in fuel all the time and eventually start releasing pieces of rubber that clog the jets. The symptoms are exactly what you describe. I thought it was the fuel pump for the longest time.
Regarding oil temps, my SCAG Tiger Cub's oil temp was running about 220 in February when I had to mow. The ambient temps were about 60 degrees. Higher throttle settings directly relate to higher oil temps for me. I know there is a lot of talk in these forums about running the mowers wide-open. I don't do that. It would be interesting to see if the CHT tracks the oil temps...
Best,
Ken C.
#59
M
motoman
M
motoman
Hi Ken, Thanks. Hate to think o rings since this thing only has about 80 hours. I have been running the rig wide open. It does pull the Brinley without a whimper. Winter is hanging on here like today 42F. The colombia river is at record high and they are looking at the levees. Something we don't normally hear out here. For a good laugh to Midwesterners and also you (I guess) the local news is covering a "tornado" here yesterday , category "0" on the scale. I guess we're wannabes. Ha Ha. Regards motoman
#60
M
motoman
M
motoman
BTW after much reluctance I bought a Predator pressure washer with the cloned Honda motor. I know,,,,, I know.....but the thing was on sale and the cashier found me another coupon so I bought the 2 yr warranty ($80). This thing will either grenade or last. Who knows. I know there is a lot of controversy on this engine. In the current Harbor Freight ads the bare engine is selling for $99. This engine is offered in HF generators and the buzz on a "generator site " is really mixed. A lot of failures are related to bad maintenance (what's new). The engine has a low oil warning switch. There is a 90 day return period. Someone tell me if this subject would make a good separate thread. Armor is in place. :laughing:
#61
M
motoman
M
motoman
Ambient 50F. Pulled the "rake" on the blacktop road while running the cutting blades to blast the road clean. After about an hour oil temp 199F.
#62
M
motoman
M
motoman
Ambient 60F, constant 15 mph wind, mowed first low grass for an hour, Oil temp 204F max, oil pressure 36-38 psi at hottest with 5W-30 Mobil 1. Earlier misread total hours. There are only 32 on this tractor. No starter jamming, no dying/ restarting at startup. :smile:
#64
M
motoman
M
motoman
The deer have killed several of the expensive saplings planted so made some horse fence circular barriers. Yesterday a small one had blown over and was waiting for me...instant stop during mowing as the blades wound up tight on the land mine. Fearing worst I slogged back to shop and brought small hydraulic jack across field and lay in mud disentangling the mess. I have made a mobile of the wire to hang in the shop. So far no serious damage.
Earlier grumbling about restarting hot Intek. It "may" be that I have (finally) discovered a feature of the smart ignition switch. After punching in the start "password" the center button goes green....but if the brake is not held down while cranking the engine will only start for a few seconds and stop, while holding down the brake continuously when starting seems to overcome this problem. (Maybe it is in the factory instructions and I missed it?)
Earlier grumbling about restarting hot Intek. It "may" be that I have (finally) discovered a feature of the smart ignition switch. After punching in the start "password" the center button goes green....but if the brake is not held down while cranking the engine will only start for a few seconds and stop, while holding down the brake continuously when starting seems to overcome this problem. (Maybe it is in the factory instructions and I missed it?)
#65
M
motoman
M
motoman
Finally quit raining here. Mowed grass today, ambient 90F. Oil temp 244F. The Craftsman dyt 4000 Intek with the oil cooler would have been at 280-290F. Although the Husqy does not carry the 3 bag weight of 120 lbs it exceeds the weight of the dyt 4000 as a true garden tractor. I must conclude this Husqy Intek runs much cooler. I wonder if somehow the airflow dudes developed a fan flow program that made changes to the fan/air routing or finning.
Changes that would not be obvious to naked eye. Mobil 1 oil , 5w 30, 35 psi on gauge.
Still getting used to the smart ignition. So must hold down brake pedal to get green light on rubber button when starting AND must keep holding the brake pedal for a couple of seconds or engine will die. Catch it while dying with a light press of the center green and it resumes running. Still getting the jamming occasionally on starter engagement. If the mating gears are handshaking I wish they would get it over. The engine is holding the 5w 30 with no loss which never happened on the dyt 4000 Intek . It required topping every hour to keep it on full (never smoke).
Changes that would not be obvious to naked eye. Mobil 1 oil , 5w 30, 35 psi on gauge.
Still getting used to the smart ignition. So must hold down brake pedal to get green light on rubber button when starting AND must keep holding the brake pedal for a couple of seconds or engine will die. Catch it while dying with a light press of the center green and it resumes running. Still getting the jamming occasionally on starter engagement. If the mating gears are handshaking I wish they would get it over. The engine is holding the 5w 30 with no loss which never happened on the dyt 4000 Intek . It required topping every hour to keep it on full (never smoke).
#66
M
motoman
M
motoman
Mowed the same areas mentioned with the dandelions back in Aug. In that session 90F and oil at 240F, doing "no real work." Today drizzle and the area had 12"-18" wet grass so a real test , but without the ambient heat. Nibbled and went easy as this is really "abuse" for this garden tractor. It is 58F and oil 220F. Stuck several times on slimy grass in low spots and mole hill "grease." K66 locker switch on briefly and out of trouble. Sweet. Cleanup of the heavy "adobe" under the deck about the same as dyt 4000, but the topside deck pulley housings are much better shielding the pulleys. Probably should not mention that the starter jamming has stopped.
#67
M
motoman
M
motoman
Probably not considered by the design group so not necessarily a criticism. Many trees here with (purposely) unpruned lower branches. This requires ducking and slow going under the branches. The "dash " design features a vertical throttle lever on the left and the locking differential rocker switch on the right forward horizontal portion of the cowl. Branches close the throttle lever and yesterday broke off the nice (but weak) plastic diff locker switch. Pity because the switch is lighted with a tiny bulb to signal that the locker is ON. Hmm, the solution...a little metal cage over the switch? Better location? The throttle lever is not really a problem. Will probably sub a metal toggle switch, but first make an attempt to replace it with original.
#68
M
motoman
M
motoman
Closer exam of switch which "broke" off. Designers at work here as the switch is a "break away" which I am able to snap back into place. Pleasant surprise as this switch is not cheap to replace. The "light bulb" when locking diff is on is really an LED which says there is a little circuit in the switch to support it. Still, for under branch operation, the switch needs a shield of some kind (for me). I was lucky to find the rocker part and not lose it .
#69
M
motoman
M
motoman
Aluminum guard in place over locker switch. First blade removal easy. Blades are balanced from factory to !/16 of an ounce. After sharpening imbalance zeroed with jig. Same star present on blades as dyt 4000 , washer improved with strength ribs.
While left side was up another look at the K 66 transmission. With back light all the plugs and fill ports are visible, but may be unreachable in this machine. With a 6" dia. butch plate hole cut through the back chassis plate all seems doable, but what would that do to the stiffness of the chassis? Perhaps with a thick butch plate torqued down with cap screws...fear factor here. It is frustrating to see the fill, drain and expansion tank with no apparent way to access. BTW the bottom 2 drain plugs appear like the other assembly fasteners except the hex heads are 9/16" (others smaller) and they are color coded green. I like the underside paint of the deck in orange...aiding in cleaning (contrast).
While left side was up another look at the K 66 transmission. With back light all the plugs and fill ports are visible, but may be unreachable in this machine. With a 6" dia. butch plate hole cut through the back chassis plate all seems doable, but what would that do to the stiffness of the chassis? Perhaps with a thick butch plate torqued down with cap screws...fear factor here. It is frustrating to see the fill, drain and expansion tank with no apparent way to access. BTW the bottom 2 drain plugs appear like the other assembly fasteners except the hex heads are 9/16" (others smaller) and they are color coded green. I like the underside paint of the deck in orange...aiding in cleaning (contrast).
#70
M
motoman
M
motoman
Both wheels off . There are cut outs on both sides of the chassis enabling "small" hands to see and feel "C," a pinch type screw cap for filling the gear compartment and the pop-off lid to the hydro expansion tank (from left side). The level of oil as delivered is confirmed below the Tuff Torque recommended level in this tank. A drain and fill was deemed possible in place until a close look at the "A" (hydro fill port) and "B" (hydro fill port hold down machine screw) on the right side. Unlike the Tuff Torque on-line picture the Husky fan/pulley on top has the lower pulley edge set dead center on the "B" hold down screw. It is not possible to loosed the fan/pulley nut to raise it because the gas tank is too close. This is a real bummer (for the crazy few) because it seems the trans must be either dropped or removed to drain/fill the unit. The only remaining question is about the hydro fill port...does the aluminum cap "A" contain a one way valve? Is it like a car radiator expansion tank? Between the expansion tank and the fill port "A" is a flexible rubber hose which possibly could be used. Attempts to reach a Tuff Torque tech are about 1 in 5 but will try to ask this question. After reading a little it seems the main value in the oil change is to the hydro side which is apparently the failure point (at least on the K 46's)?
Edit: Correct A,B, C positions. Black rubber hose is rigid. Could not reach tech at Tuff Torque. Trans removal may not be that hard (ha ha).
Edit: Correct A,B, C positions. Black rubber hose is rigid. Could not reach tech at Tuff Torque. Trans removal may not be that hard (ha ha).
#71
M
motoman
M
motoman
Transmission is out and gear compartment drained- about 1.3 liter. The fan is nylon, held on by a locking (nylok) nut. Fan has a pattern of 6 holes around the top which looks intended for a spanner type wrench. Fan design is apparently to "wobble) a bit in run. No end float, but side to side about .020" play while locked in position. A 2 point spanner will not hold the fan against the unlocking torque applied (nut will not turn), as the spanner deflects (smears)the fan material. Tried two strap wrenches on the pulley which did not work (harbor freight junk now in the trash). Today will make 6 point spanner. As noted the hydro oil compartment cannot be filled or easily drained without removal of the aluminum cover cap held down by a cap screw which is set under the fan pulley lower rim. This tranny is a very pretty thing and a pity it is hidden within the chassis box. Below the fan nut is a large washer possibly keyed to the input shaft. Maybe a vice grip can be used on it to hold the shaft/pulley for loosening.
Most time was spent in set up. Used cherry picker to raise tractor. Worked well. Have procedure for the curious few. (Not done yet)
Edit: Nope, washer spins. Finally pinched bottom pulley rim with vise grip to stop against trans casting. Easy nut removal. The wobble is due to apparent slight taper of shaft splines. Pulley seated has almost no play, so perhaps a design factor. The 6 fan holes are not meant for spanner removal-very thin.
Overnight drip drain of gear chamber produced another .6 liters of oil which is surprising to me, perhaps due to superior cling of synthetic oil? So total gear chamber drain= 1.9 liters. No wear particles noticed.
Most time was spent in set up. Used cherry picker to raise tractor. Worked well. Have procedure for the curious few. (Not done yet)
Edit: Nope, washer spins. Finally pinched bottom pulley rim with vise grip to stop against trans casting. Easy nut removal. The wobble is due to apparent slight taper of shaft splines. Pulley seated has almost no play, so perhaps a design factor. The 6 fan holes are not meant for spanner removal-very thin.
Overnight drip drain of gear chamber produced another .6 liters of oil which is surprising to me, perhaps due to superior cling of synthetic oil? So total gear chamber drain= 1.9 liters. No wear particles noticed.
#72
M
motoman
M
motoman
The hydro side: Remove 12 mm hex cap screw hold-down to uncover fill hole. Nice o-ring design. The aluminum cap pulls up with a 3/4" long spout, another reason this variation of Tuff Torque cannot be filled in place. Initial drain amount .4 liter, still dripping. Catch tank had small trace of wear powder in corner . A metal pickup tube is attached to the black line portion of the connection from tank to fill hole. This metal tube is oriented to one corner of the tank for (apparent) gain and loss. Instructions require a full hydro compartment and then tank addition to the first lower "long" fill tank graduation. (Just now the total 2 compartment volume is 1.9 liter plus .4 liter. Tuff Torque says 2.6 is the full volume).
Edit: After turning the spline shaft a revolution another .3 liter came out over a period of an hour. So the drain total is equal to Tuff Torque guidelines of 2.6 total for the 2 compartments, but slow process. The gear compartment stopped accepting oil at just over 1 liter (need 1.9). Tried tipping and moving trans and axles-no improvement. For me this is a baby in need of burping for the next 5 hours during which it accepts a very little at a time. I say burping ,but no bubbles visible. I finally quit and will check tomorrow because it still needs about another 100 ml. The hydro compartment filled up easily.
Shaft spline is tapered .003" bottom to top. After torque, with dial indicator, pulley wobble is .012" and fan a whopping .090" There are what look like clearance cut notches on each fan blade on the pulley side so this may be design?
Edit: After turning the spline shaft a revolution another .3 liter came out over a period of an hour. So the drain total is equal to Tuff Torque guidelines of 2.6 total for the 2 compartments, but slow process. The gear compartment stopped accepting oil at just over 1 liter (need 1.9). Tried tipping and moving trans and axles-no improvement. For me this is a baby in need of burping for the next 5 hours during which it accepts a very little at a time. I say burping ,but no bubbles visible. I finally quit and will check tomorrow because it still needs about another 100 ml. The hydro compartment filled up easily.
Shaft spline is tapered .003" bottom to top. After torque, with dial indicator, pulley wobble is .012" and fan a whopping .090" There are what look like clearance cut notches on each fan blade on the pulley side so this may be design?
#73
M
motoman
M
motoman
Overnight the gear side oil dropped about an inch in the narrow fill hole, so the first drain must have been a little less than stated. Closed it up and mated trans to tractor.
Summary: The transmissions did not need the drain/fill. Very little evidence of wear (in the oil-hydro side only). Only about 60 hours easy use.
Most owners should stay away except for extreme usage.
Ironies: Neither oil compartment can be drained/filled in place. The gear side would drive you nuts waiting to fill with a tube. The
hydro side goes glug glug glug, but you cannot access it due to the pulley/fan/gas tank.
The transmission is heavy working alone (50 lbs) . Procedure used showed that a better way exists next time (ha ha). Will advise the
better way to interested parties.
Summary: The transmissions did not need the drain/fill. Very little evidence of wear (in the oil-hydro side only). Only about 60 hours easy use.
Most owners should stay away except for extreme usage.
Ironies: Neither oil compartment can be drained/filled in place. The gear side would drive you nuts waiting to fill with a tube. The
hydro side goes glug glug glug, but you cannot access it due to the pulley/fan/gas tank.
The transmission is heavy working alone (50 lbs) . Procedure used showed that a better way exists next time (ha ha). Will advise the
better way to interested parties.
#74
M
motoman
M
motoman
About to stop, but need to correct some of my trash talk. Duh, lower the cutting deck to more easily access the zerks! Here' a good one: One tired night I was able to mount the left wheel backwards...felt funny, and now I feel funny telling it. Never a problem with the battery hold downs which I mentioned earlier. I will try to post a couple pics of the trans drain and the dash gauge layout .
#76
M
motoman
M
motoman
Backup on this unit requires pressing the proper button on the smart key ignition surround. Then it blinks at you , giving permission so the reverse pedal works. Just now I can simply press the reverse pedal, suggesting that smart key function has stopped working. Tractor one year usage, about 70 hours. Will check if a connector has come loose.
#77
M
motoman
M
motoman
After a recent trickle charge the smart start button surround symbol for "backup " started working again. Do not know why as an LED takes very little current to light up.
Nuts, there is suddenly a strong "surge" in the Intek. It repeats about every couple seconds. I had been using the Husqy to haul tools for a couple weeks where it never reached proper op temp 200F. Yesterday in 95F heat the engine reached 200F and the surge began. It is there also on cold restart. Seems more than a coincidence it occurred after heating engine to proper temp. I can stop it by holding the little down rod from the governor.
Any tips appreciated. Perhaps a gas cutoff half stuck? I will search here .
Edit: Started up, no surging. Changed fuel filter and cut it open. Nothing visible with 10X loupe. Added some Sta Bil. The threads all suggest fuel blockage as the source. Ran this morning in 94F and oil up to 210F . Balky fuel shut off?
Smart start key: The reverse led is functioning but does not stop the operator from backing up when it is not on.
Nuts, there is suddenly a strong "surge" in the Intek. It repeats about every couple seconds. I had been using the Husqy to haul tools for a couple weeks where it never reached proper op temp 200F. Yesterday in 95F heat the engine reached 200F and the surge began. It is there also on cold restart. Seems more than a coincidence it occurred after heating engine to proper temp. I can stop it by holding the little down rod from the governor.
Any tips appreciated. Perhaps a gas cutoff half stuck? I will search here .
Edit: Started up, no surging. Changed fuel filter and cut it open. Nothing visible with 10X loupe. Added some Sta Bil. The threads all suggest fuel blockage as the source. Ran this morning in 94F and oil up to 210F . Balky fuel shut off?
Smart start key: The reverse led is functioning but does not stop the operator from backing up when it is not on.
#78
cpurvis
cpurvis
Baldwin B7165 crosses to the Briggs number. Baldwin makes good filters. Like others, I avoid FRAM spin-on oil filters. You can hide a lot of substandard materials and workmanship in an enclosed filter. Their air filters are OK, you can't hide anything there.Ken, Thanks for the tips again. Others also dislike FRAM. I will look at WIX and NAPA.
#80
M
motoman
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motoman
Briggs 793569/793685 air filter with foam is one inch longer. A 15 minute mod to the plastic housing.
Attachments
#81
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motoman
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motoman
Boobala over in Briggs engine forum caused me to look at the "gas " rods at the front of the engine. While taking a pic I discovered a broken spring on the rightmost vertical control rod, a little guy of only .014" wire diameter. I did have a surging problem a while back which disappeared and the 'chine is running well now. But another early component failure-about 80 hours total.
Attachments
#82
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
That spring is a damper and prevents a hysterisys event where the governor shaft slightly overshoots then over corrects then overshoots and overcorrects to a smaller & smaller amount till it finally smooths out.
#83
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motoman
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motoman
Bert, Thanks, I was thinking along those lines. Layman's ..kind of a "bouncing thing" (surge?)so the bounce can set up another , setting up another. I had reached under there and held that rod ( I think) when the surging happened, but that force seemed too great to have been dampened by that spring. I guess I can expect more of the same.
#84
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bertsmobile1
Got it in one.
Been caught out more than once cleaning then recleaning then replacing fuel lines & pumps only to find out the "surging" was nothing more than a busted or incorrectly positioned spring.
B
bertsmobile1
Bert, Thanks, I was thinking along those lines. Layman's ..kind of a "bouncing thing" (surge?)so the bounce can set up another , setting up another. I had reached under there and held that rod ( I think) when the surging happened, but that force seemed too great to have been dampened by that spring. I guess I can expect more of the same.
Got it in one.
Been caught out more than once cleaning then recleaning then replacing fuel lines & pumps only to find out the "surging" was nothing more than a busted or incorrectly positioned spring.
#85
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motoman
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motoman
Just a word to say the machine is running well and not overheating. About 95 hours. Does not throw 5w 30.
#87
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motoman
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motoman
Lot's of mowing and back up among many trees. The deck output chute flap tore off today. The action on it is to "dip" or "dig in" on backup under the trees. Not durable. A bit more than 100 hours use.
Attachments
#88
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Sit down before you ask the price of a replacement, then you will understand why you see so many with no flap on the chute.
If you do replace it make a hole in the flap near the end and put some string in there so you can pull it up out of the way.
When I do this for customers I use a cup hook that is on a small plate, drill a hole in the flap and thread the hook through from the inside so the base spreads the load and being flat the grass does not get caught on it on the way out.
If you do replace it make a hole in the flap near the end and put some string in there so you can pull it up out of the way.
When I do this for customers I use a cup hook that is on a small plate, drill a hole in the flap and thread the hook through from the inside so the base spreads the load and being flat the grass does not get caught on it on the way out.
#89
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motoman
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motoman
Flap of different material still perfect on DYT 4000 since 2004! This "rubber ducky" stands in sharp contrast to the Humvee, welded deck next to it. Does it dampen objects that may be thrown, and so provide a safety feature? If so replacement is a good idea...thinking of the young lady with the head wound. This Husqy is a study in design contrasts...tin can seat bracketry, rubber ducky flap....welded deck , unreadable gas gauge. This mower uses gas!!
But the engine pleases, running cool 230F oil temp and holding 5w-30 . Still some starter jamming at turn-on. Like it overall.
But the engine pleases, running cool 230F oil temp and holding 5w-30 . Still some starter jamming at turn-on. Like it overall.
#90
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motoman
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motoman
Several months ago I happened into a Lowes where they display their riders out front. There, much to surprise, was a Husqy like mine but with Kaw power, the version I tried to find , but failed. Anyway it was used with unknown hours for $3K. I think it had a 50" deck. Wonder why it was there and if a happy owner was found. That machine is way above the usual big box mix I see there.
#91
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motoman
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motoman
Again at Lowes...a zero turn with Kaw for $3000 , missing belts. Hmmm, wonder what else is wrong. This Husqy is running well with zero oil consumption and NO overheating according to my dash oil temp gauge.
No response from electric dash switch to engage locking diff. Have not yet troubleshot it.
No response from electric dash switch to engage locking diff. Have not yet troubleshot it.
#92
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motoman
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motoman
Stall out and will only start and run at very low rpm...perhaps 200 rpm and not enough power to return to shop. Smart switch flashing all symbols. After stall green light and starter will turn over engine, but weak/ to no start. Since there has been starter jamming since new I pulled the starter and examined its and flywheel teeth which look ok.
Other forums have exposed failure of 12v feed from smart sw to gas solenoid and one starter solenoid burn up. The starter has a Briggs logo outline stamped on it , but no name and I cannot find the starter PN online ( 150929c2) although many pictures come up of identical (Chinese) replacements. Many have replaced the sw @ $230 without solving.
The red bat symbol flashes, but hydrometer shows good bat. Curious , a Briggs engine IPL schematic shows the BAT symbol, but on the electrical parts page there is no starter shown.
Anyone had/solved this?
Other forums have exposed failure of 12v feed from smart sw to gas solenoid and one starter solenoid burn up. The starter has a Briggs logo outline stamped on it , but no name and I cannot find the starter PN online ( 150929c2) although many pictures come up of identical (Chinese) replacements. Many have replaced the sw @ $230 without solving.
The red bat symbol flashes, but hydrometer shows good bat. Curious , a Briggs engine IPL schematic shows the BAT symbol, but on the electrical parts page there is no starter shown.
Anyone had/solved this?
#93
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motoman
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motoman
Running again after removal/disassembly of starter. Looked new. (right hand t-40 starter mounting screw difficult-inaccessible and locktited). Starter still jamming , suspect bad solenoid.
Online search for "smart switch" problems shows frustrations and many $200 replacements with no improvement. ( looks like a Chinese copy available for $100). Most expressed problems deal with inability to reprogram security number. The "all symbols flashing" of the smart switch is not user friendly, especially when immediately followed by a green "go ahead" light ( of no value in fault isolation) I expected the flexible switch cover to fail with repetitive thumb or index contacts over the years, but that has not happened. There is a "smart switch" schematic available online. It merely references the switch at the top of the page ("beware transistors!") and devotes the rest of the schematic to the harness interconnects (useful). There is a "diagnostic" connector shown, but searching online revealed nothing for the curious owner. Impression is that the switch is blamed for many unrelated things. One user found no voltage at the carb solenoid which is controlled by the switch. In this episode during "no start" the starter jamming may have caused the red bat symbol to flash as the solenoid stuck on momentarily depleted bat current. Husqvarna may have stopped using the smart switch. Its status as prime suspect in all things would be enough to extinguish it.
Online search for "smart switch" problems shows frustrations and many $200 replacements with no improvement. ( looks like a Chinese copy available for $100). Most expressed problems deal with inability to reprogram security number. The "all symbols flashing" of the smart switch is not user friendly, especially when immediately followed by a green "go ahead" light ( of no value in fault isolation) I expected the flexible switch cover to fail with repetitive thumb or index contacts over the years, but that has not happened. There is a "smart switch" schematic available online. It merely references the switch at the top of the page ("beware transistors!") and devotes the rest of the schematic to the harness interconnects (useful). There is a "diagnostic" connector shown, but searching online revealed nothing for the curious owner. Impression is that the switch is blamed for many unrelated things. One user found no voltage at the carb solenoid which is controlled by the switch. In this episode during "no start" the starter jamming may have caused the red bat symbol to flash as the solenoid stuck on momentarily depleted bat current. Husqvarna may have stopped using the smart switch. Its status as prime suspect in all things would be enough to extinguish it.
#94
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motoman
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motoman
Still jamming, but not as much with new starter solenoid. The locking diff stopped working, Searching has not shown a drawing of total linkage. An electrical schematic shows the connector from dash switch, but no solenoid or actuator..Came across a good 2 part youtube showing disassembly and reassembly of the K 66, The locking feature is a sliding mechanism with hardened pins which are engaged with a lever/ring assembly which reminds me a little of an auto synchro collar. I watched both presentations , but never got a view of a solenoid, The presenter had cracked one axle housing, but never said how. Anyway, the impression I got is that the housing is not real strong. Further, the guy had to buy a new pan (another casting). It would not sit flat dry with a .032" gap . He got a second one which was not better. The presenter is a patient man because working alone (or otherwise) is not easy and he had the unit in and out several times. Tuff Torq finally told him to RTV and torque it down. Halo image soiled a little? My Husqy is running well , but I did get stuck this summer without the locker. I will post if I get more information.
Edit ,6/22: Forgot to add I really like this upscale Briggs motor. The smart switch is behaving. So far I have not checked valves
( my bad), and best of all the oil temp gauge never exceeds 235F, a welcome change from " ole fire pot," the DYT 4000 still used to suck up leaves in Fall. Hi Ken...glad you are still running!
Edit ,6/22: Forgot to add I really like this upscale Briggs motor. The smart switch is behaving. So far I have not checked valves
( my bad), and best of all the oil temp gauge never exceeds 235F, a welcome change from " ole fire pot," the DYT 4000 still used to suck up leaves in Fall. Hi Ken...glad you are still running!
#95
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motoman
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motoman
Just to report on search for info on the diff lock system. The only thing found is a schematic with an "M" symbol linked back to the connector power (red/black) suggesting a "stepper motor" ?? So far have not got under to look. A stepper makes sense after reading many posts on locking diff failures. Namely, that they must only be engaged while stopped. Pin engagement rather than any clutch assist mechanism. Anyway, the pin arrangement seems to be common also to the compact class of tractors with many failures. Seems odd none of the "partstree" break downs shows any drawing or part call out, Must get down and dirty to look.
6/25 Remove driver side wheel, roll under , voila, an easy task to see the "electrical thingy" that operates the lever to engage differential lock. That thingy is a liner actuator....fancy name for 12V motor- driven acme screw pushing ram connected to the diff lever. It is mounted kinda loose transversely, The Husq pn is easily visible. (the last favor they do for me on this project). Fussing for a while suggested intermittent dash switch which has proven a problem to locate .Put 12V on thingy and it growled at me so it seems alive. Details to follow..
6/25 Remove driver side wheel, roll under , voila, an easy task to see the "electrical thingy" that operates the lever to engage differential lock. That thingy is a liner actuator....fancy name for 12V motor- driven acme screw pushing ram connected to the diff lever. It is mounted kinda loose transversely, The Husq pn is easily visible. (the last favor they do for me on this project). Fussing for a while suggested intermittent dash switch which has proven a problem to locate .Put 12V on thingy and it growled at me so it seems alive. Details to follow..
#96
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motoman
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motoman
Husqvarna online schematics and the vendor parts lists have not been friendly. The dashboard locker switch does not have a Husq part number on it and pursuit has been tedious. Turns out the switch is a ":Carling" (CT) part, but without a full part number of 14 digits. Searching only the first 4, namely VDD1 only opens up a candy story of possibilities with a risk The switch is a DPDT controlling the locking diff "motor" (schematic symbol), which is really a linear actuator, fancy name for a 12v motor turning an Acme screw with ram attached to the Husqy diff lock lever. Husqy was able to put its part number on the actuator, 584393401 (sorry pic not show it). Online price $227 to $240. The switch is basically a 6 pin with one unused cavity and #7 dedicated to the LED. The 6 pins supply forward and reverse voltage and ground (lock and unlock).
Attached are pics of mating harness, actuator, and an info sheet as requested by Carling. I stumbled on a Carling switch with full part number ID digits: VDD1SWOB-AZS00-0. Anyone curious can find a PDF data sheet online. That part is available at electronics stores $15. Versions of the switch exist without LED and various colors.
Well I am being denied attachments as "too large." Way back I think I would trim pics via paint function. Now?
No response from Carling. Further ref to their data sheet says "VDD1 pn is enough to buy and work. May or not have LED. On order. Boat sites take this sw , put their pn on it and charge $35. Should pay about $12 plus ship/tx.
Attached are pics of mating harness, actuator, and an info sheet as requested by Carling. I stumbled on a Carling switch with full part number ID digits: VDD1SWOB-AZS00-0. Anyone curious can find a PDF data sheet online. That part is available at electronics stores $15. Versions of the switch exist without LED and various colors.
Well I am being denied attachments as "too large." Way back I think I would trim pics via paint function. Now?
No response from Carling. Further ref to their data sheet says "VDD1 pn is enough to buy and work. May or not have LED. On order. Boat sites take this sw , put their pn on it and charge $35. Should pay about $12 plus ship/tx.
#97
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motoman
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motoman
Another oil temp reading @ 180 hrs: ambient 100F, oil temp 249F. Installed the ebay VDD1 switch and locker is working again. The switch was likely damaged when rocker was ripped off by tree branch.. BTW Carling did respond, but not needed as ebay sw was on order.
#98
wrldtvlr
Assuming you are running Windows, I've been using Irfanview for years now. Although it has a lot of functions, resizing is quite easy - selecting Image / Resize from the top menu and then selecting 800x600 seems to be large enough for web viewing with acceptable file size. Another option is the Windows 10 Snipping Tool.
wrldtvlr
Well I am being denied attachments as "too large." Way back I think I would trim pics via paint function. Now?
Assuming you are running Windows, I've been using Irfanview for years now. Although it has a lot of functions, resizing is quite easy - selecting Image / Resize from the top menu and then selecting 800x600 seems to be large enough for web viewing with acceptable file size. Another option is the Windows 10 Snipping Tool.
#99
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gainestruk
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gainestruk
How many hours do you have on it now ?Husqvarna online schematics and the vendor parts lists have not been friendly. The dashboard locker switch does not have a Husq part number on it and pursuit has been tedious. Turns out the switch is a ":Carling" (CT) part, but without a full part number of 14 digits. Searching only the first 4, namely VDD1 only opens up a candy story of possibilities with a risk The switch is a DPDT controlling the locking diff "motor" (schematic symbol), which is really a linear actuator, fancy name for a 12v motor turning an Acme screw with ram attached to the Husqy diff lock lever. Husqy was able to put its part number on the actuator, 584393401 (sorry pic not show it). Online price $227 to $240. The switch is basically a 6 pin with one unused cavity and #7 dedicated to the LED. The 6 pins supply forward and reverse voltage and ground (lock and unlock).
Attached are pics of mating harness, actuator, and an info sheet as requested by Carling. I stumbled on a Carling switch with full part number ID digits: VDD1SWOB-AZS00-0. Anyone curious can find a PDF data sheet online. That part is available at electronics stores $15. Versions of the switch exist without LED and various colors.
Well I am being denied attachments as "too large." Way back I think I would trim pics via paint function. Now?
No response from Carling. Further ref to their data sheet says "VDD1 pn is enough to buy and work. May or not have LED. On order. Boat sites take this sw , put their pn on it and charge $35. Should pay about $12 plus ship/tx.
#100
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motoman
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motoman
Thanks. I will keep that in mind.Assuming you are running Windows, I've been using Irfanview for years now. Although it has a lot of functions, resizing is quite easy - selecting Image / Resize from the top menu and then selecting 800x600 seems to be large enough for web viewing with acceptable file size. Another option is the Windows 10 Snipping Tool.
#101
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motoman
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motoman
180 hrs. Forgot to mention the 249F oil temp in direct sun mowing medium tough 12" weeds for an hour. This engine is very quick to cool compared with my DYT 4000. For instance stopping blades drops oil 4 degrees almost immediately and shade also has an immediate effect, about 5 degrees. Too bad Briggs is going under. They would have fared better with a better rep (more good engines).How many hours do you have on it now ?
#102
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cruzenmike
Hopefully Briggs still continues in the small engine business and only sells off the mower brands and other parts of their business that aren't so profitable. Somebody had to have made some major mistakes to take a 100 year old business under in today's market!
C
cruzenmike
I had an ELS that stayed quite cool but of course I kept the shroud clean, kept up on maintenance and never beat it up. My 18hp Vanguard ran a bit hot but it was running at 3650rpm and powering two hydro pumps and a 3 blade deck. Even with all that it still ran smooth and quiet.180 hrs. Forgot to mention the 249F oil temp in direct sun mowing medium tough 12" weeds for an hour. This engine is very quick to cool compared with my DYT 4000. For instance stopping blades drops oil 4 degrees almost immediately and shade also has an immediate effect, about 5 degrees. Too bad Briggs is going under. They would have fared better with a better rep (more good engines).
Hopefully Briggs still continues in the small engine business and only sells off the mower brands and other parts of their business that aren't so profitable. Somebody had to have made some major mistakes to take a 100 year old business under in today's market!
#103
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motoman
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motoman
Somehow an entry made a while back disappeared . The locking diff stopped responding , and was traced to a bad dash switch. I attempted to upload data on the switch and it seems the whole subject was deleted. If needed I could dig out the data, Husqy had failed to proved a switch part number and no vendors had the part via description. An ebay part solved the problem. Switch is a US source in New England state.
#104
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slomo
slomo
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slomo
Have you changed the oil yet?Backup on this unit requires pressing the proper button on the smart key ignition surround. Then it blinks at you , giving permission so the reverse pedal works. Just now I can simply press the reverse pedal, suggesting that smart key function has stopped working. Tractor one year usage, about 70 hours. Will check if a connector has come loose.
slomo
#107
wrldtvlr
wrldtvlr
I'm starting to see "no maintenance required" gas mowers. I assume marketing thinks saving a few cents on fill and drain plugs can be spun as a positive thing. Presumably they have data that suggests consumers never follow the recommended change interval and the initial oil fill will last 50 or so hours before the engine seizes and the consumer has to buy another unit. Win for everyone! (not). Suspect no maintenance trans axles are the same thinking.As in engine oil?
slomo
#108
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slomo
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slomo
Just another reason for me, to not buy a new machine. They can't improve on the old ones far as I can tell.
slomo
slomo
#109
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motoman
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motoman
The RF wheel fell off today. Sounds bad....gopher holes and ruts finally fatigued and snapped the e clip holding the wheel on. Shaft OD .750, groove .619." Will try the harbor freight assortment box.
7-15-21 My take... factory set up has .100" free clearance between e clip and washer stack holding on the wheel. The wheel came off on a left-leaning slope which loaded up ( perhaps hammered) the e clip for one last time, snapping it off.
I added another .050" washer to the stack. Bought H Frt e clip storehouse , $7 local. That puts the unit cost @ 2 cents, or else $2 and up each plus freight on line. Used the 5/8 e clip. Machine has 202 hours.
7-15-21 My take... factory set up has .100" free clearance between e clip and washer stack holding on the wheel. The wheel came off on a left-leaning slope which loaded up ( perhaps hammered) the e clip for one last time, snapping it off.
I added another .050" washer to the stack. Bought H Frt e clip storehouse , $7 local. That puts the unit cost @ 2 cents, or else $2 and up each plus freight on line. Used the 5/8 e clip. Machine has 202 hours.
#110
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motoman
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motoman
The seat cushion cover has started cracking along an embossed line . No sharp objects in pocket ever. No sun or freezing exposure. Disappointed...my dyt4000 , vintage 2004 with 800 hours still has a perfect seat , no cracks. I see perfect Craftsman used seats on Craigslist for $100.
#111
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motoman
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motoman
Not a reply to seat cover. Over a year ago I attempted to leave info on the failed locker switch which is dash mounted, but it did not show so here is the bare bones info. The switch was damaged by a branch which tore off the (removable) switch top. This switch sends plus or minus current to the linear actuator which engages or disengages the locking feature. No information was found for this Husqy part anywhere so had to dig. The switch is manufacture by Carling , pn 1610R , 20A, 12V, The linear actuator pn is 584393401. Carling is very helpful, and provides a data sheet online ,but will not recognize or confirm the application. The switch is a rocker type , 8 pin with one cavity empty and with index dowel. I found one on ebay for $8. They come in colors , some with led, some without. Worked perfectlyThe seat cushion cover has started cracking along an embossed line . No sharp objects in pocket ever. No sun or freezing exposure. Disappointed...my dyt4000 , vintage 2004 with 800 hours still has a perfect seat , no cracks. I see perfect Craftsman used seats on Craigslist for $100.
#112
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motoman
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motoman
The starter engagement "jamming" has apparently stopped @ 232 hours. As noted earlier it reminded me of British cars I once owned. The sensation was that the starter solenoid was stuck "on" and therefore annoying. The problem can be caused by incorrect engagement of starter drive gear vs flywheel gear. Too tight and/or improper gear tooth profile(s) , but a quality problem. The flywheel gear probably machines a clearance on the starter gear. I should have "blued" and read the problem, but taking out the starter is not so easy multiplied by laziness. Otherwise mower is running cool and well, the locker freeing me from ruts and mole mounds.
#113
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motoman
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motoman
Pulling empty recycle bin in my toy trailer, 37F, slushy road, locker switch engaged, one wheel on pavement, the other on packed slush, slight grade. Suddenly "click," and no drive. Cycled disengagement "wire," nothing. Cycled electric dash locker switch. Nothing. Next scene pulling machine with car up slight grade and into shelter. Grunt grunt, 800 lb beast. No attempt yet to diagnose. The tractor has never pushed snow and only used locker to evade mud holes. I am hoping (somehow, Murphy) that this is some "minor" linkage problem and not fatique/snap of axle shaft which would be a great disappointment. Please chime in with theory.....ha ha ha (always wait 5 sec after actuating locker switch)
Later. I reread my bloated thread and see a warning about a shear pin weakness on the locker engagement drive. RATS if I have to go in when I have babied this thing. (Probably due to OCD gear oil change when not really necessary)
3/13/23 I am too wimpy to get under the Husqy for initial look (37F, no heat). Prolonged search does not reveal any obvious, or named " shear pins" in rebuild kits or in several (long) youtube K66 rebuild videos. Perhaps something upstream. Any ideas?
Later. I reread my bloated thread and see a warning about a shear pin weakness on the locker engagement drive. RATS if I have to go in when I have babied this thing. (Probably due to OCD gear oil change when not really necessary)
3/13/23 I am too wimpy to get under the Husqy for initial look (37F, no heat). Prolonged search does not reveal any obvious, or named " shear pins" in rebuild kits or in several (long) youtube K66 rebuild videos. Perhaps something upstream. Any ideas?
#114
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motoman
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motoman
Pulling empty recycle bin in my toy trailer, 37F, slushy road, locker switch engaged, one wheel on pavement, the other on packed slush, slight grade. Suddenly "click," and no drive. Cycled disengagement "wire," nothing. Cycled electric dash locker switch. Nothing. Next scene pulling machine with car up slight grade and into shelter. Grunt grunt, 800 lb beast. No attempt yet to diagnose. The tractor has never pushed snow and only used locker to evade mud holes. I am hoping (somehow, Murphy) that this is some "minor" linkage problem and not fatique/snap of axle shaft which would be a great disappointment. Please chime in with theory.....ha ha ha (always wait 5 sec after actuating locker switch)
Later. I reread my bloated thread and see a warning about a shear pin weakness on the locker engagement drive. RATS if I have to go in when I have babied this thing. (Probably due to OCD gear oil change when not really necessary)
3/13/23 I am too wimpy to get under the Husqy for initial look (37F, no heat). Prolonged search does not reveal any obvious, or named " shear pins" in rebuild kits or in several (long) youtube K66 rebuild videos. Perhaps something upstream. Any ideas?
#115
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motoman
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motoman
Finally laid down on cold cement and removed tranny. Pictures . Earlier statement that drain/refill impossible without tranny removal FALSE. Once locker actuator is removed a whole new view /access is revealed of the fill plug (2 drain plugs on bottom easy).
Surprise so far . No metal chips, teeth, broken shafts or pins. Moderate metal powder slime on magnets.
Filter could use a changeout. The rumored shear pin is not to be found. Axle keys good.
The "click" noise was definite so must look further. Probably into "motor" and "pump." ANY TIPS OUT THERE APPRECIATED.
NUTS files too large . Cannot upload. Must refresh on how to reduce. Paint function?
5/6 Only one magnet
Surprise so far . No metal chips, teeth, broken shafts or pins. Moderate metal powder slime on magnets.
Filter could use a changeout. The rumored shear pin is not to be found. Axle keys good.
The "click" noise was definite so must look further. Probably into "motor" and "pump." ANY TIPS OUT THERE APPRECIATED.
NUTS files too large . Cannot upload. Must refresh on how to reduce. Paint function?
5/6 Only one magnet
#116
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motoman
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motoman
Finally laid down on cold cement and removed tranny. Pictures . Earlier statement that drain/refill impossible without tranny removal FALSE. Once locker actuator is removed a whole new view /access is revealed of the fill plug (2 drain plugs on bottom easy).
Surprise so far . No metal chips, teeth, broken shafts or pins. Moderate metal powder slime on magnets.
Filter could use a changeout. The rumored shear pin is not to be found. Axle keys good.
The "click" noise was definite so must look further. Probably into "motor" and "pump." ANY TIPS OUT THERE APPRECIATED.
NUTS files too large . Cannot upload. Must refresh on how to reduce. Paint function?
#117
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motoman
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motoman
The photos went onto a different forum. Tired fighting the restriction here. K66 back together with no problem found. Serious doubt about the carling locker switch. The orig failed after tree branch incident. The replacement is failed after little usage. Dissection does not show any arcing ,pitting of contacts. This switch is $50 from dealer, $25 online . Will try 6 contact rocker widely available @ $10. The 7th pin is an option led, and the 8th is unused. Carling data sheet shows 100,000 actuations expected...that must be without current flowing IMO.
#118
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motoman
Edit of 4/24 The Carling 6 contact switch plugs into the female harness plug . Have not applied voltage yet.
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motoman
The 6 pin on-off-on rocker (IT-$10) requires an adapter harness bcause the bottomside contacts do not match the female harness plug "amp-packard" (carling). So it is cheaper to buy, but requires a little work. It will control the diff actuator. Also found a Carling VDD1 -6 contact switch ($12) which should fit, but without the LED (# 7 connector contact). Number 8 connector contact cavity is unused in orig.The photos went onto a different forum. Tired fighting the restriction here. K66 back together with no problem found. Serious doubt about the carling locker switch. The orig failed after tree branch incident. The replacement is failed after little usage. Dissection does not show any arcing ,pitting of contacts. This switch is $50 from dealer, $25 online . Will try 6 contact rocker widely available @ $10. The 7th pin is an option led, and the 8th is unused. Carling data sheet shows 100,000 actuations expected...that must be without current flowing IMO.
Edit of 4/24 The Carling 6 contact switch plugs into the female harness plug . Have not applied voltage yet.
#119
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motoman
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motoman
The mettalic sound was a broken drive belt. The tranny was like new and is installed again. The drive belt is the worst issue ever with this machine . The broken belt was pulled out without noting the routing and this has become a time wasting operation because neither the owners manual or parts list is accurate. Many pics posted on another forum. The drive belt confusion seems to be a generic issue with other Husky models. I was lucky for the belt to last 250 hours. If this all sounds strange...yes, a drive belt should just go on with "some" effort, but not this one. "Discovery" is left up to the owner as to installing the belt on the engine, and how to fit the belt over the tranny fan where there is insufficient clarance for the belt to loop over the fan shaft tip. Issues that should never happen. This situation is reducing the satisfacton level.
#120
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motoman
edit 4/28 Running well . A new 6 pin carling sw will not turn on the locker. It may be a harness problem This sw problem is chronic. Considering switch relocation to right side cup holder area with another 6 pin sw.
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motoman
The belt was rerouted and seems proper, but have not run yet. Now that it has been done 4 or 5 times a few comments ...If no note of the proper belt routing has been made ( as in "pulled out broken") the owners manual is a deficient guide. (1) The diagram of belt installation shows the narrow portion of the belt loop passing to engine as right of steering shaft. This is not the correct view as looking down from the driver seat (call it engine-oil- filter- side), but I started with it and found it wrong; that path is congested and the belt cannot fit on the 3 middle pulleys. The parts list diagram of the belt is correct -should pass on left side. (2) The owners manual instruction is silent on the engine pulley retainer which is secured with two 9/16" capscrews, nor does the parts list show it. The belt cannot be removed until the retainer is loosened . Turn the tractor wheels one way and another and 2 "secret" access holes will appear thru which a socket extension can be inserted to loosen. (3) In back the fan diameter is too large to loop the belt over onto the pulley, and the fan shaft tip is too close to the bottom of the gas tank for the belt to pass over. Loosen 9 bolts to allow the tranny to sag (4 axle, 1 locker actuator side -flanged- support passing under axle, 4 front tranny mount to frame). Then bend a hook from heavy wire and reach thru slit in rear frame panel. Fuss and pull (still not easy). Now hook belt on far side (you are working from "oil-filter" side) of fan over one blade and rotate fan...repeat as in bicylcle chain maneuver. There is not enough slack to complete fan exercise with belt on engine pulley. After a long, self-imposed learnng curve , this belt replacement is probably now a half day job. It "might" be done without completely removing the deck. By only removing the front "yoke" to allow the belt onto the engine pulley. All this a bit inconvenient, no?The mettalic sound was a broken drive belt. The tranny was like new and is installed again. The drive belt is the worst issue ever with this machine . The broken belt was pulled out without noting the routing and this has become a time wasting operation because neither the owners manual or parts list is accurate. Many pics posted on another forum. The drive belt confusion seems to be a generic issue with other Husky models. I was lucky for the belt to last 250 hours. If this all sounds strange...yes, a drive belt should just go on with "some" effort, but not this one. "Discovery" is left up to the owner as to installing the belt on the engine, and how to fit the belt over the tranny fan where there is insufficient clarance for the belt to loop over the fan shaft tip. Issues that should never happen. This situation is reducing the satisfacton level.
edit 4/28 Running well . A new 6 pin carling sw will not turn on the locker. It may be a harness problem This sw problem is chronic. Considering switch relocation to right side cup holder area with another 6 pin sw.
#121
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Oldaarpy
O
Oldaarpy
Motorman, just getting back on here again, finally, and am wondering if it was ever decided if the tranny oil needed to be changed or/and if it was sealed. Last time I mowed with my GT52XLSi it almost stopped going up a hill, trying it later it acted like it wanted to and finally went up. Reverse worked fine. I'm thinking drive belt, tranny oil or (hopefully) adjustment. Anyone have any thoughts. If it ever stops raining here in PA I'll see if my 73 yr old bones will allow me to crawl under it.
#122
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motoman
n be alleviated by rolling around on the cold ground-a kind of TLC yoga--)
-Motorman, just getting back on here again, finally, and am wondering if it was ever decided if the tranny oil needed to be changed or/and if it was sealed. Last time I mowed with my GT52XLSi it almost stopped going up a hill, trying it later it acted like it wanted to and finally went up. Reverse worked fine. I'm thinking drive belt, tranny oil or (hopefully) adjustment. Anyone have any thoughts. If it ever stops raining here in PA I'll see if my 73 yr old bones will allow me to crawl under it.
M
motoman
Well, received wisdom is that it should not need changng. Overly cautious , with too much spare time , went ahead @ 50 hours by pulling tranny, and found only slightly discolored oil. And now, @ 250 hours, failing miserably to diagnose a broken drive belt , went inside and found about what I had before-nothing. Counterpoint is lots of you tube machines with high mileage slipping on hills and not responding well to throttle. And after replacement kits the machines seemingly running well. (One person "sanded" a better surface finish on the pump shaft surfaces...). My machine has not been used hard. I think heavy loads and/or overheating probably would cause more wear. I have a dyt4000 with 700 hours still running well without change. (BTW pain with age caMotorman, just getting back on here again, finally, and am wondering if it was ever decided if the tranny oil needed to be changed or/and if it was sealed. Last time I mowed with my GT52XLSi it almost stopped going up a hill, trying it later it acted like it wanted to and finally went up. Reverse worked fine. I'm thinking drive belt, tranny oil or (hopefully) adjustment. Anyone have any thoughts. If it ever stops raining here in PA I'll see if my 73 yr old bones will allow me to crawl under it.
n be alleviated by rolling around on the cold ground-a kind of TLC yoga--)-Motorman, just getting back on here again, finally, and am wondering if it was ever decided if the tranny oil needed to be changed or/and if it was sealed. Last time I mowed with my GT52XLSi it almost stopped going up a hill, trying it later it acted like it wanted to and finally went up. Reverse worked fine. I'm thinking drive belt, tranny oil or (hopefully) adjustment. Anyone have any thoughts. If it ever stops raining here in PA I'll see if my 73 yr old bones will allow me to crawl under it.
#124
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Oldaarpy
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Oldaarpy
Mowed yesterday. The tractor acted like it was going to start slipping making the first pass up the hill. The second pass was a little better and by the third pass it acted fine. I suspect if something was causing the slippage it dislodged itself. (KOW). I should probably change the belt anyway but why 'fix' what works?
#125
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motoman
(Just reread your symptoms) The youtube touches briefly on slipping. It appears that the pump (hope this name is right) and its mating surface rely on perfect, smooth interface to generate power. So replacement there is common. Perhaps the improvement you felt was warm-up and/or full circulation of oil after prolonged shut-down.
M
motoman
Tuff torq, the tranny mfgr , sells a series of parts and repair kits. One is the slider kit which probably includes the pins and associated slider gear which engages with the "bull gear's" center differential gears and opposite axle shaft. It is around $350 and seems reasonable. There is very little info I could find about reliability and so I over reacted. Husqvarna's manual only says stop before engaging the locker. After seeing how it's made I could see how damage might occur with repeated engagement attempts while under power. The pins probably want full engagement before a load is applied to avoid wear or chipping. I am relocating the dash switch to get it away from the engine vibes and dirt. The engagement of the actuator takes a few seconds and has been difficult to confirm over the noise of the exhaust. And the switch power seems to be fed only with engine running. Maybe the relocation and "always hot" (12v) hookup will be good -engage with engine off. (I overshot your question, but try to put out info that may be helpful)Thanks for the response. What are you calling a "replacement kit"?
(Just reread your symptoms) The youtube touches briefly on slipping. It appears that the pump (hope this name is right) and its mating surface rely on perfect, smooth interface to generate power. So replacement there is common. Perhaps the improvement you felt was warm-up and/or full circulation of oil after prolonged shut-down.
#126
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Oldaarpy
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Oldaarpy
To change the subject for a second....is there any way to get away from the smart ignition button and put in a keyed switch? I may have asked this before....
#127
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Oldaarpy
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Oldaarpy
The mower has always been a dog going up hills....and I have hills. Before it started acting up I was mowing an area that is always wet and muddy. Because I run ag tires and chains year round, and they throw mud like it's a professional sporting event, I'm thinking mud got on something and had to work its way off.Tuff torq, the tranny mfgr , sells a series of parts and repair kits. One is the slider kit which probably includes the pins and associated slider gear which engages with the "bull gear's" center differential gears and opposite axle shaft. It is around $350 and seems reasonable. There is very little info I could find about reliability and so I over reacted. Husqvarna's manual only says stop before engaging the locker. After seeing how it's made I could see how damage might occur with repeated engagement attempts while under power. The pins probably want full engagement before a load is applied to avoid wear or chipping. I am relocating the dash switch to get it away from the engine vibes and dirt. The engagement of the actuator takes a few seconds and has been difficult to confirm over the noise of the exhaust. And the switch power seems to be fed only with engine running. Maybe the relocation and "always hot" (12v) hookup will be good -engage with engine off. (I overshot your question, but try to put out info that may be helpful)
(Just reread your symptoms) The youtube touches briefly on slipping. It appears that the pump (hope this name is right) and its mating surface rely on perfect, smooth interface to generate power. So replacement there is common. Perhaps the improvement you felt was warm-up and/or full circulation of oil after prolonged shut-down.
#128
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bertsmobile1
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bertsmobile1
Smart ( dumb) switches were only used for a few years and then discontinued due to service & warranty problems.
So the easy way is to check your mower models parts diagrams on some thing like Parts Tree.
IT should list all of the same model number ( the one on the hood decal )
Check them all for the last one that used a key or the first one that used a key after the smart switch was discontinued
Order that loom and key switch
So the easy way is to check your mower models parts diagrams on some thing like Parts Tree.
IT should list all of the same model number ( the one on the hood decal )
Check them all for the last one that used a key or the first one that used a key after the smart switch was discontinued
Order that loom and key switch
#129
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motoman
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motoman
A while back I suspected a problem and looked on line. The smart switch was suspect by many. (I am afraid to state the following) My problem was not the switch. At the time seems like the sw was over $ 200 except for Chinese knock offs (the oem is probably Chinese - They "can" do a good job on electrical stuff IMO, but here I do not know.) I am gentle with the "finger poke" code input, and keep finger nail trimmed. It is scary to consider rewire to tradtional key.Smart ( dumb) switches were only used for a few years and then discontinued due to service & warranty problems.
So the easy way is to check your mower models parts diagrams on some thing like Parts Tree.
IT should list all of the same model number ( the one on the hood decal )
Check them all for the last one that used a key or the first one that used a key after the smart switch was discontinued
Order that loom and key switch
#130
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Actually it is quite easy because all of the other parts are the same .
The first models just used a pigtail to connect the new switch to the old loom .
Next year they used a new loom but again the only different thing is the connection to the switch
The latter looms have things like a 2 pin plug for the brake switch because they don't use the other 2 prongs that were part of the cranking power circuit .
Once you have found the correct lom it is about 1 hour to run the new wires .
Some will need the mounting hole modified, some do not .
The first models just used a pigtail to connect the new switch to the old loom .
Next year they used a new loom but again the only different thing is the connection to the switch
The latter looms have things like a 2 pin plug for the brake switch because they don't use the other 2 prongs that were part of the cranking power circuit .
Once you have found the correct lom it is about 1 hour to run the new wires .
Some will need the mounting hole modified, some do not .
#131
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motoman
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motoman
That is good to know. I wonder how many owners are down because of this switch?Actually it is quite easy because all of the other parts are the same .
The first models just used a pigtail to connect the new switch to the old loom .
Next year they used a new loom but again the only different thing is the connection to the switch
The latter looms have things like a 2 pin plug for the brake switch because they don't use the other 2 prongs that were part of the cranking power circuit .
Once you have found the correct lom it is about 1 hour to run the new wires .
Some will need the mounting hole modified, some do not .
#132
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bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Lots never made it out of warranty which is why they reverted to the key switch after around 3 years
I replace 1 or 2 switches every year and do about the same number of conversions
I make sure the costs are about the same either way to encourage replacing the switch with a key which is better for the customer in the long run.
Just make sure you get the correct key switch for your mower which s why tou need to check the switch that was used before the stupid switch and after the stupid switch.
Usually they are the same part number but some times the MIR system changed to a key switch control .
I replace 1 or 2 switches every year and do about the same number of conversions
I make sure the costs are about the same either way to encourage replacing the switch with a key which is better for the customer in the long run.
Just make sure you get the correct key switch for your mower which s why tou need to check the switch that was used before the stupid switch and after the stupid switch.
Usually they are the same part number but some times the MIR system changed to a key switch control .
#133
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motoman
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motoman
Good info...and now more blather...My 'chine cost $3K new which seems down from orig sticker of $5K. The online cost of the locker now ranges $1800-$2000 , with one repair vendor in WI soliciting "freight in" and will quote to repair a unit. What brands besides Husq and Deere use it? At purchase this unit seemed to fill the gap between riders and compact tractors. It is a gas hog and I do not really need the heavy , welded, armor plated deck. If a "bargain" unit is found with tranny problem,AND you are handy , the tranny is not difficult to repair.Lots never made it out of warranty which is why they reverted to the key switch after around 3 years
I replace 1 or 2 switches every year and do about the same number of conversions
I make sure the costs are about the same either way to encourage replacing the switch with a key which is better for the customer in the long run.
Just make sure you get the correct key switch for your mower which s why tou need to check the switch that was used before the stupid switch and after the stupid switch.
Usually they are the same part number but some times the MIR system changed to a key switch control .
#134
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Oldaarpy
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Oldaarpy
Yikes! I don't even know what a loom is! Can a dealer do this....and any ballpark figure on cost?Actually it is quite easy because all of the other parts are the same .
The first models just used a pigtail to connect the new switch to the old loom .
Next year they used a new loom but again the only different thing is the connection to the switch
The latter looms have things like a 2 pin plug for the brake switch because they don't use the other 2 prongs that were part of the cranking power circuit .
Once you have found the correct lom it is about 1 hour to run the new wires .
Some will need the mounting hole modified, some do not .
#135
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bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Yes and no idea I am in Australia
Take it to an off brand shop because a lot of franchise contracts would prevent the tech doing this.
A loom is simply the name for the wires and it is just a matter of unplugging one & plugging in the other
Take it to an off brand shop because a lot of franchise contracts would prevent the tech doing this.
A loom is simply the name for the wires and it is just a matter of unplugging one & plugging in the other
#136
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motoman
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motoman
The new locker switch is in and working in the rt side coffee cup cavity. It is a simple on-off-on motor switch DPDT, $6, but to use it requires jumpering diagonally across the switch for 12v and ground. It is ac rated which means it may be less "robust" than dc - rated , but not worried based on unreliability of $ 50 VDD1 sw's. The Deutsch connector pins demand a dedicated crimp tool which I did not have . Lot's of labor here . Re non-conductive film on switch contacts...I always blasted 100 psi air under cowl to clean off dust...hmm perhaps driving dust into harness and sw openings?
For arpy- plenty of new smart sw's online around $270. It may be an even cost trade off between "trying" another smart switch and going "dumb switch" if you do not have experience with harness, etc. There are "pigtail" harnesses shown on several parts stores for GT 48 and GT 52 models (are they the correct ones?), but finding anyone to make the conversion might be difficult ,and shop rates could quickly equal or exceed the cost of a replacemnt smart switch...a fraught decision.
For arpy- plenty of new smart sw's online around $270. It may be an even cost trade off between "trying" another smart switch and going "dumb switch" if you do not have experience with harness, etc. There are "pigtail" harnesses shown on several parts stores for GT 48 and GT 52 models (are they the correct ones?), but finding anyone to make the conversion might be difficult ,and shop rates could quickly equal or exceed the cost of a replacemnt smart switch...a fraught decision.
#137
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Oldaarpy
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Oldaarpy
I bought my tractor in '15 and I believe it was a '14 model. The smart switch quit one month before the warranty ran out and the dealer honored the warranty. I think the cost for the stinking thing was around $100 back then and thank goodness it's been fine since (KOW). Hard to believe the price of them now! I know it's just waiting to conk out!The new locker switch is in and working in the rt side coffee cup cavity. It is a simple on-off-on motor switch DPDT, $6, but to use it requires jumpering diagonally across the switch for 12v and ground. It is ac rated which means it may be less "robust" than dc - rated , but not worried based on unreliability of $ 50 VDD1 sw's. The Deutsch connector pins demand a dedicated crimp tool which I did not have . Lot's of labor here . Re non-conductive film on switch contacts...I always blasted 100 psi air under cowl to clean off dust...hmm perhaps driving dust into harness and sw openings?
For arpy- plenty of new smart sw's online around $270. It may be an even cost trade off between "trying" another smart switch and going "dumb switch" if you do not have experience with harness, etc. There are "pigtail" harnesses shown on several parts stores for GT 48 and GT 52 models (are they the correct ones?), but finding anyone to make the conversion might be difficult ,and shop rates could quickly equal or exceed the cost of a replacemnt smart switch...a fraught decision.
#138
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motoman
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motoman
Guess I have been lucky.I bought my tractor in '15 and I believe it was a '14 model. The smart switch quit one month before the warranty ran out and the dealer honored the warranty. I think the cost for the stinking thing was around $100 back then and thank goodness it's been fine since (KOW). Hard to believe the price of them now! I know it's just waiting to conk out!
#139
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motoman
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motoman
First replacement of deck (blade) belt . Lots of China replacements on line from $19. Bought $75 oem from same source as ground drive belt previously replaced. Noticed neighbor has Husky mower similar to mine on flatbed haul out. Likely costly repair or even maintenace. I feel for those who cannot fix.
#140
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motoman
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motoman
Just as with the ground drive belt this deck belt a PIA for me. It is in and works well, but (surprise) the owners manual instruction of 3/8 breaker bar to relieve idler pulley tension did not work (for me). The new oem belt is very stiff and with deck in lowered position some slack is lost. A second set of hands might help or overnite stretching . Even a 1/2 breaker with pipe extension did not allow final pulley engagement. Finally , installed belt with no spring , loosened spring-coupled tension bolt down to last 5 threads in locking nut , fished through its hole, then used a heavy gage wire hook to pull the spring onto the banjo portion of special bolt. Then the nut is tightened to its original position, in this case .887" of exposed threads. A fix would be find a similar grade 5 bolt with enough threads to extend the adjustment another 1/2." This would call for drillling this new bolt head or its shaft with a hole to accommodate the spring hook diameter or to ? weld? This "simple" belt task probably defeats many owners.First replacement of deck (blade) belt . Lots of China replacements on line from $19. Bought $75 oem from same source as ground drive belt previously replaced. Noticed neighbor has Husky mower similar to mine on flatbed haul out. Likely costly repair or even maintenace. I feel for those who cannot fix.
#141
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motoman
M
motoman
Just as with the ground drive belt this deck belt a PIA for me. It is in and works well, but (surprise) the owners manual instruction of 3/8 breaker bar to relieve idler pulley tension did not work (for me). The new oem belt is very stiff and with deck in lowered position some slack is lost. A second set of hands might help or overnite stretching . Even a 1/2 breaker with pipe extension did not allow final pulley engagement. Finally , installed belt with no spring , loosened spring-coupled tension bolt down to last 5 threads in locking nut , fished through its hole, then used a heavy gage wire hook to pull the spring onto the banjo portion of special bolt. Then the nut is tightened to its original position, in this case .887" of exposed threads. A fix would be find a similar grade 5 bolt with enough threads to extend the adjustment another 1/2." This would call for drillling this new bolt head or its shaft with a hole to accommodate the spring hook diameter or to ? weld? This "simple" belt task probably defeats many owners.