Impressions: newGT48XLSi

[motoman]

Ken, It would be interesting to read your summary of actual and likely design changes to Intek engines. "Little things" do make a difference in output as we know from hotrodding, but I do not think little things can change hot oil temps. Seems like it would take more, and so the real proof of "apparent" improvement in the Husqy will have to wait on some real work.

One other thing. The Husqy Intek likes to run wide open to cool its oil, but I never found that with the dyt4000. The oil flow in the Husky seems to pass oil over a cooler place where it drops some heat. The reaction is about 1 minute. I do not know if that could just be the fan effect. The dyt Intek reacts also, but it has the cooler/fan. Can you relate any of this to diesel trucks we hear idling at truck stops while their drivers take a break? The dyt cooled best at idle , hood up, fan on, and very quickly.

Incidentally, with my pseudo-science one question is accuracy of gauges. I had refereed the Beedee analog gauge with my KE temp coupler and did find the Beedee a little high (10-15Degrees) at 300F. I have not checked the Depo. motoman

 

[motoman]

I have been reading about the grass collector system for the Husqy and the eye-watering price, ?$1000. Someone said another pulley driven fan is added, etc, etc. No wonder the dealer did not elaborate when I plunked down the tractor money. If anyone has solved this for a sane price it would be good to hear. In a couple weeks I will be buried in leaves . That was one thing the dyt4000 did well , fill the 3 bins with dry or freeze-dry leaves. Guess I will have to fix the Intek.

 

[motoman]

The dash ammeter and hour meter gauge hole sizes are 52 mm which is one standard . For anyone interested a typical probe is 1/8 NPT which can run inside an oil drain plug. Lowes still sells a nice brass adaptor to fit the Intek sump with a 1/8
NPT threaded hole in the center. I am running both these without tape. The oil plug hex size is smaller so there is no problem fouling the frame. Old Lowes pn BF-776NL, new pn A-776 110.

 

[ken_clifton]

Motoman,
Just curious, where is your probe fitted? I assume it is in the sump. As you probably remember mine is in the oil line right before the remote oil filter.

I am sure there is all kinds of room for variance. I was careful when measuring my boiler gauge probe to be sure about 1/8 in of the probe was actually in the oil flow -- it is in the top of a 3/8 NPT tee right before the filter.

I wish that I had an IR heat gauge to read the temp on the output of the oil cooler. The delta between input and output would be interesting. My first thought is something in the sump where all the oil is sitting might be more accurate, but then again, my lines are 1/2 inch and there is a whole lot of flow there...

I guess the only way to compare apples to apples would be to fit a gauge in the same spot as yours...

ken_clifton

 

[motoman]

The probe is in the sump drain plug at the right side of the pan. When screwed in about 1/8" of the probe tip protrudes beyond the plug. So the oil temp depends upon a full sump plus sloshing. With this set up the sense wire (s) must be disconnected to drain oil. This setup uses two wires. I took an HF socket and cut a slot on the side for the pig tail when torqueing the plug in or out. I looked around for another place, but felt the pan was too thin to create a hole. BTW yesterday I again observed a 5 degree rise in temp after shutting off-a heat soak.

You probably know some relatively cheap DVMs have a KE temp function. The lead tip is a fused ball of two wires which react to temp. Very accurate, but not easy to use as the tiny ball tip is fragile and must be held
on the surface to measure. That is how I will measre the K 66 case temp one day soon.

 

[motoman]

Located a 90 deg slip- on grease nipple and was able to grease the middle pulley zerk. If you have big hands forget it. First attempt could not hold nipple on square and missed. Second attempt ok. Unlike the dyt 4000 where I sneaked through the left side over the deck, the Husqy was reversed ; over the right side of the deck with my lever gun laying on the deck. Mostly by feel. It is tempting to plot an access hole through the floor board (sheet metal). With a strong light looking down from the steering shaft it looks like it might be possible with an extra long grease hose to lube from a hunched position, instead of lying flat out. An air gease gun would make things easier. If anyone has a solution to this PIA, please advise.

 

[motoman]

Last update until warm weather and heavy work. (I don't have a blade for snow, but considering it). The dash now includes an oil pressure gauge...

On the (sick) dyt 4000 I put on a mechanical oil pressure gauge with a nylon line, but it kept blowing at the filter fitting. Then I went electric . It was 4 times the cost with the sender but promised a lot and delivered leak free for a number of years. But in the last couple years it started periods of erratic fluttering after hard, hot use with rough terrain...So....

I put on a mechanical gauge , but this time with copper line. I have read it will break so I put in gentle service loops and two rubber stabilizers for vibration damping. The connection at the filter port and the gauge have brass compression rings. You cannot reuse old compression rings. To avoid paying for a whole kit I was able to buy bulk 1/8" line at an auto store and found an on- line source for round compression rings (vs the pointy style). By adding a little washer on top of the ring , the screw caps seemed to lock the lines. We will see.

The dash had an imprinted cutout on left side above the cigarette lighter (reserved for the Brits?). The gauge is a push fit there and visible through the steering wheel spoke cutout. So...ammeter regular place, oil temp gauge to its right, time meter sheltered inside the cowl.

Reading with 5W 30, hot idle about 20 psi, full throttle 40 psi.

 

[motoman]

I know I said enough, but a couple items.

The 60 page download of the manual mentioned earlier can be reduced by stopping at the English portion.

Sighting gas level is easier from the rear of the tractor if it has about a gallon or more. You can see it in the top of the tank just under the seat.

The tractor now has about 15 hours.

A quick description of the oil pressure take-off from the filter casting: To avoid a 180 degree reversal of the line toward the dash I used some brass fittings from Lowes-all 1/8 NPT. On the dyt 4000 I feel the reversal loop of the nylon line stressed the compression joint and contributed to leakage and separation. Anyway starting at the foward-facing 1/8 plug . You must remove the oil filter to gain working room. Remove the plug. Use a 90 deg 1/8 male/female and tighten it so the female is facing outward (parallel to the filter). Get a 1/8 male/male "nipple" (small pipe actually) about 3" long. This will extend out far enough to drop the line routing below the filter. Another 1/8 female/female fitting pointing slightly down will accept the compression fitting, and allow the copper line to be routed along the frame and then up to the dash. I did have to relieve the plastic dash cover near the frame for line clearance. (Using an oil cooler "sandwich" avoids this exercise as it will have a dash-pointed port to use).

The starter is jamming on startup when cold. It feels like the primitive British cars I used to own. Stopping the crank unlocks the jammed condition. I may have to go in on this. I am way too far from the dealer I purchased from and the local one is doubtful. Neither do I have a truck. No jamming when hot. Tooth engagement? Solenoid? You comments or experience appreciated.

 

[motoman]

Ole Red Craftsman DYT 4000 is running again. Took 24 hours labor, mostly cleaning oil sludge off the heat shields behind the carb and the vertical surface of the sump. Before removing head #l 1 took compression reading. Both 130 cold, but after running engine about 5 minutes with cyl #1 hitting I took another compression reading and # 1 had dropped 10 psi while #2 was still at 130. With that and the sludge from the cyl 1 area I decided to look at the head gasket. No obvious track, but a dark crosshatch on the cylinder and head towards the exhaust side . No dark oil in the pushrod tunnels. After reassembly no life at all in cyl #1 which was not highly motivating. This time cyl #1 would not even start, Swapped plugs , no. Checked spark at #1, none. So spark became suspect. Removed shroud and looked at #1 spark unit. Looked like the leading side was gapped , and yes sitting at.020." Reduced to .010"and fired up!! Was gasket necessary? Unknown, but had it on hand and what a mess that oil sludge was. Now I can pick up some leaves!

 

[ken_clifton]

Glad you got it going again Motoman. The area you mention with the oil sludge is in close proximity to the crankcase breather on the Intek. I replaced my PCV/breather when I had the carb, intake and airbox off.

The manual says that the flywheel needs to be pulled, but that was not necessary. The reason I replaced the PCV/Breather is the rubber hose that comes out the top and then turns 90 degrees into the airbox was leaking oil. The PCV/breather checked out okay, but the rubber hose gets a lot of vibration causing the rubber to metal joint to become worn and loose. It has been dry ever since -- just fyi.

Best,
ken_clifton