Ignition coil

Just recently brought some heat shrink butt connector off Amazon. They were be for 22-16 gauge wires. Well they won't even hold 16 ga wires even after I modified my crimpers. A total waste of my time and money. Going back the HF ones that actually work as intended.
 
Don't know where you want to go but I can tell you what I would do next for what it's worth. It seems like it could be a timing issue and since the flywheel key is good, valve timing or a bad SAM would be what I would check next. Since you probably don't have a SAM tester I'd start with the possibility of valve timing being off. This is why I asked if there were any signs of the engine ever being over heated. If you over heat a Command Twin, it can cause the gear on the crankshaft to expand and that can let the crankshaft turn inside that gear causing the valves to be out of time with the pistons. To check for signs of over heating I'd remove one or both of the rocker covers and look at the area of the head between the valve springs. If the engine has been run clean and cool any discoloration cause by oil should be fairly light brown to a golden color. If the engine has been over heated that area will probably be very dark brown and thicker than just a film. The rocker arms could also be dark in color. If you do decide to remove the rocker covers and find it very dark inside the next thing would be to check valve overlap to see if the valves are out of time. There is no other way to check valve timing on a Command Twin. If you get to that point and find you want to check valve overlap let me know and I can walk you through how to do that if you don't know.
 
VegetiveSteam said:
Don't know where you want to go but I can tell you what I would do next for what it's worth. It seems like it could be a timing issue and since the flywheel key is good, valve timing or a bad SAM would be what I would check next. Since you probably don't have a SAM tester I'd start with the possibility of valve timing being off. This is why I asked if there were any signs of the engine ever being over heated. If you over heat a Command Twin, it can cause the gear on the crankshaft to expand and that can let the crankshaft turn inside that gear causing the valves to be out of time with the pistons. To check for signs of over heating I'd remove one or both of the rocker covers and look at the area of the head between the valve springs. If the engine has been run clean and cool any discoloration cause by oil should be fairly light brown to a golden color. If the engine has been over heated that area will probably be very dark brown and thicker than just a film. The rocker arms could also be dark in color. If you do decide to remove the rocker covers and find it very dark inside the next thing would be to check valve overlap to see if the valves are out of time. There is no other way to check valve timing on a Command Twin. If you get to that point and find you want to check valve overlap let me know and I can walk you through how to do that if you don't know.
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Ok I will take valve covers off and check that out
 
VegetiveSteam said:
Don't know where you want to go but I can tell you what I would do next for what it's worth. It seems like it could be a timing issue and since the flywheel key is good, valve timing or a bad SAM would be what I would check next. Since you probably don't have a SAM tester I'd start with the possibility of valve timing being off. This is why I asked if there were any signs of the engine ever being over heated. If you over heat a Command Twin, it can cause the gear on the crankshaft to expand and that can let the crankshaft turn inside that gear causing the valves to be out of time with the pistons. To check for signs of over heating I'd remove one or both of the rocker covers and look at the area of the head between the valve springs. If the engine has been run clean and cool any discoloration cause by oil should be fairly light brown to a golden color. If the engine has been over heated that area will probably be very dark brown and thicker than just a film. The rocker arms could also be dark in color. If you do decide to remove the rocker covers and find it very dark inside the next thing would be to check valve overlap to see if the valves are out of time. There is no other way to check valve timing on a Command Twin. If you get to that point and find you want to check valve overlap let me know and I can walk you through how to do that if you don't know.
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What is SAM is that the ignition part that is impossible to find?
 
stevieb50 said:
What is SAM is that the ignition part that is impossible to find?
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Yes. That is the Spark Advance Module. One thing to check with the SAM. If you can loosen it enough, turn it over and inspect the epoxy potting material on the back for any signs of cracks. If that material cracks, it lets in moisture and that would likely cause it to no longer work properly.

There is a conversion kit that would eliminate the SAM. It comes with two new ignition modules and a new flywheel. The timing is different so the modules you just bought would become useless to you. The kit part number is 24 755 308-S. It has a suggested list price of 220.00. I know it doesn't look like it but it's actually a good deal. If you were to buy just the flywheel it has a list price of 272.00.

If it comes down to it you might be able to find a used or new old stock SAM. You would be looking for a part number 24 584 09-S or a 24 584 10-S. The two are the same electrically. The only difference is one had spade connectors where the other had bullet connectors.

If you have any good long established Kohler dealers near you they may have a SAM tester. It would be doubtful any Kohler dealer in business for less than 15 years would have one. Your best bet would be an "Expert Dealer". If you go to Kohler's website and search for dealers by zip code "Expert Dealers" are clearly defined.
 
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VegetiveSteam said:
Yes. That is the Spark Advance Module. One thing to check with the SAM. If you can loosen it enough, turn it over and inspect the epoxy potting material on the back for any signs of cracks. If that material cracks, it lets in moisture and that would likely cause it to no longer work properly.

There is a conversion kit that would eliminate the SAM. It comes with two new ignition modules and a new flywheel. The timing is different so the modules you just bought would become useless to you. The kit part number is 24 755 308-S. It has a suggested list price of 220.00. I know it doesn't look like it but it's actually a good deal. If you were to buy just the flywheel it has a list price of 272.00.

If it comes down to it you might be able to find a used or new old stock SAM. You would be looking for a part number 24 584 09-S or a 24 584 10-S. The two are the same electrically. The only difference is one had spade connectors where the other had bullet connectors.

If you have any good long established Kohler dealers near you they may have a SAM tester. It would be doubtful any Kohler dealer in business for less than 15 years would have one. Your best bet would be an "Expert Dealer". If you go to Kohler's website and search for dealers by zip code "Expert Dealers" are clearly defined.
Click to expand...
Ok 👌
 
stevieb50 said:
Ok 👌
Click to expand...

VegetiveSteam said:
Yes. That is the Spark Advance Module. One thing to check with the SAM. If you can loosen it enough, turn it over and inspect the epoxy potting material on the back for any signs of cracks. If that material cracks, it lets in moisture and that would likely cause it to no longer work properly.

There is a conversion kit that would eliminate the SAM. It comes with two new ignition modules and a new flywheel. The timing is different so the modules you just bought would become useless to you. The kit part number is 24 755 308-S. It has a suggested list price of 220.00. I know it doesn't look like it but it's actually a good deal. If you were to buy just the flywheel it has a list price of 272.00.

If it comes down to it you might be able to find a used or new old stock SAM. You would be looking for a part number 24 584 09-S or a 24 584 10-S. The two are the same electrically. The only difference is one had spade connectors where the other had bullet connectors.

If you have any good long established Kohler dealers near you they may have a SAM tester. It would be doubtful any Kohler dealer in business for less than 15 years would have one. Your best bet would be an "Expert Dealer". If you go to Kohler's website and search for dealers by zip code "Expert Dealers" are clearly defined.
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IMG_20230910_110539427.jpg
Is this the SAM ?
 
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