hydrostatic transmission draining oil

[ingigo]

I have had experiences opening transmissions. Every time they drop in value to below 0. The tolerances are too tight. If you do not have the tools and the 'sterile' area AND the expertise to do anything to that specific transmission, you just ruined it by opening it. A lot of the transmissions will tolerate a lot of use, if you do not stress or heat them up too much. I had a Hydro-Gear that lasted 20 years and its still going. Before, there were just gear shift transmissions, pretty simple. The hydrostatics now are like the automatic transmissions in vehicles. You just do not change the oil yourself in a automatic transmission. Save yourself time $ and frustration just buy a new one or have the company work on it.

 

[man00]

Mine is Hydro-Gear, I called them and their service dept said yes you can change the oil either way pumping it out or removing it and draining...You just have to purge it once done. And use 20w-50w good oil

 

[motoman]

I really do like it when you guys share this stuff. Ok....first the you tube. Even before reading Bert's primer on particulate matter I recoiled at the pitiful condition of the youtube dude's shop-a pig stye. He seemed good with his hands but not with hygiene. I think reynoldson has a point about pumping-it's likely to stir up swarf and dirt, perhaps doing more damage than good. No one has answered the question of additives in gear oil. Does heat kill them, necessitating changeout along with moisture accumulation, or is moisture driven off in operation through the check valve breather ? Are there only screens or are there paper filters inside these little marvels. I personally like the idea of Tufftorque suggesting a new pan for drainage. Your continued responses are greatly appreciated.

Edit, Hey guy 99. Take satisfaction that now your question has generated a good discussion. Obviously a man ahead of his time.

 

[Carscw]

I have taking 4 of these apart. To do a axle upgrade. Hours on all 4 of them over 1000. The oil looked new. Nice and brown. I see no need to ever change the oil.

 

[My_guy99]

I really do like it when you guys share this stuff. Ok....first the you tube. Even before reading Bert's primer on particulate matter I recoiled at the pitiful condition of the youtube dude's shop-a pig stye. He seemed good with his hands but not with hygiene. I think reynoldson has a point about pumping-it's likely to stir up swarf and dirt, perhaps doing more damage than good. No one has answered the question of additives in gear oil. Does heat kill them, necessitating changeout along with moisture accumulation, or is moisture driven off in operation through the check valve breather ? Are there only screens or are there paper filters inside these little marvels. I personally like the idea of Tufftorque suggesting a new pan for drainage. Your continued responses are greatly appreciated. Edit, Hey guy 99. Take satisfaction that now your question has generated a good discussion. Obviously a man ahead of his time.

Thanks, I will try to find me pictures I took when I disassemble my tuff torq rear end! When I split the case I was utterly amazed. All I seen was nasty cruddy oil gray and shavings all and it. At this time the oil only had about 25 hours on it and just two years old. I wasn't giving up when the manual stated non-serviceable I figured out who the rear was made by an contacted them and they said that's a piece of crap the best thing you can do is get that old fluid out of there and put fresh the wood and there is soon as possible! Supposedly they ship these things from the manufacturers dry and let the Company who is ever putting them in their tractors fill them up with oil to save money. I was told my particular tractor was filled up with the wrong oil and they know about it yet they can't do anything about it. I manufacture tuff torq told me to put 5W 50 Castro oil motor oil I believe only in it! I believe it was about 10 bucks a quart and took 3 quarts of oil! That was about five years ago when I split the cases and now I have 194 hours on it with no problems. I think I'm I split the case again just for $hits and giggles and replace the oil again? very easy to do just take your time! There are about four magnets in there as well make sure to clean them if you care to take it apart but like I said this was only my tractor and in my opinion needed to be done but I didn't buy yours you do what you feel like you need to do to your equipment I will continue to do this to my equipment and it seems to do me just fine! Just my two cents

 

[My_guy99]

I have taking 4 of these apart. To do a axle upgrade. Hours on all 4 of them over 1000. The oil looked new. Nice and brown. I see no need to ever change the oil.

I really need to show you the pictures of the wall in my case. All I'll say is thick gray milkshake! And instead of sprinkles shavings!

 

[reynoldston]

Thanks, I will try to find me pictures I took when I disassemble my tuff torq rear end! When I split the case I was utterly amazed. All I seen was nasty cruddy oil gray and shavings all and it. At this time the oil only had about 25 hours on it and just two years old. I wasn't giving up when the manual stated non-serviceable I figured out who the rear was made by an contacted them and they said that's a piece of crap the best thing you can do is get that old fluid out of there and put fresh the wood and there is soon as possible! Supposedly they ship these things from the manufacturers dry and let the Company who is ever putting them in their tractors fill them up with oil to save money. I was told my particular tractor was filled up with the wrong oil and they know about it yet they can't do anything about it. I manufacture tuff torq told me to put 5W 50 Castro oil motor oil I believe only in it! I believe it was about 10 bucks a quart and took 3 quarts of oil! That was about five years ago when I split the cases and now I have 194 hours on it with no problems. I think I'm I split the case again just for $hits and giggles and replace the oil again very easy to do just take your time! There are about four magnets in there as well make sure to clean them if you care to take it apart but like I said this was only my tractor and in my opinion needed to be done but I didn't buy yours you do what you feel like you need to do to your equipment I will continue to do this to my equipment and it seems to do me just fine! Just my two cents

If your oil is full of shavings you got more problems then a oil change

 

[motoman]

Well, we know (don't we?) that oil topics are almost as nasty as politics and just as hard to understand. MAYBE gear oil is a little easier to understand than engine oil. We know the additive pak in manual transmissions includes stuff to address shock and that moisture and blowby are not so relevant. Also that eetsy beetsy particles can clog auto car auto transmissions. Someone chime in on 1(shavings and swarf-how much is ok and should it all be found as a little pile of powder at the bottom of the sump where gravity put it or?) (2) sources and prices on FACTORY recommended brands and exact formulas.

Yes it is shocking that gear oil can be so expensive. It took years for me to adjust to German callouts of hydraulic fluid @ $17/ qt (l960), then synchromesh synthetic @ $12/liter, but nothing prepared me for a bullsxxx quart of limited slip fluid @ $75!!! But...if it truly works and preserves the gear sets...buy it.:confused2:

Thick grey milkshake sounds like car head gasket leaking cooland into oil, no?

 

[My_guy99]

Thick grey milkshake sounds like car head gasket leaking cooland into oil, no?[/QUOTE]

No coolant in a hydrostatic transaxle. Per the manufacture tuff torq they ship them dry, oil is added when it gets to the other company to be attached to the mower an it's the wrong/ lower end oil, his words!!!! It's Been 6 years and 170 hrs later it runs like a top!

 

[bertsmobile1]

Sounds like an oil/water emulsion to me.
So unless some one put water in there it should nevery happen.
Only time I have seen this was flood salvaged mowers and a couple of clots who washed their mowers with a pressure washer.

So if the op has an emulsion in his box he has to change the oil and will need to do it several times.