Hydro Transaxle gets a bit slow when it warms up

[Skippydiesel]

It should do better since the oil was burnt. But you at least replace that bad fan and clean the exterior of the unit. They are around $10.

I would if it was my mower BUT here is a short list of what needs doing ;

• Extensive corrosion and paint loss
• Transaxle cooling fan broken
• Drive belt needs replacing
• Left cutter deck spindle bearings worn out
• Left front wheel bearings worn out
• Tyres don’t hold pressure
• Engine in need of a major service
• Cutter deck – heavy corrosion/badly dented and even “ripped” in places

AND the owner seems unwilling to fork out any more than $250 Au.
The above list will go to the owner, as a condition report, with the advice to act on it.

FYI - recently purchased a similar fan for a Ferris from memory, not much change out of $70 AU (had to come from the States)

 

[Skippydiesel]

The fans are not expensive just check that you order the right one as they come in push or pull blade angles
Without the fan the oil will overheat get too thin and loose traction.
An essential job with every service is to thoroughly clean the transmission
I use a very long air duster bought from Cheap & nasty car parts almost a decade ago
Do not use water as it just sets the dust into concrete .

Took me well over an hour, with compressed air wand, to clean the crud from this mower. Even then there was more cleaning, after I got the transaxle out.

My own equipment (I have 5 ride-ons, two push mowers, several chainsaws & brushcutters and fire pumps) are thouroughly cleaned with compressed air ONLY after every use. I advise all my customers to do likewise and NOT use water, don't cut wet grass, etc - falls on deaf ears.

 

[Auto Doc's]

"Terryl fixes all" has a video on these Tuff Torque drives.

One thing that needs attention is the wear plate. They need to be resurfaced flat using flat tempered glass Or, similar true flat surface) and 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Along with that use thin .020-inch shims under the pressure springs inside the plungers.

Use the recommended John Deere Torq Guard fluid. Substitutes often cause problems. Sorry, "synthetic" is an advertising gimmick to charge a higher price. All oils are a majority of base oil products with additives.

Option 2 is to find a suitable replacement. These differentials were not exclusive to John Deere riders. ATP/AYP and Toro builds many of the riders and push even to this day. Tuff Torque (TM) units were installed in most riders with hydrostatic transmissions.

Zero turn mowers mostly use Parker brand hydrostatic motors

 

[Skippydiesel]

"Sorry, "synthetic" is an advertising gimmick to charge a higher price. All oils are a majority of base oil products with additives."

You are only partly correct. Try reading this article -

https://www.caranddriver.com/research/a32879214/synthetic-oil/

 

[Craftsman Garage]

@Auto Doc's That's what I said

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Have removed transaxle (Tuff Torq K46 V) from mower & drained some really black horrible oil from it.

Cooling fan down to 2 blades - won't be doing much to keep the system cool.

The whole thing covered in compacted chaff/mud mixture - more heat retention.

Surprisingly, the magnet had only a little "fuzz" on it.

Refilled with 2 Litres, full synthetic, Penrite HPR 10 10W-50 motor oil. This is about the cheapest job I can do for the owner, any more and the cost (already more than the mower is worth) will become downright embarrassing.

In its day the JD Sabre must have been a quality ride-on - that its lasted this long, with so little care, speaks volumes.

Doing what you did could not have been inexpensive, unless you really discounted your labor rate. Hope it works out and sounds like the mower needs a lot more help. It would be throwing good money after bad though.

 

[Skippydiesel]

Felt sorry for him - discounted by 50% (won't get rich any time soon)

 

[Auto Doc's]

Felt sorry for him - discounted by 50% (won't get rich any time soon)

Hi Skippydiesel,

No one will ever get rich working on small engine equipment. It's decent for a young person trying to learn more about general mechanics or a decent hobby for older retiring folks.

It is not a top paying career by any stretch of the imagination. New riders cost as much as a used car, parts are often discontinued within a couple of years and labor costs of most shops will quickly outpace the cost of just buying a new machine.

Used equipment is not a bargain anymore and people are just not buying them. Four out of six mowers I get in are beyond economic repair, so people just abandon them. I am running more of a salvage than a repair shop these days.

 

[Skippydiesel]

Up until CV 19, I was doing a good trade in reconditioned ride on mowers, pumps, brush cutters, generators and compressors (most given to me as non goers). All of a sudden couldn't sell one, even at a price that just covered parts.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Up until CV 19, I was doing a good trade in reconditioned ride on mowers, pumps, brush cutters, generators and compressors (most given to me as non goers). All of a sudden couldn't sell one, even at a price that just covered parts.

It is true that as a one person small engine repair shop, you can make a living and that is it. The money is only one aspect of why I have a small engine repair shop. The challenge, helping people, learning, not working for someone are also important.