Husqvarna YTH1842 ignition switch wire question

[StarTech]

Okay now things are getting a little confusing.

Here is the different terminals.
Amp 179975-1

Amp 42281-1

Aptiv (F56) 2965867-L



Your current housing uses the AMP 42281-1 terminal.

The Rotary housing uses the Aptiv 2965867-L terminal

And the Amp 179975-1 may fit either one but there is one problem. The Amp 179975-1 will lock on the switch terminal tabs and not be locked in either housing. This can be a problem later as the connector housing will come off but terminal will stay lock on the switch tabs.


from the above the last terminal [Amp 179975-1] you link is on the Left. The F56 [Aptiv 2965867-L] is in the Center. The other terminal [Amp 42281-1] is on the Right.
If you look at the center switch tabs you will see a hole. This is what the terminal on the Left is locking into.

 

[StarTech]

Also the reason the new connector housing is such a pain is it has double locking tabs for each terminal.

Here is an example.

 

[bd323]

Years ago I had the same restart issue with my Toro Timecutter push mower and it turned out to be the coil was bad.

 

[cbr7380]

Just noting those terminals are what appears to be Amp 42281-1 18-14 ga terminals. My distributor only sells them in cut strips of 100 pieces or in a reel of 24000 - 55000 pieces.

So I need to a strip for breaking down into loose terminals for later use here.

Years ago I had the same restart issue with my Toro Timecutter push mower and it turned out to be the coil was bad.

yeah thats what i'm wondering when i tinker with the armature it fires off perfectly then a lil later won't turn the engine over

 

[bd323]

I would start up and I cut for 15-20 minutes. I stopped to refuel to cut the rear yard and restarting was almost impossible. It was under warranty and the shop found the bad coil.

 

[cbr7380]

I would start up and I cut for 15-20 minutes. I stopped to refuel to cut the rear yard and restarting was almost impossible. It was under warranty and the shop found the bad coil.

Also the reason the new connector housing is such a pain is it has double locking tabs for each terminal.

Here is an example.
View attachment 65842

@StarTech okay I found an old terminal in the garage the correct size. It has about 4-5 inches of wire already attached to it. My question is Could I just strip some of the B wire and use a crimp connector to attach B wire to the wire attached to the terminal I found?

 

[johniii]

@StarTech okay I found an old terminal in the garage the correct size. It has about 4-5 inches of wire already attached to it. My question is Could I just strip some of the B wire and use a crimp connector to attach B wire to the wire attached to the terminal I found?

Have you removed the old wire terminal? A crimp should work. But seal it .

 

[cbr7380]

Have you removed the old wire terminal? A crimp should work. But seal it .

yeah that was the issue with the old terminal,it would just come right out of housing with the slightest pressure

 

[cbr7380]

okay so @StarTech and @johniii so today I got the new terminal in housing etc and it fired right off several times in a row but then back to the not firin up..I started noticing on the starter that the gear with the teeth is only going all the way up properly every so often and then it starts right up when it does? Is there a powering issue to the starter?

 

[StarTech]

I suspect you have a Briggs Single cylinder engine with an inertia type starter. You probably having a voltage drop problem at the starter. Would suspect the remote starter solenoid of having burned internal contacts.

You can try jumping the two large posts of the remote starter solenoid with a junk screw driver and see if the starter engages every time. If it does then replacing the solenoid may very well fix the problem.