Husqvarna RZ5424 with Kohler SV725-3026

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,995
All the solenoid does is connect the 2 heavy terminals on the top.
So one of them has the power from the battery and the other has the power cable to the starter.
It is turned on & off by the small terminal at the base being given 12V ( VIA THE CRANKING CIRCUIT ) .
The other half of the trigger is the bolt holding the solenoid down that makes the ground half of the trigger circuit.
If the solenoid is bolted onto something that is plastic then there will be a ground strap to one of the bolts.
On the same post as the wire from the battery should be power feed to the mower, usually a red wire with a fuse in it that connects to the B on the battery,

No wire should have an aligator clip on it so that wire might be a power take off to run an accessory .
You need to follow it back through the loom and see where it goes to
 

Andi

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
24
I should have clarified. My picture was a very crude example of how the battery cables were connected. The alligator clip was only an example of the negative cable, the red wires were positive and the green was showing where the yellow start wire was. They are not the actual cables and wires.
I will connect it and find a place to put the battery negative to chassis, with a known good solenoid.
 

AVB

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2019
Threads
0
Messages
200
I should have clarified. My picture was a very crude example of how the battery cables were connected. The alligator clip was only an example of the negative cable, the red wires were positive and the green was showing where the yellow start wire was. They are not the actual cables and wires.
I will connect it and find a place to put the battery negative to chassis, with a known good solenoid.
That part I understood and that gave the example of how it should be connected; though, not exactly as I would not be crossing over the tow main leads even though they are heavily insulated.
 

Andi

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
24
Okay...
I hooked everything up as I should...nothing. I have 12.33 volts at the starter and the yellow wire and both sides of the solenoid but the starter won't engage...thinking I need to replace it. But I was also wondering about the ignition switch (they do not seat all the way) If I make a three-way jumper between A1-S-B (all else being equal) it should start...according to the schematic key position 4. IF that works, I can direct wire the switch. Thoughts?

BUT I connected the little black wire to the solenoid body bolt and I had 12.33 volts at the solenoid mounting screw on that side, so I called Husqvarna. It doesn't go anywhere. If I ever put lights in the tractor, it is the jumper between the lights.
 

AVB

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2019
Threads
0
Messages
200
I am beginning to think you have grounding issue here as if the solenoid is mounted to the metal frame that black wire would have burned or severely overheated with it having 12V on it.. Please check the battery negative post to frame ground cable. The engine should also be grounded to the frame. Without a negative return path nothing going to work.

I just repaired an IH Farmall Super M tractor this week where the cable end was not making contact with the 2 gauge ground wire even though it was bolted to the cable. Found to be corroded clean it up and everything is working again. To bad the owner had put a new starter on it as it is not returnable.
 

Andi

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
24
I think you're right...I have 12.34 volts everywhere there is supposed to be voltage. the battery negative bolted to the frame solid connections on both ends. the cable looks good, but I could make a new one with 0 or 00 cable?
That black wire still has 12.34 V with key on.

One thing I didn't mention (because I am a bus gal and don't know crap about lawn tractors) Before all this started, when the only electrical problem was the solenoid, the tractor went to the shop and got a new middle spindle, blade and belt. Could the shop have unplugged anything down there that I don't see? Could the paint on the frame be causing the batt - issue?
 
Last edited:

Andi

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
24
I found this post...same tractor, different wire problem...BUT if you look at the third picture the little black wire is sitting below the guy's finger. I believe he got the wrong harness but his black wire didn't go anywhere either?
 

AVB

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2019
Threads
0
Messages
200
First the cable doesn't any larger than 6 ga,
One thing I didn't mention (because I am a bus gal and don't know crap about lawn tractors) Before all this started, when the only electrical problem was the solenoid, the tractor went to the shop and got a new middle spindle, blade and belt. Could the shop have unplugged anything down there that I don't see? Could the paint on the frame be causing the batt - issue?
There is no reason to unplug anything under the mower body when replacing the deck belt, spindle, or blade. Replacing the drive is a different story as they have remove the electric PTO clutch and hopefully they plugged it back in and have the anti-rotation device installed correctly.

As far paint normally the screw have star washers and make good contact via the threads provided they are tight.
 

Andi

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
24
I did exactly that and I had 12.32 V on the mounting screw. under the seat? I'll upload a few pics
 

Andi

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
24
1579965711315.png
ABOVE: Little black wire in harness with acc. outlet, red batt connector wire and yellow starter solenoid wire

BELOW: I have 3 ignition switches...all OEM, This is how they seat. The copper flares out, so they do not sit flush but they DO make contact

1579965869508.png

My new Coils...white wire off so as not to burn the little chip inside.
1579965982726.png
 
Top