Husqvarna RZ5424 with Kohler SV725-3026

[bertsmobile1]

[QUOTE="Andi, post: 350360, member: 100681"
I jumped B to S. Had voltage on the yellow lines, including at solenoid, no voltage on white wires at the brake, PTO or either lap switch.
[/QUOTE]

I am having some troubles following what you are doing but the above is exactly what should be happening.
The starter should also crank if the yellow wire is hooked up to the solenoid.

You should only have power to one heavy lead on the solenoid till that yellow wire goes +.
The solenoid is just a switch like any other realy except it can handle 200 Amps.

Now to clarify things, does your mower have a remote solenoid or one that is piggy back on the starter which most Kohlers have ?

 

[AVB]

According to Kohler Plus the SV725-3026 would using a starter with a remote starter solenoid (relay). If the solenoid connected correctly then it clicks or not. If not it is bad but even it clicks it still can bad because burned contacts on the main internal contacts. To test for bad contacts you simple use a junk screwdriver and jump the two main terminals if the starter than cranks it is the solenoid; otherwise, it is the starter that is bad or a bad engine ground.

Maybe this will help...

 

[Andi]

Yep. That is the schematic, and as soon as the ice stops, I'm going to replace the solenoid...it won't even click. I have a three-position and a four-position that both bench tested good.
BUT...
What initially messed me up on the schematic was the 2 hour meters and 2 accessory outlets. I only have one of each. I believe that black wire would go to the other light socket if I had lights. There is only one wire from "L"..
The solenoid and "S" circuit show grounds separate from the others, but the solenoid is grounded by attaching it to the frame.

Although this is very different from the bus, should I put the negative cable back on the solenoid? (It came from the dealer with batt - on one side, batt + on the other with + to the starter and one tang for the yellow wire. It has 42.6 hours on it and has otherwise been a wonderful machine.

 

[AVB]

Those are options as I have work on a couple that didn't even either of them. All grounds are frame ground even the one that says engine ground is a frame point.

Although this is very different from the bus, should I put the negative cable back on the solenoid? (It came from the dealer with batt - on one side, batt + on the other with + to the starter and one tang for the yellow wire. It has 42.6 hours on it and has otherwise been a wonderful machine.

I think you might be mistaken as to if solenoid large terminals were setup as what you describe(with battery positive on one and the battery negative on the other) if I reading it correctly is a dead short once the solenoid engages. Normally the three terminal solenoids is connected as follows. Large posts> one connect to the battery positive terminal and the other connect to starter post via a cable. Then starter is ground return path is through the engine.frame ground back to the battery negative terminal. Small terminal is the solenoid switching terminal and solenoid trigger return path is the grounding of it to frame (mounting to metal frame). Now the post model of the solenoid would need a return to the battery negative side or just grounded to frame.

 

[Andi]

I thought it was odd, but both battery cables were indeed connected to the solenoid. On the positive side, there was also the cable that went to the starter. I pulled the battery out due to low temps and I am going to make new cables. If it does not start when I put it back (I'll put batt - to frame), I'll try jumping the starter with the car battery.

 

[AVB]

I am beening to think that your son may have wired it this way which is possible per the following comment. As the starter would never started without the battery being grounded to frame. Even then it would cranked all the time; unless, contrary to the engine's IPL it has a solenoid shift starter which would solenoid trigger to connect to trigger terminal on the starter's mounted solenoid. Please review the image as to determine which starter you have.

I have a question. My son (he's learning) went to replace the starter solenoid and did not make note of how the wiring connected. I replaced the entire harness because he connected the single black wire to the positive, and well...Anyhow,

 

[AVB]

Also if you are removing the cable from the starter please use two wrenches as using just one can break the cable mounting area on many starters.

 

[Andi]

It's the inertia drive starter. One bolt on the bottom where the batt + attaches. And yes, I always use two wrenches for items such as this.

 

[Andi]

Okay... PLEASE forgive the crude example. The only thing I am sure of...the batt - was on the left the batt + and the starter wire was on the right, and the small wire (purple in pic only...yellow on tractor) was on the tang
It came from the dealer that way.
What I didn't know...there is a small black wire that I believe goes to nothing (unless I install lights) and I wanted to ask. If this were on the bus, it would make more sense to me, so I appreciate your help...more than I can express.

 

[AVB]

Now the following is the typical three post wiring setup. Just this image is from a Cub Cadet but the wiring is the same except the battery small black on yours is green in this image. It is connect to the bolt that mounts the solenoid. The small red in the image is connected to the same post that goes to battery. Also note that the main battery negative cable is ground to the frame/engine crankcase