Since you have a 4 pole solenoid, there will be two smaller wires attached to tabs on solenoid. One will be a ground and the other will be a power wire, test voltage on this wire while trying to normally start. You can also unhook the wire and test also.
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Repairs husquvarna wont start
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Export threadSince you have a 4 pole solenoid, there will be two smaller wires attached to tabs on solenoid. One will be a ground and the other will be a power wire, test voltage on this wire while trying to normally start. You can also unhook the wire and test also.
When I put a screwdriver across the two large terminals it started to crank so I assume the valves are OK. When I turn the key to on (not start) I hear a faint click that is up by the front of the engine where the carb is. I pulled the solenoid so I can show it to the parts guy tomorrow so we will see how it goes. How many safety switches are on this tractor besides the seat safety? I have not located any others.
I just went out and looked around with a flash light and found a two prong plug that snaps into something on the mower belt clutch under the engine but I could not see anything connected to the clutch pedal. As far as I know this is just a mower and does not have a PTO.
bertsmobile1
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Look closely at the small wires on the solenoid.
One is + the other is -.
Both are connected to the safety switches.
In start position the + one should read 12V the - one should read 0 Ohms to earth or 12V between it and the hot terminal, on the solenoid.
If not you have a problem with the safety switches and either you need to post the full model/serial number of the mower so we can direct you to a source of a wiring diagram .
Or spend a long time checking each & every switch ( if you can find them ).
Check the solenoid by disconnecting the 2 thin wires & jumping directly to them polarity is not impostant just so one is+ & the other is -
One is + the other is -.
Both are connected to the safety switches.
In start position the + one should read 12V the - one should read 0 Ohms to earth or 12V between it and the hot terminal, on the solenoid.
If not you have a problem with the safety switches and either you need to post the full model/serial number of the mower so we can direct you to a source of a wiring diagram .
Or spend a long time checking each & every switch ( if you can find them ).
Check the solenoid by disconnecting the 2 thin wires & jumping directly to them polarity is not impostant just so one is+ & the other is -
Looking carefully at the small wires that connect to the solenoid I do not see any + or - on the wires or the solenoid. The right wire is white and the left wire consists of two black wires and both have a crimped on light translucent blue push on plug. You can read tiny numbers on the blue plugs but no + or - and they look factory. I picked up a new solenoid and will try to get it on tonight although for some reason I am thinking it is one of the safety switches and not the solenoid. The one I just took off looks like it might have been replaced once already. I will note that there is a white wire that comes off the ignition switch and goes into the wiring harness and there is a separate plug that goes on the ignition that has the same looking two black wires together that was coming out of the harness and into the left plug on the top of the solenoid. Tractor is believed to be around 2000 vintage LTH 130 with a 13 HP Kohler Command engine, mod. # CV15S spec. #41587 ser. # 2827302993. Anyone know how many safety switches are on this tractor?
Pto, seat ( shouldn't effect starting), and clutch Some mowers have relays also in the system, that work in conjunction with the safety switches.
Also there can be safety shorting switching built into the wiring harness to prevent just unplugging the switches.
Also there can be safety shorting switching built into the wiring harness to prevent just unplugging the switches.
bertsmobile1
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The starter solenoid control terminals are not polarity sensitive so they are not marked + / -.
All that matters is you complete the circuit so it can throw the switch so one must be + and the other must be -.
The only manual I know of is this one http://cdn.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO1998_USen/HUSO1998_USen__532164804.pdf
From the diagram it appears that power to the solenoid comes from the ignition switch ( terminal S) through the brake switch through the PTO switch then on to the solenoid and is white all the way through.
The negative looks like it is hard wired permanently to the battery - .
So to test the solenoid, run a + & - jumper to the small terminals on the solenoid ( disconnected from the loom ). If it is good the starter will energise.
Check you get 12 V when you connect a volt meter between the hot wire on the solenoid and the black wire going to the solenoid.
Check you have 12 V at the ignition B terminal.
Check the ignition switch is giving you 12 V at the S terminal when in the start position.
Follow this through the PTO switch then on to the solenoid.
All that matters is you complete the circuit so it can throw the switch so one must be + and the other must be -.
The only manual I know of is this one http://cdn.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO1998_USen/HUSO1998_USen__532164804.pdf
From the diagram it appears that power to the solenoid comes from the ignition switch ( terminal S) through the brake switch through the PTO switch then on to the solenoid and is white all the way through.
The negative looks like it is hard wired permanently to the battery - .
So to test the solenoid, run a + & - jumper to the small terminals on the solenoid ( disconnected from the loom ). If it is good the starter will energise.
Check you get 12 V when you connect a volt meter between the hot wire on the solenoid and the black wire going to the solenoid.
Check you have 12 V at the ignition B terminal.
Check the ignition switch is giving you 12 V at the S terminal when in the start position.
Follow this through the PTO switch then on to the solenoid.