20f42T wont crank. Lights will come on, PTO clicks as if to engauge (if it would crank) nothing comming out of the black side of solinoid. Seems like a kill switch?? Will not crank. Question #1- should I begin with the kill switches- wireing togather, replacing key switch....need some help
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Repairs husquvarna wont start
- Thread starter wjd03
- Start date
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Export threadHere is a procedure which I have found helps a lot of people with starting problem.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
6) ground is goodHere is a procedure which I have found helps a lot of people with starting problem.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
5) no power at starter as the post on solinoid has no current with switch on
4) see above list
3) nothing on the small black line of solinoid (sitting down, key on)
2) good there
1) good there
What is your voltage in test 1? Do you have a small wire going from the large battery terminal on the solenoid going to the switch? This would be your switch power. Test 3 indicates that you are getting no power from the switch to the solenoid. You will need to test to see where you are losing the voltage. Start at the switch, check the three safety switches, seat, PTO, and brake/clutch. Each one of these switches are normally open and must be closed to work. See my PM to you.
Rivets,
I'm having the same issue with my YTH2042. It was working fine until I got the bright idea to change the drive belt. It hasn't started since. It seems odd that a solenoid would be the cause.
I ran all the tests you suggested. With a helper on the seat, clutch pedal depressed and key held in the start position, I get voltage in all the right places except between the second large terminal of the solenoid to the starter. Being this is a 4-wire solenoid, one of the little connections is 12.5v and one isn't. So it would appear power is getting to the solenoid on one big and one little post (with the key turned), but not getting to the starter. I have reseated all the connections but still nothing but a solenoid click with the key turned. (If the PTO is engaged, I also hear another click when I turn the key so that tells me the clutch pedal is good.). 20A fuse is good. Around 3v at clutch connections.
So I took it a step further. I grabbed my truck battery (600 cca) and put jumper cables directly to the lawnmower engine ground and the red terminal on the starter. It tries to turn but doesn't really have the oomphh to turn the flywheel. I pulled the starter off the mower, hooked up the same jumper cables and it spins freely when power is applied.
I'm baffled.
1) While it could be the solenoid, would that stop the flywheel from turning if it was bypassed?
2) There is a white wire with a female connector in the harness on a short 4" wire which to me means it should connect to something within four inches of where it is anchored. But I can't find an open connector anywhere it would go to. Is this even used?
3) Is this the kind of starter where the gear stays engaged with the flywheel at all times or should the gear retract itself into its shell like a car starter? This one stays in one place -- engaged.
Thanks in advance!
I'm having the same issue with my YTH2042. It was working fine until I got the bright idea to change the drive belt. It hasn't started since. It seems odd that a solenoid would be the cause.
I ran all the tests you suggested. With a helper on the seat, clutch pedal depressed and key held in the start position, I get voltage in all the right places except between the second large terminal of the solenoid to the starter. Being this is a 4-wire solenoid, one of the little connections is 12.5v and one isn't. So it would appear power is getting to the solenoid on one big and one little post (with the key turned), but not getting to the starter. I have reseated all the connections but still nothing but a solenoid click with the key turned. (If the PTO is engaged, I also hear another click when I turn the key so that tells me the clutch pedal is good.). 20A fuse is good. Around 3v at clutch connections.
So I took it a step further. I grabbed my truck battery (600 cca) and put jumper cables directly to the lawnmower engine ground and the red terminal on the starter. It tries to turn but doesn't really have the oomphh to turn the flywheel. I pulled the starter off the mower, hooked up the same jumper cables and it spins freely when power is applied.
I'm baffled.
1) While it could be the solenoid, would that stop the flywheel from turning if it was bypassed?
2) There is a white wire with a female connector in the harness on a short 4" wire which to me means it should connect to something within four inches of where it is anchored. But I can't find an open connector anywhere it would go to. Is this even used?
3) Is this the kind of starter where the gear stays engaged with the flywheel at all times or should the gear retract itself into its shell like a car starter? This one stays in one place -- engaged.
Thanks in advance!
If you do not get 12V on the second large terminal when you turn the key to start and hear the solenoid click, it usually means one of two things. First, connect your VOM across the battery and take a reading when you turn the key to start. You should see a diffident voltage drop. If you see one then the solenoid is normally good and the starter is bad. If you see no drop, that usually means that the solenoid is bad.
When you jumped it with the truck battery and could not get it to spin over, that leads me to believe that the starter is going bad. It is unusual to have both starter and solenoid go bad at the same time, but I have seen it happen more than once.
Once your engine starts, engine speed will disengage the starter.
Don't have a wiring diagram available, so can't tell you about the white wire.
When you jumped it with the truck battery and could not get it to spin over, that leads me to believe that the starter is going bad. It is unusual to have both starter and solenoid go bad at the same time, but I have seen it happen more than once.
Once your engine starts, engine speed will disengage the starter.
Don't have a wiring diagram available, so can't tell you about the white wire.
Thanks for the quick reply!
I put the leads on the positive and negative terminal of the battery which read 12.35 - 12.40 volts. When the key was turned to the Start position, it dropped to 12.15 - 12.25 volts. I get the same results when I tried the negative at the battery and on the first red lead at the solenoid.
Do you really think that would be the starter?
I put the leads on the positive and negative terminal of the battery which read 12.35 - 12.40 volts. When the key was turned to the Start position, it dropped to 12.15 - 12.25 volts. I get the same results when I tried the negative at the battery and on the first red lead at the solenoid.
Do you really think that would be the starter?