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husquvarna wont start
#1
W
wjd03
W
wjd03
20f42T wont crank. Lights will come on, PTO clicks as if to engauge (if it would crank) nothing comming out of the black side of solinoid. Seems like a kill switch?? Will not crank. Question #1- should I begin with the kill switches- wireing togather, replacing key switch....need some help
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Here is a procedure which I have found helps a lot of people with starting problem.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
#3
W
wjd03
5) no power at starter as the post on solinoid has no current with switch on
4) see above list
3) nothing on the small black line of solinoid (sitting down, key on)
2) good there
1) good there
W
wjd03
6) ground is goodHere is a procedure which I have found helps a lot of people with starting problem.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
5) no power at starter as the post on solinoid has no current with switch on
4) see above list
3) nothing on the small black line of solinoid (sitting down, key on)
2) good there
1) good there
#4
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
What is your voltage in test 1? Do you have a small wire going from the large battery terminal on the solenoid going to the switch? This would be your switch power. Test 3 indicates that you are getting no power from the switch to the solenoid. You will need to test to see where you are losing the voltage. Start at the switch, check the three safety switches, seat, PTO, and brake/clutch. Each one of these switches are normally open and must be closed to work. See my PM to you.
#5
B
bellc1
B
bellc1
Rivets,
I'm having the same issue with my YTH2042. It was working fine until I got the bright idea to change the drive belt. It hasn't started since. It seems odd that a solenoid would be the cause.
I ran all the tests you suggested. With a helper on the seat, clutch pedal depressed and key held in the start position, I get voltage in all the right places except between the second large terminal of the solenoid to the starter. Being this is a 4-wire solenoid, one of the little connections is 12.5v and one isn't. So it would appear power is getting to the solenoid on one big and one little post (with the key turned), but not getting to the starter. I have reseated all the connections but still nothing but a solenoid click with the key turned. (If the PTO is engaged, I also hear another click when I turn the key so that tells me the clutch pedal is good.). 20A fuse is good. Around 3v at clutch connections.
So I took it a step further. I grabbed my truck battery (600 cca) and put jumper cables directly to the lawnmower engine ground and the red terminal on the starter. It tries to turn but doesn't really have the oomphh to turn the flywheel. I pulled the starter off the mower, hooked up the same jumper cables and it spins freely when power is applied.
I'm baffled.
1) While it could be the solenoid, would that stop the flywheel from turning if it was bypassed?
2) There is a white wire with a female connector in the harness on a short 4" wire which to me means it should connect to something within four inches of where it is anchored. But I can't find an open connector anywhere it would go to. Is this even used?
3) Is this the kind of starter where the gear stays engaged with the flywheel at all times or should the gear retract itself into its shell like a car starter? This one stays in one place -- engaged.
Thanks in advance!
I'm having the same issue with my YTH2042. It was working fine until I got the bright idea to change the drive belt. It hasn't started since. It seems odd that a solenoid would be the cause.
I ran all the tests you suggested. With a helper on the seat, clutch pedal depressed and key held in the start position, I get voltage in all the right places except between the second large terminal of the solenoid to the starter. Being this is a 4-wire solenoid, one of the little connections is 12.5v and one isn't. So it would appear power is getting to the solenoid on one big and one little post (with the key turned), but not getting to the starter. I have reseated all the connections but still nothing but a solenoid click with the key turned. (If the PTO is engaged, I also hear another click when I turn the key so that tells me the clutch pedal is good.). 20A fuse is good. Around 3v at clutch connections.
So I took it a step further. I grabbed my truck battery (600 cca) and put jumper cables directly to the lawnmower engine ground and the red terminal on the starter. It tries to turn but doesn't really have the oomphh to turn the flywheel. I pulled the starter off the mower, hooked up the same jumper cables and it spins freely when power is applied.
I'm baffled.
1) While it could be the solenoid, would that stop the flywheel from turning if it was bypassed?
2) There is a white wire with a female connector in the harness on a short 4" wire which to me means it should connect to something within four inches of where it is anchored. But I can't find an open connector anywhere it would go to. Is this even used?
3) Is this the kind of starter where the gear stays engaged with the flywheel at all times or should the gear retract itself into its shell like a car starter? This one stays in one place -- engaged.
Thanks in advance!
#6
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If you do not get 12V on the second large terminal when you turn the key to start and hear the solenoid click, it usually means one of two things. First, connect your VOM across the battery and take a reading when you turn the key to start. You should see a diffident voltage drop. If you see one then the solenoid is normally good and the starter is bad. If you see no drop, that usually means that the solenoid is bad.
When you jumped it with the truck battery and could not get it to spin over, that leads me to believe that the starter is going bad. It is unusual to have both starter and solenoid go bad at the same time, but I have seen it happen more than once.
Once your engine starts, engine speed will disengage the starter.
Don't have a wiring diagram available, so can't tell you about the white wire.
When you jumped it with the truck battery and could not get it to spin over, that leads me to believe that the starter is going bad. It is unusual to have both starter and solenoid go bad at the same time, but I have seen it happen more than once.
Once your engine starts, engine speed will disengage the starter.
Don't have a wiring diagram available, so can't tell you about the white wire.
#7
B
bellc1
B
bellc1
Thanks for the quick reply!
I put the leads on the positive and negative terminal of the battery which read 12.35 - 12.40 volts. When the key was turned to the Start position, it dropped to 12.15 - 12.25 volts. I get the same results when I tried the negative at the battery and on the first red lead at the solenoid.
Do you really think that would be the starter?
I put the leads on the positive and negative terminal of the battery which read 12.35 - 12.40 volts. When the key was turned to the Start position, it dropped to 12.15 - 12.25 volts. I get the same results when I tried the negative at the battery and on the first red lead at the solenoid.
Do you really think that would be the starter?
#8
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
That is not a significant drop and in my opinion I would replace the solenoid first. The solenoid is energizing but not making good contact internally between the two large terminals.
#9
B
bellc1
B
bellc1
I'll see if I can find one locally before ordering online and let you know how it went.
I appreciate it!
No chance this could be a sensor or something, could it?
I appreciate it!
No chance this could be a sensor or something, could it?
#11
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Any good small engine repair shop should have a solenoid in stock. Even some of the big box stores.
#12
Carscw
Carscw
I get mine at napa but most auto parts stores will have them. Cheaper than a dealer or Home Depot
Sent from my iPhone using LMF
Sent from my iPhone using LMF
#13
B
bellc1
B
bellc1
I believe I had a brain fart. I should have just tried jumping across the big screws on the solenoid to narrow down if the solenoid was the problem. It was. And even the starter gear retracts now.
So I'm back in business! Thanks everyone!!!
Now I have to ask a new question ...
So I'm back in business! Thanks everyone!!!
Now I have to ask a new question ...
#14
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Glad to help, and thanks for letting us know you solved the problem. Most people are to lazy to do that.
#15
T
turnerbend
Can't believe non of the experts suggested to jump across solenoid. That would be the first thing to check.
T
turnerbend
I believe I had a brain fart. I should have just tried jumping across the big screws on the solenoid to narrow down if the solenoid was the problem. It was. And even the starter gear retracts now.
So I'm back in business! Thanks everyone!!!
Now I have to ask a new question ...
Can't believe non of the experts suggested to jump across solenoid. That would be the first thing to check.
#16
Carscw
If you jump across the solenoid you still do not know if it is bad with out doing other tests
Sent from my iPhone using LMF
Carscw
Can't believe non of the experts suggested to jump across solenoid. That would be the first thing to check.
If you jump across the solenoid you still do not know if it is bad with out doing other tests
Sent from my iPhone using LMF
#17
D
Da'Squirrel
D
Da'Squirrel
I recently got a Husqvarna ZTH5225A and it didn't run , one problem was it didn't turn over or even click with a hot battery , it turned into a two fold problem , I was getting no voltage to the ignition or starter solinoid , I repaced the relay on the left side the mower as I found water had gotten into it and corrided the points in there and after changing it would power up with key in accessory position but blow the fuse when turned to start , I really scrathed my head alot on this one tracing wires looking for a short , I unplugged the ignition switch and jumped two wires to the plug , one to power up the accessory and one to jump the starter solinoid , it started and ran , changed the switch for $17 and it is working fine --------------- from what I learned troubleshooting my problem , your problem could be in the saftey system , if the park brake is not set , the blade engagement switch engaged or the seat sensor not making contact it won't get voltage to the ignition switch --------- good luck and Happy Holidays
#18
J
jaymallin
J
jaymallin
Did you adjust the valves?
I have a LGT26v54 with the Briggs VTWin. I spent the last season double-cranking to get it started. I couldn't get it to just spin the starter. During the last cold snap, I turned the key and got nothing. I looked at all the electrical until I got to the starter. Replaced it and it spun, but stopped before it could turn over. I looked up a valve-adjustment video on Glens Do-It-Yourself and adjusted the valves, replaced spark plugs, air and fuel filters. Put it all together and she spun right up and purrs like a little baby - amazing what a little adjustment in the valves made!!!
I have a LGT26v54 with the Briggs VTWin. I spent the last season double-cranking to get it started. I couldn't get it to just spin the starter. During the last cold snap, I turned the key and got nothing. I looked at all the electrical until I got to the starter. Replaced it and it spun, but stopped before it could turn over. I looked up a valve-adjustment video on Glens Do-It-Yourself and adjusted the valves, replaced spark plugs, air and fuel filters. Put it all together and she spun right up and purrs like a little baby - amazing what a little adjustment in the valves made!!!
#19
S
spence340
S
spence340
Sorry to dig up such an old thread but I am a newbie here and I trying to get my 2000 (aprox.) LTH130 started. My daughter was mowing the lawn with it last year and it ran out of gas and now it will not crank over. I replaced the seat switch and ignition switch and the battery was fine and reads 12.3 right now. I do get a click when I turn the key to on which after reading this I assume is the carb switch because it is coming from the front left. The fuse looked OK so I tore it apart so I could get at the solenoid, which is a four post, and when I crossed terminals it cranked. Should I just replace the solenoid or should I be checking something else first. Any help would be appreciated, I am getting ready to torch this thing.
#20
L
logan01
L
logan01
Perhaps only the valves need adjusting. If you only get a good click, try the following with a well charged battery or a charger:
Raise the hood.
You will see the large circular screen atop the engine.
With both hand laying flat on it, rotate it until it frees up. It will then be on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke.
Might take 2-3 attempts to do that to the point when you attempt to start it, it'll spin up.
Raise the hood.
You will see the large circular screen atop the engine.
With both hand laying flat on it, rotate it until it frees up. It will then be on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke.
Might take 2-3 attempts to do that to the point when you attempt to start it, it'll spin up.
#21
M
Mikel1
Since you have a 4 pole solenoid, there will be two smaller wires attached to tabs on solenoid. One will be a ground and the other will be a power wire, test voltage on this wire while trying to normally start. You can also unhook the wire and test also.
M
Mikel1
Sorry to dig up such an old thread but I am a newbie here and I trying to get my 2000 (aprox.) LTH130 started. My daughter was mowing the lawn with it last year and it ran out of gas and now it will not crank over. I replaced the seat switch and ignition switch and the battery was fine and reads 12.3 right now. I do get a click when I turn the key to on which after reading this I assume is the carb switch because it is coming from the front left. The fuse looked OK so I tore it apart so I could get at the solenoid, which is a four post, and when I crossed terminals it cranked. Should I just replace the solenoid or should I be checking something else first. Any help would be appreciated, I am getting ready to torch this thing.
Since you have a 4 pole solenoid, there will be two smaller wires attached to tabs on solenoid. One will be a ground and the other will be a power wire, test voltage on this wire while trying to normally start. You can also unhook the wire and test also.
#22
L
logan01
L
logan01
Are you saying the pto clicks when the key switch is in the run or start position without engaging pto?
#23
S
spence340
S
spence340
When I put a screwdriver across the two large terminals it started to crank so I assume the valves are OK. When I turn the key to on (not start) I hear a faint click that is up by the front of the engine where the carb is. I pulled the solenoid so I can show it to the parts guy tomorrow so we will see how it goes. How many safety switches are on this tractor besides the seat safety? I have not located any others.
#24
S
spence340
S
spence340
I just went out and looked around with a flash light and found a two prong plug that snaps into something on the mower belt clutch under the engine but I could not see anything connected to the clutch pedal. As far as I know this is just a mower and does not have a PTO.
#25
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Look closely at the small wires on the solenoid.
One is + the other is -.
Both are connected to the safety switches.
In start position the + one should read 12V the - one should read 0 Ohms to earth or 12V between it and the hot terminal, on the solenoid.
If not you have a problem with the safety switches and either you need to post the full model/serial number of the mower so we can direct you to a source of a wiring diagram .
Or spend a long time checking each & every switch ( if you can find them ).
Check the solenoid by disconnecting the 2 thin wires & jumping directly to them polarity is not impostant just so one is+ & the other is -
One is + the other is -.
Both are connected to the safety switches.
In start position the + one should read 12V the - one should read 0 Ohms to earth or 12V between it and the hot terminal, on the solenoid.
If not you have a problem with the safety switches and either you need to post the full model/serial number of the mower so we can direct you to a source of a wiring diagram .
Or spend a long time checking each & every switch ( if you can find them ).
Check the solenoid by disconnecting the 2 thin wires & jumping directly to them polarity is not impostant just so one is+ & the other is -
#26
S
spence340
S
spence340
Looking carefully at the small wires that connect to the solenoid I do not see any + or - on the wires or the solenoid. The right wire is white and the left wire consists of two black wires and both have a crimped on light translucent blue push on plug. You can read tiny numbers on the blue plugs but no + or - and they look factory. I picked up a new solenoid and will try to get it on tonight although for some reason I am thinking it is one of the safety switches and not the solenoid. The one I just took off looks like it might have been replaced once already. I will note that there is a white wire that comes off the ignition switch and goes into the wiring harness and there is a separate plug that goes on the ignition that has the same looking two black wires together that was coming out of the harness and into the left plug on the top of the solenoid. Tractor is believed to be around 2000 vintage LTH 130 with a 13 HP Kohler Command engine, mod. # CV15S spec. #41587 ser. # 2827302993. Anyone know how many safety switches are on this tractor?
#27
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Pto, seat ( shouldn't effect starting), and clutch Some mowers have relays also in the system, that work in conjunction with the safety switches.
Also there can be safety shorting switching built into the wiring harness to prevent just unplugging the switches.
Also there can be safety shorting switching built into the wiring harness to prevent just unplugging the switches.
#28
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
The starter solenoid control terminals are not polarity sensitive so they are not marked + / -.
All that matters is you complete the circuit so it can throw the switch so one must be + and the other must be -.
The only manual I know of is this one http://cdn.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO1998_USen/HUSO1998_USen__532164804.pdf
From the diagram it appears that power to the solenoid comes from the ignition switch ( terminal S) through the brake switch through the PTO switch then on to the solenoid and is white all the way through.
The negative looks like it is hard wired permanently to the battery - .
So to test the solenoid, run a + & - jumper to the small terminals on the solenoid ( disconnected from the loom ). If it is good the starter will energise.
Check you get 12 V when you connect a volt meter between the hot wire on the solenoid and the black wire going to the solenoid.
Check you have 12 V at the ignition B terminal.
Check the ignition switch is giving you 12 V at the S terminal when in the start position.
Follow this through the PTO switch then on to the solenoid.
All that matters is you complete the circuit so it can throw the switch so one must be + and the other must be -.
The only manual I know of is this one http://cdn.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO1998_USen/HUSO1998_USen__532164804.pdf
From the diagram it appears that power to the solenoid comes from the ignition switch ( terminal S) through the brake switch through the PTO switch then on to the solenoid and is white all the way through.
The negative looks like it is hard wired permanently to the battery - .
So to test the solenoid, run a + & - jumper to the small terminals on the solenoid ( disconnected from the loom ). If it is good the starter will energise.
Check you get 12 V when you connect a volt meter between the hot wire on the solenoid and the black wire going to the solenoid.
Check you have 12 V at the ignition B terminal.
Check the ignition switch is giving you 12 V at the S terminal when in the start position.
Follow this through the PTO switch then on to the solenoid.
#29
S
spence340
S
spence340
Put on the new solenoid which didn't work as I suspected so now I need to find out where to buy the safety switches. Can they be bought on line or will I have to go to a Husqvarna dealer?
#31
S
spence340
S
spence340
Yes, I do. I just came in from trying to put on the brake/clutch switch I bought today but what a pain. I finally just plugged it in and pushed in the plunger but to no avail. Won't crank. My son is coming home this weekend so I am going to start all over again with a helper to sit on the seat etc. while I test things.
#32
M
Mikel1
M
Mikel1
I noticed you said the fuse looked ok, I would test it to make sure. I also like to check above fuse holder for voltage since I have seen them go bad.
#33
S
spence340
S
spence340
Checked the fuse and it read 12.37 on both sides on the end of the fuse and I took it out and gave it the ohms check and it read 0. I was able to seat on the seat and reach over to the solenoid and the only thing that is live is the red cable coming from the battery to the right side of the solenoid. Even when I turn the key to start the only wire on the solenoid to show voltage is the feed from the battery. There is a small black relay box that is plugged in up near the ignition switch (number 81 on the wiring chart), would this have anything to do with a no crank situation? I did find the original owners manual which does have the nice wiring diagram that the gentleman form Australia mentioned and there is a trouble shooting section also that I will go through tonight.
#34
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
print out the wiring diagram as big as you can then colour in the wires ( pinch the derwents of the kids/ grandkids ).
Starting at the solenoid control wire going back to the ignition switch.
It makes trouble shooting a lot easier.
JD do it with most of their manuals so suddenly they are not just a mass of confusing lines
Then go to the mower, paper in hand & follow the wiring back back testing ( poke the probes hard up the back of the plugs ) the wiring all the way to the solenoid.
Don't worry too much about the numbers just keep checking for voltage as back testing does not necessarily give you a good clean contact, particularly on a mower.
When you get down to the solenoid some have a resister in them ( to protect the starter motor ) and need 9V to trigger.
Starting at the solenoid control wire going back to the ignition switch.
It makes trouble shooting a lot easier.
JD do it with most of their manuals so suddenly they are not just a mass of confusing lines
Then go to the mower, paper in hand & follow the wiring back back testing ( poke the probes hard up the back of the plugs ) the wiring all the way to the solenoid.
Don't worry too much about the numbers just keep checking for voltage as back testing does not necessarily give you a good clean contact, particularly on a mower.
When you get down to the solenoid some have a resister in them ( to protect the starter motor ) and need 9V to trigger.