How to thin out grass that is *way* too thick?

[Peva]

I'm thinking if its sooo thick, you would think it would start to choke its self out.

You'd think so. I do notice that the bottom inch or two of the blades is white/yellow. I don't know if that's normal, or if it's part of the root that would normally be below ground level, or if it's some other malnutrition effect of the overcrowding. In any case, you wouldn't think it's a healthy condition - but it continues to grow - maybe stored fertilizer left over from the OCD over-seeder?

I wondering if a lot of weeds would be a good thing as to choke out the grass. After that get rid of the weeds.

That's scary to think about. I'd be afraid you'd have to spend the next 5 years trying to get rid of the weeds. Do I go into Lowes and ask if they have any weed seeds for my lawn? :wink:

There's aso a product that "locks" the grass from growing after mowing it. I would consitrate on starving the root system. Good luck

Do you know the name of such a product, and where to get it - specialty landscape product, or Lowes?

I'm thinking the aeration should be the main point of attack.

Thanks everyone for the advice and info.

 

[exotion]

I forgot to add that in my opinion core cultivating it would PROMOTE a better root system. That's the opposite of what you are trying to achive.

Yes but it will achieve a couple of other things first temporary thinning of grass. Also if it is as thick as he says it is it will also rip some roots out as well after words lack of care will be how you fix. Lack of water and lack of fertilizer

 

[LakeRat1]

There are a couple things that have not been talked about, what kind of gras does he have? Some types of Grass are much Harder to Cut than some others, Next thing is if the Grass is hard to cut, Sharp Blades will be a Must, i have never seen grass to thick to Cut, it needs to be cut on a timely Bases, I dont know what size mower he has, i see its a cub cudet of some type, if he is a busy man, he either needs to hire it cut every 7 days or he need to get him self a Mower that he can get it cut in 30 min. or Less, and with the right machine that is very possible,

There is one thing for surem he has some Very good Soil, He may have to cut every 5 days, there is a grass in my are know as
Bahia Grass, it is used as a Hay or Pasture Grass, but it has found its way into some Yards, it is one more tuff grass to cut, seed heads pop up in just a couple days after you mow it

 

[Peva]

Good questions, LakeRat1. I didn't check the blades, but he says he has it sharpened at the beginning of each mowing season - maybe it needs sharpening more often, but the problem is there right after it is sharpened. But your point is well taken - do everything we can to minimize the problem.

I did ask him and he said that this is a mulching mower - which could definitely compound the problem. I asked if there was another type of blade that could be put on it, but he said they list only the one type for it. I have a feeling that a little research would turn up a blade of the right size and fit that is't a mulching blade. I also realize that part of what makes a mower a mulching mower is the design of the mower housing - which of course there's probably nothing that could be done short of getting a different mower.

He does have the side chute on, which would make it less of a mulching effect. I'm tempted to put my mower in the F-150 this weekend and just see how it handles it as a comparison.

Here is the mower he has (pretty sure - no other models of Cub Cadets on the net look anything like this model). I know his is 33", and 10.5 HP:

The idea to do whatever we can to damage the root system of the grass is a good one - that will help figure out additional things we can do. As far as not fertilizing, I didn't ask him, but, given the problem, I'm pretty sure he is not fertilizing (will ask).

And I don't know what type of grass it is.

 

[LakeRat1]

Peva I didnt think about it being a Mulching Mower, That is on of the biggest Power Robbers that ever came along, if i were him i would either cut the grass twice a week or take the mulcher off the unit

 

[Carscw]

Well there we have it a mulching blade is made to keep the grass under the mower.
They do make high lift blades to fit his mower or they call them bagging blades.
If he would change the blades it would be like a new mower.

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))

 

[Peva]

OK - great info. Will look into the bagging blade.

 

[LakeRat1]

Peva, I dont know what all is under that mower to make it a Mulchering mower, but what ever it is i would remove it, My big mower with the 60 in deck, had a number of things that would hold the grass under the deck, it would chock up when ever it got to any heavy grass, I raise it up and removed all that mess, Mulching is for people that are going to kept the grass cut very often, or their land so so poor that the grass don't grow, after removing all the mulching stiff my mower throws the grass 10 ft away from it, I really think your problem it the Mulching Kit & Maybe the Baldes not being sharp, Good luck


LakeRat

 

[AmericanTurf]

Set the grass on fire.

 

[vtdano]

Thanks for all of the good comments guys. As my father-in-law stated, I have just under an acre of grass that is seriously over fertilized. I cut it every 5-7 days, or if I am too busy with work or school, I hire a guy to cut it for me. He has a 60" Scag and he said he has never seen grass as thick as mine. I have tried everything. I have cut it on the highest setting, then raked the clippings and cut it shorter, but when I cut it shorter, it turned brown on me. It is always better to cut your grass high so the blades will protect the roots from being over exposed to sunlight. Even on the highest setting, my mower chokes and wears out the belt. I think the mulching blades are a big part of the problem as well, but when I bought new blades last year along with my new belt that I buy every year, they said that they do not make regular blades for this mower. I find that hard to believe and was planning to see if I can find them from a different retailer. If not, I may just find a grinder and make some straight blades myself that will fit the mower. I never use the mulcher plug that came with this mower, I have even tried lifting the grass chute a little bit with a bungee so that it has more room to throw the grass out. A lot of times, when I am mowing in the direction that the chute is throwing the grass towards the uncut grass, it doesn't even clear the deck very well.

I think the idea of a smaller belt is a good idea too. I contacted Cub Cadet and they said it should not need to be replaced every year, but that didn't help me much. I noticed that when the mower begins to choke, I can put a little more tension on the blade engage cable which is what pulls the middle fly wheel out to engage the blades, and the engine will kick up higher and the blades will cut better. I first did this as a test when I noticed the belt slipping and it did seem to help. It's a shame that there is no adjustment to that fly wheel, or that the engine would not just shut off instead of burning a spot in the belt, but that's just what happens. In my opinion, a lot of the reason the nice mowers like the exmark and scag work better is because of the distance in which they throw the clippings away from the deck. I will contact another retailer and see if I can't find a set of straight blades to replace my current mulching blades with and let you guys know. If I cannot find a smaller belt, I may make some modifications to the blade engage cable so that it can put a little more tension on the belt and maybe decrease the chance that it will start slipping.

Any more though or comments are greatly appreciated!!

VTDano