Honda HRX217-TDA Engine rebuild

[bertsmobile1]

If you can get hydrochloric acid this always works
1) degrease the shaft, multiple times till you can not see any oil slime on the top of the wash water
2) dip in a SMALL BOWL of acid and leave it there till the reaction slows down.
Do this outside because the bubbles are hydrogen gas BANG BANG BANG and some acid vapour which will collect on bare steel parts in your shop & start them rusting.

invert the engine with some angle iron under the support boss
Hit the shaft with an air hammer
10,000 litle blows a minute works a lot better than a big wack with a hammer every 3 minutes.

 

[Scrubcadet10]

Only problem, i ain't got an Air hammer...

Boudreaux, i tried the heating it up red hot and then quinching it still a no go, tried pulling it several times too afterwards.

My next step will be to throw it in the pond for a fish habitat. lol:laughing:

 

[Scrubcadet10]

I've heated that thing up to red hot several times now, still ain't coming off.
I might try soaking it in Diesel for awhile too.

 

[FasterZcar]

I've heated that thing up to red hot several times now, still ain't coming off.
I might try soaking it in Diesel for awhile too.

Do you have any pictures of how bad this is?

 

[Scrubcadet10]

I'll get you some pics.

It doesn't look that rusty around the outer edge of it on the crankshaft.
According to the diagrams it is keyed on, is it possible that the key sheared somehow and is jammed/ wedged in there????
:confused2:

 

[bertsmobile1]

No
Water gets in the key groove and rusts the shaft to the pulley.
The go is acid to dissolve the rust
But for acid to work the parts must be grease free and that includes diesel or WD 40.
If you have CLR ( Calcium Lime & Rust ) that will work as well but it will take a lot longer
Some rust dissolvers will also work but all they are is hydrochloric acid in a paste for 10 times the price
Do not use any thing that says CONVERTER because that will make them harder to part.

If you are going to continue to play with engines & powered equipment you will just have to tool up

FWIW last week I swapped drive pulleys on 2 Hondas that powered brick saws.
The customer rang & asked how to do it then 3 hours latter gave up & came down to the workshop.
He had to do it that day as he was going to work the next day so soaking was out of the question.
It took 4 hours of heating, hitting the shaft with the air hammer while he applied pressure on the pulleys with a variety of levers till they finally popped off.
Two minutes with a scotchbrite wheel on the shaft & the pulley slipped strait on.
Then it was off again for a slither of anti-sieze and he was on his way back home to mount the engine

It has now been 14 days since you started toying around with this engine and you are no closer to finishing that the day you started,
A cheap air hammer kit is around $ 30.
Mine came as part of the rubbish air kit they supply as a "free bonus" with a compressor.
The chisels are a joke no chance of any of them shearing off a frozen bolt head but the pointy one gets ground into a soft nose for hammering a pulley to walk it off.
Same story with rear axels that are rusted on solid.
I latter bought a few plenishing hammers for flattening out the welds on pressed decks.
A tool that gets used almost daily.
Great for popping flywheels off tapers as well.

If you go back to the TARYL videos about removing stuck pulleys & axels you will see him doing the same thing

 

[Scrubcadet10]

I think i might try using that evapo rust. I saw a test done by PRoject farm on youtube recently, and it performed really well.
If that dont work then it's acid time.
and i will definently look into some air hammer kits.:thumbsup:

 

[Scrubcadet10]

I finally got it pulled apart, soaked it in evapo-Rust for 4 days and tapped it off with a 3 pound hammer.
And I think I may have found the cause of the rod rattle, whenever I took the first rod bolt off, it took NO effort at all to loosen it, like it hadn't been torqued, or loosened up over time, the other took a good bit of strength to loosen, the crank pin, and rod look flawless, but im still going to check specs. I may go ahead and re ring it, rings are cheap for it.....

 

[jp1961]

Hhhhhmmmmm,,,reassemble with Loctite?

Regards

Jeff

 

[Scrubcadet10]

That's what i'm thinking too.
i guess red loctite?