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A friend of mine brought by his HRX217 with a GCV160 engine, apparently it's got a loud rod rattle/knock, and wants me to rebuild it, The oil is very very thin and black, might as well be water in their. I was going to look up bore specs and other specifications for it before i start, but i cant find any.I know parts are VERY cheap for it from online dealers. $30 bucks for a crankshaft, which almost has me suspicious. I also noticed the block seems to split in a weird way, kind of catty corner across it.
I Guess stay tuned for any questions i have and pictures.

cant get the @#^@$%! blade adapter off, not even with my 3 prong puller will it come off, soaked it WD-40 for awhile, still nothing..................

I guess next step will be using heat

I did a re-ring of my GCV-160 last year. I ran into the same issue with the blade adapter, wd40 just won’t cut it, you’ll need something like kroil oil or liquid wrench and heat. I recommend taking the bolt that holds the blade adapter on to the hardware store to get some grade 8 bolts of that size in various lengths. I had damaged the head of the factory bolt and bent a lower grade bolt in my attempt to get it off. You’ll need the various lengths because once you get it loss, it’ll still not just come off, you’ll need the different length bolts to continue to use the jaw puller. I had put both blades on the blade adapter very tight to keep from damaging the blade adapter, then used a two-jaw puller to grasp the edges of the blades with the center drive rod on the blade adapter bolt. It took me multiple attempts over several days to get it off.

As for the rebuild, a great set of videos to watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-B-H5tgxd7E . Most people will say that your foolish for rebuilding a throw away engine, but if you have the tools, and don’t spend to much on shop supplies it won’t be to bad. It cost me about $45 to do a re-ring with all new seals, o rings, timing belt, gaskets, GCV190 cast valve cover, and three broken bolts. Add another $30 to that if you need a new crankshaft. If the cylinder ($50) and crankshaft ($30) are both bad, then you might want to look into getting a pulled GCV190 from a pressure washer on ebay for around $110, then just put in the correct crankshaft for the lawnmower, and carb linkages from the GCV160. Don’t try to take the muffler off the engine, I broke both bolts in my attempt to get it off, an impact wrench is your only hope of getting it off. Clean the combustion chamber and valves good when you have it apart, I used MOPAR combustion chamber cleaner with great results.

Thanks for the reply! I watched those same videos!
I found a pitman arm puller i had that would fit around it, and used that tapping with a hammer, still no bueno, i guess ill put the heat to it today.
I'll be sure to give your idea a try too!

You wouldn't happen to know where i can find specs for this engine, mainly Bore diameter and Crankpin journal.
:smile:

Scrubcadet10 said:

cant get the @#^@$%! blade adapter off, not even with my 3 prong puller will it come off, soaked it WD-40 for awhile, still nothing..................

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Turn your 3 jaw puller into a 2 jaw puller you can get a better bite on it with 2 ...... Do you know how to rearrange the jaws ?? There is a extra arm on the body of the puller and that one lines up with one of the other ones.....

Then get a smaller bolt to go into the adapter 1 size smaller is fine if it slips right into the hole, then dimple the head of the bolt so the puller bolt don't slip out of it ...... I don't use the bolts that come on the engine, I find that they are too short to use sometimes............

Already beat you too it Boudreaux, that didnt work, even apply heat didn't work..

Scrubcadet10 said:

You wouldn't happen to know where i can find specs for this engine, mainly Bore diameter and Crankpin journal.
:smile:

Click to expand...

I have a paper copy of the shop manual.

,

Scrubcadet10 said:

Already beat you too it Boudreaux, that didnt work, even apply heat didn't work..

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Wow a torch didn't work ???? Heat it up real hot and I mean red hot, then hit it with a water hose till it cools down .... That will bust the rust down to a powder.... I have to do that on rider pulley's sometimes .....

Are you sure your threads are not stopping you from the boss to come off ???? That's why I don't use the bolt that holds the boss on there...... I have several bolts with the dimple, but I usually only need one ..........

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

On mine, it looked like the woodruff key had rusted itself into the key slot of the blade adapter. I would concentrate on the key slot area, and make sure that your puller is pulling straight off the crank.

If you can get hydrochloric acid this always works
1) degrease the shaft, multiple times till you can not see any oil slime on the top of the wash water
2) dip in a SMALL BOWL of acid and leave it there till the reaction slows down.
Do this outside because the bubbles are hydrogen gas BANG BANG BANG and some acid vapour which will collect on bare steel parts in your shop & start them rusting.

invert the engine with some angle iron under the support boss
Hit the shaft with an air hammer
10,000 litle blows a minute works a lot better than a big wack with a hammer every 3 minutes.

Only problem, i ain't got an Air hammer...

Boudreaux, i tried the heating it up red hot and then quinching it still a no go, tried pulling it several times too afterwards.

My next step will be to throw it in the pond for a fish habitat. lol:laughing:

I've heated that thing up to red hot several times now, still ain't coming off.
I might try soaking it in Diesel for awhile too.

Scrubcadet10 said:

I've heated that thing up to red hot several times now, still ain't coming off.
I might try soaking it in Diesel for awhile too.

Click to expand...

Do you have any pictures of how bad this is?

I'll get you some pics.

It doesn't look that rusty around the outer edge of it on the crankshaft.
According to the diagrams it is keyed on, is it possible that the key sheared somehow and is jammed/ wedged in there????
:confused2:

No
Water gets in the key groove and rusts the shaft to the pulley.
The go is acid to dissolve the rust
But for acid to work the parts must be grease free and that includes diesel or WD 40.
If you have CLR ( Calcium Lime & Rust ) that will work as well but it will take a lot longer
Some rust dissolvers will also work but all they are is hydrochloric acid in a paste for 10 times the price
Do not use any thing that says CONVERTER because that will make them harder to part.

If you are going to continue to play with engines & powered equipment you will just have to tool up

FWIW last week I swapped drive pulleys on 2 Hondas that powered brick saws.
The customer rang & asked how to do it then 3 hours latter gave up & came down to the workshop.
He had to do it that day as he was going to work the next day so soaking was out of the question.
It took 4 hours of heating, hitting the shaft with the air hammer while he applied pressure on the pulleys with a variety of levers till they finally popped off.
Two minutes with a scotchbrite wheel on the shaft & the pulley slipped strait on.
Then it was off again for a slither of anti-sieze and he was on his way back home to mount the engine

It has now been 14 days since you started toying around with this engine and you are no closer to finishing that the day you started,
A cheap air hammer kit is around $ 30.
Mine came as part of the rubbish air kit they supply as a "free bonus" with a compressor.
The chisels are a joke no chance of any of them shearing off a frozen bolt head but the pointy one gets ground into a soft nose for hammering a pulley to walk it off.
Same story with rear axels that are rusted on solid.
I latter bought a few plenishing hammers for flattening out the welds on pressed decks.
A tool that gets used almost daily.
Great for popping flywheels off tapers as well.

If you go back to the TARYL videos about removing stuck pulleys & axels you will see him doing the same thing

I think i might try using that evapo rust. I saw a test done by PRoject farm on youtube recently, and it performed really well.
If that dont work then it's acid time.
and i will definently look into some air hammer kits.:thumbsup:

I finally got it pulled apart, soaked it in evapo-Rust for 4 days and tapped it off with a 3 pound hammer.
And I think I may have found the cause of the rod rattle, whenever I took the first rod bolt off, it took NO effort at all to loosen it, like it hadn't been torqued, or loosened up over time, the other took a good bit of strength to loosen, the crank pin, and rod look flawless, but im still going to check specs. I may go ahead and re ring it, rings are cheap for it.....

Hhhhhmmmmm,,,reassemble with Loctite?

Regards

Jeff

That's what i'm thinking too.
i guess red loctite?

Although, i've heard loctite can mess up your torque when you do torque them.
i may just try new bolts and torque them.....

I use red only if I feel I'm never going to disassemble it, blue otherwise.

Small engines vibrate a lot and I started using it in my repairs a while back.

Jeff

I have a small dilemma on the rings, the bore is aluminum,
There are 2 ring sets available from the parts house online. One is 13 bucks, the other 30 bucks.
Part numbers: Honda 13010-Z0Y-004,$30
Honda 13010-Z0Y-014,$13.
They are both standard size.

I'm wondering if one set is genuine Honda, the other some cheap knockoff.

Regards

Jeff

Scrubcadet10 said:

I have a small dilemma on the rings, the bore is aluminum,
There are 2 ring sets available from the parts house online. One is 13 bucks, the other 30 bucks.
Part numbers: Honda 13010-Z0Y-004,$30
Honda 13010-Z0Y-014,$13.
They are both standard size.

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The 13010-Z0Y-004 is used on mower with serial number below 1575725

The 13010-Z0Y-014 is used on mower with serial number of 1575726 and above

Thanks Illengine! :thumbsup:

Okay, i got the engine serial number (1169962)


and do i need to do any cylinder preparation, apparently it is a aluminum cylinder (magnet wont stick to it), so do i need to clean it good..... light hone?
because there appears to be a crosshatch pattern where the piston doesn't touch the cylinder at the bottom....