Hammermechanicman
Lawn Addict
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2020
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 3,839
Make that 08S a wall hanger.
Most of the Oregon grinders are made in italy by Tecomec. Most of them are capacitor start motors and if you spin it backwards fast enough then turn it on they will run backwards. I have been looking for a DPDT switch that is the same size as the existing one so i can make it reversing like they used to be before the government made them "better". If you do lots of chains the CBN wheels are great but if you use them on dirty chains they will clog up and leave a big burr. A quick application of brake cleaner on a rag fixes that. You would be suprised how many people hand file their chains but never adjust the rakers.I hand sharpen chains for years until I ran into 8 chains took at least 8 new files out and left me with blisters. I now use an Oregon chain grinder but started with what turned out to be a piece of junk chain grinder sold by HFT. Just after a few months it was so sloppy I was having finish the chains by hand. When I got my Oregon grinder, the HFT one went into the trash after I took it apart.
Now using a chain grinder does have a learning curve as manufacture and chain style has different grinding profiles. But most are either 55/30/0 or 55/25/0. Some OEM chain specs wanting a 10 degree down angle but you can use the zero down angle. And depth gauges also need to check after all the cutters are done. Now on a rare occasion I do get rip chains which are usually done 55/10/0.
The main problem with grinder sharpen is the sharper operator tries to go too fast or take off too much at once. When they do they blue the cutters and harden so much that no one can hand sharpen the chains later.
Now the grinder will a slight flake burr on LH cutters which cause by the stone only turning one way. Most of that comes when the chain first touches wood. There are some more expensive units that have reverse grinding mode. About any these grinder can have a reverse added if you know how and don't modifying the electrical as the motor is a DC motor. It more a safety issue as to why most don't have reverse just something breaks off.
I use a Silvey 510 which has the bidirectional motor and the 10 degree down angle built into the system with the CBN wheels. So it sharpens all chains with the 10 degree angle. My first electric sharpener was a Silvey 300. I do semi chisel at 30 degrees and full chisel at 25 degrees. I started with a Sthil fg2 before going to electric sharpeners.I hand sharpen chains for years until I ran into 8 chains took at least 8 new files out and left me with blisters. I now use an Oregon chain grinder but started with what turned out to be a piece of junk chain grinder sold by HFT. Just after a few months it was so sloppy I was having finish the chains by hand. When I got my Oregon grinder, the HFT one went into the trash after I took it apart.
Now using a chain grinder does have a learning curve as manufacture and chain style has different grinding profiles. But most are either 55/30/0 or 55/25/0. Some OEM chain specs wanting a 10 degree down angle but you can use the zero down angle. And depth gauges also need to check after all the cutters are done. Now on a rare occasion I do get rip chains which are usually done 55/10/0.
The main problem with grinder sharpen is the sharper operator tries to go too fast or take off too much at once. When they do they blue the cutters and harden so much that no one can hand sharpen the chains later.
Now the grinder will a slight flake burr on LH cutters which cause by the stone only turning one way. Most of that comes when the chain first touches wood. There are some more expensive units that have reverse grinding mode. About any these grinder can have a reverse added if you know how and don't modifying the electrical as the motor is a DC motor. It more a safety issue as to why most don't have reverse just something breaks off.
Silvey made a nice machine. Not many of them around me. I have 2 of the oregon 620 hydraulic grinders. One is set up just to do rakers as i am lazy and tired of changing wheels. I may buy a third one to setup for 2 different wheel thicknesses. Most chains are at 55 and 30 with rakers at .020 unless customer wants something different.I use a Silvey 510 which has the bidirectional motor and the 10 degree down angle built into the system with the CBN wheels. So it sharpens all chains with the 10 degree angle. My first electric sharpener was a Silvey 300. I do semi chisel at 30 degrees and full chisel at 25 degrees. I started with a Sthil fg2 before going to electric sharpeners.
FG 2 filing tool - FG 2 filing tool: Sharpen saw chains precisely and professionally
STIHL FG 2 filing tool for professional saw chain maintenance: On a table or workbench ✓ Good sharpening result ✓ Buy now!www.stihl.com
Most of everything my customers are cutting is dead ash and 020 works best fir them. On my personal chains i run rakers at 030. I have 2 saws with 25" bars and i have 12 full chisel chains for bucking lots of big ash. I have a 36" bar but i ain't man enough to lug that around long before my back says "NO".That should be .025 for the rakers (depth gauges) on 3/8lp and .325 chains but .030 does better on 3/8 std chains.
Just thank the former president for adding those European tariffs along with Russia/Ukraine war, Covid 19, and the all the generated inflation. The European tariffs were primarily on Steel and Aluminum products. The current president just ended those tariffs in October and it will take time for things to get back to normal again. Some items of the new agreement will not even take place until January 2023. On top of that Stihl is having find new source for parts that were made in the Ukraine factories; therefore, their production costs will raise.