Ain't what they used to be, notice where they are now made...Bought a new MS271 yesterday. $500 friggin bucks. Apparently Stihl's don't even come with a case now a days. The guy threw in a file.
Just thank the former president for adding those European tariffs along with Russia/Ukraine war, Covid 19, and the all the generated inflation. The European tariffs were primarily on Steel and Aluminum products. The current president just ended those tariffs in October and it will take time for things to get back to normal again. Some items of the new agreement will not even take place until January 2023. On top of that Stihl is having find new source for parts that were made in the Ukraine factories; therefore, their production costs will raise.
Them creamsicles be getting expensiveBought a new MS271 yesterday. $500 friggin bucks. Apparently Stihl's don't even come with a case now a days. The guy threw in a file.
Got to be carefully on chains. As it depends what bar specs are. Oregon and Sabre chains are around $30 retail for this saw. Just be thankful that you are not wanting a carbide tipped chain. They are about 5X the price or more. I paid $140 cost for a 18" 3/8lp chain about 6 yrs ago.16 inch chain is $36.95
Got to be carefully on chains. As it depends what bar specs are. Oregon and Sabre chains are around $30 retail for this saw. Just be thankful that you are not wanting a carbide tipped chain. They are about 5X the price or more. I paid $140 cost for a 18" 3/8lp chain about 6 yrs ago.
There is pitch, gauge, tooth style, and DL count. Also the Stihl bar is most likely shorter than labeled. Several I installed were nearly an inch shorter what they claimed if you measure as they show how to measure them.
But anyways the 16" MS271 appears to use the .325 .063 67DL BNC setup which can be either semi chisel or chisel tooth. Then of there is a safety version or Pro version. There is also a few other options but they are not common. Like ripping vs crosscut chains.
It has the metal caps you need to remove to adjust the carb.
If you are going to service chainsaws you really need to study up on chains and get real chain grinder. One issue you will have is that finding parts lists for most saws. A good way to get some good saw knowledge is to buy one of the stihl clone kits from HL supply and spend some Utube time learning and putting it together. A box of parts with no directions.
On the side of the bar will be markings telling pitch, gauge and drive links. Probably a semi chisel safety chain. Which i hate.
I picked up a trick from a riding palI was looking for markings on my 08S, but didn't see any. .
As far as servicing saws, 99% of my customers have only had carburetor problems. Or a bad bearing. I did a crank seal last year.
But you are correct. I'm in an area that's heavily populated with loggers and firewood guys. So I'm going to have to learn more about them.
My 08S and my MS 180C are about to go on my bench and get my full attention.
I was looking for markings on my 08S, but didn't see any. .
As far as servicing saws, 99% of my customers have only had carburetor problems. Or a bad bearing. I did a crank seal last year.
But you are correct. I'm in an area that's heavily populated with loggers and firewood guys. So I'm going to have to learn more about them.
You got an 08S? I would clean that thing up and make it a wall hanger.
My 08S and my MS 180C are about to go on my bench and get my full attention.
Most of the Oregon grinders are made in italy by Tecomec. Most of them are capacitor start motors and if you spin it backwards fast enough then turn it on they will run backwards. I have been looking for a DPDT switch that is the same size as the existing one so i can make it reversing like they used to be before the government made them "better". If you do lots of chains the CBN wheels are great but if you use them on dirty chains they will clog up and leave a big burr. A quick application of brake cleaner on a rag fixes that. You would be suprised how many people hand file their chains but never adjust the rakers.I hand sharpen chains for years until I ran into 8 chains took at least 8 new files out and left me with blisters. I now use an Oregon chain grinder but started with what turned out to be a piece of junk chain grinder sold by HFT. Just after a few months it was so sloppy I was having finish the chains by hand. When I got my Oregon grinder, the HFT one went into the trash after I took it apart.
Now using a chain grinder does have a learning curve as manufacture and chain style has different grinding profiles. But most are either 55/30/0 or 55/25/0. Some OEM chain specs wanting a 10 degree down angle but you can use the zero down angle. And depth gauges also need to check after all the cutters are done. Now on a rare occasion I do get rip chains which are usually done 55/10/0.
The main problem with grinder sharpen is the sharper operator tries to go too fast or take off too much at once. When they do they blue the cutters and harden so much that no one can hand sharpen the chains later.
Now the grinder will a slight flake burr on LH cutters which cause by the stone only turning one way. Most of that comes when the chain first touches wood. There are some more expensive units that have reverse grinding mode. About any these grinder can have a reverse added if you know how and don't modifying the electrical as the motor is a DC motor. It more a safety issue as to why most don't have reverse just something breaks off.
I use a Silvey 510 which has the bidirectional motor and the 10 degree down angle built into the system with the CBN wheels. So it sharpens all chains with the 10 degree angle. My first electric sharpener was a Silvey 300. I do semi chisel at 30 degrees and full chisel at 25 degrees. I started with a Sthil fg2 before going to electric sharpeners.I hand sharpen chains for years until I ran into 8 chains took at least 8 new files out and left me with blisters. I now use an Oregon chain grinder but started with what turned out to be a piece of junk chain grinder sold by HFT. Just after a few months it was so sloppy I was having finish the chains by hand. When I got my Oregon grinder, the HFT one went into the trash after I took it apart.
Now using a chain grinder does have a learning curve as manufacture and chain style has different grinding profiles. But most are either 55/30/0 or 55/25/0. Some OEM chain specs wanting a 10 degree down angle but you can use the zero down angle. And depth gauges also need to check after all the cutters are done. Now on a rare occasion I do get rip chains which are usually done 55/10/0.
The main problem with grinder sharpen is the sharper operator tries to go too fast or take off too much at once. When they do they blue the cutters and harden so much that no one can hand sharpen the chains later.
Now the grinder will a slight flake burr on LH cutters which cause by the stone only turning one way. Most of that comes when the chain first touches wood. There are some more expensive units that have reverse grinding mode. About any these grinder can have a reverse added if you know how and don't modifying the electrical as the motor is a DC motor. It more a safety issue as to why most don't have reverse just something breaks off.
Silvey made a nice machine. Not many of them around me. I have 2 of the oregon 620 hydraulic grinders. One is set up just to do rakers as i am lazy and tired of changing wheels. I may buy a third one to setup for 2 different wheel thicknesses. Most chains are at 55 and 30 with rakers at .020 unless customer wants something different.I use a Silvey 510 which has the bidirectional motor and the 10 degree down angle built into the system with the CBN wheels. So it sharpens all chains with the 10 degree angle. My first electric sharpener was a Silvey 300. I do semi chisel at 30 degrees and full chisel at 25 degrees. I started with a Sthil fg2 before going to electric sharpeners.
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Most of everything my customers are cutting is dead ash and 020 works best fir them. On my personal chains i run rakers at 030. I have 2 saws with 25" bars and i have 12 full chisel chains for bucking lots of big ash. I have a 36" bar but i ain't man enough to lug that around long before my back says "NO".That should be .025 for the rakers (depth gauges) on 3/8lp and .325 chains but .030 does better on 3/8 std chains.
Just thank the former president for adding those European tariffs along with Russia/Ukraine war, Covid 19, and the all the generated inflation. The European tariffs were primarily on Steel and Aluminum products. The current president just ended those tariffs in October and it will take time for things to get back to normal again. Some items of the new agreement will not even take place until January 2023. On top of that Stihl is having find new source for parts that were made in the Ukraine factories; therefore, their production costs will raise.
That what I have seen for years myself as independent voter. From the outside it looks like a bunch of spoiled brats frighting over a cookie to me.We all like to blame the sector we do not like for the problems we suffer from .
Reds will blame the blues for everything and Blues will do the opposite as if politicians were actually in control