Fuel

Projectnut

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Another vote for NON-Ethanol gas. Over the years I have accumulated nearly 2 dozen gas powered pieces of yard care equipment. The collection includes weed eaters, edgers, rototillers, lawn mowers, chain saws, snow blowers, hedge trimmers, garden tractors and a few other tools. When ethanol gas became mandatory, I was rebuilding carburetors and replacing gas lines on an annual basis. It got so bad that I was stocking carburetor kits and buying different sizes of gas line by the 50-foot spool.

It was a royal never-ending PITA. After a few years the non-ethanol variety came back in our area as "recreational" gas mainly to be used in outboards, snowmobiles and ATV's. I immediately switched and the carb and fuel line problems went away. Some places have only premium grade while others have regular. Both seem to work well without destroying fuel systems. Premium is a bit more expensive, but still a real time saver since I don't have to deal with rebuilding carbs and replacing fuel lines. The fuel lines stay flexible, and the carbs don't gum up. I add a little Stabil to each when I retire them for the season and have no trouble starting them the next time they're needed.

If at all possible, I'll never use ethanol gas again in any engine under 40 hp.
 

1fordpickup1

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I Have working on small engines since 1955. I have never bought the first gallon of non ethenol fuel and I have never read an owners manual or never seen a gas cap that said to use non ethenol fuel. We sell Stihl, Honda, Exmark, and Scag.
 

rhiebert

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Is it really worth the extra price (Over a dollar a gallon extra) to get ethanol free fuel for mowers? I have a 18 hp Briggs & Stratton engine engine on my riding mower, I have a small small push mower and I have a 2-cycle weedeater. I’m in south Alabama, 65 miles from the coast. The past several years, I’ve cranked up the weed-eater during the off growing season just to polish up what I may not have weed-eater earlier – just to run it for a little bit. I may or may not do that for the push mower. The riding mower is used to drag limbs to a burn pile so it gets cranked every so often in the ‘cold’ season. We’re not long out of growing season and we don’t have really cold winters.
I’m just wondering if there’s something I can do different or is there just no reason for the non-Ethynol fuel at my location.
I appreciate your thoughts and time!
 

rhiebert

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Is it really worth the extra price (Over a dollar a gallon extra) to get ethanol free fuel for mowers? I have a 18 hp Briggs & Stratton engine engine on my riding mower, I have a small small push mower and I have a 2-cycle weed-eater. I’m in south Alabama, 65 miles from the coast. The past several years, I’ve cranked up the weed-eater during the off growing season just to polish up what I may not have weed-eater earlier – just to run it for a little bit. I may or may not do that for the push mower. The riding mower is used to drag limbs to a burn pile so it gets cranked every so often in the ‘cold’ season. We’re not long out of growing season and we don’t have really cold winters.
I’m just wondering if there’s something I can do different or is there just no reason for the non-ethynol fuel at my location.
I appreciate your thoughts and time!
 

rhiebert

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Gas with ethanol will create water so my suggestion would be to use a fuel additive and quality synthetic engine oil.
 

Belmoresr

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I only use ethanol free gasoline for all of my small engines. It cost more per gallon but I think (I do not have hard data) that the lifecycle cost for the use of the equipment is less. Further, the engines always start an run good even if that have been sitting for a few months. Ethanol can damage a two cycle engine as the ethanol can separate out (phase separation) and you will seriously damage the engine. On the four cycle engines, I have replaced carburetors after years of use of ethanol gasoline but the engines run for years with no issues if I only use ethanol free gasoline. I also treat all of my small engine ethanol free gasoline with Schaeffer Oil Neutra™ Fuel Stabilizer (https://www.schaefferoil.com/neutra.html). There may be other additives from Schaeffer's or others that work, too.

Bottom line: I only use ethanol free gasoline treated with Schaeffer's Neutra Fuel Stabilizer and I have nearly zero engine fuel related issues on multiple engine types and brands. I go through a lot of gasoline in the summer on the ranch. My experience with this is over many years.
I 100% agree, except I use STABIL vs. Schaefer’s. Never had a fuel related issue since going completely to ethanol free gas and STABIL. BE
 

rutbuster1

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On riding mowers and push mowers (if you have room), just install a fuel cut-off valve. When you're through with cutting grass or whatever and park it, turn off the cut-off valve and let it run till it shuts off. Ethanol problem solved. I use my equipment enough year round and really don't have to worry too much about ethanol related issues. With 2 stroke equipment, it depends on how often it's used. If it's going to be stored for months either use non-ethanol, canned fuel, or pour out the gas and run the equipment till it quits. You can also use a gas stabilizer. I put stabilizer in my fuel whether it's non ethanol or not. Eventually, regardless what you do, you'll have carb related issues a time or two.
 

edporch

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Since I began using ethanol free gasoline in all of my lawn equipment and saws several years ago, I've had zero carburetor trouble.
No more gallons than it takes to power my stuff, the extra cost isn't an issue with the 3.5 acres I mow.
PLUS, it's available at many filling stations at the pump (I never buy those cans from the stores of it).
Here's a list of a lot of them around the country.
 

grumpyunk

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You can cause the ethanol to separate out of your E10. Just add water. The ETOH will combine with the water and fall to the bottom of the fuel container. Decant the ethanol-free gasoline that lies atop the water and you have fuel without ethanol.
Try it with a jar of fuel, adding some water, and you will see the ETOH fall to the bottom. There are YT videos on the procedure. It is useful if you have no local sources of ETOH free fuel and want to run without its effects. Most older equipment is more subject to damage to 'rubber' parts than newer as the ETOH can/will start to break down the rubber. I have seen fuel line on an AYP that looked perfect externally, but was totally coming apart inside. Took a while to figure out why it would not flow fuel very well... a hidden feature.
tom
 
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