Fuel

[Skippydiesel]

Some older engines fuel metering & supply systems will be damaged by ethanol in the fuel.- - do not use ethanol blends.
Many modern engines will run just fine on ethanol blends (see owners manual for recommendations).

Long Term Storage (in excess of 2 months)
If there is any danger of fuel aging to the point of "varnishing" the fuel metering system or separating out (free water);
Drain ALL the fuel from the tank to the metering (injectors/carburettor bowl). This is the cheapest, surest way of minimising in storage fuel systems.
When ready to use engine again, refuel with nice clean, fresh fuel - make sure its being supplied to the metering system. (Freshly charged battery, if required) start in usual way - almost all engines will spring to life without any problem.

 

[Tbone0106]

"Putting corn likker into our gas tanks is truly one of the dumbest things our national government has ever come up with." Consider that it might not be dumb. It might be corruption. What if it is a way to launder taxpayer money? Cargill likes the program so much they give a lot of taxpayer sourced money to both parties in DC. Also, I measured the ethanol content (it is 0-10%) in the gasoline (it is not hard to do) for my car for a while and determined that it would reduce my mpg by up to 20% (My Corolla would drop from 40 mpg to 32 mpg hwy). If I know that, the EPA knows that.

Of course the EPA knows it. In recent years, the EPA has required so much ethanol to be blended into the fuel supply that the fuel supply literally can't take it all. As cars and trucks become more fuel-efficient, fuel production has fallen far short of EPA estimates, and there's no place to put the ethanol. If it weren't so sad and expensive, it would be entertaining.

Based on energy content, a 10% ethanol blend would drop your mileage by 3-4%. (Of course, the EPA never mentions this.) I'm surprised by your findings.

 

[hdsport]

Yes, this has been a very controversial topic over the years.
There are two aspects to this issue: personal / professional experience and chemistry.
Simply put, experience has demonstrated that ethanol gas does damage small engine components.
Next, the corrosive capacity of ethanol in the small engine system is well documented.
I'm not going to elaborate on these topics....you all have read and sometimes have experienced the negative effects of ethanol gas.

Several years ago I switched to non-ethanol gas in all of my small engines.
NO problems since...all start easily, even after sitting over the winter.
I have documented one thig. I used to have to stop mowing to add more ethanol gas to my push mower before I finished cutting my lawn.
Switched to non-ethanol and now I cut my complete lawn and still have gas left over in the tank.

No need to discuss this further. We all know the political and economical concerns that drive this.

I will continue to pay a little more to use non-ethanol gas for all of my 2 and 4 cycle needs.
In the 'long run', it is really more economical. The few $'s that I save at the pump doesn't compare the the problems that result and the personal time involved.

Your engine, your time, your money. Your Call.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

My ️ is better than scrubs ️

 

[Shady oak]

I use non ethanol 91 octane in two cycle stuff with Sea Foam. Since starting that concept 15 yrs ago non of that equipment has ever seen the inside of a repair shop. Recently sold a Jonsrud string trimmer that had sat for about 6 yrs. Added fresh gas and it started right up. For regular use 4 cycle engines I use 87 octane 10% ethanol no lead. No Seafoam and no problems!

 

[TC25Dave]

Is it really worth the extra price (Over a dollar a gallon extra) to get ethanol free fuel for mowers? I have a 18 hp Briggs & Stratton engine engine on my riding mower, I have a small small push mower and I have a 2-cycle weedeater. I’m in south Alabama, 65 miles from the coast. The past several years, I’ve cranked up the weedeater during the off growing season just to polish up what I may not have weed-eated earlier – just to run it for a little bit. I may or may not do that for the push mower. The riding mower is used to drag limbs to a burn pile so it gets cranked every so often in the ‘cold’ season. We’re not long out of growing season and we don’t have really cold winters.
I’m just wondering if there’s something I can do different or is there just no reason for the non-ethynol fuel at my location.
I appreciate your thoughts and time!

Life is short. You should absolutely use non-ethanol in your small engines and avoid all the maintenance problems that the U.S. government has foisted upon you by insisting that alcohol be added to gasoline. They are not your friend, and they are not here to help you!

 

[bitdemon]

I've just replaced a car fuel tank that had the pickup tube completely rusted up and covered in blackish mold-like substance. It had been unused and in the shed for about a year or so. The fuel gauge sender looked like something out of a horror movie. I 100% put this down to E10 and the internet backs me up on this.
In infrequently used engines, the water and oxygen (which is present not just at the air/liquid interface, but also in the form of dissolved oxygen) can create the perfect environment to grow a type of bacteria called acetobacter. These acetobacter excrete acetic acid causing microbiologically-induced corrosion. Fuel pickup tubes and gauge senders are prime targets. Sulphate-reducing microbes can also be present which will be evidenced by blackish corrosion products in affected areas.
So, what can you do? E10 isn’t a favorite of older engines anyway, so it isn’t likely that you would intentionally put these fuels in long-sitters or even those that are only unused during winter. Filling the tank to minimize any possible room for condensation to form, which occurs irrespective of the fuel type, helps but perhaps the most important thing you can do is to add a fuel stabilizer. As well as minimizing the evaporation of short-chain aromatics that causes fuel to go 'stale', they often contain biocides preventing the growth of the bacteria primarily responsible for corrosion. Check the label - it could save a lot of headaches in time!

 

[ran440]

Not sure anyone mentioned damage to soft parts. Your engines may run on ethanol laced fuels, but as long as you are running it it is doing damage to your fuel lines, o-rings, seals and diaphragms. All soft parts. Ever wonder why your fuel lines on your line trimmer can snap like a stick? Or a diaphragm that has no flex at all? For many years now I have used nothing but rec-fuel and Seafoam and recommend the same to all my customers.

 

[Grasswhore]

I use non ethanol 91 octane in two cycle stuff with Sea Foam. Since starting that concept 15 yrs ago non of that equipment has ever seen the inside of a repair shop. Recently sold a Jonsrud string trimmer that had sat for about 6 yrs. Added fresh gas and it started right up. For regular use 4 cycle engines I use 87 octane 10% ethanol no lead. No Seafoam and no problems!

Go to You Tube and watch Taryl Fixes All, he did a 19 month real time test of ethanol fuel and additives for same. The conclusion is ethanol free fuel, alone, is fine for 6 months too 2 years. 10% ethanol fuel starts to do bad things after 6 months no matter what you add. Even they were surprised how ineffective sea foam was. I consider this a must watch video even if you don't like the silliness. His test method was very sound and real life relatable

 

[Freddie21]

I have watched many tests being done on the subject of ethanol and additives. My take-away is the it takes over a year for the ethanol to separate out and gel up. Most additives do nothing for that. Ethanol free gas does not gel. So, for my 4 cycle engines I use regular 87 octane gas and add Stable 360 in the Winter for my own peace of mind. I use the same in my 2 strokes but for seldom use units (chain saws), I run them dry and empty the tank. Trimmers I have gone battery.