FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.

Martepm

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
Fish, thanks for pic's. Without specialized micrometers & such tools, measuring down to .01" on outside flywheel dia movement seems to be not that important. Am I wrong on this point? Is it that critical? Again, I submit TDC as close as I can get it without high tech measuring tool.
It may be 1/8 or 1/16th off flywheel O.D. for TDC.
Am I correct in this thinking? Can't believe that small of a measurement would not make a motor run.
JMHO.
 

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Fish

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
It doesn't take being off by much.

Are those aftermarket parts?
I have never seen an e-z start fs38/45/55 around here.
 

bertsmobile1

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
Thanks for the photos Fish
And I think that nails it
Martepm's magnets are at lease 5 deg out of time if his engine was actually at TDC when he took the photo.
Timing on these engines is critical because of the very short stroke

Mart,
To get TDC very accurately you do not need any measuring tools
You need a bolt with the same thread as the spark plug , a sharpie type fine point marking pen and a dressmakers measuring tape , although the latter can be replaced with a piece of string .
Method
1) bring the piston up near TDC then screw the bolt in till it touches the piston
Mark the flywheel with the sharpie against some index point on the engine that is thin and can not move .
Rotate the engine backwards till the piston hits the bolt again and make another mark
TDC will be 1/2 way between these 2 marks which is what the measuring tape is for .
Alternate method
Screw the bolt in till it touches the piston and make your mark as before
Rotate backwards and make your mark
Rotate foreward a little and move the bolt 1 flat further in then repeat
Keep on doing this thill the piston stops at the same point backwards & forwards
If using this method it works best to stick a piece of masking tape on the flywheel so the lines are clearer
And some different colours helps as when you get near TDC there will be a lot of lines very close together .
 

bertsmobile1

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
FWIW
THE spark is timed by a chip inside the coil that measures the voltage being generated in the coil and when it gets to a specific vale the circuit triggers the spark .
This method of timing the spark. called a Hall Effect Trigger automatically advances the spark as the engine speed increases because the rising rate of a coil is proportional to the speed that the magnets are moving past the legs .
As mentioned previously the spark at cranking speeds is marginal at best so if it comes slightly out of time then no bang .
Way back in post # 9 I asked for tests & laid out how I treat threads here so for me it is bye-bye till what I asked for has been done & the results posted .
 

Martepm

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
"Martepm's magnets are at lease 5 deg out of time if his engine was actually at TDC when he took the photo."

Yes Bert, had a "marked nail" in cylinder while moving piston up/down & took the pic when movement was centered between both movements. Precisely done I will add with eyesight, no guessing involved.
Thx. Will follow up tomorrow on your procedure & advise..... 👍
 

Martepm

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
FWIW
THE spark is timed by a chip inside the coil that measures the voltage being generated in the coil and when it gets to a specific vale the circuit triggers the spark .
This method of timing the spark. called a Hall Effect Trigger automatically advances the spark as the engine speed increases because the rising rate of a coil is proportional to the speed that the magnets are moving past the legs .
As mentioned previously the spark at cranking speeds is marginal at best so if it comes slightly out of time then no bang .
Way back in post # 9 I asked for tests & laid out how I treat threads here so for me it is bye-bye till what I asked for has been done & the results posted .
Yes Bert, I understand your position. I think like you do. (Don't waste my time with brain-dead idiots!)
I still have your printed-out post with instructions here on my desk.

Not to discount your info & helpfulness, but have had & still have duties around here as a rural home owner.
In this case & lately, gathering refuge, recycling & yard waste into the truck to take to the dump. Usually once a month.

FYI, I am not a repair shop for these things, just a simple home owner on retirement trying to fix & sell some equipment.
I hope you'll allow me some time to dive back into this issue.

I have responded to others when questions arose to be continuative on the problem. I still have to get things done as you requested/instructed.

This project has captivated my mind. I want to resolve and learn from it & perhaps make a few $'s from it if I can.
Thx for your patience.
 

Fish

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
Manual.
 

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Martepm

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
Thx fish, looking at flywheel area chapter now.
Time to thaw dinner. Will pick-up in morning.
 

Fish

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
It doesn't discuss the flywheel much, but the manual will become useful.
 

Martepm

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
Thx.
 
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