FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.

StarTech

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
Insufficiently torquing the flywheel, it will just shear again.
The clutch carrier is torqued to 12.5 ft/lbs.
 

Martepm

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
Thanks guy's.
The flywheel does indeed turn clockwise. That was checked after spinning motor with drill & noticing fuel mist from exhaust after pouring fuel in cylinder & replacing spark plug. "How can that much fuel expel & not fire-up? Am I spinning in the correct direction?" That's when I checked starter direction. With that in mind, went back to verify magnet position at TDC. What I see is 1st magnet passing "under coil" (clockwise) on compression & 2nd magnet passing under coil at TDC. (TDC is pictured above, pic# 0757) Without being a mathematician in physic's, that tells me the key is in the correct position and magnet timing is correct.
The new flywheel is Stihl's replacement # for previous one. Old one had separate steel sleeve on shaft for clutch to compress flywheel onto shaft. New one has sleeve molded into flywheel. And yes Fish, torqued clutch with as much umph as it took to remove it, maybe more.

Fish, nice trick in video to remove flywheel. However, I used a gear puller. 😅. (tension it up & smack the puller's stud...pop's right off)

After hearing of all the aftermarket parts problems....feeling kinda depressed & looks like I may have wasted a lot of time & $'s. Thinking maybe I should just chuck the thing in the garbage & cut my loss's. However, though my ambitions are diminished, I will continue & perform the test's Bert provided & see where that takes me.
Will advise.
 

Hammermechanicman

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
I will make a suggestion for a test. You need primary compression, (crankcase) secondary compression (cylinder) spark at proper time and a vaporized air fuel mixture.

Remove carb and sparkplug. Turn unit over with plug hole pointing down and pull starter rope about a dozen times to clear any fuel from crankcase and cylinder. Install new sparkplug. Spray a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of starting fluid, not gas and not carb cleaner, into the intake and try to start unit. If it fires you have at least enough primary and secondary compression to run the engine and spark at the proper time. If it doesn't fire you either have bad crank seals, scored or worn cylinder and rings or spark at wrong time.
 

Martepm

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
Thx.
That was all done/coverd in 1st post. Not a hint of any attempt to start.
 

Fish

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
Where are the magnets at TDC?
 

Martepm

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
This is TDC as precisely as I can make it..
Thx.
 

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StarTech

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
Thanks guy's.
The flywheel does indeed turn clockwise. That was checked after spinning motor with drill & noticing fuel mist from exhaust after pouring fuel in cylinder & replacing spark plug. "How can that much fuel expel & not fire-up? Am I spinning in the correct direction?" That's when I checked starter direction. With that in mind, went back to verify magnet position at TDC. What I see is 1st magnet passing "under coil" (clockwise) on compression & 2nd magnet passing under coil at TDC. (TDC is pictured above, pic# 0757) Without being a mathematician in physic's, that tells me the key is in the correct position and magnet timing is correct.
The new flywheel is Stihl's replacement # for previous one. Old one had separate steel sleeve on shaft for clutch to compress flywheel onto shaft. New one has sleeve molded into flywheel. And yes Fish, torqued clutch with as much umph as it took to remove it, maybe more.

Fish, nice trick in video to remove flywheel. However, I used a gear puller. 😅. (tension it up & smack the puller's stud...pop's right off)

After hearing of all the aftermarket parts problems....feeling kinda depressed & looks like I may have wasted a lot of time & $'s. Thinking maybe I should just chuck the thing in the garbage & cut my loss's. However, though my ambitions are diminished, I will continue & perform the test's Bert provided & see where that takes me.
Will advise.
This is relative to which you are looking the flywheel. From the drive clutch side it turns CCW; from the recoil starter side it is CW.

Also being 2 cycle you can't if spinning the right just looking at the exhaust mist. When 2 cycle is properly in some equipment the engine can run either way; especially in golf carts.
 

Fish

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
tdc 001.JPGtdc 002.JPGtdc 003.JPG
 

Martepm

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  • / FS55RC, extensive t/shooting & repairs done. Dang it...still won't start. Long read, apologies.
Gentleman, to eliminate further questions about rotation, I submit this pic. Starter rope pulls from left side & motor turns clockwise.
I feel some of you haven't read my 1st post thoroughly.
Would it be possible to eliminate this rotation issue & move on?
Thx again for all the input.
 

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