bertsmobile1
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That is why we want the photos
Front axle bushing
- Thread starter CLStout
- Start date
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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We need to see the entire cross member from a distance so we can see if there is deformation in the frame
We need to see close up of the bush showing the play
We need to see both contact faces on the frame to see if there is excessive wear
You also need to loosen the front & back mounting plates , that the cross member sits between to see if there is an adjustment
From the IPL the rear looks as if it is fixed
IF there was originally a plastic bush it could have had a thicker flange section to prevent the flange snapping off .
And I need the serial number off the ID tag so I can look at the Ariens IPL from the Ariens web page rather than the equivalent model Husqvarna as there can be subtlee differences apart from the colour
We need to see close up of the bush showing the play
We need to see both contact faces on the frame to see if there is excessive wear
You also need to loosen the front & back mounting plates , that the cross member sits between to see if there is an adjustment
From the IPL the rear looks as if it is fixed
IF there was originally a plastic bush it could have had a thicker flange section to prevent the flange snapping off .
And I need the serial number off the ID tag so I can look at the Ariens IPL from the Ariens web page rather than the equivalent model Husqvarna as there can be subtlee differences apart from the colour
Try this again, using my laptop. The frame doesn't seem to be damaged, and the wear to the axle and the frame seems negligable. But, if it weren't for the frame, the axle would shift back and forth much more than it does currently. The pivot bolt is tight, but there's a lot more movement than I'm comfortable. But you folks are the experts, so I will await your response.
Thanks
Thanks
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bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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That looks about right
Remember these are mowers nor Nas Car Racers so the governing factor is cheapness not precision .
IF the cross member does not roll when you turn the steering wheel or rock see saw fashion then the bush and cross member is fine
The usual problem comes from bashing into things like garden / lawn concreter edging , tree roots etc
This bends the tie rods which for cheapness have no adjustment
I have just finished repairing extreme toe in for a pensioner who is too blind to be allowed to drive a car.
As he is in his 90's the idea of replacing the tie rods at over $ 100 a piece so they got pulled off, bent a bit replaced, tried removed & bent again till the toe in was acceptable .
The rods are 5/8" and can be tapped to 5/8 unf but you need a high speed steel split die to do it as they have been hardened and after a couple of cuts the die will be blunt & need sharpening so it isa case of opening the die as far as you can taking a well lubed cut then closing the die a little waiting a 1/2 hour for the link to cool & repeat till you have enough thread depth for the tie rod end to screw in tight , WHEN THE ROD IS COLD , the first time I did not allow the rod to cool so ended up with a sloppy fit
You need to cut about 2" off the end of the tie rod.
I think the rods are a lot cheaper in the USA than they are here
The other "fix" I have used is to cut 1/2 out of the middle . thread both ends and use an "Extender Nut" ( or joining bush ).
This is cheaper because you use the original sloppy cheap ball joints at either end formed into the rod .
Remember these are mowers nor Nas Car Racers so the governing factor is cheapness not precision .
IF the cross member does not roll when you turn the steering wheel or rock see saw fashion then the bush and cross member is fine
The usual problem comes from bashing into things like garden / lawn concreter edging , tree roots etc
This bends the tie rods which for cheapness have no adjustment
I have just finished repairing extreme toe in for a pensioner who is too blind to be allowed to drive a car.
As he is in his 90's the idea of replacing the tie rods at over $ 100 a piece so they got pulled off, bent a bit replaced, tried removed & bent again till the toe in was acceptable .
The rods are 5/8" and can be tapped to 5/8 unf but you need a high speed steel split die to do it as they have been hardened and after a couple of cuts the die will be blunt & need sharpening so it isa case of opening the die as far as you can taking a well lubed cut then closing the die a little waiting a 1/2 hour for the link to cool & repeat till you have enough thread depth for the tie rod end to screw in tight , WHEN THE ROD IS COLD , the first time I did not allow the rod to cool so ended up with a sloppy fit
You need to cut about 2" off the end of the tie rod.
I think the rods are a lot cheaper in the USA than they are here
The other "fix" I have used is to cut 1/2 out of the middle . thread both ends and use an "Extender Nut" ( or joining bush ).
This is cheaper because you use the original sloppy cheap ball joints at either end formed into the rod .
May I ask where you are?
I just bought both drag links, and with shipping was under $50.00. These are the OEM pieces. From Ariens they were cheaper than some other suppliers.
Have you seen the adjustable drag links? The rod is threaded on both ends, and has threaded ball joints at each end. I considered purchasing those, they were much more expensive.
The cross member doesn't roll when the wheels are turned. There's not enough room in the frame for that. However, it does seesaw very easily when I raise the front wheels off the ground.
I just bought both drag links, and with shipping was under $50.00. These are the OEM pieces. From Ariens they were cheaper than some other suppliers.
Have you seen the adjustable drag links? The rod is threaded on both ends, and has threaded ball joints at each end. I considered purchasing those, they were much more expensive.
The cross member doesn't roll when the wheels are turned. There's not enough room in the frame for that. However, it does seesaw very easily when I raise the front wheels off the ground.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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Australia
Mower parts down here are very expensive
Not as bad as the UK but a lot more expensive than the USA
In fact JD parts down here are the cheapest & I often fit JD parts to non JD mowers because they can be up to 30% less than the exact same part in a different coloured bag.
The cross member should pilot around the bush so the wheels can go up & down
By See Saw I meant twisting so one side goes forward while the other side goes back when you turn the steering wheel like the billy cart you built when you were a child .
In fact I might now call it billy carting as most will visualize that easier .
Mower parts down here are very expensive
Not as bad as the UK but a lot more expensive than the USA
In fact JD parts down here are the cheapest & I often fit JD parts to non JD mowers because they can be up to 30% less than the exact same part in a different coloured bag.
The cross member should pilot around the bush so the wheels can go up & down
By See Saw I meant twisting so one side goes forward while the other side goes back when you turn the steering wheel like the billy cart you built when you were a child .
In fact I might now call it billy carting as most will visualize that easier .
