ECH749-3016 Stuck flywheel

[PTmowerMech]

This is on a scag 61. Horizontal engine.

Only one place to get a prybar under the fly wheel at, being there's not much room without taking the intake off. So with the one place to pry from, using the snap-on air hammer, didn't do the trick. So I've got the puller on it, and using the tire shops snap-on 1/2" impact. And still nothing.
Just wondering, (I've applied penetrating oi) if I keep the puller attached, with a lot of pressure on it, will that usually free it up? I've never had any luck with it getting easier when doing the same process with rear axle wheels.

I've gotta change the front crank seal.

 

[StarTech]

Are you using a harmonic balancer puller? If so tighten down good and tight then with a brass hammer (2lb or larger) give the center forcing screw a good smack. It may several times tightening and smacking but it should come off the taper. Probably someone over torqued the retaining screw.

Kinda wish there was a four point version.

 

[PTmowerMech]

Are you using a harmonic balancer puller? If so tighten down good and tight then with a brass hammer (2lb or larger) give the center forcing screw a good smack. It may several times tightening and smacking but it should come off the taper. Probably someone over torqued the retaining screw.

Kinda wish there was a four point version.

I had to use the 1/2 impact to get the center bolt loose.

I've used the big air hammer on the center puller stud, and still nothing yet.

The puller I'm using, i'm not sure what it's for. It's the same ones you get off the shelf at the parts stores. I've used it a few times before @bertsmobile1 told me about the air hammer, pry bar trick. I've never had this much trouble out of a flywheel.

 

[StarTech]

This is the puller that is listed in the service manual which is a harmonic pulley puller type.

 

[bertsmobile1]

In that case it will be heat and lots of it.
How did you do up the puller ?
I have found doing it up with the impact driver works wonders to shift over tightened tapers.
back it off to just finger tight, cook the flywheel, take your time or it will crack the when sizzleing spit hot hit the puller with the impact gun.
No joy then go with the pry bar & hammer while the puller is in place.

NB too much heat can soften the glue holding the alternator magnets on so check them very carefully when you get it off

 

[PTmowerMech]

This is the puller that is listed in the service manual which is a harmonic pulley puller type.
View attachment 55431

It looks almost exactly like that. Just didn't come in the case. It's doing it's job. Except the impact I'm using is starting to bend the smaller bolts that screw into flywheel.

 

[StarTech]

Yelp it happens. over the years I replace several of the those screw. Most that comes with the kits are just barely a grade 5.

One thing to note from the service manual is that if the engine has a high amp stator the magnets are going to be extra strong.

 

[cpurvis]

I had to use the 1/2 impact to get the center bolt loose.

I've used the big air hammer on the center puller stud, and still nothing yet.

The puller I'm using, i'm not sure what it's for. It's the same ones you get off the shelf at the parts stores. I've used it a few times before @bertsmobile1 told me about the air hammer, pry bar trick. I've never had this much trouble out of a flywheel.

What is this 'big air hammer' of which you speak? The aforementioned 2 lb brass hammer used to give the center bolt a good whack is the best tool for that job. If you can feel any end play in the crankshaft, pull it toward you so that there is a little room for the crankshaft to move when the hammer hits the center bolt. It's the inertia of the flywheel that will pop it loose because it wants to stay still while the crank is trying to pull it toward the engine. True, the thrust bearing doesn't like this. But pounding on it with no clearance doesn't do it a lot of good, either.

The puller doesn't have to be all that tight and you don't have to hit it all that hard. Let physics do its work.

 

[PTmowerMech]

In that case it will be heat and lots of it.
How did you do up the puller ?
I have found doing it up with the impact driver works wonders to shift over tightened tapers.
back it off to just finger tight, cook the flywheel, take your time or it will crack the when sizzleing spit hot hit the puller with the impact gun.
No joy then go with the pry bar & hammer while the puller is in place.

NB too much heat can soften the glue holding the alternator magnets on so check them very carefully when you get it off

How did I "do up the puller?" I put it on normally. Used a different screw for the center, that threaded in just right, tightened by hand, the used the 3/8's air impact. That didn't work, so I used my POS 1/2". That didn't work. So then I got the good 1/2" from the tire shop side. Did that til the small bolts started bending. Then noticed it was also bending the bolt I had inside the crank. Luckily, that screwed back out easily. So I put the original bolt back in. BTW, I'm leaving enough slack in that bolt, so if the flywheel does come loose, I has about 1/8th" to move.

I tried the heat thing, just a few minutes ago. It didn't work, both times. I don't really have a good place to pry on and smack it. Gonna try the heat one more time. BTW, when you say "spit sizzle," I'm guessing you're not talking about getting it glowing red. I did get it hot and keep it that way for a few minutes. So how that one of the thin places close to the center glowed for a couple of seconds. I'm trying to keep the torched focused in on the thick center around the crank bolt.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Spitsizzle down here means around 200 C
When you spit on the part the spit can not touch it so it sort of dances over the surface till it has boiled off .

Looks like you are getting a reputation for the guy to take hopeless cases to ,