Drive pedal does not move tractor fwd or back

[Pebbles2020]

Hi all,

Last mow I noticed the drive pedal when engaged in reverse was very slow, however fwd operated normally regardless of when the blade deck was on.

Today, the mower started fine and after about 10 minutes of normal use both fwd and in reverse the drive pedal stopped working completely. The belt is tight, the pedal seems to have normal tension, the fan also has expected tension when I manually turn it (gently) and the back pin freely moves the lever in n out. The thing simply won’t move when engaging the pedal and I am stuck.

Any thoughts before I spend the $ for service?

 

[Scrubcadet10]

What is the model # of the tractor, should start with 917. or 243.
usually on a sticker under the seat.

 

[Pebbles2020]

13AQA1Z093

craftsman t240 50 inch, CMXGRAM1130045

 

[Pebbles2020]

well, figured it out, drive belt came off the front pulley, problem is it is in the most inaccessible place under the engine and even up on 12 inch jack cant get in there. no idea why they would make it this way

 

[StarTech]

13AQA1Z093

craftsman t240 50 inch, CMXGRAM1130045

The model CMX number comes back as a T260.


Unless you made a few typos as the T240 is a CMXGRAM1130044 (13APA1ZT093)

You suppose to remove the electric PTO clutch the access the engine drive belt pulley.

 

[Pebbles2020]

The model CMX number comes back as a T260.
View attachment 69803

Unless you made a few typos as the T240 is a CMXGRAM1130044 (13APA1ZT093)

You suppose to remove the electric PTO clutch the access the engine drive belt pulley.

yes that is right t260.

thank you, that looks to be the item directly in the way!

 

[Pebbles2020]

The model CMX number comes back as a T260.
View attachment 69803

Unless you made a few typos as the T240 is a CMXGRAM1130044 (13APA1ZT093)

You suppose to remove the electric PTO clutch the access the engine drive belt pulley.

I have removed the PTO, is the pulley wheel supposed to come down off the shaft as well and that’s how you reset the belt? Maybe I just need to spray penetrating in there and pull it down? it’s accessible now but the guards are pretty close in there is no space to jam the belt back in line

 

[StarTech]

This is when the engine has to be unbolted and moved so the belt can be remove and installed. It is one of my pains with MTD mot using anti-seize compound on these shafts and pulleys. I have had to destroy several pulleys just so I could replace leaking oil seals on Cub Cadet ZTRs.

Luckily most time the drive pulley will slip down and it get reinstalled with anti-seize so the next person don't have to deal with the pulley being stuck.

 

[Pebbles2020]

This is when the engine has to be unbolted and moved so the belt can be remove and installed. It is one of my pains with MTD mot using anti-seize compound on these shafts and pulleys. I have had to destroy several pulleys just so I could replace leaking oil seals on Cub Cadet ZTRs.

Luckily most time the drive pulley will slip down and it get reinstalled with anti-seize so the next person don't have to deal with the pulley being stuck.

Yes I see how to do that with some YouTube help, last blocker is the arm on the idler pulley assembler which makes looping the belt around it impossible. Tension springs are removed I don’t see how to get this on any thoughts?

 

[StarTech]

You have to loose the pulley retaining screw and nut so the pulley can be rocked to one side. Now I don't have a MTD with this setup on the equipment yard as it is the end the mowing season here and I haven't even seen a rider in the shop in the last two weeks other one I restoring for my own use and it is a Husqvarna Craftsman.

Just be careful when tightening back up as a stepped washer is use to allow the idler arm to pivot and you can bind thing up if not properly seated.