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Do you have to be a mechanic to own small engines?
#1
M
MarkF786
M
MarkF786
I'm fairly new to owning a "single family" house, having lived in a townhouse/condo before. With the house comes maintenance and all the gear - and my luck hasn't been the best. It seems small engine devices nowadays (mowers, blower, snow throwers) die quickly and frequently. Maybe it's the gas nowadays, maybe I don't know WTF I'm doing. For example:
- I bought a quality ($200) Husqvarna leaf blower and used it one day in the fall. The next fall came and the thing wouldn't start. It turned out the gas lines had rotted due to leaving gas in it. I then spent a day replacing gas lines.
- I bought a quality ($600) Craftsman snow blower. The first winter, it sat with gas in it but no snow came. I drained the gas. The second winter, it sat again with gas it and I used it one day - and the whole time the engine was 'hunting', revving up and down. I drained the gas. Today, I did maintenance on it, changed the oil, changed the plug, lubed various parts, etc. And the damn engine is still hunting. I guess the carb has gone bad, or maybe just needs a clean, but it's buried deep in the engine so after a day of maintenance, there's not time to fix it today.
It makes me wonder, are small engines built like crap nowadays? Or is the gas so bad that it kills an engine anytime you leave some in it? I started looking for a local small engine maintenance course to help me understand what I need to do to care for these things. I'm scared to buy additional small engine gear (like a lawn mower) because it might break down constantly.
If the ethanol in gas is killing the carburetors and fuel lines (which I suspect to be the biggest problem), either manufactures need to warn consumers in BIG BOLD LETTERS of the steps they need to take to avoid the damage. Or gas stations need to sell ethanol free gas. Consumers learn the hard way - and still, I don't know what to do. Is it safe to leave gas for a few months in my gear or do I have to drain them after each use?! it seems a bit extreme.
And even if the ethanol in gas is the problem, I believe the manufacturers could somehow build a better engine to use it; car manufacturers have, after all. How about some gas lines that can withstand ethanol, for example? I know they exist.
Any advice? How do I learn enough to avoid these problems, without having to become a small engine mechanic? I have a lot of other responsibilities and interests in life and I'm getting tired of broken engines after using a tool for one day. I was schooled as an electrical engineer and work in a highly technical career, so I feel fairly intelligent - so I'm really baffled why these devices are so damn hard to maintain.
- I bought a quality ($200) Husqvarna leaf blower and used it one day in the fall. The next fall came and the thing wouldn't start. It turned out the gas lines had rotted due to leaving gas in it. I then spent a day replacing gas lines.
- I bought a quality ($600) Craftsman snow blower. The first winter, it sat with gas in it but no snow came. I drained the gas. The second winter, it sat again with gas it and I used it one day - and the whole time the engine was 'hunting', revving up and down. I drained the gas. Today, I did maintenance on it, changed the oil, changed the plug, lubed various parts, etc. And the damn engine is still hunting. I guess the carb has gone bad, or maybe just needs a clean, but it's buried deep in the engine so after a day of maintenance, there's not time to fix it today.
It makes me wonder, are small engines built like crap nowadays? Or is the gas so bad that it kills an engine anytime you leave some in it? I started looking for a local small engine maintenance course to help me understand what I need to do to care for these things. I'm scared to buy additional small engine gear (like a lawn mower) because it might break down constantly.
If the ethanol in gas is killing the carburetors and fuel lines (which I suspect to be the biggest problem), either manufactures need to warn consumers in BIG BOLD LETTERS of the steps they need to take to avoid the damage. Or gas stations need to sell ethanol free gas. Consumers learn the hard way - and still, I don't know what to do. Is it safe to leave gas for a few months in my gear or do I have to drain them after each use?! it seems a bit extreme.
And even if the ethanol in gas is the problem, I believe the manufacturers could somehow build a better engine to use it; car manufacturers have, after all. How about some gas lines that can withstand ethanol, for example? I know they exist.
Any advice? How do I learn enough to avoid these problems, without having to become a small engine mechanic? I have a lot of other responsibilities and interests in life and I'm getting tired of broken engines after using a tool for one day. I was schooled as an electrical engineer and work in a highly technical career, so I feel fairly intelligent - so I'm really baffled why these devices are so damn hard to maintain.
#2
reynoldston
reynoldston
I know a lot of people that own small engines and are a long ways form doing mechanic work. These are the people that bring them to me to fix. I find these people have other skills other then mechanical skills.
#3
M
MarkF786
M
MarkF786
So I guess I need to buy a pickup truck to haul this damn snowblower in for maintenance every year? 
#4
lawn mower fanatic
lawn mower fanatic
To answer some of your questions with the best of my capability, YES the gas is harmful to the engines, but there are gas stations that sell ethanol-free gas: Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
And you shouldn't have to drain the gas out of your mower after every use; my one mower has had gas in it all winter and it still runs great. But for long periods of time the gas can definitely harm your engine (as you can see), and there are different ways companies instruct you to prep your mower for storage.
And you shouldn't have to drain the gas out of your mower after every use; my one mower has had gas in it all winter and it still runs great. But for long periods of time the gas can definitely harm your engine (as you can see), and there are different ways companies instruct you to prep your mower for storage.
#5
briggs
briggs
Allot of the issues we have today is 1.. poor quality not made to last
2..Gas is a big factor I do small engine repair and 90% of the repairs that come threw the door is stale gas ...IE ethanol ...After 3 weeks of sitting in a gas can mostly plastic ones it starts to brake down ...Why because they condensate most people don't put them in a dark dry place the stick it in there steel shed its hot during the day cold at night etc ....I keep mine in my shop in a steel gas can and I use high test only in my small engines ...When I put them away ether I drain them or I put stable in them ..But I don't put allot of that in there because it can plug up your carb also if it turns to that sandy grit ...I use high test and don't have any trouble ...The fuel sys has to be clean for it to run proper ..Sounds like your carb needs a good cleaning nothing major ....
2..Gas is a big factor I do small engine repair and 90% of the repairs that come threw the door is stale gas ...IE ethanol ...After 3 weeks of sitting in a gas can mostly plastic ones it starts to brake down ...Why because they condensate most people don't put them in a dark dry place the stick it in there steel shed its hot during the day cold at night etc ....I keep mine in my shop in a steel gas can and I use high test only in my small engines ...When I put them away ether I drain them or I put stable in them ..But I don't put allot of that in there because it can plug up your carb also if it turns to that sandy grit ...I use high test and don't have any trouble ...The fuel sys has to be clean for it to run proper ..Sounds like your carb needs a good cleaning nothing major ....
#6
midnite rider
midnite rider
Try running some SeaFoam through the system and see if the engine will smooth out. I always say to take the pill before you operate. There are stations around that sell ethanol free gas. Also gas stabilizers are sold to add to your gas to keep it from going bad. If I were you I would drain the tank and run the engine out of gas till it stalls each year before you put it up.
Attachments
#7
davbell22602
davbell22602
I have nothing but bad things to say about Seafoam plus its pricy. I use Berryman B12 in the can and its $3.19 at Walmart. I also use Star Tron or Ethanol Shield for fuel stablizer. Ethanol Shield recently came out with stablizer just for 2 cycle equipment.
#8
reynoldston
I would say that is your call. I pick up most of my repairs and charge them for it. I find all the repairs shops around hare have this option. You would find this is a lot cheaper then buying a pick up. There are a lot of things I don't like paying for but have to. If you become sick do you become a doctor?
reynoldston
So I guess I need to buy a pickup truck to haul this damn snowblower in for maintenance every year?
I would say that is your call. I pick up most of my repairs and charge them for it. I find all the repairs shops around hare have this option. You would find this is a lot cheaper then buying a pick up. There are a lot of things I don't like paying for but have to. If you become sick do you become a doctor?
#9
briggs
I have used sea foam not that great but it dose work on some things ..I just got a ultrasonic cleaner to me it was a waste ..I do about 10 to 15 carbs a day ..Waste of money on the powder...Its cheaper for me to use gas and a sea foam mix and soak them clean them out with a needle and compressed air works like a charm ..With the amount of gas I get in that is flat it makes great parts cleaner
briggs
I have nothing but bad things to say about Seafoam plus its pricy. I use Berryman B12 in the can and its $3.19 at Walmart. I also use Star Tron or Ethanol Shield for fuel stablizer. Ethanol Shield recently came out with stablizer just for 2 cycle equipment.
I have used sea foam not that great but it dose work on some things ..I just got a ultrasonic cleaner to me it was a waste ..I do about 10 to 15 carbs a day ..Waste of money on the powder...Its cheaper for me to use gas and a sea foam mix and soak them clean them out with a needle and compressed air works like a charm ..With the amount of gas I get in that is flat it makes great parts cleaner
#10
R
Raw Dodge
R
Raw Dodge
You don't need to be a mechanic,but you do need to read up on storage and read the owners manuals...it does help if you take the time to learn how things work,and to become familiar with repairs.as a mechanic of about 30 years I can tell you that my work is never done...there are times I wish I knew nothing because it seems like family and friends do stupid things and I get to fix them, they screw up with lack of maintenance prepping for storage and expect me to bail them out ,I spend much of my free time ensuring my equipment is ready,so when it's needed it starts. I'll tell you this never ever store anything for more than a month without stabilizing the fuel or draining the tank AND running it all the way out of fuel,by running it til it starts hunting and then full choking it so it pulls every last drop of fuel out of the carburetor..on stabilizers ,I'd skip the sea foam,it's better for removing carbon and gum than stabilizing fuel,use Stabil or better yet k100 fuel stabilizer...that is the best IMO...
#11
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
You don't have to be a mechanic, just able to read and follow directions. A lot of people around here that are will to help you out. We can get you manuals and offer tips. Mainly depends on your mechanical skills. You'll get a lot of different opinions and will have to pick and choose which to follow. I personally also recommend SeaFoam and have had great luck in using it.
#12
davbell22602
If you bought the HF powder it only works on jewelry. I buy cleaning solution from design technology for my HF heated ultrasonic cleaner.
davbell22602
I have used sea foam not that great but it dose work on some things ..I just got a ultrasonic cleaner to me it was a waste ..I do about 10 to 15 carbs a day ..Waste of money on the powder...Its cheaper for me to use gas and a sea foam mix and soak them clean them out with a needle and compressed air works like a charm ..With the amount of gas I get in that is flat it makes great parts cleaner
If you bought the HF powder it only works on jewelry. I buy cleaning solution from design technology for my HF heated ultrasonic cleaner.
#13
M
MarkF786
M
MarkF786
I have been using Stabil. I'll give Sea Foam a try before pulling apart the engine.
I was just thinking to myself, "what other appliance do you spend $600 on, use it once, and then it's broken?!" I've found many people reporting the same problems I've had - and it's from one of the best rated snow blowers.
Sorry, I'm cranky after a spending a day of maintenance on the thing, and it still runs like crap. I should have just stuck with shoveling snow by hand.
I was just thinking to myself, "what other appliance do you spend $600 on, use it once, and then it's broken?!" I've found many people reporting the same problems I've had - and it's from one of the best rated snow blowers.
Sorry, I'm cranky after a spending a day of maintenance on the thing, and it still runs like crap. I should have just stuck with shoveling snow by hand.
#14
I
itguy08
I
itguy08
I think the problem is ethanol plus poor storage practices. I may be lucky but I do this to all my gas - StaBil at the recommended dose + Marvel's Mystery Oil at the recommended dose. I run this through them all year. For storage I just get some fresh gas and top it off. Taking out of storage is no big deal - they fire right up. I don't use ethanol-free or the botique fuels and have not had an issue.
The only issue I had was when I used to store the snowblower and gas outside during winter. I had to replace the carb after 2 years. Water ate the carb. Ever since I moved inside for storage no more issues.
I think most of the "fuel is the issue" is BS. Yes, it plays a role in it, but what is the difference of that gas running through the fuel lines during use or sitting there? Yes, if you store it outside in the elements you will have issues, but storing in a watertight shed and use some stabilizer you should be fine.
I think the keys are:
1. Fill the tank full for storage (less room for condensation)
2. Use Fresh gas + stabilizer for the last few mows/uses.
If you want, run it once a month during the off season for 10-20 minutes to keep things circulated. I do that with ur generator but the gas in it is a year old by the time it runs out and I replace it. With StaBil + MMO I know I'm OK.
The only issue I had was when I used to store the snowblower and gas outside during winter. I had to replace the carb after 2 years. Water ate the carb. Ever since I moved inside for storage no more issues.
I think most of the "fuel is the issue" is BS. Yes, it plays a role in it, but what is the difference of that gas running through the fuel lines during use or sitting there? Yes, if you store it outside in the elements you will have issues, but storing in a watertight shed and use some stabilizer you should be fine.
I think the keys are:
1. Fill the tank full for storage (less room for condensation)
2. Use Fresh gas + stabilizer for the last few mows/uses.
If you want, run it once a month during the off season for 10-20 minutes to keep things circulated. I do that with ur generator but the gas in it is a year old by the time it runs out and I replace it. With StaBil + MMO I know I'm OK.
#15
briggs
I had a friend bring it back from the states for me ...I will see if I can find a place here that sells it as we don't have HF here ....
briggs
If you bought the HF powder it only works on jewelry. I buy cleaning solution from design technology for my HF heated ultrasonic cleaner.
I had a friend bring it back from the states for me ...I will see if I can find a place here that sells it as we don't have HF here ....
#16
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
DaveB and Briggs, we have been using the HF powder for over a year in our shop and have had great success with it. Cleaner gets used at least three times a day and sometimes have to change the solution more than once a day. Four techs here swear by it.
#17
davbell22602
davbell22602
I disagree with that theory if the gas is bought at Sheetz. Sheetz is watered down. I seen it destroy fuel injection systems on automobiles cause how much water is in the gas. But if gas bought from a Exxon or Shell then its probably poor storage practices.I think most of the "fuel is the issue" is BS.
#18
davbell22602
The cleaning soution from Design Technology is much effective than that powder from HF. The cleaning solution from Design Technology isnt a HF product. You get it from tinytach.com. Stens ultrasonic cleaner and cleaning solution now also.
davbell22602
I had a friend bring it back from the states for me ...I will see if I can find a place here that sells it as we don't have HF here ....
DaveB and Briggs, we have been using the HF powder for over a year in our shop and have had great success with it. Cleaner gets used at least three times a day and sometimes have to change the solution more than once a day. Four techs here swear by it.
The cleaning soution from Design Technology is much effective than that powder from HF. The cleaning solution from Design Technology isnt a HF product. You get it from tinytach.com. Stens ultrasonic cleaner and cleaning solution now also.
#19
briggs
:thumbsup: awesome will look into it ...I was going threw it like crazy ...Because 90% of are work is related to crappy gas and improper storage of EQ....
briggs
The cleaning soution from Design Technology is much effective than that powder from HF. The cleaning solution from Design Technology isnt a HF product. You get it from tinytach.com. Stens ultrasonic cleaner and cleaning solution now also.
:thumbsup: awesome will look into it ...I was going threw it like crazy ...Because 90% of are work is related to crappy gas and improper storage of EQ....
#20
briggs
it worked but not as good as I expected it to ...I was still doing better with my gas and sea foam mix and compressed air ....like I said I can 10 to 15 carbs a day sometimes more I was going threw it like mad lol
briggs
DaveB and Briggs, we have been using the HF powder for over a year in our shop and have had great success with it. Cleaner gets used at least three times a day and sometimes have to change the solution more than once a day. Four techs here swear by it.
it worked but not as good as I expected it to ...I was still doing better with my gas and sea foam mix and compressed air ....like I said I can 10 to 15 carbs a day sometimes more I was going threw it like mad lol
#21
I
itguy08
Bull$hit. Been in Central PA since 1993 and have used Sheetz for gas since then. I'd say I've got probably well over 400k in various cars with Sheetz gas. Never an issue with the fuel systems in any of them. From a carb'ed 1986 Mustang to a 2010 Taurus SHO.
I
itguy08
I disagree with that theory if the gas is bought at Sheetz. Sheetz is watered down. I seen it destroy fuel injection systems on automobiles cause how much water is in the gas. But if gas bought from a Exxon or Shell then its probably poor storage practices.
Bull$hit. Been in Central PA since 1993 and have used Sheetz for gas since then. I'd say I've got probably well over 400k in various cars with Sheetz gas. Never an issue with the fuel systems in any of them. From a carb'ed 1986 Mustang to a 2010 Taurus SHO.
#22
davbell22602
Its true. It known to destroy fuel injection systems in automobiles. I dont even use Sheetz gas anymore cause I get poor gas mileage when using it.
davbell22602
Bull$hit. Been in Central PA since 1993 and have used Sheetz for gas since then. I'd say I've got probably well over 400k in various cars with Sheetz gas. Never an issue with the fuel systems in any of them. From a carb'ed 1986 Mustang to a 2010 Taurus SHO.
Its true. It known to destroy fuel injection systems in automobiles. I dont even use Sheetz gas anymore cause I get poor gas mileage when using it.
#23
I
itguy08
Shoot me some links. Cause my data doesn't bear that out.
If any fuel injection system would be bothered, it would be my Taurus with it's direct injected twin turbo engine. Got 68k on it with tons of Sheetz fuel run through it. No issues. And I also track fuel economy and get no better or worse fuel economy with it vs Sunoco, Exxon, BP, Turkey Hill, Costco, Giant, etc gas. Constant 19-25 MPG depending on highway vs city.
The wife's Escape has 139k on it with a diet of mainly Sheetz and no issues with the fuel injection system either. Still the original fuel pump and injectors.
Maybe it's different in W. VA vs PA but in PA it's fine gas.
I
itguy08
Its true. It known to destroy fuel injection systems in automobiles. I dont even use Sheetz gas anymore cause I get poor gas mileage when using it.
Shoot me some links. Cause my data doesn't bear that out.
If any fuel injection system would be bothered, it would be my Taurus with it's direct injected twin turbo engine. Got 68k on it with tons of Sheetz fuel run through it. No issues. And I also track fuel economy and get no better or worse fuel economy with it vs Sunoco, Exxon, BP, Turkey Hill, Costco, Giant, etc gas. Constant 19-25 MPG depending on highway vs city.
The wife's Escape has 139k on it with a diet of mainly Sheetz and no issues with the fuel injection system either. Still the original fuel pump and injectors.
Maybe it's different in W. VA vs PA but in PA it's fine gas.
#24
Rokon
Fuel used in small gas engines needs to be clean and water free. Passenger vehicles with multi-cylinder engines are more forgiving when using today's fuel.
Rokon
Bull$hit. Been in Central PA since 1993 and have used Sheetz for gas since then. I'd say I've got probably well over 400k in various cars with Sheetz gas. Never an issue with the fuel systems in any of them. From a carb'ed 1986 Mustang to a 2010 Taurus SHO.
Fuel used in small gas engines needs to be clean and water free. Passenger vehicles with multi-cylinder engines are more forgiving when using today's fuel.
#25
I
itguy08
True and as long as you get it from a decent station you'll be fine in either case. Due to the ethanol stations have sensors that monitor for water in the tanks and drain off accordingly. I've run gas in my OPE from all sorts of stations - Sheetz, Flying J, BP, Gulf, Mobil, etc and not an issue at all. Gas storage is also important too - store your gas on the ground, in a wet environment, or outside and you are inviting issues. Our gas is in the shed on a wooden floor. No issues yet in any of the OPE I run - push mower, riding mower, pressure washer, blower, weedwhacker, generator, or snowblower.
I
itguy08
Fuel used in small gas engines needs to be clean and water free. Passenger vehicles with multi-cylinder engines are more forgiving when using today's fuel.
True and as long as you get it from a decent station you'll be fine in either case. Due to the ethanol stations have sensors that monitor for water in the tanks and drain off accordingly. I've run gas in my OPE from all sorts of stations - Sheetz, Flying J, BP, Gulf, Mobil, etc and not an issue at all. Gas storage is also important too - store your gas on the ground, in a wet environment, or outside and you are inviting issues. Our gas is in the shed on a wooden floor. No issues yet in any of the OPE I run - push mower, riding mower, pressure washer, blower, weedwhacker, generator, or snowblower.
#26
bwdbrn1
No need to apologize for being cranky at all. I know exactly how you feel.
bwdbrn1
I have been using Stabil. I'll give Sea Foam a try before pulling apart the engine.
I was just thinking to myself, "what other appliance do you spend $600 on, use it once, and then it's broken?!" I've found many people reporting the same problems I've had - and it's from one of the best rated snow blowers.
Sorry, I'm cranky after a spending a day of maintenance on the thing, and it still runs like crap. I should have just stuck with shoveling snow by hand.
No need to apologize for being cranky at all. I know exactly how you feel.
#27
W
Woody71
W
Woody71
I've been using SeaFoam in my 2 and 4 cycle engines (Toro Mower, Cub Cadet 2-stage snow thrower, Craftsman Blower, Echo Trimmer) for the past few years. I store them wet and have had 0 issues with starting the next season and no carb issues. I've also started buying less gas during each fill up for my OPE. Even with the SeaFoam, this ensures I'm using fresh gas throughout the season. Rather than buy 1 gallon of fuel for my 2-cycle blower, I buy 1/4 gal at a time now.
I also run Shell gas in all my OPE from a high volume station (more frequent storage tank refills). 89 in my 2-cycle, 87 in my 4-cycle.
I also run Shell gas in all my OPE from a high volume station (more frequent storage tank refills). 89 in my 2-cycle, 87 in my 4-cycle.
#28
briggs
briggs
like I said in my first post ..Fresh high test gas and a good fuel system clean and it will purr like a kitty ..And when u store ether run it dry or put stable in it let it run for 5 min to get the stable threw the fuel system then shut it down..It dose not matter what the name of the EQ is none of them like dead ****** gas ..When it brakes down it plugs up the carb or it makes them run ******....And 65% of the stuff u read on the reviews is BS ..U get people complaining its hard to start and so or it smokes but what the owner didn't say is he over filled with oil or I was cutting on 45 degree angle and the oil went into the cyl and it smoked ..But its a POS because of that...Most of its because of neglect or miss use..I have 4 clients that come to me every year with the same prob they will not switch to high test and use stable ..No matter how many times I tell them but every year they bitch because there blower or lawn mower wont start go figure ..Sea foam works ok used it 3 times on my boat and snow machine ...Most newer manuals will tell what to do and what not to do when u put them away for the winter /summer
#29
W
Woody71
W
Woody71
Agreed, just sharing my OPE fuel practices. I add SeaFoam each time I refill my red OPE gas containers, not just before seasonal storage.like I said in my first post ..Fresh high test gas and a good fuel system clean and it will purr like a kitty ..And when u store ether run it dry or put stable in it let it run for 5 min to get the stable threw the fuel system then shut it down..It dose not matter what the name of the EQ is none of them like dead ****** gas ..When it brakes down it plugs up the carb or it makes them run ****** ....
#30
davbell22602
davbell22602
I add my stabilizer before pumping the gas in my cans. I keep 10 gallons stored at all times.
#31
briggs
that's a good idea to ..I like that :thumbsup:
briggs
Agreed, just sharing my OPE fuel practices. I add SeaFoam each time I refill my red OPE gas containers, not just before seasonal storage.
that's a good idea to ..I like that :thumbsup:
#32
W
Woody71
W
Woody71
That's what I do as well. On another note, I did have an issue with my blower this season. It was fuel related but not in the sense that we're discussing here. It would rev down a bit at full throttle and die when I released the trigger. Ended up that the H/L carb mixture screws needed adjustment. Runs better than new since they were adjusted. They're set very lean due to EPA regulations. Also, the mixture screws require a special tool to adjust. Could be that my mixture is a bit richer than what it was when I first bought the blower (I've changed to using Lucas semi-syn 2-stroke oil with 2/oz per gallon SeaFoam).I add my stabilizer before pumping the gas in my cans. I keep 10 gallons stored at all times.
#33
briggs
that's good also :thumbsup:
briggs
I add my stabilizer before pumping the gas in my cans. I keep 10 gallons stored at all times.
that's good also :thumbsup:
#34
briggs
let me guess a little Toro 2 stroke
briggs
That's what I do as well. On another note, I did have an issue with my blower this season. It was fuel related but not in the sense that we're discussing here. It would rev down a bit at full throttle and die when I released the trigger. Ended up that the H/L carb mixture screws needed adjustment. Runs better than new since they were adjusted. They're set very lean due to EPA regulations. Also, the mixture screws require a special tool to adjust. Could be that my mixture is a bit richer than what it was when I first bought the blower (I've changed to using Lucas semi-syn 2-stroke oil with 2/oz per gallon SeaFoam).
let me guess a little Toro 2 stroke
#36
briggs
oh cool yes sometimes they need a little tweak and they will level out
briggs
Nope, Craftsman (aka Poulan) 25cc blower.
oh cool yes sometimes they need a little tweak and they will level out
#37
S
SRJMow
S
SRJMow
No, you do not have to be a mechanic to own a small engine, although it would not hurt :smile:
When I bought my first house I ran into the same problems you are experiencing. Most of the problems you are having are probably due to not using up your gas within 30 days or improperly storing your equipment. As a result you have been having fuel related problems (fuel lines, carburetor). I learned by making the same mistakes, in other words the hard way. :ashamed: Your best friend is your owner's manual. Required reading should be the maintenance and storage sections. Most users quickly read the part about setting up their equipment, and how to use it and never get around to reading the rest of the manual.
Also, the quality of your equipment is important. In general equipment that is cheaply manufactured without good quality control will not last as long as commercial grade or higher end consumer grade equipment. But even the very best equipment will quickly malfunction if not maintained properly. If you buy equipment that is of high enough quality to do the job you need done then you should not have to take it to a mechanic as often, or end up fixing it yourself as often. And that will save you a lot of time and money. Another alternative is to hire someone to mow your lawn, remove your leaves, remove your snow and so on. I did my own lawn work for the first six or seven years. Once I started working over 50 hours a week I had to hire someone to mow the lawn. When I retired seven years ago I went back to mowing my own lawn, and purchased a snowblower three years ago to clear my driveway. Every year I get better at maintaining my equipment, and as a result I have had fewer problems to deal with, and my expenses have been reduced.
PS: This forum is a great place to get tips on maintenance, repair, and suggestions on buying the right equipment for the job that needs to be done.
Good luck!
When I bought my first house I ran into the same problems you are experiencing. Most of the problems you are having are probably due to not using up your gas within 30 days or improperly storing your equipment. As a result you have been having fuel related problems (fuel lines, carburetor). I learned by making the same mistakes, in other words the hard way. :ashamed: Your best friend is your owner's manual. Required reading should be the maintenance and storage sections. Most users quickly read the part about setting up their equipment, and how to use it and never get around to reading the rest of the manual.
Also, the quality of your equipment is important. In general equipment that is cheaply manufactured without good quality control will not last as long as commercial grade or higher end consumer grade equipment. But even the very best equipment will quickly malfunction if not maintained properly. If you buy equipment that is of high enough quality to do the job you need done then you should not have to take it to a mechanic as often, or end up fixing it yourself as often. And that will save you a lot of time and money. Another alternative is to hire someone to mow your lawn, remove your leaves, remove your snow and so on. I did my own lawn work for the first six or seven years. Once I started working over 50 hours a week I had to hire someone to mow the lawn. When I retired seven years ago I went back to mowing my own lawn, and purchased a snowblower three years ago to clear my driveway. Every year I get better at maintaining my equipment, and as a result I have had fewer problems to deal with, and my expenses have been reduced.
PS: This forum is a great place to get tips on maintenance, repair, and suggestions on buying the right equipment for the job that needs to be done.
Good luck!
#38
reynoldston
reynoldston
I am mechanic and do my own work. Yes if you let the gas set for several years it will go bad. I just don't see where things go bad by just letting a peace of equipment set for one season. When I get done with the mower or snow blower at the end of the season I just turn the key off. When I go to start then at the beginning of the season they start. I have to some times give them a shot of starting fluid but they run just fine after they start. I don't use special gas or additives. Just could it be that all the additives and your high test special gas you keep putting into your equipment be causing all your problem's? Things I do are change oil, all filters and any lines that look old and cracked once a season which I call maintenance.
#39
pugaltitude
pugaltitude
Fuel will go off after approx 30 days.
Its not the liquid from fuel that burns but the vapors that ignite.
After 30 days the vapours basically die down.
Fuel mixed in the summer is less volatile than fuel mixed for winter.
Ethanol being alcohol attracts moisture which is why water can be found in the system.
Small engines can take upto approx 15% ethanol mixed in the fuel but anymore and plastic starts to melt.
The water then corrodes any metals in the fuel system.
Iv seen fuel go off after 30 days and cause problems but then Im the same as anybody else and usually use the year before fuel and the mower fires up after so many pulls.
Its not the liquid from fuel that burns but the vapors that ignite.
After 30 days the vapours basically die down.
Fuel mixed in the summer is less volatile than fuel mixed for winter.
Ethanol being alcohol attracts moisture which is why water can be found in the system.
Small engines can take upto approx 15% ethanol mixed in the fuel but anymore and plastic starts to melt.
The water then corrodes any metals in the fuel system.
Iv seen fuel go off after 30 days and cause problems but then Im the same as anybody else and usually use the year before fuel and the mower fires up after so many pulls.
#40
reynoldston
reynoldston
I don't know what anyone else pays for gas, but I have to pay almost 4 dollars a gallon. I sure am not going to throw it out after it sets for 30 days when everything I own just runs just fine with it. But do what makes you feel good. My next question is what do you do with this 30 day old gas, pour it on the ground ??? or pay more money to get rid of it?
#41
pugaltitude
Add an additive then you wont have to throw it way.
pugaltitude
I don't know what anyone else pays for gas, but I have to pay almost 4 dollars a gallon. I sure am not going to throw it out after it sets for 30 days when everything I own just runs just fine with it. But do what makes you feel good. My next question is what do you do with this 30 day old gas, pour it on the ground ??? or pay more money to get rid of it?
Add an additive then you wont have to throw it way.
#42
reynoldston
So you are saying if you don't add additives throw it away. Throw it my way I will use it.
reynoldston
Add an additive then you wont have to throw it way.
So you are saying if you don't add additives throw it away. Throw it my way I will use it.
#43
Carscw
Carscw
I have said it before and I will say it again.
Bullshit on this whole ethanol crap. I as do many others let a mower or car sit for a couple months and it fired right up and gives no trouble.
Many of you just assume that ethanol is the cause of every no start or running bad problem.
You say you have seen what it does. Ok what test or study did you do to come to the conclusion that ethanol is to blame?
How many people come on here with problems that you say is caused by ethanol but they use no ethanol gas? A lot.
Bullshit on this whole ethanol crap. I as do many others let a mower or car sit for a couple months and it fired right up and gives no trouble.
Many of you just assume that ethanol is the cause of every no start or running bad problem.
You say you have seen what it does. Ok what test or study did you do to come to the conclusion that ethanol is to blame?
How many people come on here with problems that you say is caused by ethanol but they use no ethanol gas? A lot.
#44
S
SRJMow
I use up the old gas for my lawnmower or snowblower that is over 30 days old in my car. I do not want to waste a thing if I can help it. A car engine is much more forgiving, and a gallon or so of old gas is not that much when mixed in with a nearly full tank of gas in a car. I use my mower frequently so I usually use up my gas in less than 30 days. The snowblower on the other hand is a PITA. I have to keep track of that closely. Sometimes it hardly snows at all during the winter, and other times we get buried. I get gas for it several days before a snowstorm is forecast. I have used a turkey baster to remove old gas in it as much as possible after 30 days, and then it runs dry in just a minute or two. I really do not want to have to work on cleaning that carb if I can help it. A new one ($100 or so for the blower) is too expensive.
The only gas I have a tough time getting rid of is the gas that is mixed with oil for two cycle engines. I have taken that to recycle centers at the end of the summer. Usually there is not much left to get rid of. That is the type of gas that I would consider using additives with. For example, I have a difficult time using up the gas for my chainsaw as I usually only use it to cut tree limbs that have fallen or to remove some small trees from the property. I used some of that old gas at the end of this year in the chainsaw to get rid of the remains of a stump and to use up the old gas. Well, I believe the gas caused the chainsaw to stall out after running for a short period of time. I had to change the plug and the fuel filter to get things running good again. I am not sure it was caused by the old gas, but it may have played a role. I had no problems earlier in the season. Luckily I did not have to replace the carb, although that would be fairly simple and inexpensive to do with the chainsaw.
S
SRJMow
So you are saying if you don't add additives throw it away. Throw it my way I will use it.
I use up the old gas for my lawnmower or snowblower that is over 30 days old in my car. I do not want to waste a thing if I can help it. A car engine is much more forgiving, and a gallon or so of old gas is not that much when mixed in with a nearly full tank of gas in a car. I use my mower frequently so I usually use up my gas in less than 30 days. The snowblower on the other hand is a PITA. I have to keep track of that closely. Sometimes it hardly snows at all during the winter, and other times we get buried. I get gas for it several days before a snowstorm is forecast. I have used a turkey baster to remove old gas in it as much as possible after 30 days, and then it runs dry in just a minute or two. I really do not want to have to work on cleaning that carb if I can help it. A new one ($100 or so for the blower) is too expensive.
The only gas I have a tough time getting rid of is the gas that is mixed with oil for two cycle engines. I have taken that to recycle centers at the end of the summer. Usually there is not much left to get rid of. That is the type of gas that I would consider using additives with. For example, I have a difficult time using up the gas for my chainsaw as I usually only use it to cut tree limbs that have fallen or to remove some small trees from the property. I used some of that old gas at the end of this year in the chainsaw to get rid of the remains of a stump and to use up the old gas. Well, I believe the gas caused the chainsaw to stall out after running for a short period of time. I had to change the plug and the fuel filter to get things running good again. I am not sure it was caused by the old gas, but it may have played a role. I had no problems earlier in the season. Luckily I did not have to replace the carb, although that would be fairly simple and inexpensive to do with the chainsaw.
#45
T
tybilly
Thankyou Rivets,i am still not convinced on the whole ethanol issue..but I do know ethanol free at the exxon is about a dollar more a gallon.i say people hang on to their dirty gas cans way too long.
T
tybilly
I have said it before and I will say it again.
Bullshit on this whole ethanol crap. I as do many others let a mower or car sit for a couple months and it fired right up and gives no trouble.
Many of you just assume that ethanol is the cause of every no start or running bad problem.
You say you have seen what it does. Ok what test or study did you do to come to the conclusion that ethanol is to blame?
How many people come on here with problems that you say is caused by ethanol but they use no ethanol gas? A lot.
Thankyou Rivets,i am still not convinced on the whole ethanol issue..but I do know ethanol free at the exxon is about a dollar more a gallon.i say people hang on to their dirty gas cans way too long.
#46
briggs
I have seen it happen with 10% ethanol ..I get it all the time ...There is a different with a steel tank and a plastic tank ..Your car tank holds more fuel then a small engine tank ..I let my derby car sit all winter with reg gas it works fine and its a boat tank but if I do that in my lawnmower or my snow blower it runs like **** ..I proved it to a client the other day he had reg gas that sat in the tank of his snow blower since the end of last winter it ran like **** ..I draned it put high test and some sea foam threw it and it ran perfect ..But some people say there is no diff ...I believe there is buts that's me ..And the cost of it I don't notice at all
briggs
I have said it before and I will say it again.
Bullshit on this whole ethanol crap. I as do many others let a mower or car sit for a couple months and it fired right up and gives no trouble.
Many of you just assume that ethanol is the cause of every no start or running bad problem.
You say you have seen what it does. Ok what test or study did you do to come to the conclusion that ethanol is to blame?
How many people come on here with problems that you say is caused by ethanol but they use no ethanol gas? A lot.
I have seen it happen with 10% ethanol ..I get it all the time ...There is a different with a steel tank and a plastic tank ..Your car tank holds more fuel then a small engine tank ..I let my derby car sit all winter with reg gas it works fine and its a boat tank but if I do that in my lawnmower or my snow blower it runs like **** ..I proved it to a client the other day he had reg gas that sat in the tank of his snow blower since the end of last winter it ran like **** ..I draned it put high test and some sea foam threw it and it ran perfect ..But some people say there is no diff ...I believe there is buts that's me ..And the cost of it I don't notice at all
#47
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Ethanol is alcohol, alcohol attracts moisture, moisture attracts corrosion and corrosion put money in my pocket. I can't make it much simpler. If you are turning your fuel over in thirty days or less, there is very little chance that you will notice a difference. If you are a landscaper or drive a vehicle you will probably never notice a difference, because you never have fuel sitting around. The average homeowner likes to have a 2-5 gallon can sitting in the shed and here is where the problem occurs. As I have said before, we advice all customers to use non-ethanol fuel in all their small engine units. Yes, it does cost more (about .45 in my area) but at today's labor rate, we call it cheap insurance. Just like our customers, each of you must decide which route to go. Can I prove that this way is better, no. All I can say is that we have seen a drastic drop in the number of fuel related problems by customers who have changed and if I had a dollar for every customer who has said thank you because he has noticed a difference, I could take a nice vacation. Still clean and rebuild about a dozen carbs a week, so we still need to educate our new customers. Do what works for you.
#48
reynoldston
If you are cleaning 12 carburetors a week you must have one big shop with a very big business. I have worked in big shops and never seen that many carburetor repairs. Now when you are doing all these carburetors they are full of water damage? It just must be where I am located when I take a carburetor apart I am more likely to find dirt or gum up from real old gas and not water damage. Now when I say gum up its from gas that has been setting for years not one season. Yes I have come across water damage in carburetors but find the carburetor by that time isn't repairable some times. Just my own experiences which are a lot different from yours.
reynoldston
Ethanol is alcohol, alcohol attracts moisture, moisture attracts corrosion and corrosion put money in my pocket. I can't make it much simpler. If you are turning your fuel over in thirty days or less, there is very little chance that you will notice a difference. If you are a landscaper or drive a vehicle you will probably never notice a difference, because you never have fuel sitting around. The average homeowner likes to have a 2-5 gallon can sitting in the shed and here is where the problem occurs. As I have said before, we advice all customers to use non-ethanol fuel in all their small engine units. Yes, it does cost more (about .45 in my area) but at today's labor rate, we call it cheap insurance. Just like our customers, each of you must decide which route to go. Can I prove that this way is better, no. All I can say is that we have seen a drastic drop in the number of fuel related problems by customers who have changed and if I had a dollar for every customer who has said thank you because he has noticed a difference, I could take a nice vacation. Still clean and rebuild about a dozen carbs a week, so we still need to educate our new customers. Do what works for you.
If you are cleaning 12 carburetors a week you must have one big shop with a very big business. I have worked in big shops and never seen that many carburetor repairs. Now when you are doing all these carburetors they are full of water damage? It just must be where I am located when I take a carburetor apart I am more likely to find dirt or gum up from real old gas and not water damage. Now when I say gum up its from gas that has been setting for years not one season. Yes I have come across water damage in carburetors but find the carburetor by that time isn't repairable some times. Just my own experiences which are a lot different from yours.
#49
briggs
We (there is 3 of us )do up to 10 a day here its the number one problem we see come in the door other then lack of maintence ...I find water ,gummy stuff ,scale ,grit (to much stable) crushed floats hell I even had one that was cracked from freezing...Me I don't mind making money but if I can prevent people from doing this stupid stuff I will ...As for the gas I tell them use high test gas it makes them run better and it lasts a little longer most times its improper storage of gas that causes the trouble ..But I do agree that if u are using high test everyday as a land scraper u will notice the price difference
briggs
If you are cleaning 12 carburetors a week you must have one big shop with a very big business. I have worked in big shops and never seen that many carburetor repairs. Now when you are doing all these carburetors they are full of water damage? It just must be where I am located when I take a carburetor apart I am more likely to find dirt or gum up from real old gas and not water damage. Now when I say gum up its from gas that has been setting for years not one season. Yes I have come across water damage in carburetors but find the carburetor by that time isn't repairable some times. Just my own experiences which are a lot different from yours.
We (there is 3 of us )do up to 10 a day here its the number one problem we see come in the door other then lack of maintence ...I find water ,gummy stuff ,scale ,grit (to much stable) crushed floats hell I even had one that was cracked from freezing...Me I don't mind making money but if I can prevent people from doing this stupid stuff I will ...As for the gas I tell them use high test gas it makes them run better and it lasts a little longer most times its improper storage of gas that causes the trouble ..But I do agree that if u are using high test everyday as a land scraper u will notice the price difference
#50
pugaltitude
We are now finding the same gummed up carbs of old stale fuel thats been sitting for a few years in a mower in fuel that has been left for approx a month.
Fuel is changing and we have to accept it.
The problems we are getting is 9 out of 10 fuel related.
Running rough, hard to start cold, hard to start hot, not starting at all, the list can go on.
The common factor is usually always the fuel.
pugaltitude
It just must be where I am located when I take a carburetor apart I am more likely to find dirt or gum up from real old gas and not water damage. Now when I say gum up its from gas that has been setting for years not one season.
We are now finding the same gummed up carbs of old stale fuel thats been sitting for a few years in a mower in fuel that has been left for approx a month.
Fuel is changing and we have to accept it.
The problems we are getting is 9 out of 10 fuel related.
Running rough, hard to start cold, hard to start hot, not starting at all, the list can go on.
The common factor is usually always the fuel.
#51
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Only have 3.5 mechanics working in the back, so I won't call it a big shop. Last Monday I had six carbs by myself. I have seen everything in the carb, dirt, gum, varnish, jelly, corrosion, etc. Have seen needles frozen in the bushing and I have one needle, which I saved, where the plating on the needle is peeling off. Viton tips and seats swelling up are the major problem. We buy Tecumseh part number 631021B and Briggs part number 398188 fifty at a time. Never had this type of problems until about 5 years ago. Before that may have seen one carb problem like this a week. Today's carbs are designed to run so lean and the jets and passageways so small, that it doesn't take much to create a problem.
#52
briggs
same here :thumbsup:
briggs
Only have 3.5 mechanics working in the back, so I won't call it a big shop. Last Monday I had six carbs by myself. I have seen everything in the carb, dirt, gum, varnish, jelly, corrosion, etc. Have seen needles frozen in the bushing and I have one needle, which I saved, where the plating on the needle is peeling off. Viton tips and seats swelling up are the major problem. We buy Tecumseh part number 631021B and Briggs part number 398188 fifty at a time. Never had this type of problems until about 5 years ago. Before that may have seen one carb problem like this a week. Today's carbs are designed to run so lean and the jets and passageways so small, that it doesn't take much to create a problem.
same here :thumbsup:
#53
reynoldston
reynoldston
I use my old wheel horse for snow removal . 8 months ago I parked in in a lean-to and turned the key off. Seeing we will have snow coming I wanted to get it running for the winter. Yes I did have some problems. The battery wasn't any good but that was three years old so needed a new battery. The bar that rises the snow blower broke which just needed welding. Now the gas tank is haft full with last winters gas. It started right up once I installed the new battery and it go's up to full power. No additives and no high test gas. The carburetor didn't need cleaning. Just why dose every one else have all these carburetor problems after there equipment sets for 30 days? I think its the additives and high test gas you are putting in you equipment. Or could it be the different climate that we live in? Or could our gas be different? I just don't understand all these fuel problems are coming from that I am reading about and I just don't see this type of work coming into my shop???
#54
davbell22602
I know I get better results after I switched from Star Tron to Ethanol Shield. I told my Stens rep that and she never heard anyone else have trouble with Star Tron.
davbell22602
I use my old wheel horse for snow removal . 8 months ago I parked in in a lean-to and turned the key off. Seeing we will have snow coming I wanted to get it running for the winter. Yes I did have some problems. The battery wasn't any good but that was three years old so needed a new battery. The bar that rises the snow blower broke which just needed welding. Now the gas tank is haft full with last winters gas. It started right up once I installed the new battery and it go's up to full power. No additives and no high test gas. The carburetor didn't need cleaning. Just why dose every one else have all these carburetor problems after there equipment sets for 30 days? I think its the additives and high test gas you are putting in you equipment. Or could it be the different climate that we live in? Or could our gas be different? I just don't understand all these fuel problems are coming from that I am reading about and I just don't see this type of work coming into my shop???
I know I get better results after I switched from Star Tron to Ethanol Shield. I told my Stens rep that and she never heard anyone else have trouble with Star Tron.
#55
Carscw
I think it's all the crap everyone is adding to their gas.
Like I have said I let mowers sit for months and they fire right up and run fine.
I let a buddy use one of my trimmers because his won't run right he has had it for two weeks now it only runs on half choke.
He uses a fuel additive I do not. So what your are saying make sense to me.
Carscw
I use my old wheel horse for snow removal . 8 months ago I parked in in a lean-to and turned the key off. Seeing we will have snow coming I wanted to get it running for the winter. Yes I did have some problems. The battery wasn't any good but that was three years old so needed a new battery. The bar that rises the snow blower broke which just needed welding. Now the gas tank is haft full with last winters gas. It started right up once I installed the new battery and it go's up to full power. No additives and no high test gas. The carburetor didn't need cleaning. Just why dose every one else have all these carburetor problems after there equipment sets for 30 days? I think its the additives and high test gas you are putting in you equipment. Or could it be the different climate that we live in? Or could our gas be different? I just don't understand all these fuel problems are coming from that I am reading about and I just don't see this type of work coming into my shop???
I think it's all the crap everyone is adding to their gas.
Like I have said I let mowers sit for months and they fire right up and run fine.
I let a buddy use one of my trimmers because his won't run right he has had it for two weeks now it only runs on half choke.
He uses a fuel additive I do not. So what your are saying make sense to me.
#56
reynoldston
Just curious have you ever ran your equipment without any additives? If so just what results different have you seen. Also what different do you see between Star Tron and Ethanol Shield ? Do you buy a lot of fuel at a time and it sets a long time is the reason you are using Ethanol Shield?
reynoldston
I know I get better results after I switched from Star Tron to Ethanol Shield. I told my Stens rep that and she never heard anyone else have trouble with Star Tron.
Just curious have you ever ran your equipment without any additives? If so just what results different have you seen. Also what different do you see between Star Tron and Ethanol Shield ? Do you buy a lot of fuel at a time and it sets a long time is the reason you are using Ethanol Shield?
#57
reynoldston
I see I am not the only person that thinks it's all the crap everyone is adding to their fuel.
reynoldston
I think it's all the crap everyone is adding to their gas.
Like I have said I let mowers sit for months and they fire right up and run fine.
I let a buddy use one of my trimmers because his won't run right he has had it for two weeks now it only runs on half choke.
He uses a fuel additive I do not. So what your are saying make sense to me.
I see I am not the only person that thinks it's all the crap everyone is adding to their fuel.
#58
davbell22602
I tried running my equipment without it and it doesnt run very well. I try to 10 gallons in the garage. Plus gas 20 cents higher in WV compared to Winchester VA. Gas is even higher the closer you get to MD stateline. My equipment runs smoother with using ethanol shield. When I used the Star Tron I saw where the gas turned to jelly inside the bowl. That actually happened on a generator I have. Replaced carb on generator in 2012. Put gas in it, then tried to run every 30 days when possible. Tried to start it up Spring 2013 and no start or started up then cut back off. Pulled carb and found gas jelly inside of bowl. Cleaned bowl and drained gas out tank. Runs fine now with issues since switching to ethanol shield.
davbell22602
Just curious have you ever ran your equipment without any additives? If so just what results different have you seen. Also what different do you see between Star Tron and Ethanol Shield ? Do you buy a lot of fuel at a time and it sets a long time is the reason you are using Ethanol Shield?
I tried running my equipment without it and it doesnt run very well. I try to 10 gallons in the garage. Plus gas 20 cents higher in WV compared to Winchester VA. Gas is even higher the closer you get to MD stateline. My equipment runs smoother with using ethanol shield. When I used the Star Tron I saw where the gas turned to jelly inside the bowl. That actually happened on a generator I have. Replaced carb on generator in 2012. Put gas in it, then tried to run every 30 days when possible. Tried to start it up Spring 2013 and no start or started up then cut back off. Pulled carb and found gas jelly inside of bowl. Cleaned bowl and drained gas out tank. Runs fine now with issues since switching to ethanol shield.
#59
exotion
I believe this problem is started by imroper use of the choke lol people at my old company wouldn't start a 2 cycle without the choke on and holding throttle cable then while holding throttle full speed switch between choke and open about 15 times to make it warm up faster I think this is widely done when it shouldn't be
I also never add anything to my gas I run my equipment for a few minutes every other week during the winter its stored in a nog.heated garage I don't have issues come spring with any equipment.
I.just started my mantis tiller stored outside in a lean to since last spring havent touched it started 3 pulls it smokes but that's probably bad gas point is it starts and runs lol
exotion
I think it's all the crap everyone is adding to their gas.
Like I have said I let mowers sit for months and they fire right up and run fine.
I let a buddy use one of my trimmers because his won't run right he has had it for two weeks now it only runs on half choke.
He uses a fuel additive I do not. So what your are saying make sense to me.
I believe this problem is started by imroper use of the choke lol people at my old company wouldn't start a 2 cycle without the choke on and holding throttle cable then while holding throttle full speed switch between choke and open about 15 times to make it warm up faster I think this is widely done when it shouldn't be
I also never add anything to my gas I run my equipment for a few minutes every other week during the winter its stored in a nog.heated garage I don't have issues come spring with any equipment.
I.just started my mantis tiller stored outside in a lean to since last spring havent touched it started 3 pulls it smokes but that's probably bad gas point is it starts and runs lol
#60
briggs
briggs
i had one tonight bad gas u could smell the crap it was dead it was in there since last winter ...The carb was plugged up with green crap ..cleaned it up with gas and sea foam mix hit it with air put it back together fired right up
#61
T
tybilly
T
tybilly
also,when a fuel delivery driver has too much of one type of gas it gets dumped into any tank that will hold it,cause they don't want to return with fuel in their truck due to the different blends and additives between gas stations,mid grade and high test or premium have additves such as dyes, detergents and stabilizer,according to Marathon I worked at.where all of regular unleaded is all the same,except clark who uses a red dye.
#62
S
sallymander
S
sallymander
Besides having to mow the 4 acre lawn I'm a farmer who is very supportive of ethanol because we can finally make money farming.
That said I don't use ethanol gas in any of my vehicles or small equipment!!! Guess I'm a hypocrite but I've had too many problems with E gas going stale and leaving deposits.
Most every station in my area and the tanker that delivers fuel to the farm has non-E premium grade gas.
I've penciled it out, in the vehicles even though the price of premium non-E is higher the greater miles per gallon from it actually saves you money even over the price of the lowest grade E gas.
As far as having to be a mechanic, no as long as you buy quality equipment and maintain it you should only have simple problems to deal with.
That said I don't use ethanol gas in any of my vehicles or small equipment!!! Guess I'm a hypocrite but I've had too many problems with E gas going stale and leaving deposits.
Most every station in my area and the tanker that delivers fuel to the farm has non-E premium grade gas.
I've penciled it out, in the vehicles even though the price of premium non-E is higher the greater miles per gallon from it actually saves you money even over the price of the lowest grade E gas.
As far as having to be a mechanic, no as long as you buy quality equipment and maintain it you should only have simple problems to deal with.