Dixie Chopper 2017 Blackhawk HP Kohler Engine Oil Seal Leaking :(

[oldgearhead]

I have received excellent help here for all my previous issues with this mower. Just a rant - DONE with Dixie Choppers.

Here are the details of my mower:

• 2017 Dixie Chopper Blackhawk HP 2560 KOE purchased in 2018
• Kohler EZT 740 S/N: 4702504833

After many issues this summer, I now have a oil seal leaking on the bottom of the Kohler. I have the part number, ready to order but I have a few questions:
1) Videos online showing individuals installing a screw and pulling out the seal with either pliers or a hammer (like removing a nail). Is this the best way of removing the seal on the lower end of the mower? Better procedures?
2) How do you keep the engine from turning when removing the screw, holding the pulleys? Is this the same method when installing the screw and what torque do you suggest ?
3) What is the best method or tool to use for installing the new seal?
3) Do the pulleys (clutch for blades and drive) require a puller to remove or can you remove them without one? If a puller is required can you suggest what you use for this removal?

Thanks for any assistance. And just as an update from previous posts, the accelerator cable has made it so far without fail, the idler spring is working great, when replacing the idler spring I noticed the LH Parker pulley was not running true. I replaced the LH Parker as I could not find anyone to rebuild (long story). After I replaced the tranny the RH now is leaking and the engine seal is leaking. LOL, what a summer it has been.

Thank you for assisting and listening,

 

[mechanic mark]

See page 27 in Service Manual below for oil leak possibilities.

https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/16_690_07_EN.pdf?_ga=2.241626882.1044122509.1689633286-1965317171.1688685375

HOW TO REPLACE CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALS ON KOHLER EZT740 ENGINE - Google Search

www.google.com

 

[Bertrrr]

You can remove the seal pretty much any way you want , it's no longer being used so don't worry about destroying it in the process, I've pulled many by punching a sharp screwdriver or something and prying it out of the fit. Be sure and dress the whole area / shaft and seal fit with emory cloth or find sand paper

 

[bertsmobile1]

1) take a photo & accurately measure how deep in the hole the old seal is so the new one can go back on the same place
2) the PTO & drive pulley will just pull strait down off, it may be rusted on a bit so require some hard pulling, do not have your face directly under it because like tomato sauce ( ketchup to some ) it will stay there then suddenly come off with a rush .
3) as Bertrrr mentioned screws, picks screwdrivers all work but be careful you do not drive anything in too deep & damage the surfaces behind the seal
I usually drill a tiny hole with my Dremmel tool then screw in a self tapper & pull with a wrecking bar against a block of wood
Some times I need 2 holes & screws
4) clean the whole area really well before you pull the seal
5) as BERTrrr also mentioned clean & polish the PTO shaft
6) wrap the shaft with a small amount of cling wrap where the key slot is to prevent it damaging the lip of the seal
7) coat the inner surface of the seal with lalonin grease or petrolium jelly , be generous, slop some on the shaft as well.
8) If you have a 1" shaft then you can use a 1" drive socket to knock it in , I have a lather so I have drifts with close fitting centre hoe so the seal has to go in square , otherwise it is a small hammer for the initial insertion followed by a 1/4 pin punch placed tight against the outer edge
If you hit it in the middle of the flat section you will bend the steel backing and the seal lip may distort & leak
Allow all day to do it and do not rush of this effort may end up as a trial run.

 

[oldgearhead]

See page 27 in Service Manual below for oil leak possibilities.

https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/16_690_07_EN.pdf?_ga=2.241626882.1044122509.1689633286-1965317171.1688685375

HOW TO REPLACE CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALS ON KOHLER EZT740 ENGINE - Google Search

www.google.com

Thank you, I will review this in preparation for the seal replacement.

 

[oldgearhead]

You can remove the seal pretty much any way you want , it's no longer being used so don't worry about destroying it in the process, I've pulled many by punching a sharp screwdriver or something and prying it out of the fit. Be sure and dress the whole area / shaft and seal fit with emory cloth or find sand paper

Thank you.

 

[oldgearhead]

1) take a photo & accurately measure how deep in the hole the old seal is so the new one can go back on the same place
2) the PTO & drive pulley will just pull strait down off, it may be rusted on a bit so require some hard pulling, do not have your face directly under it because like tomato sauce ( ketchup to some ) it will stay there then suddenly come off with a rush .
3) as Bertrrr mentioned screws, picks screwdrivers all work but be careful you do not drive anything in too deep & damage the surfaces behind the seal
I usually drill a tiny hole with my Dremmel tool then screw in a self tapper & pull with a wrecking bar against a block of wood
Some times I need 2 holes & screws
4) clean the whole area really well before you pull the seal
5) as BERTrrr also mentioned clean & polish the PTO shaft
6) wrap the shaft with a small amount of cling wrap where the key slot is to prevent it damaging the lip of the seal
7) coat the inner surface of the seal with lalonin grease or petrolium jelly , be generous, slop some on the shaft as well.
8) If you have a 1" shaft then you can use a 1" drive socket to knock it in , I have a lather so I have drifts with close fitting centre hoe so the seal has to go in square , otherwise it is a small hammer for the initial insertion followed by a 1/4 pin punch placed tight against the outer edge
If you hit it in the middle of the flat section you will bend the steel backing and the seal lip may distort & leak
Allow all day to do it and do not rush of this effort may end up as a trial run.

Thank you. I'll keep everyone informed once I receive the seal and attempt the change. I appreciate the assistance.

 

[Rivets]

The only thing I have to add to the other posts is, what I do when I have a long crankshaft where the socket is not deep enough. I have made myself a variety of setting tools out of pieces of pipe. Each one is a different ID and about 8” long. I round the end which goes against the seal, making sure it is smooth with no burrs. Being longer it is easy to see how deep I am setting the seal, and it is easier to hold on to.

 

[slomo]

Just a rant - DONE with Dixie Choppers.

All you talked about was engine issues. Dixie doesn't make the engine.

Having said that, I would keep away from Dixie's anyway. There is a huge section on here about them and all the problems. Cubs are the same.

 

[oldgearhead]

The only thing I have to add to the other posts is, what I do when I have a long crankshaft where the socket is not deep enough. I have made myself a variety of setting tools out of pieces of pipe. Each one is a different ID and about 8” long. I round the end which goes against the seal, making sure it is smooth with no burrs. Being longer it is easy to see how deep I am setting the seal, and it is easier to hold on to.

Thank you for the extra hint. I appreciate it.