Cub LT1050 dead in the water.

[dugin]

Hi all, another question, if the two small solenoid wires somehow became detached while mower was running would it continue to run ??? Until shut off?? And do I have them reversed possibly?? Are you saying would not have started if both orange and green wires were disconnected?? I'll. Try reversing them tomorrow. ALso no dash lights whatsoever when I turn key.? Thanks for any help or suggestions. Dougin.

 

[kbowley]

No the solenoid does not activate / click, starting to lean towards bad ign. Switch.

I recommend first checking if there is power going to small hot wire on the side of the solenoid when you move the starter to the start position. You really don't want to start throwing parts at it. Let's find out what the problem is okay.

 

[dugin]

Just remember the brake and PTO switches are also in the starter solenoid + 12V path. And I would not rule out a loose wire terminal since these connectors uses F56 terminals.

Thanks for that, ring it out

 

[kbowley]

Hi all, another question, if the two small solenoid wires somehow became detached while mower was running would it continue to run ??? Until shut off?? And do I have them reversed possibly?? Are you saying would not have started if both orange and green wires were disconnected?? I'll. Try reversing them tomorrow. ALso no dash lights whatsoever when I turn key.? Thanks for any help or suggestions. Dougin.

Hi, good thought but it does not matter which terminals you connect the two small wires to. It is simply an electromagnet. Check for power to the orange wire when the key is moved to start. Also check the ohms on the green wire to any ground with the parking brake on and the PTO off. As you can see, the terminals are not marked as + or -.

 

[dugin]

Hi, good thought but it does not matter which terminals you connect the two small wires to. It is simply an electromagnet. Check for power to the orange wire when the key is moved to start. Also check the ohms on the green wire to any ground with the parking brake on and the PTO off. As you can see, the terminals are not marked as + or -.View attachment 69537

Sorry is taking me so long, too many honey do jobs. Ha anyway, pulled solenoid, kinda rusty but mounting surface is painted? Gonna clean some paint off. Checked ohms at org. wire and got reading of 5.0 ?? That was with sol. hanging loose, is that correct way ?? Let me know. Next step is get rid of paint and mount sol. unIess i hear different. and continue on with ck. List Thanks for all the help you guys!!!!!!!!

 

[dugin]

Sorry is taking me so long, too many honey do jobs. Ha anyway, pulled solenoid, kinda rusty but mounting surface is painted? Gonna clean some paint off. Checked ohms at org. wire and got reading of 5.0 ?? That was with sol. hanging loose, is that correct way ?? Let me know. Next step is get rid of paint and mount sol. unIess i hear different. and continue on with ck. List Thanks for all the help you guys!!!!!!!!

Oops, you said gr. wire Dang it doug, pay attention!!!

 

[kbowley]

Oops, you said gr. wire Dang it doug, pay attention!!!

orange should read infinity ohms without the key on.

 

[StarTech]

Well here is the problem I see referencing the schematic and the solenoid picture. The schematic indicates what most refers to as a three pole solenoid. Three pole solenoids are grounded thru their mounting flange where the four pole are not. On four pole solenoids you must either has a safety system that provide the grounding wiring or you must provide a jumper to ground from one of the smaller terminals.

Since the OP has indicated which solenoid has at hand.

Personally I think the OP is in over his head on this one and should let a local shop fix the problem. It would save a lot of time and headaches as it could be as simple as a bad wire terminal. But I will have to admit most shops don't know what they are doing here locally either as I had to straighten out several their techs hatchet jobs. Matter of fact I just straighten one out last week where they completely removed the engine's coil kill harness. All over a bad connector at the seat switch. They were depending on the fuel solenoid on the carburetor to shut down the mower which failed. When the customer called them about the engine not shutting down they simple just run it out of gas. Well the customer had a full tank of 4 gallons which took several hours to run out.

 

[kbowley]

Well here is the problem I see referencing the schematic and the solenoid picture. The schematic indicates what most refers to as a three pole solenoid. Three pole solenoids are grounded thru their mounting flange where the four pole are not. On four pole solenoids you must either has a safety system that provide the grounding wiring or you must provide a jumper to ground from one of the smaller terminals.

Since the OP has indicated which solenoid has at hand.

Personally I think the OP is in over his head on this one and should let a local shop fix the problem. It would save a lot of time and headaches as it could be as simple as a bad wire terminal. But I will have to admit most shops don't know what they are doing here locally either as I had to straighten out several their techs hatchet jobs. Matter of fact I just straighten one out last week where they completely removed the engine's coil kill harness. All over a bad connector at the seat switch. They were depending on the fuel solenoid on the carburetor to shut down the mower which failed. When the customer called them about the engine not shutting down they simple just run it out of gas. Well the customer had a full tank of 4 gallons which took several hours to run out.

The Cub Cadet schematic is erroneous; it is a four-post solenoid. Take a closer look. With the parking brake applied and the PTO switch turned off, the green wire should show zero resistance. Also, it shows a relay in the harness, there is none, it is built into the dash hour meter/warning lights.

 

[StarTech]

Then why is this relay doing in the wiring harness? Its there in all four different harnesses.