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Cub LT1050 dead in the water.

#1

D

dugin

HEllo, brand new nube, here. Ancient shade tree mech. Need help with my 1050 mower.Ran fine, shut it off and 15 Min. Later nothing. No lights on dash, but clutch energies. I know, start with simple things first and go from there!! But any pointers in the right direction from the gurus here will be much appreciated. Kohler courage engine THANKS


#2

R

Rivets

Simple things first.
1. Unit is in park, brake petal fully depressed.
2. PTO switch is OFF.
3. Fuse is good.
4. Battery connections clean and tight.

If all these are good, report back with units model and serial numbers (under the seat) and engine numbers off the Kohler ID tag.


#3

StarTech

StarTech

Geee I thought first you had to get it out of the water......I done had to drag my mower out the pond twice in the last tens years.


#4

D

dugin

Rivets said:
Simple things first.
1. Unit is in park, brake petal fully depressed.
2. PTO switch is OFF.
3. Fuse is good.
4. Battery connections clean and tight.

If all these are good, report back with units model and serial numbers (under the seat) and engine numbers off the Kohler ID tag.
Click to expand...
OK, I'm back, fuse good, batt.clean &tite, etc. It is lt1050, mod 13rp11cp765 Ser 1D507H20659 mfd. 4-2007 500 or so hrs. Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!


#5

D

dugin

dugin said:
OK, I'm back, fuse good, batt.clean &tite, etc. It is lt1050, mod 13rp11cp765 Ser 1D507H20659 mfd. 4-2007 500 or so hrs. Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...


#6

D

dugin

dugin said:
OK, I'm back, fuse good, batt.clean &tite, etc. It is lt1050, mod 13rp11cp765 Ser 1D507H20659 mfd. 4-2007 500 or so hrs. Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
Sorry about dat. Seat switch,?? Ignition switch???? I'm not great with elec.


#7

R

Rivets

At this point I use this procedure to locate the problem.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.

1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.



Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.


#8

StarTech

StarTech

1724363057907.png


#9

D

dugin

StarTech said:
Geee I thought first you had to get it out of the water......I done had to drag my mower out the pond twice in the last tens years.
Click to expand...
Hi starTech, I thought I would get more reaction from my remark, ha ha. But no it wasn't in the pond!!! Thank heaven, lived here 59 yrs and I'm proud to say I have managed to stay dry.


#10

D

dugin

dugin said:
Hi starTech, I thought I would get more reaction from my remark, ha ha. But no it wasn't in the pond!!! Thank heaven, lived here 59 yrs and I'm proud to say I have managed to stay dry.
Click to expand...
50 yrs.


#11

D

dugin

Rivets said:
At this point I use this procedure to locate the problem.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.

1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.



Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Click to expand...


#12

D

dugin

Rivets thanks, s sorry for delay, wife sick, #1 fair elec, knowledge, wired my house.
#2 have enough tools. #3 I'm married, nuff said. #4 hear you.!!! Oops wife calling, get back to you. Thanks


#13

StarTech

StarTech

In that case hopefully you can follow the wiring schematic.

And at least you are not as hen pecked as I am. Princess nearly got me in the eye this morning. I told her if kept it up it was the frying pan for her.


#14

D

dugin

StarTech said:
In that case hopefully you can follow the wiring schematic.

And at least you are not as hen pecked as I am. Princess nearly got me in the eye this morning. I told her if kept it up it was the frying pan for her.
Click to expand...
OUCH!!!😎


#15

D

dugin

Ok rivets,
Rivets said:
At this point I use this procedure to locate the problem.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.

1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.



Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Click to expand...
Ok. Bypassed seat switch!!. Found solenoid, big terminal on right is hot key on or off. 2 small spade connections had both wires DISCONECTED??? Re connected then I think properly? Sm.green wire below upper big hot terminal. Orange wire at left terminal. ? No change, nothing!! I'm continuing on with checks. THANKS FOR YOUR HELO SND PATIENCE!!!


#16

D

dugin

dugin said:
Ok rivets,

Ok. Bypassed seat switch!!. Found solenoid, big terminal on right is hot key on or off. 2 small spade connections had both wires DISCONECTED??? Re connected then I think properly? Sm.green wire below upper big hot terminal. Orange wire at left terminal. ? No change, nothing!! I'm continuing on with checks. THANKS FOR YOUR HELO SND PATIENCE!!!
Click to expand...
HELP AND PATIENCE!!!


#17

kbowley

kbowley

dugin said:
Ok rivets,

Ok. Bypassed seat switch!!. Found solenoid, big terminal on right is hot key on or off. 2 small spade connections had both wires DISCONECTED??? Re connected then I think properly? Sm.green wire below upper big hot terminal. Orange wire at left terminal. ? No change, nothing!! I'm continuing on with checks. THANKS FOR YOUR HELO SND PATIENCE!!!
Click to expand...
Okay, first, your fuse is okay since your pto clutch will turn on. Next; Does it "Click" when you turn the ignition to the start position? Strange the wires were not on the solenoid...I wonder how it was able to start prior to finding that issue? So, does the machine make a "click" when you move it to the start position?
"


#18

D

dugin

kbowley said:
Okay, first, your fuse is okay since your pto clutch will turn on. Next; Does it "Click" when you turn the ignition to the start position? Strange the wires were not on the solenoid...I wonder how it was able to start prior to finding that issue? So, does the machine make a "click" when you move it to the start position?
"
Click to expand...
No the solenoid does not activate / click, starting to lean towards bad ign. Switch.


#19

D

dugin

dugin said:
No the solenoid does not activate / click, starting to lean towards bad ign. Switch.
Click to expand...


#20

StarTech

StarTech

Just remember the brake and PTO switches are also in the starter solenoid + 12V path. And I would not rule out a loose wire terminal since these connectors uses F56 terminals.


#21

D

dugin

Hi all, another question, if the two small solenoid wires somehow became detached while mower was running would it continue to run ??? Until shut off?? And do I have them reversed possibly?? Are you saying would not have started if both orange and green wires were disconnected?? I'll. Try reversing them tomorrow. ALso no dash lights whatsoever when I turn key.? Thanks for any help or suggestions. Dougin.


#22

kbowley

kbowley

dugin said:
No the solenoid does not activate / click, starting to lean towards bad ign. Switch.
Click to expand...
I recommend first checking if there is power going to small hot wire on the side of the solenoid when you move the starter to the start position. You really don't want to start throwing parts at it. Let's find out what the problem is okay.


#23

D

dugin

StarTech said:
Just remember the brake and PTO switches are also in the starter solenoid + 12V path. And I would not rule out a loose wire terminal since these connectors uses F56 terminals.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that, ring it out


#24

kbowley

kbowley

dugin said:
Hi all, another question, if the two small solenoid wires somehow became detached while mower was running would it continue to run ??? Until shut off?? And do I have them reversed possibly?? Are you saying would not have started if both orange and green wires were disconnected?? I'll. Try reversing them tomorrow. ALso no dash lights whatsoever when I turn key.? Thanks for any help or suggestions. Dougin.
Click to expand...
Hi, good thought but it does not matter which terminals you connect the two small wires to. It is simply an electromagnet. Check for power to the orange wire when the key is moved to start. Also check the ohms on the green wire to any ground with the parking brake on and the PTO off. As you can see, the terminals are not marked as + or -.solinoid.jpg


#25

D

dugin

kbowley said:
Hi, good thought but it does not matter which terminals you connect the two small wires to. It is simply an electromagnet. Check for power to the orange wire when the key is moved to start. Also check the ohms on the green wire to any ground with the parking brake on and the PTO off. As you can see, the terminals are not marked as + or -.View attachment 69537
Click to expand...
Sorry is taking me so long, too many honey do jobs. Ha anyway, pulled solenoid, kinda rusty but mounting surface is painted? Gonna clean some paint off. Checked ohms at org. wire and got reading of 5.0 ?? That was with sol. hanging loose, is that correct way ?? Let me know. Next step is get rid of paint and mount sol. unIess i hear different. and continue on with ck. List Thanks for all the help you guys!!!!!!!!


#26

D

dugin

dugin said:
Sorry is taking me so long, too many honey do jobs. Ha anyway, pulled solenoid, kinda rusty but mounting surface is painted? Gonna clean some paint off. Checked ohms at org. wire and got reading of 5.0 ?? That was with sol. hanging loose, is that correct way ?? Let me know. Next step is get rid of paint and mount sol. unIess i hear different. and continue on with ck. List Thanks for all the help you guys!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
Oops, you said gr. wire Dang it doug, pay attention!!!


#27

kbowley

kbowley

dugin said:
Oops, you said gr. wire Dang it doug, pay attention!!!
Click to expand...
orange should read infinity ohms without the key on.


#28

StarTech

StarTech

Well here is the problem I see referencing the schematic and the solenoid picture. The schematic indicates what most refers to as a three pole solenoid. Three pole solenoids are grounded thru their mounting flange where the four pole are not. On four pole solenoids you must either has a safety system that provide the grounding wiring or you must provide a jumper to ground from one of the smaller terminals.

Since the OP has indicated which solenoid has at hand.

Personally I think the OP is in over his head on this one and should let a local shop fix the problem. It would save a lot of time and headaches as it could be as simple as a bad wire terminal. But I will have to admit most shops don't know what they are doing here locally either as I had to straighten out several their techs hatchet jobs. Matter of fact I just straighten one out last week where they completely removed the engine's coil kill harness. All over a bad connector at the seat switch. They were depending on the fuel solenoid on the carburetor to shut down the mower which failed. When the customer called them about the engine not shutting down they simple just run it out of gas. Well the customer had a full tank of 4 gallons which took several hours to run out.


#29

kbowley

kbowley

StarTech said:
Well here is the problem I see referencing the schematic and the solenoid picture. The schematic indicates what most refers to as a three pole solenoid. Three pole solenoids are grounded thru their mounting flange where the four pole are not. On four pole solenoids you must either has a safety system that provide the grounding wiring or you must provide a jumper to ground from one of the smaller terminals.

Since the OP has indicated which solenoid has at hand.

Personally I think the OP is in over his head on this one and should let a local shop fix the problem. It would save a lot of time and headaches as it could be as simple as a bad wire terminal. But I will have to admit most shops don't know what they are doing here locally either as I had to straighten out several their techs hatchet jobs. Matter of fact I just straighten one out last week where they completely removed the engine's coil kill harness. All over a bad connector at the seat switch. They were depending on the fuel solenoid on the carburetor to shut down the mower which failed. When the customer called them about the engine not shutting down they simple just run it out of gas. Well the customer had a full tank of 4 gallons which took several hours to run out.
Click to expand...
The Cub Cadet schematic is erroneous; it is a four-post solenoid. Take a closer look. With the parking brake applied and the PTO switch turned off, the green wire should show zero resistance. Also, it shows a relay in the harness, there is none, it is built into the dash hour meter/warning lights.


#30

StarTech

StarTech

Then why is this relay doing in the wiring harness? Its there in all four different harnesses.
1724878032896.png


#31

D

dugin

StarTech said:
Well here is the problem I see referencing the schematic and the solenoid picture. The schematic indicates what most refers to as a three pole solenoid. Three pole solenoids are grounded thru their mounting flange where the four pole are not. On four pole solenoids you must either has a safety system that provide the grounding wiring or you must provide a jumper to ground from one of the smaller terminals.

Since the OP has indicated which solenoid has at hand.

Personally I think the OP is in over his head on this one and should let a local shop fix the problem. It would save a lot of time and headaches as it could be as simple as a bad wire terminal. But I will have to admit most shops don't know what they are doing here locally either as I had to straighten out several their techs hatchet jobs. Matter of fact I just straighten one out last week where they completely removed the engine's coil kill harness. All over a bad connector at the seat switch. They were depending on the fuel solenoid on the carburetor to shut down the mower which failed. When the customer called them about the engine not shutting down they simple just run it out of gas. Well the customer had a full tank of 4 gallons which took several hours to run out.
Click to expand...
Hello star tech, you bet I'm in over my head, that's why I'm asking for help. Anyway more backround, bought the mower last year, brake is not working, the linkage is disconnected and I'm ok with that as the mower ran fine, yes I'm challenged using multimeter!!! So please help me learn, I'm A young 80 yr old can you teach an old dog some new tricks??? Its an old backup mower but worth fixing. So try to bear with me on this. Thanks


#32

D

dugin

StarTech said:
Then why is this relay doing in the wiring harness? Its there in all four different harnesses.
View attachment 69568
Click to expand...
You call it a relay, I'd call it a fuse block, just terminology??


#33

D

dugin

Rivets said:
At this point I use this procedure to locate the problem.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.

1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.



Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Click to expand...
Hello rivets, thanks for this info. I'm very busy with "life" at the moment, besides keeping 6+ acres mowed!! Its gonna take me a while to go through the list so bear with me, this heat isn't helping either. Will get back when I have info to share Thanks for.your help. PS I believe what happened was I was in the woods mowing trails and a branch got into engine compartment and dislodged both sm. solenoid sm. Wires ????? Crazier things have happened right!!! The mower kept running till I shut it off. Towed it home started to check things, that's when I found two loose solenoid wires connected them but that didnt fix things. So back to your trouble shooting list when I get the time. Thanks


#34

D

dugin

StarTech said:
Just remember the brake and PTO switches are also in the starter solenoid + 12V path. And I would not rule out a loose wire terminal since these connectors uses F56 terminals.
Click to expand...
OK, so we know the pto switch is ok so on to the brake switch next..thanks Star tech.!!!


#35

D

dugin

kbowley said:
Okay, first, your fuse is okay since your pto clutch will turn on. Next; Does it "Click" when you turn the ignition to the start position? Strange the wires were not on the solenoid...I wonder how it was able to start prior to finding that issue? So, does the machine make a "click" when you move it to the start position?
"
Click to expand...
Kbowley, My guess is the two sm. wires became dislodged while I was mowing trails in the woods, because if I understand you there is no way the mower would start with them both disconnected, rite??? But would run until shutoff??


#36

R

Rivets

Start by tracing the wires according to the schematic Star provided. When you are sure that everything is hooked up according to the schematic then start going through the procedure I provided. DO NOT REVERSE THIS STEP. NO need to do any testing until you know the wiring is correct. Doing in this order will take time, but could easily save you a lot of headaches down the road.


#37

kbowley

kbowley

StarTech said:
Then why is this relay doing in the wiring harness? Its there in all four different harnesses.
View attachment 69568
Click to expand...
Well, a couple of weeks ago I spent two days chasing ghosts in the harness of an LTX1046VT, and it shows a relay. Of course, he had been tinkering with it and threw new aftermarket Amazon everything at it and made a mess. He even put a new PTO clutch on it! I pulled the whole tractor apart, including removing the fuel tank (PITA) to get at the harness on the steering tower, and still no relay was found, and yet it shows in the diagram. So, it must be well hidden, as I also pulled the fender pan. The diagram shows the relay in the PTO circuit but no sign of it. However, there is a "click" sound in the warning light system that plugs in to the hour meter, and I assumed that it must be part of that circuit. I usually have zero issues finding wiring issues but that one had me totally stumped. I ended up bypassing a couple of grounds (not safety switches) to get it up and running. I gave him a call a couple of days ago, and he said it is running great. Today he called having the same issue. Coming back tomorrow...not looking forward to it.

Attachments





#38

kbowley

kbowley

dugin said:
Kbowley, My guess is the two sm. wires became dislodged while I was mowing trails in the woods, because if I understand you there is no way the mower would start with them both disconnected, rite??? But would run until shutoff??
Click to expand...
You are correct in your question. Now, check the ohms to ground on the green wire that connects to the solenoid with the parking brake on and the key in the run position. It should have zero ohms of resistance. Next, check the voltage on the orange wire to ground while placing the key to the start position. It should read close to the same as the battery with a slight drop because of slight resistance in the long length of wire. For example, if the battery voltage reads 12.5, the orange wire may read 12.3. Regarding your question about the paint/corrosion on the solenoid mount, irrelevant, it is grounded via the green wire.


#39

StarTech

StarTech

kbowley said:
Well, a couple of weeks ago I spent two days chasing ghosts in the harness of an LTX1046VT, and it shows a relay. Of course, he had been tinkering with it and threw new aftermarket Amazon everything at it and made a mess. He even put a new PTO clutch on it! I pulled the whole tractor apart, including removing the fuel tank (PITA) to get at the harness on the steering tower, and still no relay was found, and yet it shows in the diagram. So, it must be well hidden, as I also pulled the fender pan. The diagram shows the relay in the PTO circuit but no sign of it. However, there is a "click" sound in the warning light system that plugs in to the hour meter, and I assumed that it must be part of that circuit. I usually have zero issues finding wiring issues but that one had me totally stumped. I ended up bypassing a couple of grounds (not safety switches) to get it up and running. I gave him a call a couple of days ago, and he said it is running great. Today he called having the same issue. Coming back tomorrow...not looking forward to it.
Click to expand...

It is there you just got to know what you are looking for.

Late model
1725106558190.png
Early model
1725106768705.png
So here is the relay
1725107089203.png


#40

D

dugin

StarTech said:
It is there you just got to know what you are looking for.

Late model
View attachment 69599
Early model
View attachment 69600
So here is the relay
View attachment 69601
Click to expand...
Ok guys, I had some time to work on the lT 1050. Found the relay # HFV6 it is quote, 20amp-12vDC then directly below that it says 10amp-12vDC it is 5pin it has 1green wire, 1white w green stripe, 1red, 1white, and ,1yellow w black stripe. Do we have schematic for lT, 1050? Or don't it matter? Anyone want to walk me thru checking out this relay??🤔 help!!!!


#41

D

dugin

dugin said:
Ok guys, I had some time to work on the lT 1050. Found the relay # HFV6 it is quote, 20amp-12vDC then directly below that it says 10amp-12vDC it is 5pin it has 1green wire, 1white w green stripe, 1red, 1white, and ,1yellow w black stripe. Do we have schematic for lT, 1050? Or don't it matter? Anyone want to walk me thru checking out this relay??🤔 help!!!!
Click to expand...
PS, forgot the numbers
just above amp info. O12ZS-TR(555). Took a pic but is not very clear. Sorry


#42

D

dugin

dugin said:
PS, forgot the numbers
just above amp info. O12ZS-TR(555). Took a pic but is not very clear. Sorry
Click to expand...
PPS, relay pin locations just like last pic.


#43

StarTech

StarTech

1725396252619.png
The relay is pretty self explaining.

With no voltage applied to pins 1 and 2 you have continuity between pins 3 and 4.
With voltage applied to pins 1 and 2 you have continuity between pins 3 and 5.

The way relay is setup it latches up when it receives a signal from the reverse switch which you have to cycle the PTO switch to reset; unless you have the bypass mode active via RMC panel. Otherwords when in the normal operating position and you try to back up with the blade turning it kills the deck operation until you are out of reverse and you cycle the PTO switch.


#44

D

dugin

dugin said:
PS, forgot the numbers
just above amp info. O12ZS-TR(555). Took a pic but is not very clear. Sorry
Click to expand...
PPS, relay pin location is the same as last pic.


#45

D

dugin

StarTech said:
View attachment 69634
The relay is pretty self explaining.

With no voltage applied to pins 1 and 2 you have continuity between pins 3 and 4.
With voltage applied to pins 1 and 2 you have continuity between pins 3 and 5.

The way relay is setup it latches up when it receives a signal from the reverse switch which you have to cycle the PTO switch to reset; unless you have the bypass mode active via RMC panel. Otherwords when in the normal operating position and you try to back up with the blade turning it kills the deck operation until you are out of reverse and you cycle the PTO switch.
Click to expand...
I believe I'm second owner of this mower, and I have never had to bypass rev. safety. It mows fwd. and rev. Do I replace relay? Or is it good? I like not having to mess with rev. Kill


#46

D

dugin

dugin said:
I believe I'm second owner of this mower, and I have never had to bypass rev. safety. It mows fwd. and rev. Do I replace relay? Or is it good? I like not having to mess with rev. Kill
Click to expand...
So the relay is stuck in 3-4? Bet you guys are getting a laugh out of my dumb questions.😂😂😂😂


#47

StarTech

StarTech

IF the reverse circuit has been disable the relay simply stay in its rest position; therefore the PTO operates all the time when active even if you are backing up. Quite simple to disable but can't tell how due liability issues.

Besides I don't like hearing about people getting injured because a safety system was intentionally disabled.


#48

D

dugin

StarTech said:
IF the reverse circuit has been disable the relay simply stay in its rest position; therefore the PTO operates all the time when active even if you are backing up. Quite simple to disable but can't tell how due liability issues.

Besides I don't like hearing about people getting injured because a safety system was intentionally disabled.
Click to expand...
Yay star tech, I didn't get to be 80 yo. by doing dumb things, still have all my fingers and toes, never had any broken bones etc. etc. But can't blame them for trying to protect everyone including those that arent too smart! Have to protect them from themselves!!! Yes I don't fully understand schematics and I do understand my shortcomings. Thanks for all your help sofar. Doug,/ Dougin.


#49

StarTech

StarTech

Well you got 15yrs on me. Nothing broke or cut off yet. But boy getting old is a pain otherwise. I seem to falling apart after 60. I just got on Medicare and SS back in July. First time I had medical insurance since 2006 when I got layoff in the corporate downsizing fad.

And there are times I wonder why try to protect so idiots as there a lot less of them to deal with if we didn't.:LOL:

Just keep plugging along and learning as you go or at least that what I am doing. And never be afraid ask for help when needed.

As for schematics I had spent two years in technical school learning electronics and have spent the last 45 yrs using that knowledge and they still throw new curves at me by changing things around.


#50

kbowley

kbowley

dugin said:
Yay star tech, I didn't get to be 80 yo. by doing dumb things, still have all my fingers and toes, never had any broken bones etc. etc. But can't blame them for trying to protect everyone including those that arent too smart! Have to protect them from themselves!!! Yes I don't fully understand schematics and I do understand my shortcomings. Thanks for all your help sofar. Doug,/ Dougin.
Click to expand...
Dugin, where exactly did you find the relay on the machine? I'd be dancing the jig if I could find it on that ltx1046vt. Of note, the reverse safety switch was removed on that machine.


#51

D

dugin

kbowley said:
Dugin, where exactly did you find the relay on the machine? I'd be dancing the jig if I could find it on that ltx1046vt. Of note, the reverse safety switch was removed on that machine.
Click to expand...
Kbowley On the slt, 1554 it comes off main harness a few inches below ign.switch on left side, easy access but dang hard to separate.


#52

kbowley

kbowley

dugin said:
Kbowley On the slt, 1554 it comes off main harness a few inches below ign.switch on left side, easy access but dang hard to separate.
Click to expand...
On the LTX, the wires run from the ignition, hour meter, and pto directly to the center of the dash and run down behind the steering shaft. Gotta pull the engine cover to remove the fuel tank to get at them...PITA. I must have missed it, as I didn't unwrap the harness cover back there, just traced from end to end since I could access all the connection ends. One would think they would place the relay outside the wrap to access it.


#53

D

dugin

kbowley said:
On the LTX, the wires run from the ignition, hour meter, and pto directly to the center of the dash and run down behind the steering shaft. Gotta pull the engine cover to remove the fuel tank to get at them...PITA. I must have missed it, as I didn't unwrap the harness cover back there, just traced from end to end since I could access all the connection ends. One would think they would place the relay outside the wrap to access it.
Click to expand...
Kbowley, are you saying relay was bundled in the main harness?? If so it sounds like somebody goofed! I'm confused.


#54

kbowley

kbowley

dugin said:
Kbowley, are you saying relay was bundled in the main harness?? If so it sounds like somebody goofed! I'm confused.
Click to expand...
I did not see it, so it must have been. It must have been in the harness behind the gasoline tank and I missed it since I was looking for it.


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