Craftsman Lawn Tractor won't start

[AnthonyG]

My Craftsman 18 HP-OHV Model # 917-273391 won't start, again.
It has a new battery, solenoid, ignition switch & starter.

I was jumping from battery to starter to start it. Sometimes it worked sometimes it did not. Now it won't start at all. It only clicks.

Would appreciate advice!

 

[Rivets]

As I have posted many times, using this procedure should help you out.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[AnthonyG]

As I have posted many times, using this procedure should help you out.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

Thank you,
I don't have the two things I need to do the tests so it might be awhile before I get back.

 

[Fish]

Rapid clicking usually means a poor connection, usually at the battery terminals, or solenoid or where it grounds to the frame, so look for dirty and loose connectons,
then clean and tighten.

 

[reynoldston]

My Craftsman 18 HP-OHV Model # 917-273391 won't start, again.
It has a new battery, solenoid, ignition switch & starter.

I was jumping from battery to starter to start it. Sometimes it worked sometimes it did not. Now it won't start at all. It only clicks.

Would appreciate advice!

Rivets is giving some good advice here. But it looks to me like you are just buying parts with hopes to cure the problem. What I would add, is you start with a wiring diagram. All the parts you have changed could of been tested without buying new. What I would do is start on the starter circuit and then take your wiring diagram and follow it till you find the problem. It dose take some electrical skills. Good luck to both you and Rivets.

 

[GentlemanFahmah]

An area often overlooked when checking connections is the ground cable at the tractor frame. It is usually tucked up and under and not readily accessible and therefore often not serviced when chasing a problem like this. Remove that cable, wire brush the frame, and put it back if you haven't already. Also, you have seat and mower engage safety cutout switches that will cause the symptoms you describe if they are fouled, inoperative, or stuck in the wrong position. Definitely check those switches to make sure they are in order and working properly. I've had the blade engage safety switch get loose and fickle over time on older mowers that would do this. With all the parts you've thrown at this, I think I'd focus on that blade and seat safety switch after making sure the ground to frame is good.

 

[musky000]

As I have posted many times, using this procedure should help you out.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

I have the same issue. I can start mine by jumping to large leads of solenoid but not with the key. The solenoid is a four connector. two small ones, one black is ground and that is good. the white has no power. I traced it but cannot find an issue as to why it has no power to it. I put in a new ignition switch but no luck. I have ruled out my seat safety switch also. So not much left. Any thoughts? Could a relay be bad somewhere causing this? It looks like from my diagram the white wire prob just goes to the ignition switch so it is confusing.

Thanks for any help.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I have the same issue. I can start mine by jumping to large leads of solenoid but not with the key. The solenoid is a four connector. two small ones, one black is ground and that is good. the white has no power. I traced it but cannot find an issue as to why it has no power to it. I put in a new ignition switch but no luck. I have ruled out my seat safety switch also. So not much left. Any thoughts? Could a relay be bad somewhere causing this? It looks like from my diagram the white wire prob just goes to the ignition switch so it is confusing.

Thanks for any help.

Starter solenoid power does a full loop
Goes from the hot side via the thin red FUSED wire to the B terminal on the switch then across to the S terminal on the start switch .
From there it goes to the PTO switch , the brake switch , the neutral switch then back to the trigger wire on the starter solenoid.
This is a daisy chain so if one is bad then no power to the solenoid trigger.

 

[Rivets]

If you read my procedure, you have to provide me with some readings after each step. Since I am not there, you have to tell me what is happening. Without this info, I am just like you, guessing as how to solve the problem.

 

[musky000]

Starter solenoid power does a full loop
Goes from the hot side via the thin red FUSED wire to the B terminal on the switch then across to the S terminal on the start switch .
From there it goes to the PTO switch , the brake switch , the neutral switch then back to the trigger wire on the starter solenoid.
This is a daisy chain so if one is bad then no power to the solenoid trigger.

Okay. Still having issues. I replaced the PTO switch was indeed bad and now my blades spin so that is good.
I looked over all the wiring, no cuts or issues. So I replaced the brake switch which is a plunger type switch. Nothing. And I mentioned that I already put in a new ignition switch.

I cannot really find anything else left that is malfunctioning or needs replaced. I try not to just buy parts and toss them on.

So to further trouble shoot this what would you suggest? I don't see the neutral switch for this tractor ( it is a 2003 craftsman with the model number I listed earlier ).

Thanks for further help! ( it is kinda driving me crazy. I am about ready to wire a new switch that will bypass everything and will simply work off of an open or closed circuit across the solenoid terminals, basically a fancy screwdriver! )