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Craftsman Lawn Tractor won't start
#1
A
AnthonyG
A
AnthonyG
My Craftsman 18 HP-OHV Model # 917-273391 won't start, again.
It has a new battery, solenoid, ignition switch & starter.
I was jumping from battery to starter to start it. Sometimes it worked sometimes it did not. Now it won't start at all. It only clicks.
Would appreciate advice!
It has a new battery, solenoid, ignition switch & starter.
I was jumping from battery to starter to start it. Sometimes it worked sometimes it did not. Now it won't start at all. It only clicks.
Would appreciate advice!
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
As I have posted many times, using this procedure should help you out.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
#3
A
AnthonyG
Thank you,
I don't have the two things I need to do the tests so it might be awhile before I get back.
A
AnthonyG
As I have posted many times, using this procedure should help you out.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Thank you,
I don't have the two things I need to do the tests so it might be awhile before I get back.
#4
Fish
Fish
Rapid clicking usually means a poor connection, usually at the battery terminals, or solenoid or where it grounds to the frame, so look for dirty and loose connectons,
then clean and tighten.
then clean and tighten.
#5
reynoldston
Rivets is giving some good advice here. But it looks to me like you are just buying parts with hopes to cure the problem. What I would add, is you start with a wiring diagram. All the parts you have changed could of been tested without buying new. What I would do is start on the starter circuit and then take your wiring diagram and follow it till you find the problem. It dose take some electrical skills. Good luck to both you and Rivets.
reynoldston
My Craftsman 18 HP-OHV Model # 917-273391 won't start, again.
It has a new battery, solenoid, ignition switch & starter.
I was jumping from battery to starter to start it. Sometimes it worked sometimes it did not. Now it won't start at all. It only clicks.
Would appreciate advice!
Rivets is giving some good advice here. But it looks to me like you are just buying parts with hopes to cure the problem. What I would add, is you start with a wiring diagram. All the parts you have changed could of been tested without buying new. What I would do is start on the starter circuit and then take your wiring diagram and follow it till you find the problem. It dose take some electrical skills. Good luck to both you and Rivets.
#6
GentlemanFahmah
GentlemanFahmah
An area often overlooked when checking connections is the ground cable at the tractor frame. It is usually tucked up and under and not readily accessible and therefore often not serviced when chasing a problem like this. Remove that cable, wire brush the frame, and put it back if you haven't already. Also, you have seat and mower engage safety cutout switches that will cause the symptoms you describe if they are fouled, inoperative, or stuck in the wrong position. Definitely check those switches to make sure they are in order and working properly. I've had the blade engage safety switch get loose and fickle over time on older mowers that would do this. With all the parts you've thrown at this, I think I'd focus on that blade and seat safety switch after making sure the ground to frame is good.
#7
M
musky000
I have the same issue. I can start mine by jumping to large leads of solenoid but not with the key. The solenoid is a four connector. two small ones, one black is ground and that is good. the white has no power. I traced it but cannot find an issue as to why it has no power to it. I put in a new ignition switch but no luck. I have ruled out my seat safety switch also. So not much left. Any thoughts? Could a relay be bad somewhere causing this? It looks like from my diagram the white wire prob just goes to the ignition switch so it is confusing.
Thanks for any help.
M
musky000
As I have posted many times, using this procedure should help you out.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
I have the same issue. I can start mine by jumping to large leads of solenoid but not with the key. The solenoid is a four connector. two small ones, one black is ground and that is good. the white has no power. I traced it but cannot find an issue as to why it has no power to it. I put in a new ignition switch but no luck. I have ruled out my seat safety switch also. So not much left. Any thoughts? Could a relay be bad somewhere causing this? It looks like from my diagram the white wire prob just goes to the ignition switch so it is confusing.
Thanks for any help.
#8
B
bertsmobile1
Starter solenoid power does a full loop
Goes from the hot side via the thin red FUSED wire to the B terminal on the switch then across to the S terminal on the start switch .
From there it goes to the PTO switch , the brake switch , the neutral switch then back to the trigger wire on the starter solenoid.
This is a daisy chain so if one is bad then no power to the solenoid trigger.
B
bertsmobile1
I have the same issue. I can start mine by jumping to large leads of solenoid but not with the key. The solenoid is a four connector. two small ones, one black is ground and that is good. the white has no power. I traced it but cannot find an issue as to why it has no power to it. I put in a new ignition switch but no luck. I have ruled out my seat safety switch also. So not much left. Any thoughts? Could a relay be bad somewhere causing this? It looks like from my diagram the white wire prob just goes to the ignition switch so it is confusing.
Thanks for any help.
Starter solenoid power does a full loop
Goes from the hot side via the thin red FUSED wire to the B terminal on the switch then across to the S terminal on the start switch .
From there it goes to the PTO switch , the brake switch , the neutral switch then back to the trigger wire on the starter solenoid.
This is a daisy chain so if one is bad then no power to the solenoid trigger.
#9
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If you read my procedure, you have to provide me with some readings after each step. Since I am not there, you have to tell me what is happening. Without this info, I am just like you, guessing as how to solve the problem.
#10
M
musky000
Okay. Still having issues. I replaced the PTO switch was indeed bad and now my blades spin so that is good.
I looked over all the wiring, no cuts or issues. So I replaced the brake switch which is a plunger type switch. Nothing. And I mentioned that I already put in a new ignition switch.
I cannot really find anything else left that is malfunctioning or needs replaced. I try not to just buy parts and toss them on.
So to further trouble shoot this what would you suggest? I don't see the neutral switch for this tractor ( it is a 2003 craftsman with the model number I listed earlier ).
Thanks for further help! ( it is kinda driving me crazy. I am about ready to wire a new switch that will bypass everything and will simply work off of an open or closed circuit across the solenoid terminals, basically a fancy screwdriver! )
M
musky000
Starter solenoid power does a full loop
Goes from the hot side via the thin red FUSED wire to the B terminal on the switch then across to the S terminal on the start switch .
From there it goes to the PTO switch , the brake switch , the neutral switch then back to the trigger wire on the starter solenoid.
This is a daisy chain so if one is bad then no power to the solenoid trigger.
Okay. Still having issues. I replaced the PTO switch was indeed bad and now my blades spin so that is good.
I looked over all the wiring, no cuts or issues. So I replaced the brake switch which is a plunger type switch. Nothing. And I mentioned that I already put in a new ignition switch.
I cannot really find anything else left that is malfunctioning or needs replaced. I try not to just buy parts and toss them on.
So to further trouble shoot this what would you suggest? I don't see the neutral switch for this tractor ( it is a 2003 craftsman with the model number I listed earlier ).
Thanks for further help! ( it is kinda driving me crazy. I am about ready to wire a new switch that will bypass everything and will simply work off of an open or closed circuit across the solenoid terminals, basically a fancy screwdriver! )
#11
M
musky000
I did all those steps.
1. ) 12.6 volts, battery is fine. Terminals clean. No blown fuse.
2.) Battery to solenoid does have 12 volts all the time to red side.
3.) No power to white wire on 4 wire solenoid. The black small ground has continuity with the frame so it is grounded. This is with the key turned on and pedal depressed. New plunger switch for clutch/brake there did not help.
4.) No power to other side of solenoid with key turned to start position.
5.) No power to starter with key turned to start.
6.) Ground wire to battery is good. Good connection.
So it seems like there is a problem with no power to the white wire on the four connector solenoid. I read post about it running in a loop. I have worked on some of those issues but I am not sure what to look at next.
Thanks for any further thoughts. I do have my meter and test light and normally can figure wiring issues out but this one has me a bit stumped.
M
musky000
If you read my procedure, you have to provide me with some readings after each step. Since I am not there, you have to tell me what is happening. Without this info, I am just like you, guessing as how to solve the problem.
I did all those steps.
1. ) 12.6 volts, battery is fine. Terminals clean. No blown fuse.
2.) Battery to solenoid does have 12 volts all the time to red side.
3.) No power to white wire on 4 wire solenoid. The black small ground has continuity with the frame so it is grounded. This is with the key turned on and pedal depressed. New plunger switch for clutch/brake there did not help.
4.) No power to other side of solenoid with key turned to start position.
5.) No power to starter with key turned to start.
6.) Ground wire to battery is good. Good connection.
So it seems like there is a problem with no power to the white wire on the four connector solenoid. I read post about it running in a loop. I have worked on some of those issues but I am not sure what to look at next.
Thanks for any further thoughts. I do have my meter and test light and normally can figure wiring issues out but this one has me a bit stumped.
#12
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
You might have done those steps, but never told us the results. From what you posted, if you have no power to either of the small terminals on the solenoid, you must now go back to the key switch with you test light and see if you have power on the S terminal, with the key in the start position. If you have power there, then you have to flow the wire from the key switch to the solenoid. Some where along this path you are losing your 12 Volts. You need to check all 3 safety switches, seat, brake, and PTO, unless you have an electric PTO switch. Following thru a PTO switch is tough without a wiring diagram, but you can check if you have power in and power out if understand current flow.
#13
M
musky000
M
musky000
I finally got it! It was the plunger switch ( switch interlock ) for the brake/clutch. It was kind of hard to access it but that was the issue.
Cheap fix just took a while to trace all those items down. I'd only say now that the contacts are a bit worn, I cleaned it up with electrical contact cleaner so it seems to be good to go.
Thanks everyone for your advice and comments. It all helped ( if nothing else kept me looking )!
Cheap fix just took a while to trace all those items down. I'd only say now that the contacts are a bit worn, I cleaned it up with electrical contact cleaner so it seems to be good to go.
Thanks everyone for your advice and comments. It all helped ( if nothing else kept me looking )!