Craftsman DGS 6500 - clicks but won't start

mmoffitt

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NOT beating you up (my disclaimer)...This is one of the most amazing forums out here and I have learned so much from people who are true professionals and some darn good people who do this for fun.

First thing I learned as Joe Friday would say "just the facts Ma'am" (he/she/it/them/this/that/others we have to cover everyone with that said, did we miss anybody?)

Make/model/serial/number a picture of ID plates something legit...THINK about what is happening! if you have no Idea then ask/explain it to one of these "Good People" here, in a "Short and Simple manner".....Wait for an answer....go from there...Have a refreshment?

KEEP your Money in your Pockets....do not buy parts for the sake of buying parts and then better yet removing good parts and replacing with parts you never needed in the first place?

Don't get frazzled if someone makes a lil' fun with you at your expense, pokes you,rubs you the wrong way or muss's with you! Everyone is here to help one another! Be safe and be well! and thank you!
 

Trob

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Remove the kill switch on the coil, see. If it will start. If so, there is a safety switch keeping it from starting
 

Boomer49

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Did you test your battery? How old is the battery? If you have something like a "Battery & Bulbs + store" Or even a decent repair shop you can trust, take the battery in and get it tested. If any of your answers start with, "But I" a test is necessary. Many batteries are good for about a year unless you have a battery tender or similar. It's the only thing I don't see mentioned here and it's an obvious point of failure.
 

jviews12

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did you try a battery jumper pack to rule out old low amperage battery.

Did you bypass old cables and go directly to engine for ground, and starter for positive connection?

I have always owned a battery tester to verify amperage for "other peoples good batteries".
 

gregjo1948

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I have a Craftsman DGS 6500 riding mower. I was mowing along just fine when it suddenly stopped. It clicks when I turn the key but won't start. It won't even turn the engine. I did a quick test bypassing the starter solenoid by touching the 2 posts on the starter solenoid and it turned the engine so I know the starter is good. The starter itself is fairly new. I replaced it about 2 months ago.

So, I replaced the starter solenoid today and still, it just clicks and won't turn the motor. I went ahead and also replaced the ignition switch. The same result. Can a bad PTO switch cause the mower not to start? That's the only thing I haven't replaced. I really don't want to take this to a repair shop. It seems like something I can easily fix. I just don't know what else I can try.

Your input is greatly appreciated. Where is the click coming from? It might be a faulty battery connection. Turn the key to the start position and hold it there to see if there's any spark or smoke.
 

DinosaurMike

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Crap parts from China is a curse for antique cars. It is hard to find electrical parts worth anything. Brake wheel cylinders can come with holes drilled wrong so that brake fluid cannot get to the output. And on and on. If you have the choice of China or somewhere else, choose somewhere else. Unless you trust the supplier and they swear by the parts.
 

rhkraft

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I wrote a reply. Why isn't it shown???
 

rhkraft

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In my 70+ years of driving and repairing I've seen this many times. The battery posts are corroded. The voltage gets to the solenoid, but not the amps, i.e. the solenoid closes and clicks, but the starter doesn't turn. To understand electricity, think of it in terms of water. Voltage is the pressure, but the amps constitute the volume. Concerning batteries, if you are a pilot or know someone who owns a single engine airplane, used 12 volt aircraft batteries removed from service will power most lawn mowers and they are the same size. A 220 cranking amp aircraft battery will crank a 180 HP aircraft engine and when it gets too weak for that, there is plenty left for your 20 - 25 HP lawn mower engine. Aircraft batteries are much higher quality with better plates. They cost $350-$400 new, but when removed there is no trade-in value and airport mechanics just have to get rid of them. I had a Cessna 172 for 35 years kept my lawn mowers going with used aircraft batteries. Give it a try. Your local airport mechanic may give them to your.
 

jviews12

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Did you test your battery? How old is the battery? If you have something like a "Battery & Bulbs + store" Or even a decent repair shop you can trust, take the battery in and get it tested. If any of your answers start with, "But I" a test is necessary. Many batteries are good for about a year unless you have a battery tender or similar. It's the only thing I don't see mentioned here and it's an obvious point of failure.
TRUE. I have a battery tester 15-20$) and used it for cars , tractors, and everything else. rules out issues quickly. A battery can have 13 volts but unable to crank out 300 amps for a lawnmower. So, own a tester, cheap and small.
 
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