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Craftsman DGS 6500 - clicks but won't start

#1

J

JP98

I have a Craftsman DGS 6500 riding mower. I was mowing along just fine when it suddenly stopped. It clicks when I turn the key but won't start. It won't even turn the engine. I did a quick test bypassing the starter solenoid by touching the 2 posts on the starter solenoid and it turned the engine so I know the starter is good. The starter itself is fairly new. I replaced it about 2 months ago.

So, I replaced the starter solenoid today and still, it just clicks and won't turn the motor. I went ahead and also replaced the ignition switch. The same result. Can a bad PTO switch cause the mower not to start? That's the only thing I haven't replaced. I really don't want to take this to a repair shop. It seems like something I can easily fix. I just don't know what else I can try.

Your input is greatly appreciated.


#2

B

Bertrrr

Not the PTO, look at all your connections , check for corrosion and clean up everything,


#3

J

JP98

Bertrrr said:
Not the PTO, look at all your connections , check for corrosion and clean up everything,
Click to expand...
Thanks Bert. Yes, double checked all the connections. All good. No loose wires, no corrosion. It's all super clean.


#4

H

hlw49

Is the clicking coming from the solenoid. A pto switch can cause a no start but if the solenoid is clicking it is not the problem.


#5

J

JP98

hlw49 said:
Is the clicking coming from the solenoid. A pto switch can cause a no start but if the solenoid is clicking it is not the problem.
Click to expand...
I'll have to put my ear close to the solenoid to confirm if it's coming from there or not. I was thinking it's coming from the starter but I'll confirm when I get home this evening.

I ordered a PTO switch and should arrive tomorrow. I'll try that too.


#6

StarTech

StarTech

Throwing parts at the problem can get expensive.

Since this die during mowing I would checking the battery voltage. might a case where the electric clutch drained the battery during the mowing dropping out the fuel solenoid.. May not have enough voltage to fully pull in the starter solenoid contacts.

Starting the ignition switch test for voltage at the "S" terminal with switch held in the start position. Next test the PTO switch for both in and out voltage. Then next check at the clutch/brake switch for both in and out with the pedal fully depressed. And finally check at the trigger terminal of the starter solenoid.

Now of course you need a helper to do this tests.

On a side note those Delphi terminals can look good and still not be making good contact due broken hinge spring contact.

1719244672606.png


#7

kbowley

kbowley

Hi. First off, stop throwing money away replacing perfectly good parts. Next step: apply parking brake and put a voltmeter on the connection to the starter terminal and turn the key to the start position. What is the voltage reading? Given that your solenoid is engaging to send power to the starter, there are no issues with any of the parts you have replaced. Your safety switches, ignition switch, PTO switch are all working as they should. The issue is either low voltage going to the starter or a bad starter. You must have a voltmeter to diagnose the issue(s). The most puzzling issue here is why did the engine suddenly stop running? There is a fuel shutoff solenoid on the carburetor, listen closely while turning the key from the off to on position repeatedly and listen for a clicking at the said solenoid. does it click?


#8

B

Bertrrr

There are 2 clicking noises you should notice, one--------in the on position ,,,,you should notice a click at the carburator fuel shut off solenoid ,,,,,,,,,,2 weather or not your machine is running you should hear a click at the PTO when you engage that switch,,,,,,,,,, 3 --- when you hit the Start position on your key switch --- if you hear a click here and the starter does not engage the solenoid may be the issue .......spit balling here


#9

kbowley

kbowley

Bertrrr said:
There are 2 clicking noises you should notice, one--------in the on position ,,,,you should notice a click at the carburator fuel shut off solenoid ,,,,,,,,,,2 weather or not your machine is running you should hear a click at the PTO when you engage that switch,,,,,,,,,, 3 --- when you hit the Start position on your key switch --- if you hear a click here and the starter does not engage the solenoid may be the issue .......spit balling here
Click to expand...
You will need to be sitting on the seat for the PTO to engage...just an FYI.


#10

J

JP98

Bertrrr said:
There are 2 clicking noises you should notice, one--------in the on position ,,,,you should notice a click at the carburator fuel shut off solenoid ,,,,,,,,,,2 weather or not your machine is running you should hear a click at the PTO when you engage that switch,,,,,,,,,, 3 --- when you hit the Start position on your key switch --- if you hear a click here and the starter does not engage the solenoid may be the issue .......spit balling here
Click to expand...

You're right on the money. All of the above is exactly what happens. The starter solenoid is brand new. Now I'm wondering if they sent me a bad one. I didn't try to bypass it because I assumed it's good. I'll try that tonight. In the meanwhile, I'm going to order a replacement for it in case it's bad.

Yeah, I tend to throw parts at it to find the fix. I have Amazon Prime. One of the perks is I can return anything I buy, no questions asked. They get enough business from me and my wife that I don't feel bad taking advantage of this perk. That's why I pay that Prime membership.


#11

J

JP98

kbowley said:
Hi. First off, stop throwing money away replacing perfectly good parts. Next step: apply parking brake and put a voltmeter on the connection to the starter terminal and turn the key to the start position. What is the voltage reading? Given that your solenoid is engaging to send power to the starter, there are no issues with any of the parts you have replaced. Your safety switches, ignition switch, PTO switch are all working as they should. The issue is either low voltage going to the starter or a bad starter. You must have a voltmeter to diagnose the issue(s). The most puzzling issue here is why did the engine suddenly stop running? There is a fuel shutoff solenoid on the carburetor, listen closely while turning the key from the off to on position repeatedly and listen for a clicking at the said solenoid. does it click?
Click to expand...

Yes, the solenoid clicks. I can feel it engage when I put my hand on it. The mower starts when I jump/bypass the solenoid.

The most puzzling issue here is why did the engine suddenly stop running?
Click to expand...
Same question I have. It's like I got off the seat while it was running. Could the seat safety switch be bad? How can I test it or bypass it?


#12

J

JP98

StarTech said:
Throwing parts at the problem can get expensive.

Since this die during mowing I would checking the battery voltage. might a case where the electric clutch drained the battery during the mowing dropping out the fuel solenoid.. May not have enough voltage to fully pull in the starter solenoid contacts.

Starting the ignition switch test for voltage at the "S" terminal with switch held in the start position. Next test the PTO switch for both in and out voltage. Then next check at the clutch/brake switch for both in and out with the pedal fully depressed. And finally check at the trigger terminal of the starter solenoid.

Now of course you need a helper to do this tests.

On a side note those Delphi terminals can look good and still not be making good contact due broken hinge spring contact.

View attachment 69050
Click to expand...


This is great stuff!! Thank you!!


#13

B

Bertrrr

There are 2 large terminals on the Solenoid , jumping across those will send 12 volts directly to the starter and it should spin,,,,,,,this only tells you the starter is good ,,,,,by jumping 12 volts to the small contact on the solenoid should make it engage and spin also ......if it does spin at this point you have a good solenoid and it's not getting the signal from the key switch.


#14

J

JP98

Bertrrr said:
There are 2 large terminals on the Solenoid , jumping across those will send 12 volts directly to the starter and it should spin,,,,,,,this only tells you the starter is good ,,,,,by jumping 12 volts to the small contact on the solenoid should make it engage and spin also ......if it does spin at this point you have a good solenoid and it's not getting the signal from the key switch.
Click to expand...

There are 2 small contact connections on the solenoid. Which one should I jump or does it matter? Will I screw up the solenoid if I jump the wrong contact?


#15

B

Bertrrr

One is probably the ground, the other one is wired into the key switch - use a test light on the plus side of the battery and see which one makes the light come on, that will be the ground , now put 12 volts on the other smaller one , this will bypass all the safeties,,,,,ignition switch etc and make the solenoid respond if it's a good one, if it does not ,,,,,it's bad.


#16

J

JP98

Bertrrr said:
One is probably the ground, the other one is wired into the key switch - use a test light on the plus side of the battery and see which one makes the light come on, that will be the ground , now put 12 volts on the other smaller one , this will bypass all the safeties,,,,,ignition switch etc and make the solenoid respond if it's a good one, if it does not ,,,,,it's bad.
Click to expand...
Will do! Thanks.
=================================================================
Update: I did exactly what you suggested. Solenoid is good. In fact, before I even did this test, I put the ignition switch on while my hand was on the solenoid and felt it engage. It's definitely not the ignition switch. As I mentioned in my original post, I had replaced it a couple of months ago. Just for kicks, I took the ignition switch from my Poulan Pro mower and swapped it with this one. My Poulan mower started, no issues. Crafstman mower, still nothing.

So, solenoid is good, starter is good. Can I assume the foot brake switch is good switch since I set it before I turn the ignition on and I hear the clicks. If I don't set it, no clicks. What do you suggest is my next step? Thanks.

Attachments





#17

R

RevB

JP98 said:
You're right on the money. All of the above is exactly what happens. The starter solenoid is brand new. Now I'm wondering if they sent me a bad one. I didn't try to bypass it because I assumed it's good. I'll try that tonight. In the meanwhile, I'm going to order a replacement for it in case it's bad.

Yeah, I tend to throw parts at it to find the fix. I have Amazon Prime. One of the perks is I can return anything I buy, no questions asked. They get enough business from me and my wife that I don't feel bad taking advantage of this perk. That's why I pay that Prime membership.
Click to expand...
Get a Volt/Ohm meter.....all of $10 on Amazon.


#18

R

rhkraft

When you checked for corrosion were you looking at the solenoid connections or the battery posts. This sounds like corrosion on the battery posts. Remove the battery cables and clean away all corrosion. Use baking soda in water (tablespoon in a half cup and dissolve) to immerse the battery cable ends. You can pour a little on the battery posts, let it boil, then flush with clean water. Do it over and over until the post is clear of corrosion. Be careful not to let any of the baking soda water to enter the battery. Keep the cell caps on and tight. When the corrosion is gone use a wire brush to polish the metal clean and shiny. That usually solves solenoid clicking. This is not a voltage issue, it is corrosion reducing amperage at the starter. It works on your car too.


#19

J

JP98

FIXED!!

It was yet another bad starter solenoid! 2 brand new solenoids from the same seller and both were bad. Damn these cheap Chinese crap. To be fair, I guess they're all from China. Quality control is non-existent. I gave the seller a bad rating for causing me this much headache and lost of time.

I bought another one from a different seller, installed it and started right off the bat. Thanks everyone for your input.


#20

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

JP98 said:
FIXED!!

It was yet another bad starter solenoid! 2 brand solenoids from the same seller and both were bad. Damn these cheap Chinese crap. To be fair, I guess they're all from China. Quality control is non-existent. I gave the seller a bad rating for causing me this much headache and lost of time.

I bought another one from a different seller, installed it and started right off the bat. Thanks everyone for your input.
Click to expand...
Had a case of Briggs OEM solenoids a few years back that would start the engine exactly 3 times before burning out the engagement coil and not longer engage to start the engine.


#21

M

mmoffitt

NOT beating you up (my disclaimer)...This is one of the most amazing forums out here and I have learned so much from people who are true professionals and some darn good people who do this for fun.

First thing I learned as Joe Friday would say "just the facts Ma'am" (he/she/it/them/this/that/others we have to cover everyone with that said, did we miss anybody?)

Make/model/serial/number a picture of ID plates something legit...THINK about what is happening! if you have no Idea then ask/explain it to one of these "Good People" here, in a "Short and Simple manner".....Wait for an answer....go from there...Have a refreshment?

KEEP your Money in your Pockets....do not buy parts for the sake of buying parts and then better yet removing good parts and replacing with parts you never needed in the first place?

Don't get frazzled if someone makes a lil' fun with you at your expense, pokes you,rubs you the wrong way or muss's with you! Everyone is here to help one another! Be safe and be well! and thank you!


#22

T

Trob

Remove the kill switch on the coil, see. If it will start. If so, there is a safety switch keeping it from starting


#23

B

Boomer49

Did you test your battery? How old is the battery? If you have something like a "Battery & Bulbs + store" Or even a decent repair shop you can trust, take the battery in and get it tested. If any of your answers start with, "But I" a test is necessary. Many batteries are good for about a year unless you have a battery tender or similar. It's the only thing I don't see mentioned here and it's an obvious point of failure.


#24

J

jviews12

did you try a battery jumper pack to rule out old low amperage battery.

Did you bypass old cables and go directly to engine for ground, and starter for positive connection?

I have always owned a battery tester to verify amperage for "other peoples good batteries".


#25

G

gregjo1948

JP98 said:
I have a Craftsman DGS 6500 riding mower. I was mowing along just fine when it suddenly stopped. It clicks when I turn the key but won't start. It won't even turn the engine. I did a quick test bypassing the starter solenoid by touching the 2 posts on the starter solenoid and it turned the engine so I know the starter is good. The starter itself is fairly new. I replaced it about 2 months ago.

So, I replaced the starter solenoid today and still, it just clicks and won't turn the motor. I went ahead and also replaced the ignition switch. The same result. Can a bad PTO switch cause the mower not to start? That's the only thing I haven't replaced. I really don't want to take this to a repair shop. It seems like something I can easily fix. I just don't know what else I can try.

Your input is greatly appreciated. Where is the click coming from? It might be a faulty battery connection. Turn the key to the start position and hold it there to see if there's any spark or smoke.
Click to expand...


#26

D

DinosaurMike

Crap parts from China is a curse for antique cars. It is hard to find electrical parts worth anything. Brake wheel cylinders can come with holes drilled wrong so that brake fluid cannot get to the output. And on and on. If you have the choice of China or somewhere else, choose somewhere else. Unless you trust the supplier and they swear by the parts.


#27

R

rhkraft

I wrote a reply. Why isn't it shown???


#28

R

rhkraft

In my 70+ years of driving and repairing I've seen this many times. The battery posts are corroded. The voltage gets to the solenoid, but not the amps, i.e. the solenoid closes and clicks, but the starter doesn't turn. To understand electricity, think of it in terms of water. Voltage is the pressure, but the amps constitute the volume. Concerning batteries, if you are a pilot or know someone who owns a single engine airplane, used 12 volt aircraft batteries removed from service will power most lawn mowers and they are the same size. A 220 cranking amp aircraft battery will crank a 180 HP aircraft engine and when it gets too weak for that, there is plenty left for your 20 - 25 HP lawn mower engine. Aircraft batteries are much higher quality with better plates. They cost $350-$400 new, but when removed there is no trade-in value and airport mechanics just have to get rid of them. I had a Cessna 172 for 35 years kept my lawn mowers going with used aircraft batteries. Give it a try. Your local airport mechanic may give them to your.


#29

J

jviews12

Boomer49 said:
Did you test your battery? How old is the battery? If you have something like a "Battery & Bulbs + store" Or even a decent repair shop you can trust, take the battery in and get it tested. If any of your answers start with, "But I" a test is necessary. Many batteries are good for about a year unless you have a battery tender or similar. It's the only thing I don't see mentioned here and it's an obvious point of failure.
Click to expand...
TRUE. I have a battery tester 15-20$) and used it for cars , tractors, and everything else. rules out issues quickly. A battery can have 13 volts but unable to crank out 300 amps for a lawnmower. So, own a tester, cheap and small.


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