Carb for a 2008 Scag Turf Tiger 27Hp Kawasaki

[davelakeside1]

I have a quick update on my info. I found the model and serial number label on the mower.
I did verify that the mower model number is correct as originally listed and my serial number
is as listed below. rather than a serial number range, which was all I could find initially.
May not change anything but at least it is exactly what I have.

Scag Model No: STT 61A 27KA
Serial No: 7742143
The engine number didn't change it is FD750D - ???? With the missing last 4 numbers
which are so very important to identify the carb and other parts.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I'll take it off and see. I did look for numbers when I had it off but they didn't make any sense to me, but as you say it takes the whole combination of names and numbers to identify the carb. So if I get all this info together will it get me to the correct carb that I need?

We are going round & round in circles
What is a "correct carb"
A carb is a carb is a carb is a carb is a carb is a carb is a carb is a carb .
There is very little about any of them that is unique .
Gravity feed carbs often have a different float needle to pump feed carbs and after that the only real difference is the length of the arm on the throttle & choke levers
And you compensate for that by moving the throttle rod on the governor arm or bending up new throttle rods
There is no magic about it
Apart from that might be the position of the mounting holes for the carb & / or the air filter should it bolt directly to the carb.
It is not rocket science these are mower engines lazily running at very low speeds with very crude carbs
I had a quick look from AS00 through to MS08 and the main difference I could see was all of the jets got smaller .
There were a couple that did not have fuel solenoids but all of the choke butterflys were the same #16186-2036
To me that says they interchange from 15003-2781 ( one of 3 fitted to the AS00 variant ) which all subed to 15003-2989 through to 15004-1045 fitted to the MS08 variant.
Most of the floats looked like the same ( did not check all 51 variants ) .
Early carbs had replaceable throttle butterflys, on latter models they were not replaceable
Idle jets are all over the place, come were bigger & some were smaller but for my money any one of them would fit & work well enough for a mower .

jacks show 51 variants of the FD750D Engine
It is your mower, not mine so you can check them all for the same float & needle and same carb to engine gaskets
If they are the same they will swap over and the worstcase is you might need to swap out your jets but IMHO the bigger jets run a lot better .

 

[davelakeside1]

I've been thinking along these same lines. As long as it fits and everything hooks up the same like linkage, fuel inlet, and air filter, I should be good to go for at least a trial run. If it starts and runs and performs as well as the old carb I should be fine. Then put in new plugs and watch them closely for running too lean.
Running rich is far less of a problem as that will not burn a piston. Either way, a simple jet change would fix that right up.
Thanks for the reply. Got some homework to do!

 

[sgkent]

I looked at Scag manuals all the way from 2006 to 2009. Your combination of model and serial does not come up in their old website. The closest is what I caught a screen shot of. That manual shows a date of 2008. Go find your owners manual. See what it shows. There should be a spec page in it that shows HP and the full engine number is on in that area. A "Range" is the range of serial numbers covered. The manufacturer does not print a new manual for each serial number. The manual covers beginning serial number of whatever, and an ending serial number of whatever.

The 2006 model manual shows for the Velocity deck STT61V-27KA 27HP (Kawasaki Spec. #FD750D-AS04).

The 2007 model manual shows for the Velocity deck STT61V-27KA 27HP (Kawasaki Spec. #FD750D-AS04). (It uses the same manual as July 2006)

The 2008 model manual shows for the Velocity deck Scag Model STT61V-27KA 27HP (Kawasaki Spec. #FD750D-CS08). The serial number range covers yours but it has a D in front of it.

MY GUESS is that it reads like this STT (Scags Turf Tiger), 61V (61" Velocity deck), 27KA (27 HP Kawasaki engine). If so yours reads like Scags Turf Tiger 61" Advantage deck 27 HP Kawasaki engine.

You may just have to order one at your dealer and compare what comes in to yours. It is 15 years old and it has had a lot of commercial use on it so someday the engine will wear out anyway.

 

[StarTech]

Okay I did some digging in the SST61V manual I that have that covers that serial number. And that mower is not a 2008 model but is from around 2001-2002. Unless it does have a prefix letter.


FD750D-AS04
Carburetor 15003-2849 superseded to 15004-1047

 

[sgkent]

I also looked at the parts blow up (carbs) on a couple of the 27KA engines used on the 61" Velocity deck in 2006, 2007 and 2008. Each one lists a plethora of jet sizes and throttle valve assemblies - which means that any carb you buy as a replacement will likely be tuned in a generic way. Even if you match one to yours, you will likely have to customize the jetting on it if you want it to be the same as what you have. You never did say what was wrong with yours.

 

[sgkent]

one thing crossed my mind. Most business people keep a file folder on the big items they buy. Have you looked at the purchase receipt for the date, model, serial etc., on that receipt - supporting documents. I have a plastic card like a credit card for example from Toro that they sent to me after I bought one of their mowers. It has warranty information on it including purchase date, model, serial etc., as it exists in their system. It came with a complete owner's manual that also lists parts. Good Luck. Sounds like it is in your ball court now.

 

[davelakeside1]

The plot begins to thicken!

My Mower is a:
Scag Model No: STT 61A 27KA (The 61A is the deck size 61" and the A is for the Advantage Deck - I do not have the "V" Velocity Deck)
Serial No: 7742143 (Which falls into the serial number range given)
The engine number didn't change it is FD750D - ???? With the missing last 4 numbers
The main reason for the new carb vs a rebuild kit is that the throttle shafts and bore holes in the carb are all warn and leaking air.
The rest of the problems could be taken care of with a rebuild kit.
I bought the mower from a guy that was the second owner of the machine and all I got was a bill of sale. His business was folding up
so was selling everything off. The mower ran good then and has for the last 2 years but at the end of last season and into this season
the carb has been really giving me problems. I was hoping that it would last out this season as I was planning on pulling it apart over
this coming winter.
As far as customizing it, I agree. I thought of running it with some new plugs and see how it went and if it did go well I would watch the plugs
for any signs of overheating. But thinking about that, and seeing some other guys posts, It would be best to get the numbers off of the jets
from the old carb and see what the new carb has for sizes. back when I got the mower it ran well and and never had a problem going up
a lot of hills that I do so If I can match the new carb up to the old carb I think that would be fine, especially doing it once rather than twice.

 

[sgkent]

so are you saying it is a 2001 or 2002 model and not 2008 as you originally posted?

Jacks shows the carb listed above for $447 or a whole new engine for $2600. You said you needed it right away. Otherwise there are specialty shops that rebush worn out throttles. I have had it done many times to carbs that were good in all other aspects.

 

[StarTech]

The main reason for the new carb vs a rebuild kit is that the throttle shafts and bore holes in the carb are all warn and leaking air.

If the throttle and/or choke shafts holes are the problem then it can be repaired with new shafts and custom bushings especially since the carb lists for $407. I have repair several these carburetor bodies by installing bushings. And last was the worst one where I had to use schedule 80 1/8" brass pipe to make the bushings.