Can't find 30W oil anywhere in my area, or on line.

[TobyU]

I use SuperTech full syn in my truck 330,000 miles. Also in my standby generator which has been in service for 9 years now. Guess what? They're both running fine, and I don't go to confession on Saturday. Just change it when you're supposed to. Everything else I have runs on 2 cycle fuel

And Steve down the road used 10w40 Valvoline in his with the same results. Phil around the corner use that no name stuff that Speedway gas station sells and the black bottles with the big colored label and his didn't blow up either.

I am seriously going to take one of these little lawn mower engines and poor Wesson oil in it and videotape it and run it etc and prove that you won't notice any difference and you won't have any reduced lifespan as long as the dam engine is lubricated.
With these new Briggs and strattons and their plastic camshafts, like it's really going to matter..
I will say though I pulled one apart the other day and it did have a slightly improved and redesigned camshaft so you know they might actually be trying a little bit.
I have a very bad track record at not putting any effort into fixing problems

This article my help dispel some motor oil myths/confusion. 0W30, 5W30,10W30 and straight 30W are all 30W when they reach 100*C operating temp. Multi weight oils have superior lubrication/flow characteristics compared to single weight motor oils when the motor oil temp is less than 100C.

Motor Oil

Trying to understand motor oil

www.positivespin.us

Despite what ANY OR ALL of that says...0w30 WILL NOT protect as well or stay in the case as long in a push mower engine as SAE 30.
We don't need any "superior flow characteristics" since when it's over 60 out and a dip/splash setup with no pumping etc.
It will thin out as the viscosity improvers get worn out since most don't change the oil that often or at all..

 

[bertsmobile1]

Actually not a useless thread
When ever you get a LOT of people posting in a civil manner it is a good thing for humanity .

 

[bertsmobile1]

While "oil aint oils Sol" any oil is better than no oil
Some will work better & provide better protection under SPECIFIC conditions in SPECIFIC engines than others
Mower oil funny enough works best in mowers because the additive package blended into the base oil is tailored specifically for mowers
Car oil will work just fine, within limits as will truck oil even hydraulic oil or cooking oil
I ran castor oil in my racing motorcycle for decades
In regions where green galoots prevail down here and we mow all year round running 2 strokes on vegetable oil is quite common on the misguided belief that cooking oil is less polluting than mineral oil ( most earth saving greenies have no idea of basic chemistry ) and this works there but would not work down south as it would gum up the rings over the winter non mowing season.
Similar stories with chain bar oil.
Vegetable oil works really well in your bar just so long as you use your saw at least monthly otherwise it gums up the pump.
I run corn headder oil in the fuel in some of my vintage motorcycles and two stroke in others .
Oil performance is also climate specific
What works best in very wet regions along the coast might very well not work well in dry inland regions
Same story for regions with high humidity and overnight temperature well below dew point as compared to regions with low humidity .
So the "I have used XYZ for POQ number of years" testimonials are somewhat meaningless for any one other than you neighbours .
Mowers in particular are very low stress engines when compared to truck & car engines but of course suffer a higher heat range because they are air cooled so the operating temperatures can be all over the place as agains water cooled engines where they are at a very consistent 80 C to 120 C .
Then there are things like cam followers
Try to compress your car / truck valve springs the do the same to your mower engine
You will see that mowers use very soft springs thus the scuffing wear between the cam & the followers is a lot less on mowers so all the arguements about the need for extra ZZDP in mowers is again meaningless
The main reason why cars have gone to very low viscosity base oils ( 0w-anything ) is because of very tight emission restrictions requiring each cylinder to fire within 4 engine revolutions to prevent unburned fuel being sent out the exhaust into the atmosphere ( same reason for the carb solenoid on mowers ).
Because of this car engines need the lowest possible internal drag on the engine when cold, thus the 0 base oil
On top of that low viscosity crudes are a lot cheaper .

OTOH is is always interesting to find out what people actually do with their mowers & cars

 

[shurguywutt]

My oil is still better than your oil.
It's even better than @Hammermechanicman 's oil.

Can't be, I use whale oil imported from Alaska. You can't get it in the store. You have to order it by ship piloted by Eskimos.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Back in the 90's when the Arthritis Foundation was holding Mini Grand Prix charity go cart races we would run castor based oil in the crankcase and put a little bit in the fuel. The smell is very distinctive. It would freak the other teams out making them think we were using some super fuel. We did it just to mess with their heads.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Amsoil makes a 5W-30 and 10W-30 small engine oil specifically designed for small 4-stroke power equipment including mowers. This is what the spec says for both:

Use 5W-30 Synthetic Small-Engine Oil in small engines found in (not limited to) snowblowers, generators, power washers and other equipment that requires SAE 30 or 5W-30 motor oil, including those made by Briggs & Stratton,* Honda,* Kohler,* Champion,* Generac,* Toro,* Ariens,* Troy Bilt,* John Deere,* MTD* and Husqvarna.

Use 10W-30 Synthetic Small-Engine Oil in small engines found in (not limited to) mowers (zero-turn, riding, stand-on, push), generators, power washers and other equipment that requires SAE 30 or 10W-30 motor oil, including those made by Briggs & Stratton, Honda, Kubota,* Kawasaki,* Kohler, Tecumseh,* Robin,* Onan,* Wisconsin,* Powertrain,* Yanmar,* Linamar* and Vanguard.*

So I just want to say that you should NOT be using a car oil for your mower. Two reasons.
1. Automobile engines are water-cooled. Mowers are air-cooled and get a lot hotter. The addidtives in small engine oils are designed to counter these high temps.
2. Car oils have no zinc because zinc will contaminate the catalytic converter. But, you need the protection of zinc in a small engine due to the higher compression (serves as a cushion against metal-to-metal wear).
I do not care if you use Amsoil or not - there are other small engine oils out there, but be smart about what you put in your $20,000 machine!

Small engines are typically around 8.5 to 1 on compression (low compression compared to cars). Most important thing is change oil consistently (50 hours) and try to use the same brand if possible.

 

[UTBMXCruiser]

Non detergent oil is ok for my older Gravely mowers but please use high detergent oil in more modern engines.

Did you read my post? Specifically the last sentence? Sump temp heat breakdown. A mower engine with a slinger and no oil pump doesn't care. Run the full synthetic 15W50 in everything. Old or new.

 

[smallenginerepairs]

I'm looking for Castrol 30W oil and cannot find it anywhere, on-line or locally. I've checked AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly, Walmart, Lowe's and Home Depot. So I decided to try for other brands, brands I recognize, not this cheap unknown stuff. The only straight 30W I can find is Super Tech but I have seen the independent wear test run on it and is ABSOLUTELY NOT as good as the nationally-recognized name brands.

I've been using Farm and Fleet brand 30w oil for the last 20 years and have had no issues with it. I use it in my mowers and customers mowers also and it gives good protection against wear.

 

[lbrac]

While "oil aint oils Sol" any oil is better than no oil
Some will work better & provide better protection under SPECIFIC conditions in SPECIFIC engines than others
Mower oil funny enough works best in mowers because the additive package blended into the base oil is tailored specifically for mowers
Car oil will work just fine, within limits as will truck oil even hydraulic oil or cooking oil
I ran castor oil in my racing motorcycle for decades
In regions where green galoots prevail down here and we mow all year round running 2 strokes on vegetable oil is quite common on the misguided belief that cooking oil is less polluting than mineral oil ( most earth saving greenies have no idea of basic chemistry ) and this works there but would not work down south as it would gum up the rings over the winter non mowing season.
Similar stories with chain bar oil.
Vegetable oil works really well in your bar just so long as you use your saw at least monthly otherwise it gums up the pump.
I run corn headder oil in the fuel in some of my vintage motorcycles and two stroke in others .
Oil performance is also climate specific
What works best in very wet regions along the coast might very well not work well in dry inland regions
Same story for regions with high humidity and overnight temperature well below dew point as compared to regions with low humidity .
So the "I have used XYZ for POQ number of years" testimonials are somewhat meaningless for any one other than you neighbours .
Mowers in particular are very low stress engines when compared to truck & car engines but of course suffer a higher heat range because they are air cooled so the operating temperatures can be all over the place as agains water cooled engines where they are at a very consistent 80 C to 120 C .
Then there are things like cam followers
Try to compress your car / truck valve springs the do the same to your mower engine
You will see that mowers use very soft springs thus the scuffing wear between the cam & the followers is a lot less on mowers so all the arguements about the need for extra ZZDP in mowers is again meaningless
The main reason why cars have gone to very low viscosity base oils ( 0w-anything ) is because of very tight emission restrictions requiring each cylinder to fire within 4 engine revolutions to prevent unburned fuel being sent out the exhaust into the atmosphere ( same reason for the carb solenoid on mowers ).
Because of this car engines need the lowest possible internal drag on the engine when cold, thus the 0 base oil
On top of that low viscosity crudes are a lot cheaper .

OTOH is is always interesting to find out what people actually do with their mowers & cars

My understanding is that clearances between mating parts are much tighter in current automotive engines, compared to what was normal in the past. This requires a lower viscosity oil to get between mating parts, which also reduces friction and improves fuel consumption. Tighter piston to cylinder clearance allows less rocking motion of the pistons, especially when cold, and allows more consistent ring contact with the cylinder walls to reduce blow-by into the crankcase. When I was in high school, I worked at a full service gas station part-time. There was a regular customer that had a 1966 or 1967 model Chevelle with a 325 hp 396 cu. in. engine who would change his oil only when the hydraulic valve lifters started clattering. We would change the oil and filter and, by the time he left, the lifters were quiet as new. This was a regular occurrence, and when he stopped for gas it would still be quiet for a good while, then it would start clattering again. Apparently, the viscosity modifiers in the multi-weight oil would break down, and the oil would stay at its lowest rated viscosity when the engine heated up to normal running temperature, which was too thin to keep the lifters pumped up. This is an extreme example because most people change their oil often enough that it doesn't reach the point that the oil viscosity fails to increase at higher temperature. But it does show that it is important to change multi-weight oil at least occasionally for this reason, and because other additives like detergents, acid neutralizers, anti-foamers, etc., even in straight weight oil, get depleted over time with use.

 

[djb383]

And Steve down the road used 10w40 Valvoline in his with the same results. Phil around the corner use that no name stuff that Speedway gas station sells and the black bottles with the big colored label and his didn't blow up either.

I am seriously going to take one of these little lawn mower engines and poor Wesson oil in it and videotape it and run it etc and prove that you won't notice any difference and you won't have any reduced lifespan as long as the dam engine is lubricated.
With these new Briggs and strattons and their plastic camshafts, like it's really going to matter..
I will say though I pulled one apart the other day and it did have a slightly improved and redesigned camshaft so you know they might actually be trying a little bit.
I have a very bad track record at not putting any effort into fixing problems

Despite what ANY OR ALL of that says...0w30 WILL NOT protect as well or stay in the case as long in a push mower engine as SAE 30.
We don't need any "superior flow characteristics" since when it's over 60 out and a dip/splash setup with no pumping etc.
It will thin out as the viscosity improvers get worn out since most don't change the oil that often or at all..

Dr. Haas, who wrote the article, just might know what he’s talking about since he is an expert in lubricity and fluid flow characteristics thru years of lab experimentation, testing and fact finding. Splash is just a different way to move oil from the sump (point A) to moving parts (point B), no? Can hardly wait to see articles debunking Dr. Haas’ article.