Can't figure out missfire

tkos115

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Slowly putting the choke on seems to make it worse or doesn't really correct it. It will just start to bog down more. It kind of fixes the popping and hunting, but the engine is at the point of running so rich it slows down in rpm and will smoke. So I think it's too rich personally. Spark looks good with a tester, it's bluish white and jumps a large gap on the tester with no issues.
 
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tkos115

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As far as I can tell the flywheel key looks good.
 

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tkos115

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So.. I was playing around with the carbs and I disconnected the linkage that connects the two together. This allowed the throttle shafts to be independent from each other. When I did that at idle it didn't seem to surge or pop if I kept them both at idle speeds. Basically what I did was allow the main carb to be controlled by the governor and throttle cable, and I held the other one at idle. The engine didn't seem to pop or surge at all. I didn't get a chance to run it long or at higher speeds since it was getting late and I didn't want to annoy the neighbors this late. Is it possable that somehow the carbs aren't synchronized correctly causing the other issues? I don't see a way to adjust anything other than idle unless the link between the carbs is bent? They seem to be at the same settings when looking at the throttle positions.
 

sgkent

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do you have a carb sync tool? Have you compared the flow on each carb?
 

tkos115

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I don't have a tool for synchronizing them. But I apprently missed a chapter in the repair book about doing it. It looks like it can be done with a feeler gauge and tweeking the rod between the two carbs. I don't have a flow tool either so I haven't been able to compare them, I actually haven't done that before to be honest.
 
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tkos115

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That's the engine flywheel and crank
 

slomo

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Why is that outer black ring loose in a couple spots? Recon the key looks good.
 

tkos115

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This is the flywheel side on top of the engine
 
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