Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over

[JimP2014]

https://www.partswarehouse.com/31P677-3373-G2-Briggs-and-Stratton-Engine-s/235041.htm

Thank you very much for your assessment. That makes a lot of sense, especially the part about. Well, if the spark is at the spark plug then you can just rest assure it has nothing to do with all that safety stuff that is key. But beyond that, what you mentioned about compression and the other stuff is what I suppose I need to look at. I can only say that maybe 10 days ago there was an awful banging going on every time there was a rotation of the flywheel and I wonder if eventually that broke something don't know. But again I appreciate your help.


Jim

The link I provided for that website that is exactly the engine. I have yet to go back outside and take a small picture of what is actually stamped on the riding mower itself. Also, I do have a smaller picture of what's on the valve cover but it's almost impossible to read and it might provide some additional info. But I've been looking over the part numbers and all that from that website and so far all of it's been spot on.


Jim

 

[JimP2014]

The other thing I'm wondering about which I might have mentioned is I removed the flywheel and I replaced the key with a brand new key. It's the exact same key because the first one that was fine. I lost some place in the yard but I just wanted to throw that in just in case, despite what I believe was the correct way to replace the flywheel key that somehow I did something to the flywheel and it has to do with some timing issue. But once I get that compression tester maybe that'll be a good indicator as to what's going on.

Jim

 

[ILENGINE]

If the flywheel was not properly torqued to spec it could of sheared the new flywheel key.

 

[JimP2014]

If the flywheel was not properly torqued to spec it could of sheared the new flywheel key.

Okay, thank you very much for that info. I think I'm going to start with your first suggestion about compression. I ordered a compression test kit and it should be available tomorrow and I suppose I could take off the flywheel today but I think I'd rather wait until the compression test is done, but as I recall I know the spec is something like 80 flip lb torque foot pounds that is.


I was more or less wondering if you could put it on correctly. It looks correct, but there's still something wrong somehow. Other than another sheered flywheel key. Actually I misspoke the first one. There was nothing wrong with it. I just lost it in the yard but I'm just wondering if it's lined up with the crankshaft and everything looks good if something still could be wrong even with the proper torque spec


Jim

 

[Mark H_NO]

Awful banging, that sounds like a clue! You said you replaced the flywheel key, so you should have timing. That leaves spark, fuel, and compression. Make sure the throttle and choke plates are open when you spray starting fluid, that got me. Can you disconnect the spark plug and spin the blade? It ought to bounce back some off the compression. That should give you a rough idea if you have compression. Is it one cylinder? You get compression every other rev for a 4 stroke single.

I'm a new guy, who has fixed stuff forever, not a professional mechanic.(not that anyone would think I was)

 

[ILENGINE]

Awful banging, that sounds like a clue! You said you replaced the flywheel key, so you should have timing. That leaves spark, fuel, and compression. Make sure the throttle and choke plates are open when you spray starting fluid, that got me. Can you disconnect the spark plug and spin the blade? It ought to bounce back some off the compression. That should give you a rough idea if you have compression. Is it one cylinder? You get compression every other rev for a 4 stroke single.

I'm a new guy, who has fixed stuff forever, not a professional mechanic.(not that anyone would think I was)

The banging could be a clue. Could be something as simple as the motor mounts bolts being loose, to total engine destruction.

 

[JimP2014]

I can't say that the motor mounts are loose but I'm not going to mess with those until I at least get basic rotation. That's what I'm thinking as far as the blade goes. I'll keep that in mind, but technically speaking, the blades should not rotate since the PTO is not engaged, but I'll reread what you wrote. Maybe you're saying something slightly different.

Thanks for this additional feedback.

Jim

 

[JimP2014]

I can't say that the motor mounts are loose but I'm not going to mess with those until I at least get basic rotation. That's what I'm thinking as far as the blade goes. I'll keep that in mind, but technically speaking, the blades should not rotate since the PTO is not engaged, but I'll reread what you wrote. Maybe you're saying something slightly different.

Thanks for this additional feedback.

Jim

But to answer your other question, it's a sing le cylinder OHV intek engine 19 and 1/2 horsepower and I think it's called the gold edition.

 

[JimP2014]

I can't say that the motor mounts are loose but I'm not going to mess with those until I at least get basic rotation. That's what I'm thinking as far as the blade goes. I'll keep that in mind, but technically speaking, the blades should not rotate since the PTO is not engaged, but I'll reread what you wrote. Maybe you're saying something slightly different.

Thanks for this additional feedback.

Jim

Mark, I also reread the part about what you're talking about the blades and that's good to know. I think I'm just going to wait for the compression tester come if that's a simple test you are suggesting and maybe later tonight when it's cooler, I'll try that.

 

[Mark H_NO]

What I said works fine for a single engine mower. With a PTO involved, you're over my head. If you're getting a compression tester, that's the best test, I'd wait on that.