Briggs and Stratton 'Hybrid' Won't Start

[SeniorCitizen]

Last weekend I disconnected the ground wire attached to the ignition armature from a clip type fitting (this fitting was beneath the carb.) that appeared loose and held the ground wire close to the cowling while pulling the cord.

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If the wire you mention is a small wire and goes up under the cowling, that's the kill wire that grounds the mag to kill the engine when you turn the key to stop. Other switches, safety switches in particular, like the pto - blade engagement, can kill the spark to the plug as well via that small wire going under the cowling.

I would suggest removing that ground wire from its terminal again and see if that allows spark at the spark plug when grounding the side of the plug on the head. If that allows spark to the plug it will probably run. To kill it touch that little ground wire back to metal.

 

[reynoldston]

After reading your last post I would say that SandburRanch have a very good post and that could well be your problim.

 

[LawnDawg43]

I thought it was just the ignition ground wire. The engine is not a key-start design but a pull start with the throttle lever located below the steering wheel.

 

[KennyV]

Even with no key ... that is the kill wire.
There is usually a place on the throttle linkage where it attaches around the carb... with the throttle pulled back to minimum, it grounds out the magneto & kills the engine... :smile:KennyV

 

[mullins87]

That little wire is absolutely your no spark problem. As Kenny said, follow it from its connection at the armature, it should go to the throttle linkage where it will ground when you pull the throttle all the way back to idle. As for that little screw you mentioned hanging straight down from the bottom of the carb, does it have a spring around it? If so it should not be screwed all the way in. In this position it should be cutting the flow of fuel from the carb into the engine. After you get your spark issue corrected, back that screw out one full turn and see what happens, it should crank. Once it cranks, you will probably need to adjust it one way or the other to get it to run smoothly.

 

[wardsmower]

If there is still no spark have someone help you. Follow the kill cable down to the engine, have someone else hold the bale handle. Grab the control arm the cable is hooked to and manualy open it up. Have a inline spark tester between the plug and the boot. While holding the control arm open have your friend pull the recoil and see if it gets spark. If so you have a streched kill cable.

 

[LawnDawg43]

Okay folks, many thanks because I am much closer. The engine cranks and runs and I have adjusted the carburetor to get a good, smooth idle. Now, however, I am battling a runaway problem. The engine idles faster and faster and the only way to shut it off is by pulling the spark plug wire. When I place the throttle control in the 'Off' position I get no response. Governor?

 

[KennyV]

You must have something off or binding At the carb linkage...
Look closely as you open and close the throttle on the carb... something is not right, the governor needs to be connected... there should be a spring that holds the throttle Open... and the governor linkage should be trying to Close the throttle... :smile:KennyV

 

[LawnDawg43]

Thanks again Kenny. I looked at it again tonight. If I follow the throttle cable it goes to a "panel" (a friend of mine referred to it as a throttle panel). The throttle cable is attached with a screw fitting and operates a slide up and down on the front of this panel. The fitting was loose and, instead of moving the slide up and down, the cable itself was moving up and down in the fitting.

I tightened that and now the slide works along with throttle commands but nothing between the panel and the carburetor moves. I can move the linkage between the panel and the carburetor and open and close the throttle that way but not with the throttle control so it sounds like your assessment is correct.

I will check that tomorrow after work and see what I can determine is going on behind that panel.

BTW, what is the correct term for that panel? Also, if anyone else has any suggestions please feel free to let me know. Thanks again to all of you.

 

[LawnDawg43]

After more trouble shooting I believe I have found the source of my problem and the maddening inconsistency with this thing. The control bracket on this engine consists of the slide design that moves up and down with "gears" on the interior of the bracket. The plastic slide is broken and was still sitting in place but not moving up and down consistently and as one unit. Therefore, it was not consistently choking the carburetor and/or fully opening the throttle.

I discovered this when the slide would no longer move upward. It moved out of position and the gears were no longer aligned, preventing me from opening the throttle. I suspect this upward movement has been inconsistent for some time and the reason my father has been unable to get the engine to perform to his satisfaction.

My father now wants this engine installed on a newer body. The old body (a Comet I'm going to rebuild and install a new engine on) has the throttle control mounted on the post facing the driver below the steering wheel. The newer body has the throttle control mounted on the left side of the body, just behind the driver.

My question is this: Will the same control bracket work with the throttle control mounted to the left of the driver?