Briggs and Stratton 5 HP Wont Start

[ProTechCharlie]

Ok, go back to the very first scene of your latest video, where the piston is at tdc and both valves are down.

With everything in that position, take your thumb and try to rotate each valve. If you can, then that is a major problem.

Also, it looked like you needed a tool to rotate the engine with the head off, is that true???? The thing should rotate like greased lightening.

Yes sir. Very much needed a screwdriver in between the fins. Is that a problem? I tightened the connecting rod bolts to right before the point where they would not move anymore. Also, there was some horizontal play in the crankshaft when I put it all back together.

As far as the valves moving, they both move, but I must apply much torque. I would say that to get the exhuast one to move, it hurt my thumb and it turned red. For the intake, I had to use the palm of my hand and after the few moves, my thumb was able to move. You say the exhaust valve doesnt look like it is closing, I will have to remove the spring and valve grind it? Then compress the spring? Can I do that with a pair of need-nose pliers, or do I need to get a tool when I get the gauges? Or, is it a possibility that the rod is bent? And how did my cylinder look? Enough to keep compression?

-Thanks, charlie.

 

[Mikel1]

I agree with Fish but I thought the intake valve wasn't fully seating. He is right you should easily be able to move the flywheel by hand. Your going to have to have a valve spring compressor to put the spring and retainer back in, do not get the ohv spring compressor for this engine.

 

[ProTechCharlie]

It sounds like your next step would be to check your valve clearances, since it sounds like you haven't. I just assumed that you had. If you don't have
the valves closing fully, your compression will just go out the open valve.

Here is the video Fish: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkgGH0IwZx4&list=UUwqNMVMMsbcApQC8puuuzEg

 

[ProTechCharlie]

I agree with Fish but I thought the intake valve wasn't fully seating. He is right you should easily be able to move the flywheel by hand. Your going to have to have a valve spring compressor to put the spring and retainer back in, do not get the ohv spring compressor for this engine.

What are some explanations for the flywheel? And would this add to the situation? Also, what do I need to go ahead and do at this point? And, I see the Autozone has a valve spring compressor. Do you think it would fit my needs? I ask because when I rented a ring compressor from them, it just so happened that I needed the special ring compressor, theirs was too big. I guess while I am there, I will go ahead and keep the compression tester until we get this sorted out, and then I will buy Valve compound, and feeler gauges, and the suction cup handle thing (I forget the name, valve seater? The technical name escapes me right now...ugh.).

-Thanks, Charlie.

 

[Fish]

I think I need to pack up my truck and come down there. I hope you are near the beach, I'll just sit there and drink beer and look at bikinis....


Now, seriously, if you have to use a screwdriver to rotate the flywheel with the engine torn down to that point, you have a serious problem.

We need to stop here and focus, and stop wasting all of this time. That flywheel should spin like a top. I think you might need to step back, and buy a decent engine.....

 

[Mikel1]

He is right. With it already that difficult to turn even if we got it running, I have a feeling it will be short lived. Meaning internally something is going to give. I would address this problem first.

 

[ProTechCharlie]

I think I need to pack up my truck and come down there. I hope you are near the beach, I'll just sit there and drink beer and look at bikinis....


Now, seriously, if you have to use a screwdriver to rotate the flywheel with the engine torn down to that point, you have a serious problem.

We need to stop here and focus, and stop wasting all of this time. That flywheel should spin like a top. I think you might need to step back, and buy a decent engine.....

Well, the beaches here are full of blokes this time of year.
I took off the crank case cover, and the flywheel, and still could not move the shaft by hand. Just do not give up on me yet. I took a video of the interior of the engine, if that would help diagnose the problem. I may have put the piston facing the wrong way (I did not think it mattered which side faced you and which did not. I think the reason for not being able to turn it is the other side of the engine (the hole) or the cam. But I was able to spin the cam by hand before. And, that shaft has that horizontal play I was talking about.

 

[ProTechCharlie]

He is right. With it already that difficult to turn even if we got it running, I have a feeling it will be short lived. Meaning internally something is going to give. I would address this problem first.

I think it is the permanent side of the engine bore hole that is making it difficult, the connecting rod, or the cam. And I'm not completely sure on how to diagnose any three of those.

 

[Mikel1]

This is from manualThis is after connecting rod is torqued to 100inch lbs.) Rotate crankshaft at least two complete revolutions to be sure connecting rod and crankshaft turn freely and connecting rod does not interfere with cylinder or cam gear.
NOTE:If connecting rod interferes with cylinder or cam gear, rod is installed incorrectly or cam gear is out of time. Verify correct timing and connecting rod installation before proceeding.

 

[ProTechCharlie]

This is from manualThis is after connecting rod is torqued to 100inch lbs.) Rotate crankshaft at least two complete revolutions to be sure connecting rod and crankshaft turn freely and connecting rod does not interfere with cylinder or cam gear.
NOTE:If connecting rod interferes with cylinder or cam gear, rod is installed incorrectly or cam gear is out of time. Verify correct timing and connecting rod installation before proceeding.

Okay, I checked it out, it is the new piston rings. They are fairly new, so they are making it slightly difficult for the shaft to turn easily. It is no longer a problem. I did not put everything back together, but the cam and the tappets and the shaft gear are all next to it, ready to be installed. Here is a little story though. When I removed the crank case cover, the crank and cam were aligned, I did some moving of the shaft and block, and it popped out of time. The dots were not lined up. Odd huh? Anyways, I have to work tommorow, but if we can get a list of stuff I need to pick up, I will stop and get it for the valves. I can just go ahead and grind them both, then you guys can give me info on the springs and such. Will I have to have to accsess the internals of the engine again to reseat them? Or just get to the PCV box? Also, judging by the video, how did my cylinder walls look? Okay for compression?

-Thanks, Charlie.