If everything is good now then you can close it back up. Yes you are going to need to access the valve chamber if for no other reason than checking the clearances. So where exactly are we at on the valves?
Briggs and Stratton 5 HP Wont Start
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ProTechCharlie
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Yes. Still somewhat difficult to turn, but since that is the cause, it is fine. Well, you and fish said that you both think each one of my valves are not sitting. So, why not do both? I can get the compressor from autozone, grinding compound, and the lapper suction cup. I do think this is all I need? And instructions. How and what to set them at. I didn't know if you answered the question, I'm not trying to be pushy, so if I sound that way, it's not intended. But, you do think my cylinder wall checks out? It's just worries me a bit that if the valve job doesn't do it, it's that.
-Thanks, Charlie.
Okay I thought maybe you had confirmed that one of them wasn't seating fully. Easy way to tell is to put on tdc compression stroke and pour some water on top of valve & seat. If it can't hold water then it can't hold compression.
Intake- .005-.007
Exhaust- .009-.011
There are plenty of videos on youtube for doing valves.
From what I can tell cylinder looks okay but you can judge it better than we can.
Intake- .005-.007
Exhaust- .009-.011
There are plenty of videos on youtube for doing valves.
From what I can tell cylinder looks okay but you can judge it better than we can.
ProTechCharlie
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No, I can't tell honestly. It's the angle and stuff. Now, my instructions are to open the breather, then go ahead and take my compressor and compress the springs and get them detached from the rod? Do I just leave the valves seated and compress the spring and pull it out? I know it has a lock hole where one side is skinnier than the other, allowing a lock. Then after they are out, I grind them until when? There really aren't any pits on either of them. Maybe one or two at most.
I would check the valve clearances first. This will let you know where to start at on lapping or grinding to do. You are trying to take off as little material to get the job done while keeping valve clearance intact.
Compress the valve spring & retainer then get the retainer off the valve stem. Then pull valve straight up and pull spring & retainer out of valve chamber.
Compress the valve spring & retainer then get the retainer off the valve stem. Then pull valve straight up and pull spring & retainer out of valve chamber.
ProTechCharlie
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It's such a pain to install them. If the valves don't work, and honing is required, I'm calling in the dogs and putting out the fire on this one.
I do have one question for you both. I have another engine with much carbon on the top of the flathead, piston, and around the valves. Since we are talking about cylinder condition, should I clean the carbon out? And if so, how do I clean it without pieces of carbon getting between the piston and the cylinder wall?
I will do the valves tomorrow. Hopefully, I will test the compression and it will give me sixty or above.
-Thanks, Charlie.
ProTechCharlie
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Well, they gave me an overhead compressor to rent, I did not notice until it was too late, but I do get my money back on it, so I have that. I checked the valve and tappet clearance and, they both check fine. I put water over the valves and it seems to not leak at all. So, maybe it is not the valves, but I will go tonight and see if I can get to those valves with a pair of needle nose pliers. I could possibly do the valve job tonight and see what the compression stands at. I got the lapping tool and the compound, waiting to be used. Let me know what you think.
-Thanks, Charlie.
Fish
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No, your needing to use a screwdriver to rotate the crank/piston, that is likely "THE" problem, as all is not well in your FrankenBriggs world!!!!
It has absolutely nothing to do with the valves at all. It might if the head was still on with the plug in.
You have a major problem. If you were to get it to start, it might last 40 seconds!!!!
With the head off, the engine not attached to anything, that flywheel should spin easily/rapidly....If you have to employ the help of a screwdriver, you got
trouble. Did you install oversize rings? Rod?
It has absolutely nothing to do with the valves at all. It might if the head was still on with the plug in.
You have a major problem. If you were to get it to start, it might last 40 seconds!!!!
With the head off, the engine not attached to anything, that flywheel should spin easily/rapidly....If you have to employ the help of a screwdriver, you got
trouble. Did you install oversize rings? Rod?
ProTechCharlie
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Lol, brother, calm down. I said I got it fixed! It turned with my hand now. I think it was the play that I had in the shaft. It's no longer a problem. No, I did not need a new rod, and I used genuine OEM rings :399067. I pretty much only use genuine parts.