Briggs and Stratton 5 HP Wont Start

[Fish]

Sorry, describe again how you got it fixed? What was the problem?

 

[ProTechCharlie]

Sorry, describe again how you got it fixed? What was the problem?

I just dissembled everything down to the bore, then put everything together again. It turns easier now. I just really think it was the play I had, so I put it in the middle (connecting rod) and tightened it down. At this point it's okay now. But I ran another compression test and I still have low compression thirty maxed out. Like I said, nothing leaked through the valves, that water sat there for an hour.

 

[ProTechCharlie]

I should have picked up on it a long time ago. this whole forum is about 1/2 nuts....... They troll the net asking for advice..... After jumping through
30 hoops. Well, I feel used....

Dude, if I were a troll, why would I make a video with the engine? Better yet, you can look me up in Facebook, then I can take a photo of me holding the engine next to my face with a time stamp and a three legged dog in the frame. I mean, if you don't want to help anymore, that's fine. But if it'll make you feel better, search me on Facebook, then hit me with a PM saying which profile you found and I will confirm it, then I'll take a photo of me with the engine. You can look me up, I'm on several other forums, for BMW's, (which I work for and on) Toyota (which I drive) and other small engines (which I use and play with). I have no real reason just to tell two people for a few days. It'd be a waste of my time, which I hate doing. I seriously have no reason to even be a troll. I just want this pos engine to run.

 

[Mikel1]

Well, they gave me an overhead compressor to rent, I did not notice until it was too late, but I do get my money back on it, so I have that. I checked the valve and tappet clearance and, they both check fine. I put water over the valves and it seems to not leak at all. So, maybe it is not the valves, but I will go tonight and see if I can get to those valves with a pair of needle nose pliers. I could possibly do the valve job tonight and see what the compression stands at. I got the lapping tool and the compound, waiting to be used. Let me know what you think.

-Thanks, Charlie.

I'm leaning towards not a valve problem with the info now given. I did think the intake valve wasn't fully seating from what I could tell on the video.
You may be able to get the valve spring retainer to unlock without the valve tool, I've done it before on this model. Your going to need the valve compressor to put them back in.
Did you check the ring end gaps like Fish suggested earlier?

 

[ProTechCharlie]

I'm leaning towards not a valve problem with the info now given. I did think the intake valve wasn't fully seating from what I could tell on the video.
You may be able to get the valve spring retainer to unlock without the valve tool, I've done it before on this model. Your going to need the valve compressor to put them back in.
Did you check the ring end gaps like Fish suggested earlier?

No sir. I did take an old ring that came off of the engine, and I placed both pieces on top of the piston (it had broke when I took it off) and got about 10' maximum. That was about a quarter inch down in the cylinder from when I was checking clearance. I'm pretty sure that if honing is required, I'm just going to scrap it. We were taught that in school, but since it was automobiles, over a small block, it's different. If we had something like this at the dealership, we would just get a new engine at that point, honing doesn't ensure long life. I actually ran a compression test after I got the engine put back together and got only 25-27 PSI. Oh well. :frown:

 

[ExTrucker]

Anyone else have any other suggestions? I've pretty much covered every possibility I could find.

Sounds like a time for a new engine. I would rebuild it, HONE the cylinder, make sure to put NEW rings on and close it up and watch the baby run like new money. BUT, since our school says NO to HONING (makes no sense whatsofrigginever) then I would go get a new engine and be done with the headache.

 

[Gearjammer]

I was using the drill (15/16) to start my engine. However, once I got it started, the extension on the end of the socket spun out of orbit and broke the crankshaft just past the starter clutch. My issue before is that the pull start would and does not want to start the engine. The drill however, be it gas or ESF would make it start. My 5HP uses the magnet on the flywheel to make a spark, not the points and condenser. Now, I have finally got everything back together, new crankshaft, piston rings, and crank case gasket, but my socket does not fit the new starter clutch. It barely catches, then slips. I think once before the crankshaft broke I sprayed ESF in the intake and the pull start was able to crank it. I cant remember that well honestly. But, now with everything installed, the pull start gets to a point where it wants to start the engine, but it just wont. Like, I hear the compression, but it just doesnt seem like the engine will make a full revolution on its own. :thumbdown::frown: Any suggestions? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

-Thanks, charlie

Vice grip the plug to a flat metal surface. Leave the plug wire attached to the plug, and pull the starter. If you get a strong blue spark, your problem is gas. If not, try sandpapering the rust off the flywheel and resetting the gap between the flywheel and the pickup. You might try a hotter plug or check the plug wire. Cleaning the plug might help, too. Spark, gas, and air in the right proportions and any small engine should start and run. Good luck, Friend. Gearjammer