Briggs and Stratton 5 HP Wont Start

[ProTechCharlie]

If spark is weak then that could possibly be your problem. I have my doubts from looking at your video, though.
Actually compression can be low and still have enough to pull in fuel. I have the 130202 on a tiller and at 30psi compression it sent a flame(backfire) out of the carb.

I don't mean to question you, but you think my two videos show I have enough spark to start the ignition and have combustion? I just don't know, I mean, I would think that even the smallest spark would set off those fluids. Especially ESF or gas. I put carb cleaner in the carb, and I tried to start it, and it got really close, to the point where it was almost spinning by itself, and that is what makes me think of weak spark, but at night, and when I hold onto it, it seems to be enough? Maybe it just looks like enough? Your thoughts? I also apologize if I sounded offensive towards you in any of my posts, that wasn't the intention.

I'll try to stick a compression tester on it tomorrow. See if they have one I can use at an auto parts store. But what would cause my leak? I've went either checked or replaced (replaced most) of the common compression failure causes. Your thoughts on this as well?

-Thanks, Charlie.

 

[Mikel1]

On the first video it appeared weak but was hard to tell. The second video looked alot better. Doesn't take much of a spark to pop off with esf. I personally like this tester, hands free and a large gap for spark to jump Small Engine Spark Tester "The Best Made" | eBay

Since you have verified timing and fuel then there's only spark and compression left that are not 100% certain. A compression test can rule out low compression which will leave you with one remaining piece of the puzzle left. You may be able to borrow one if you have a good mechanic friend.
Yeah it was a little offensive for a simple question, so I accept your apology. Just remember the members here are trying to help you out.:smile:

 

[Fish]

There is a lot of vague area here, as we have no model numbers of the original engine, as well as the donor engines, so there may be a lot of "unknowns"..

On his videos, the sound of him pulling the rope with the plug out, sounds oddly "squishy". Don't know if it is from a flooded block, or what.
And using cranks/cams from engines with close displacements, well, who knows?

The knarly looking coil, well that just caught my eye, and may or may not be noteworthy, but we are plinking around with a puzzle with not a lot of firm
data to really grab onto.

 

[ProTechCharlie]

On the first video it appeared weak but was hard to tell. The second video looked alot better. Doesn't take much of a spark to pop off with esf. I personally like this tester, hands free and a large gap for spark to jump Small Engine Spark Tester "The Best Made" | eBay

Since you have verified timing and fuel then there's only spark and compression left that are not 100% certain. A compression test can rule out low compression which will leave you with one remaining piece of the puzzle left. You may be able to borrow one if you have a good mechanic friend.
Yeah it was a little offensive for a simple question, so I accept your apology. Just remember the members here are trying to help you out.:smile:

I know the first one looked weak, but the second looked fine. And, by no means did trying to start it either time give me any positive results. I am not sure how that is possible. I agree that even the smallest spark will set of ESF. Which, we can see the spark, so how come it isnt allowing combustion?

Thank you again. I will try to see if I can grab a tester from autozone (compression tester) for rent. But, I am not really sure how I would have lost compression, at all. I made sure to cover my tracks with that, but the test will give the truth. Again, sorry to sound offensive, I just wanted to know why you thought that (to get more ideas of what others think). Thank you for helping! Ill be sure to get back to you tommrow if I can test it.

-Thanks, Charlie.

 

[ProTechCharlie]

There is a lot of vague area here, as we have no model numbers of the original engine, as well as the donor engines, so there may be a lot of "unknowns"..

On his videos, the sound of him pulling the rope with the plug out, sounds oddly "squishy". Don't know if it is from a flooded block, or what.
And using cranks/cams from engines with close displacements, well, who knows?

The knarly looking coil, well that just caught my eye, and may or may not be noteworthy, but we are plinking around with a puzzle with not a lot of firm
data to really grab onto.

The only close model number is 130202. I know that particular number uses points to start the engine, which is where I am confused. So, truly, I have no idea what my model is. Thanks for trying though. Kind of cheeses me off that the previous owner put the wrong housing on there. This engine is for sure not I/C.

The new crank, as for that, I found that after an extensive search (two or three days) and it is used. I could not find one with the end where the clutch goes, most would just stop after the threads for the clutch, with no extension. Others, would have the wrong PTO. I even received one for a 3.5 HP or a 4 HP by mistake, but I returned it. The crank I installed came off a 130202 as advertised. The cam is original and did not seem to have lobe wear (made sure to spin it a few times before putting the gear case back on.

As for the coil, and this goes for mike, if the compression test gives me good results, then I shall buy a new coil. I think it would be cheaper to rent a compression tester and get my money back, rather than buying a spark tester, then finding out it is compression and not being able to get my money back. Do you guys know if a tester that I can use at Autozone will fit in my plug hole?

Again, thanks for all the help, and if I ever step over the line and sound offensive, that is not the intention in the least.

-Thanks, Charlie.

 

[Fish]

The only close model number is 130202. I know that particular number uses points to start the engine, which is where I am confused. So, truly, I have no idea what my model is. Thanks for trying though. Kind of cheeses me off that the previous owner put the wrong housing on there. This engine is for sure not I/C.

The new crank, as for that, I found that after an extensive search (two or three days) and it is used. I could not find one with the end where the clutch goes, most would just stop after the threads for the clutch, with no extension. Others, would have the wrong PTO. I even received one for a 3.5 HP or a 4 HP by mistake, but I returned it. The crank I installed came off a 130202 as advertised. The cam is original and did not seem to have lobe wear (made sure to spin it a few times before putting the gear case back on.

As for the coil, and this goes for mike, if the compression test gives me good results, then I shall buy a new coil. I think it would be cheaper to rent a compression tester and get my money back, rather than buying a spark tester, then finding out it is compression and not being able to get my money back. Do you guys know if a tester that I can use at Autozone will fit in my plug hole?

Again, thanks for all the help, and if I ever step over the line and sound offensive, that is not the intention in the least.

-Thanks, Charlie.

No, we are just trying to help you get it going. That is why I ask so many questions, because I would hate for you to waste any more money on this, as there is a whole lot of "unknown" territory...
I come across as an arse, because that has always been my internet style.. Half of the regulars here hate me, and they should......

But I always have enjoyed spending a lot of time trying to help folks out, and I try. I do not post, unless I am sure I am right.

 

[ProTechCharlie]

No, we are just trying to help you get it going. That is why I ask so many questions, because I would hate for you to waste any more money on this, as there is a whole lot of "unknown" territory...
I come across as an arse, because that has always been my internet style.. Half of the regulars here hate me, and they should......

But I always have enjoyed spending a lot of time trying to help folks out, and I try. I do not post, unless I am sure I am right.

And, I thank you for that. So we have it to two possibilities, the coil or compression. I'm slightly eager and anxious to see what the results are of the compression test. I just screw it in the hole and give the pull a few tugs right? Hopefully it'll give me sixty or above. I also have the feeling that whatever happened to this engine happened sometime after it was purchased originally. Very little carbon in the head tells me that it was cleaned a lot, or used very little.

-Thanks, Charlie.

 

[Mikel1]

I would take the spark plug with you so you can make sure it's the right size. Just twist the tester in, move to WOT and pull about five or six times.
P.S.- I don't hate Fish.

 

[ProTechCharlie]

Okay, here is what I have found after doing some digging after I got off work. My engine is either one of two finalized model numbers. 130201-1610-01 or, 130201-1783-01. Now, I know it is one of these due to the fact that I looked through most of the models for 130201-to the middle of 130202. I narrowed it down because the two final 130201 models (the two listed here) DO NOT use points and condenser any longer. The model before 1610 does, and the first 130202 model uses points and condenser again. Why would they go back to points on a newer model? Also, the gas tank on mine was different than in both of those diagrams. If I go before those models, things start to change, if I go beyond them, things start to change. So I think I have narrowed it down. I havent been able to get a tester as of right this minute, but I was looking at new coils just in case, and according to the site, they only have them for 6 HP engines. Why is this? I will do some more searching too. Also, my engine had that ugly cylinder housing for the filter, and many models even most of the 130202 have it. I will still do some more searching to see if I can be 100% positive.

-Thanks, Charlie.

 

[Fish]

Naw, the 5 h.p. horizontal coils will all work fine, It would be great if we were neighbors, you could bring the damn thing by with a case of beer, and we could
figure it out soon enough. But over these forums, all of us are handicapped, which is why I may ask a lot of questions, as I cannot really see what you see,
and all I can do is ask questions, and trust that the info I get back is correct too.

So I have no idea if we have it down to anything yet.