I guess it's possible I overfilled slighty? (used 3 Qt including filter fill) I did use the correct Scag brand filter however it looks different than the original one I took off. Looking down at the holes on the filter there are crimps sort of hexagonally around the filter housing. The new one I just bought to replace the one I just put on :frown: (also Scag brand same #) is round with no crimps? I wonder if they have different manufacturers making their filters? I will check the bypass valves for tightness. Thanks for the tip. Are you saying that you fill just below the metal tube initially to bleed, then fill to specs? Should I leave the tube out when bleeding? Maybe I'll try and bleed again without the tube in see if that solves the problem. Thanks appreciate the help. Don't want to mess up my "new to me" Scag.
No doubt that Scag and others have different filter companies, the important thing is that it is marked with the correct part number. Having been a marine mech years back, several of the companies that I worked for had learned the lesson that aftermarket filters are problematic and use only the specific manufacturers filters.
When I replace hydraulic filters, I fill the filter, install it, bring the oil level to the bottom of the tube and run the machine. I bring the oil level back up to the bottom of the tube and run and operate the machine as if I were mowing and recheck the oil level.
You can remove the tube and shine a flashlight into the reservoir to see if there are air bubbles, you will see some. During operation as the hydraulic oil warms up, its ability to release air bubbles improves.
I don't jack up the machine and run it unless I have replaced a pressure hose and/or a wheel motor.
Mad Mackie in CT