Best Oil To Use For Kawasaki

[GrumpyCat]

Whatever! I’ve provided the literature that Kohler and Kawasaki puts out pertaining to their oil. Kohler even states that the demand of small air cooled engines is different than that of automobile requirements. Today’s automobile oils are engineered to meet the current EPA CAFE standards geared towards increased fuel mileage.
You do as you like and I’ll do as I like.

Neither Kohler nor Kawasaki have published a specification of what they expect of an oil... other than the video on Kawasaki's site saying to look for a genuine API rating and how they also submit to JASO for real testing (a snub at Shell who self-certifies a JASO MA rating on certain varieties of Rotella-T).

The fun thing about API S-category (gasoline internal combustion) and JASO's motorcycle ratings, is how certain additives such as zinc are limited.

@MParr and everyone else have failed to document a requirement for zinc, all they present is F.U.D. (Fear Uncertainty and Doubt).

With an additive such as zinc one is specifying the means of the solution, not documenting a problem to be solved.

 

[slomo]

Supertech SAE 30w was or is rated at SG. Full of zinc and wonder no wear stuff. It's actually called off-highway oil.

 

[7394]

Kawasaki's site saying to look for a genuine API rating and how they also submit to JASO for real testing (a snub at Shell who self-certifies a JASO MA rating on certain varieties of Rotella-T).

Kawasaki Engine has Solid Lifters, so having Zinc is very beneficial to this. Their own brand K-Tech has zinc in it..
I think Kawasaki knows their engines pretty well.

 

[bertsmobile1]

you do not need zinc in a mower engine that has single valve springs that you an compress with your old fella
High zinc is needed for engines with double valve springs and high lift cams
I really wish idiots who know nothing about oils would stop crossing between NASCAR requirements and mower requirements
Mowers have only 1 scuffing surface where zinc would be an advantage and that is the cam followers but the pressure n a mower cam follower is barely enough to keep it in contact with the cam let alone squeeze out all of the oil

 

[kbowley]

How about simply following the manufacturers recommendation in the owner's manual? They bench test them under full load for thousands of hours with various oils. The engineers that designed the engine are far better versed in which viscosity and spec will provide the longest life. You can't go wrong with Mobil1 10w/30 high milage oil. Nearly all modern small engines recommend either 30W detergent and/or 10w30. I have not seen any consumption increase with 10w30 vs 30w. The small engine oils from the manufacturers are blended with higher zinc and detergents but the price is insane, and any good brand name synthetic will meet the specs mentioned in your manual. Amsoil makes a specific small engine oil. You can find it at Napa or order it. Here are the details.

 

[GrumpyCat]

Kawasaki Engine has Solid Lifters, so having Zinc is very beneficial to this. Their own brand K-Tech has zinc in it..
I think Kawasaki knows their engines pretty well.

Every motor oil has zinc in it.

Most every engine ever made has (by your definition) “solid” lifters even those with hydraulic lifters. The issue is whether the spring rate and lift of the cam and RPM drive pressures great enough to push through the oil film. This just does not happen in power equipment engines.

Most diesel engines I have seen come with roller lifters due to high valve spring rates and large lift. Well designed high performance gasoline engines too. Aftermarket kits available to hot rodders.

When parts press through the oil film zinc is the protectant of last resort. When this occurs the zinc is consumed. Poorly designed engines require high levels of zinc, else the designer has decided to use the oil as a crutch and require more frequent oil drain intervals to replenish the zinc.

Mobil-1 famously got in hot water with formerly loyal hot rod users of 15W-50 “red cap” Mobil-1. Red cap replaced with a 15W-50 that chemically resembled 5W-30, much lower zinc content. These users started experiencing severe camshaft lobe wear. High lift, high RPM, high spring rates, high pressures on the cam lobes. But only those without roller lifters.

I totally agree zinc reduces camshaft wear. I totally claim such designs are defective because it is unnecessary and avoidable. Most every Toyota ever made has pure solid lifters. My F-150 with 2.7EB has pure solid lifters. Neither has a “gimme more zinc” requirement.

And again, “Where is the documentation from Kawasaki as to their (supposed) zinc requirement? Something other than marketing propaganda. Technical document. Owners Manual, etc.” My Owners Manual simply states, “API Service Classification : SJ or higher class.” It doesn’t say, “high zinc content preferred” or anything like that.

Where are the excessively worn camshafts that insufficient zinc is to blame?

 

[Hammermechanicman]

I don't care what oil I use as long as it is better than the oil Scrub uses.

 

[MParr]

ZDDP: Zinc and phosphorus are more than anti-wear additives. They are also anti-oxidants.
Higher levels of zinc and phosphorus in engine oils can foul catalytic converters and diesel particulate filters. That’s the reason for reducing the zinc and phosphorus levels in oils for newer passenger cars and newer diesel powered vehicles and equipment.
We aren’t seeing a great number of air cooled motorcycles, ATVs, and lawnmowers with catalytic converters.
I will continue using engine oils with higher zinc and phosphorus levels in my air cooled engines.
For me, it makes more sense to keep one type of oil on hand for both my V-Twin Kohler and my Kawasaki Mule. A 10W40 4T motorcycle oil goes in both.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0301679X01000287

 

[7394]

I don't care what oil I use as long as it is better than the oil Scrub uses.

Yea same here..

 

[GrumpyCat]

ZDDP: Zinc and phosphorus are more than anti-wear additives. They are also anti-oxidants.
Higher levels of zinc and phosphorus in engine oils can foul catalytic converters and diesel particulate filters. That’s the reason for reducing the zinc and phosphorus levels in oils for newer passenger cars and newer diesel powered vehicles and equipment.

Zinc isn't limited by the EPA, it is phosphorous which is limited. Zinc only because they choose to use ZDDP in motor oil.

Most "automotive" motor oils have 700-800 PPM of ZDDP. 1500 PPM becomes acidic so even the "zinc rich" oils are limited to 1100-1200 PPM.

We aren’t seeing a great number of air cooled motorcycles, ATVs, and lawnmowers with catalytic converters.

You ain't looking. Air cooled engines are a dying breed.

2001 Honda GL1800 is one. My 2007 BMW F800S and 2016 Yamaha FJR1300. Catalytic converters and solid tappet lifters. Redline is 9000 RPM on the FJR. I only have 85,000 miles and valves are still in spec.

Use same oils in my 2009 Husaberg FE450 off-road racing dirtbike. It too has been through a dozen tires, half dozen chains, wheel bearings, air filters. But valves are still in the 0.006-0.007".

I will continue using engine oils with higher zinc and phosphorus levels in my air cooled engines.

How do you know the oil you are using really has higher ZDDP content?

Zinc/ZDDP is a consumable. It gets crushed then no longer works. Run a marginally designed engine 500 house on an oil drain and one will probably run out of ZDDP. 50 hours? Not likely.

Another point: It is the high pressure of high spring rates and high cam lift used in hot rod engines which drive the "need" for ZDDP. Power equipment engine valve springs are usually so weak we depress with thumbs to remove the retainer. Low lift. And 3600 RPM? Very low stress.