Best Grease for Honda Rear Wheel Drive Components?

[OldToroGuy]

I put the mower all back together and like bertsmobile suggested, I just used CRC White Lithium Grease, judiciously, and let it set before I assembled the pieces. I also replaced the belt while I had it all apart. So I'm happy with the result and now know that I should plan on doing this to the rear wheels either this Fall or next Spring.

I started it up and let it run for several minutes because I wanted to change the oil while I had it (I should have done it first!). While it was running I was surprised at how fast the mower can actually go but when I stopped it and pulled it backwards there is some resistance in rear wheels, they don’t easily roll backwards, is that normal for Honda mowers?

I'm used to a Toro Super Recycler and it isn't as hard to pull back as this Honda HRR216K9.

 

[Rivets]

Try adjusting the drive control. This may help. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/69131/Honda-Hrr216vxa.html?page=36

 

[OldToroGuy]

Thanks for the hint. I tried this adjustment yesterday but I didn't have much time to fuss with it and I was trying to fully understand the adjustment. I had to put it away and move on to something else I had to do.

 

[OldToroGuy]

Rivets, thanks for the link. I’ve read and re-read that adjustment and don’t feel a big difference after adjusting but it seems to be a little better. I also looked at some YouTube videos as well but I still think the adjustment is a little subjective.

 

[OldToroGuy]

I just don't understand why, after cleaning up both rear wheel drive mechanisms, (washers, axle, wheels, keys, pinion gear, etc.), adding a small amount of lubricant, why the mower still has a fair amount of resistance when you pull the mower backwards?! It doesn't make sense. Even after watching some YouTube videos, I don't see anything that someone else hasn't done, except one guy put a small bracket in place to keep the transmission from flexing, that I haven't done improve it. My wife pulled the mower backwards today and gave it a "no-go" on how it moved to the rear.

 

[Rivets]

Sorry I can’t be of much more help. Honda has always been harder to pull back than a Toro. Just something you will have to learn to live with.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I just don't understand why, after cleaning up both rear wheel drive mechanisms, (washers, axle, wheels, keys, pinion gear, etc.), adding a small amount of lubricant, why the mower still has a fair amount of resistance when you pull the mower backwards?! It doesn't make sense. Even after watching some YouTube videos, I don't see anything that someone else hasn't done, except one guy put a small bracket in place to keep the transmission from flexing, that I haven't done improve it. My wife pulled the mower backwards today and gave it a "no-go" on how it moved to the rear.

All ratchet type mechanism have some resistance
Generally the Hondas are a bit stiffer to pull back than other mowers but it is not all that much
What we get down here may not be the same as what you get in the USA
Usually when I find one that is really hard after cleaning & lubing the drive i is because the engagement is out of adjustment just enough to put a slight load on the transmission but not enough to drive it forward
I test this by seeing if it is harder to pull back engine on than it is engine off .

 

[OldToroGuy]

I meant to post this previously to close out this post of how hard it was to pull the mower backwards. I tried several adjustments and didn’t feel I got anywhere and then solicited some thoughts from a cousin with lots of mechanical experience. Still no luck.

I think I mentioned I had replaced the belt while I had the rear wheels and axle disassembled. The plastic shroud underneath I thought was a pain to take off and put back on so I wasn’t going to remove it again. That said, after not being happy with pulling the mower backwards I decided to pull it all apart again. (I’m getting pretty good at it now!) So, when I removed the shroud, I got to looking at the belt and found I had routed it wrong around the belt guide on the transmission. It made sense when I put the belt on but looking at when I turned the crank thought it didn’t look right. So, I put it on correctly and then re-adjusted the Smart Drive cable and it helped some. It is better pulling backwards than it was and will live with some resistance.

The other comment is to Rivets who didn’t recommend I use any grease on the drive components. I didn’t want to use any lubricant but there was such resistance I figured I’d try some. When I tore the mower back apart and re-routed the belt, I couldn’t believe how much sand and grit the pinions and axle had accumulated and I had only been running it on asphalt! So, I cleaned all of the axle components before putting it back together. Using grease was against everything in my dna but I was willing to try anything before I found the belt problem. Rivet was right, grease wasn't a good idea!

 

[civic]

Check this thread out about not pulling backwards

Can't Pull Mower Backwards - HRR216VLA to bearing conversion

Edit: 2 Year update 10/18/2021 - the needle bearings worked great for 2 years. I disassembled for re-greasing and found that they HAVE caused some minor damage and mushrooming to the drive shaft especially on the left side where the transmission sits and pulls against the shaft to tension the...

www.lawnmowerforum.com

 

[sgkent]

The right rear drive wheel pinion, bushing, key, and spring were all rusted up and frozen. I pulled both rear wheels apart and cleaned up all of the parts now I'm wondering what is the best grease to use in the rear wheel parts. Wheel bearing grease, regular moly type grease that you grease the various grease fittings on large tractors,......?

coming back to this thread as I was searching for answers this morning. The Toro manual states:

"Coat the axle, key, and spring with #2 molybendum
disulfide grease or anti-seize compound before
installing the pinion (Fig. 087)."

Fig 087