Bar and chain selection

[Hammermechanicman]

One final comment...

PT sit down and do you research...Otherwords you got some self training to do to educate yourself on bars and chains. It not something you can do overnight either it will take time absorb the info. But you probably have a few cobwebs of the mind to clear out to make room for the info too. There is times here that I got to fight my own cobwebs to retrieve things I got stored away from 20+ yrs ago.

The Oregon catalog is a good source of info; although it is limited too as you must combine your resources. I had to learn about these on the fly myself as I repaired chainsaws but now it is easy to get the right setup quickly. Of the three catalogs I got here Oregon, Rotary, and Stens; the Oregon catalog is the best when it comes to chainsaw bars and chains.

As the old saying "Knowledge is Power" is true as long as you got good knowledge and not a lot misinformation. And the internet is full of misinformation. Got to stick with the trusted sources and take everything else with a grain of salt.

Good info from star. Don't know if you use a chainsaw but if you do here is a link to a series of vids about proper and safe use of chainsaws. May help keep you off the Darwin awards. I work with lots of farmers clearing dead trees out of fence rows and creek banks. Most of them scare the sh!t out of me! No PPE and just doing stupid stuff.
Once you get the bar and chain stuff figured out it is pretty easy. If you plan to sharpen chains that is another whole thing to learn.

 

[LMPPLUS]

I haven't seen this saw yet.

My brother said he's got a Jonered CS58 (Note. He wasn't at his saw when he gave me the model number. But said he thinks that's the right one).

He was either sold the wrong blade or bar (or both). None the less, he says it won't cut at all. So I'm trying to figure out how to get the right bar & chain for it, as if he just handed me the saw with no bar or chain. Start from scratch, sort of speak.

He says the numbers on the original bar aren't visible.

 

[PTmowerMech]

One final comment...

PT sit down and do you research...Otherwords you got some self training to do to educate yourself on bars and chains. It not something you can do overnight either it will take time absorb the info. But you probably have a few cobwebs of the mind to clear out to make room for the info too. There is times here that I got to fight my own cobwebs to retrieve things I got stored away from 20+ yrs ago.

The Oregon catalog is a good source of info; although it is limited too as you must combine your resources. I had to learn about these on the fly myself as I repaired chainsaws but now it is easy to get the right setup quickly. Of the three catalogs I got here Oregon, Rotary, and Stens; the Oregon catalog is the best when it comes to chainsaw bars and chains.

As the old saying "Knowledge is Power" is true as long as you got good knowledge and not a lot misinformation. And the internet is full of misinformation. Got to stick with the trusted sources and take everything else with a grain of salt.

I don't want to sound like I'm arguing with anyone, just trying to figure this bar & chain thing out. Every legit place I've looked at, says the same thing. Match the DL, gauge & pitch. That's what I did. Since this bar has been working great, up until it finally wore out (it's the original one). If it was wrong, as Bert suggested, seems it would've been worn out in the first year. The numbers you gave me, didn't jive with the numbers on the bar. 058 is what you posted, when the bar says 050.
Ok, so let's say the bar that came with it from the store was the wrong one. I'm not sure how wrong it could be if it's worked so well for so long. Seems the sprocket on either end would've given out by now.

 

[PTmowerMech]

@LMPPLUS, this post (the OP you quoted) was what I was posting prior to actually seeing it the saw. Once he got here, we worked out some details on a few things. Like the bar. I thought he'd bought a new bar & chain. When in fact it was only the chain he bought. It was fairly new, but was cutting crooked.
The numbers on the bar weren't visible. I had to use my magnifying glass to see them. (even with my spectacles on). But my phones camera made it easy to take a pic.
Getting the saw in hand, I was able to figure out why it was cutting at an angle The bar was worn out, and the new chains tip on one side, had some damage to the point. (full chisel).

The rest has been trying to figure out why using the DL, gauge and pitch isn't the only info needed when ordering a new bar.

 

[MarineBob]

I didn't read all the comments so my apologies if this has been noted. Is the chain on backwards? Many moons ago I bought a clearance McCholough (sp??) saw that was on display in a shop. Took it home and the sucker would not cut. Scratched my head for a long while then realized the chain was on backwards.......duh... I guess who ever took it out of the box in the shop just put the chain on never thinking about the orientation.

 

[PTmowerMech]

I didn't read all the comments so my apologies if this has been noted. Is the chain on backwards? Many moons ago I bought a clearance McCholough (sp??) saw that was on display in a shop. Took it home and the sucker would not cut. Scratched my head for a long while then realized the chain was on backwards.......duh... I guess who ever took it out of the box in the shop just put the chain on never thinking about the orientation.

Yeah, it's on right. Has always been on right. My brother has been cutting wood for a long time. Back in the day, my dad owned a tree service business down in Dallas. He worked with my dad a lot. Prior to that, dad used to cut and haul pulp wood. He and my other brother had to work with him. So he's not a novice when it comes to chainsaws. Just doesn't know the technical details like some of the techs here.
I was young at the time and lived with mom when the pulp wood and the tree service was going on.

 

[StarTech]

But they leave one important thing out and that is the bar mount. The gauge is important to a point otherwords it must make the bar gauge. And what appears to have happen over time is someone replaced the Jonsered bar with Tsumura bar. The Tsumura PN 48FV84 in your image is just the replaceable bar tip which is actually a .050 / .058 tip.


And the Tsumura Bar mount that matches the K095 is their A012. Which only came in a .058 gauge. Its PN is 381FV4.

Reference Material
Tsumura Catalog

And there appears a typo in the catalog as the 20" 3/8" .058" should be PN (T)381FV4 in the A012 (K095) mount and not 381PV4


And be careful as some site imaging a carving bar and not the standard shape bar.

 

[bertsmobile1]

An 058 chain will run fine in an 050 bar, it just puts more load on the saw because there is not the right clearance
In a short time the wider chain will wear the sides on the bar groove

 

[StarTech]

An 058 chain will run fine in an 050 bar, it just puts more load on the saw because there is not the right clearance
In a short time the wider chain will wear the sides on the bar groove

I have to disagree as it can overheat the bar grooves damaging the bar plus it can also damage the drive spur, rim drive, or the clutch drum. Always best to match up bar and chain. Here get cases like this where the customer has completely burned up the clutch drums from doing this. .008 difference don't sounds like a lot but it is.

Just recently had a customer with a new BNC correctly matched to the saw that return because the chain quit moving. He forget that the BNC needs oil. I barely got the chain un welded from the bar groove.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

PT
"The rest has been trying to figure out why using the DL, gauge and pitch isn't the only info needed when ordering a new bar."

The saw determines what "mount" the bar needs to be. Here are 2 bars that are same gauge but fit in different saws.

One fits Stihl and the other Poulan. Both saws may take the same chain like .043--.325-50DL but the bars are not interchangeable. When looking for a bar for a saw you first have to determine the mount the saw takes and there may be different mounts in the same brand. The other thing is the pitch of the rim sprocket or spur gear. If you don't know the history of a saw it may have been changed. My MS170 came with a .043-.325 bar. It now sports a .050-3/8 bar and drive sprocket. Ordering an OEM bar and chain won't work because I changed the clutch drum to a 3/8 spur gear.