B&S Quantum XE 5.5HP

djg618

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I got the sump bolts off, but am having a little separating the two halves. Any ideas?

Typing before I got your reply.
 

djg618

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I once had a similar problem with an old Wheel Horse, I used various grades of flapper wheels and time, but it did a great job, so great that I kept on going until I was 0.010 over. I think that old guy is still going strong.
Are you talking about honing the cylinder wall before removing the piston? Or after?
 

djg618

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OK, switching gears again, I got the piston out of the ORIGINAL log splitter engine. The piston is deeply scored so it's junk. The cylinder wall likewise is scored enough so a fingernail catches on it. I think that's how someone described it. Anyway, too deep, I believe, to hone it down. I'll probably keep the cylinder to practice on honing techniques before I try them out on my chainsaw that I'll likely have to do.

IMG_0674.jpgIMG_0672.jpg

My question now is, for educational purposes, what might have caused this? I've always thought the lack of oil due to cold weather, but some disagree with that theory. Any others?
The rings on the side of the piston damage are nearly flush with the pistons as you would expect. The pistons are locked in place and do not rotate freely around the piston. This may be an effect of the failure??
 

Scrubcadet10

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i'm thinking You may have had a type of seizure that can happen in 2 strokes (chainsaws etc)... being so cold out, the piston and cylinder are slightly smaller, if you start it up and run it at full throttle from the get go, the piston expands faster than the cylinder wall from heating up and Voila.
 

djg618

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Thanks, and you agree the cylinder is too far gone to try and hone it smooth?

I did a quick search and think I could get a new piston/rings for around $50. Just a thought.
 

Scrubcadet10

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You'd probably have to have it bored over, which would end up costing more than a new engine.
 
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