B&S Quantum XE 5.5HP

djg618

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I always checked the oil level before I used it. So I'm guessing the cold temps didn't allow good movement of oil because it was too thick??
 

bertsmobile1

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Right now all we know is the bore is scored and to be that looks like either a temperature seizure or broken ring.
Anything else is just guesswork till that piston comes out and we have a good look at it
 

djg618

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As I've said, this is the first engine I've ever worked on. I've got some time tomorrow, so I'll check into it. So I guess it's pretty obvious what has to come off next to get to the piston?
 

bertsmobile1

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Engine out of mower
Tipped upside down & sump removed
I find it easier to pop the flywheel off while the engine is still in the mower
Pulleys / blades etc all got to come off.
 

djg618

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The engine has been off the LOG SPLITTER for a long time. I can see how to take the sump off, but any tricks to getting the fly wheel off? I hit the nut with WD-40 and tried to use one of the fins to pry against. Popped one of the PLASTIC fins off. I can JB Weld it back on, so I'm not too concerned. Any ideas?

P.S. Disregard, I got it off.
 
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Scrubcadet10

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you'll need a 3 jaw puller, or screw the flywheel nut back on where the top is just flush with the end of the crank/threads,
get a prybar under the flywheel and pry up on the flywheel, and hit the nut dead center with a hammer may take a whack or 3 but this will knock it up off the taper.
 

djg618

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I just got it off. Getting the nut off was the problem. Large channel locks on shaft.
 

djg618

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I'm to this point now. I see the carb, muffler and magnet all have to come off. But I don't see any bolts holding the cylinder to the rest of the motor housing. Is it all built into one? The cylinder and the part with the shaft?IMG_0642.jpg
 

Joed756

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I once had a similar problem with an old Wheel Horse, I used various grades of flapper wheels and time, but it did a great job, so great that I kept on going until I was 0.010 over. I think that old guy is still going strong.
 
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