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Any ideas on why a crank seal would be leaking after replacing twice
- Thread starter stang8689
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Export threadGot the three pics. Doesn't look bad, in fact the valve look good. Haven't got time to really put together a post on what to next. I'll try to post a procedure tomorrow. Just got home from another 12 hour day and my brains fried. Sorry.
First, I am assuming that the pics you sent are all from the right side. I see some evidence of a blown gasket, but really think that the valves should be able to go back in just the way they are. Bring the piston up to TDC level with the top of the block. I would scrap the top of the piston carefully with a putty knife, no gouges. After scraping clean the top of the piston. I use 0000 steel wool and carb cleaner, but can use any type of cleaner which will do the job. Also clean the area where the gasket was attached. After you have cleaned the piston, move it down to BDC and clean the inside of the cylinder. I start with a soft rag a light cleaning solvent (nothing harsh), just something to get it clean. Many people like to use a lubricant like WD-40 which will clean and protect. After cleaning dry with a soft rag and apply a thin coat of motor oil to prevent corrosion while it is standing open.
As for the head the only thing I would do there is clean the gasket surfaces, and leave the valves alone. If you want to tackle the other side go for it. Any time you let it sit cover with rags. Now would also be a good time to order the gaskets you will need. Your supplier may have to order some not in stock. I suggest head gaskets, valve cover gaskets (if they are used, some use an RTV sealant), intake and exhaust gaskets, any you have removed. Also, clean the head bolts. Any other questions at this point?
As for the head the only thing I would do there is clean the gasket surfaces, and leave the valves alone. If you want to tackle the other side go for it. Any time you let it sit cover with rags. Now would also be a good time to order the gaskets you will need. Your supplier may have to order some not in stock. I suggest head gaskets, valve cover gaskets (if they are used, some use an RTV sealant), intake and exhaust gaskets, any you have removed. Also, clean the head bolts. Any other questions at this point?
Thank you so much for the write up, I understand everything you said very similar to changing heads on a car, just a few simple questions. Should i just scrape and scuff the gasket surface or would it be ok to use a small round abrasive pad on an air die grinder like I do when changing heads on a car or could that be too much.? I would use a fine grit of course, and when I'm cleaning the pistons would it be ok to use a wire brush wheel with my drill? Its not real rough and shouldn't remove any medal. As for the valve cover and exhaust gaskets, I recently put new ones on and no rtv was required, they came off very nice and still look brand new, both sides, should I still buy new ones or could I reuse them? Should I clean the top of the valves with anything? On last thing, I would clean the head bolts on a wire wheel on my bench grinder, now when I'm torquing them is there any sequences? On my car I had to do 3 different settings and in a certain order, thanks agian
Scrape but not scuff the gasket surfaces. No abrasive pads, want then smooth as possible. No wire brush on the piston heads, I only use hand wire brush if I have hard carbon. I have always taught students that the slow patient way does a better job. The valves look so good in the pics that unless you see carbon build up I would leave them alone. Wire wheel on head bolts fine, we want them clean and dry. Want to install them dry. Can reuse gaskets if you feel they are good. Should have torque specs and sequence in the manual I asked you to download. Let me know if you can't find.
I remember seeing the torque specs but just what they were to be torqued too, one more question the head gaskets could cause lower compression? you don't believe the piston rings could be bad?
In the on line manual go to section 13, page 5 for sequence and torque value. Also has valve adjustment sequence. I don't think the rings are bad, but try this after cleaning everything. Bring the piston to TDC and try to move them left to right and top to bottom. There should be some play but not a lot. Sorry this test comes with experience and feel, you will have to make the decision. Right now I'm going by looks only.
I ordered the gaskets so as soon as I get them I will be putting them on so I'll either be posting results or asking more questions, hope to have by Saturday but if not then next week, thanks