I guess I have to rephrase my question. Does the seal leak between the seal and the crank or between the seal and the block. If it is the seal and block, you could try try putting thread lock between the seal and block when you install. Are you protecting the seal in anyway when you are installing. It is very easy to nick a new seal when installing. Try these steps. 1. Clean & dry block and crank fully. Use a Q-tip to check for nicks. 2. Apply lube to the area on the crank where the seal rests after installed. 3. Wrap protection over crank from the end to the block. You can use a piece of freezer bag cut and wrapped two layers. 4. Lubricate the inside of the new seal. 5. Slide new seal over the crank protection until it contacts the block. 6. Carefully tap the seal in place until it rests about 1/32" below the block face. Make sure you keep it square. 7. Pull out the protective material. 8. Slide the pulley on the shaft and make sure that the seal is in far enough that the pulley will not touch. I am assuming that you are installing this with the engine out of the unit. If you are leaving the engine in the unit, let it sit for at least one hour before attempting to run. This will allowing the seal to seat. Also, run the engine at low RPM's until the unit is warm, again to help the seal seat properly. Good Luck
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Any ideas on why a crank seal would be leaking after replacing twice
- Thread starter stang8689
- Start date
More options
Export threadThanks for all the advice I will be even more careful and take those steps this time,I'm not real sure where it is leaking from, the seal looked to be more blown out this time. I am starting to think it has something to do with crankcase pressure. How would I go about checking and fixing that problem. Also I do this with the engine out and have plenty of clearance to the engine pulley.
If you have not pulled the engine yet, try this. Start the engine and run at 3/4 throttle. Pull the dip stick and rest it on top of the tube. If it bounces up and down, you definitely are building up pressure in the crankcase. Solve this problem before putting new seal or it will blow again.
I just went out and did what you said and once I pulled the dip stick oil started misting out the top. I would say I have too much crankcase pressure. Next problem is I dont know anything about crankcase pressure or what causes too much, but if you could give me ideas I'm sure I can fix it. Thanks for all your help
I just went out and did what you said and once I pulled the dip stick oil started misting out the top. I would say I have too much crankcase pressure. Next problem is I dont know anything about crankcase pressure or what causes too much, but if you could give me ideas I'm sure I can fix it. Thanks for all your help
read my post #12 above
Most common cause lately is a blown head gasket on one of you cylinders. Do you have access to a compression gauge or better yet a cylinder leakage tester? Doing a test on each cylinder will narrow down our possibilities. Also, I would like to know how you would rate yourself 1-10 on your mechanical ability. Sorry to ask, but this will tell me how to proceed.
I am very mechanical at least an 8 I'd say, I know more about cars then mowers, this is my first mower I ever worked on but I rebuilt the engine in my Mustang. I should be able to handle the head gasket job, I do have access to a compression gauge, not with me now but maybe tomorrow. The only vent tube I know is the one to the carb and I just rebuilt the carb and cleaned it even though it looked very clean. My biggest question is when replacing the head gaskets do I need to remove the crankcase and how to I adjust the rockers/ push rods to be in timing? Would I just need the engine gasket kit?
Don't know if I should help a Ford man, I liked my Vette better. Let's take it slow and we should get this done. Wish you would have said cylinder leakage tester instead of compression, but the first thing I would like you to do is take a compression test on each side. This will tell us which side is bad. Don't start teardown till you tell me results, I am not 100% sure it is the gasket yet. Replacing head gaskets will be the easiest part of this job. If you adjusted valves on the pony you should be able to adjust a Briggs. I am going to see if I can find a manual online to help us. Don't buy any gaskets yet, I think we can piece meal this one. Have to warn you, if we do pull a head we should think about a valve job if needed. Make that decision later. Sorry in advance when I revert to my teaching mode, at times I assume people have to be slowly lead through a problem, just the way I work.
My dad is bringing his compression gauge and leak down tester over tomorrow. As for the gaskets I recently replaced the valve covers and exhaust and I believe the carb kit came with new intake gaskets. The leak down test should help the most. I really appreciate all your help and I will post results tomorrow and take your advice from there. I like Vetts too I just painted a 89 for a friend of my dads. Engine has 194 hours if that helps