I had converted the in/ib to ft/ib no problem just a pos torque wrench I found someone with a better one. I actually removed the bolt very easily, good thing i had it nice and clean
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Any ideas on why a crank seal would be leaking after replacing twice
- Thread starter stang8689
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Export threadI had converted the in/ib to ft/ib no problem just a pos torque wrench I found someone with a better one. I actually removed the bolt very easily, good thing i had it nice and clean
Ah, good.:wink: I just wanted to point that out, especially since I'd done it to myself.:biggrin:
Well I got everything back together today, bad news is I did a compression check before I started it and I was getting only 30-60 and it wasn't holding the pressure. I did get it started and it sounded great but when I pulled the dipstick oil was still misting out the top. I took my time on everything and followed all the instructions, any idea what I could of done wrong? I really can't afford to put much more money into this I may just have to sell it and downgrade. Thanks for all your help either way, I'm open to any ideas of things to check or maybe it has to run a while?
Let's not get down yet. I'm a little more positive than you are right now. I don't think you did anything wrong. You did a compression test when the cylinders were dry from the cleaning. You said it sounded great, let's do another test. Put a little motor oil into each cylinder, spin the engine over a couple of times with the plugs out and take another compression test. I think we will find the compression go up. As you run the engine the motor not only lubricates, but also seals between the cylinder walls and the rings. Your original post was for leakage around the seal. Do you see any evidence of leakage around the seal? If not that is a good sign. A little misting is not bad. Don't run over 3/4 throttle for the first 30 minutes and take a third compression test. I know that this sounds redundant, but if it sounds great we may just have to allow it time to settle in. Remember I told you we had to take it real slow. May be a dumb question, but when was the last oil change?
I will try putting some oil in the cylinders and see what happens, the seal wouldn't start leaking until after I cut the lawn and it ran for a while. I was going to put the deck on and try cutting the lawn and see if it leaked the next day, I did put assembly lube on the walls. As for the oil change I drained the oil before removing the engine and put fresh oil in, before that the carb went bad so I did a filter and oil change the cut before pulling it this time. The only question I had while putting the engine back together was after adjusting the valves it said to torque to 60 in ib but I couldn't torque the nut, I watched a few videos and everyone just tightened the nut with the wrench, could I have over tightened the jam nut.? I tightened it tight but didn't over due it, I also double and triple checked the clearances after several engine rotations.
Good about fresh oil, wasn't sure. Assembly lube protects during reassembly and startup, but burns away or dissolves very fast. Don't think you overtightened the valve nuts, as long as the clearances are correct. I would put the deck on and give it a workout. Don't run at full throttle for the first 30 minutes and when your done cutting take the third compression test. Stay positive.