Add Oil Cooler to Raptor SD - Kawasaki Fr691v

[BEYTILL]

So when the engine vibrations rub a hole in the filter and trashes your engine........ Hope your yard is perfectly flat.

Must admit, cool mod you did. Thing is you want your oil good and hot. Gets rid of moisture for one. Day temps 95+, night around 65F. Condensation in the oil sump.

LMFAO! Trim the fender. It’s 1/4 of a 3” radius and soft crappy plastic.

 

[BEYTILL]

This adapter is solid and heavy! It will definitely draw heat out of the oil……putting it on right now….and yes, I’m trimming my fender. It will make changing the filter easier.

 

[sgkent]

take a look at some of the sandwich oil filter adapters or VW TYpe 4 Oil Filter Relocation adapter. They can be added instead of a filter and then lines routed thru a cooler and filter. The advantage of a larger filter is less restriction because there is more surface area.

 

[slomo]

I always let the engine idle a while in the shade or make a couple slow idle laps around the yard to help cool the engine and oil off before shutting it down.

Hope your engine is a full pressure lube and water cooled.

If yours is an oil slinger and air cooled, not recommended to idle this type down. Briggs states run at max revs all the time for max durability and longevity.

 

[slomo]

I give it a minute or so to allow the temperature to stabilize a bit, letting some of the heat disperse across the engine. I’ve never been a fan of working something hard and just shutting it down immediately, mainly from my days of working on diesels with turbos that like to cook the oil in the turbo bearings.

Most of these are not Diesels. Most are normal air cooled engines that are made to run at max revs ALL the time. 2 stroke trimmers and chain saws run at full zip from a dead start. Mower engines the same.

Best running mowers I've seen and non oil burners have been the ones that when you start them they are at full revs. No throttle adjustments. Plug runs cleaner and such.

Your logic doesn't fit outdoor power equipment. Now I know gas is 5 bucks a gallon now. Maybe you are idling down to save money LOL? I didn't vote for that "person".

 

[slomo]

it takes time for the water passing through the oil cooler to lower the oil temps as well as for the egt’s to drop.

Water extracts heat 7 times faster than air. More time, maybe but not anything to lose sleep over. EGT's?? Really? on normally aspirated mower engines? That is what you are worried about? You must have a Power Stroke Diesel on yours.

 

[slomo]

Plastic fender is not going to rub a hole in a steel oil filter??
.

Not on my mower it's not. You know how thin these filter cases are. Likely, not really. Possible yes. Worth risking a multi thousand dollar engine no.

 

[1slow5point0h]

Feel better now?

 

[clubairth]

I guess it depend on where you live as I regularly mow in 95-100 degree's all summer long?

I have always thought the cheap plastic oil drain hose was just junk. To my surprise I found out (What took me so long to find this?) that Kawasaki does have a nice 16" rubber hose with a nice brass cap that replaces the useless factory setup on my Raptor SD 54".

Kawasaki 510440902. About $30-$35 and there are many other ones too if you don't want the Kawasaki version.



Just ordered one!
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[Skippydiesel]

That is the wrong thing to do. An air cooled engine is cooled by air flowing across the engine. The more air flow, the better the cooling. Run at wide open until shutdown or parking. If you want to sit in the shade for a bit, shut it down.

It is good practice for all engines should be warmed up & cooled down.

Warm up before asking the engine to do hard work - I usually run at high idle for a few minutes before working an air cooled engine (longer for a liquid cooled) engine. This gets all those separate bits of metal to expand to close to their working limit and brings the oil up to temperature for best circulation.

Cool down. This is not so much cooling, as stabilising/bringing the engine temperature (again all those bits of metal & the oil) down to a lower/non load steady temperature. Again I run the engine at high idle. High idle gives good air & oil flow for a nice consistent all over temperature drop. For a mower, I usually do this, while using compressed air to remove all the chaff from around the mower, paying special attention to transmission/engine cooling fins.

I do this for my 2/ as well.

Except in an emergency NEVER intentionally shut down an engine operating at full rpm.